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For the DIY-er Custom battery cables without ever leaving the garage .

All a matter of semantics. To each his own I say. I register my truck at the Motor Vehicle Administration, not the Engine Vehicle Administration. I used to have a motorcycle, not an enginecycle. Just sayin'

Just wanted to give a public thank you to Lincoln at A-Z Tractors for sending me some quality used parts for my 1994 314h and 1991 520h! Parts list... 520h- Paring brake lever, hood latch, air cleaner sensor and rear 1-1/8" hub 314h- Fuel tank, 2x headlights, steering collar and steering wheel All parts arrived with quick shipping as well as packed very well and all were quality products! Thanks a bunch sir! Will be coming to you for future purchases as well. God Bless you and yours!

4hrs down, 4hrs back, makes for a long day. But was well worth it. Was driving to SE Ohio today (can't get there from here) to pick up an 857 from the fellow I bought my 1276 from 2 weeks ago. Low and behold, last night [a currently unidentified early 60's model, possibly a 754 best guess right now] tractor popped up on CL, exactly 30 mins from where I was going! Made quick arrangements to meet the owner at his job (he had to work today so he took it with him), to look it over. Needless to say it went right on the trailer! Looks to be pretty much all there, metal is in nice shape and steering is tight. Tranny shifts and the brake works. No deck. Has a 1961 hood installed, and a blown 7hp Tecumseh in it, but it came with a running K161T which I figure I can probably convert over if I can find the parts. This one will be long term project after I finish my 1276 that is in pieces right now! The 857 is a good running tractor, pretty much all intact except for steering wheel. Have the original cushion which a friend of mine who does marine upholstery can use to duplicate it. Runs good, cuts good, looks good, but deck is a little noisey, have to look into that. It also came with a snow plow and rear brackets. Paid $450 for the 857 with deck and plow. Paid $280 for the 754 (?) All in all, a good day!

Picked this up at a military vehicle show (one of my other hobbies). Never been used still has the inspected by #12 in it and the original cardboard outer box with a date on the bottom of 1982. The army stock sticker shows October 1983. This is the unbelievable part, a quick internet search revealed that Ridgid still makes the same set and it looks identical ...35 years later. You can get it at Home Depot and other places for $450.00

This morning I had this view: That's the Commando I restored for our grandson in 2005. It's been in the family for over 35 years starting out as my Mom's. When she could no longer drive it I took it down to Florida and did the restore. Here it is when it was fresh in the Florida backyard. I then hauled it back up to Indiana. No, I'm not taking it back from him. It's needs some work to get it mowing again. It seems like every time I would come up for a visit it needed something but time, tools parts, etc. kept me from really doing it right. Now that I'm back home I'm taking it to my place and going over it completely. I'm thinking the mower deck spindles are going to be the biggest thing. If I remember right they were a bit of an oddball on the 5-0620 deck. I'm hoping I can rebuild them. I wanted to access the situation before the Mentone show so if I need anything......... Right now it's just soaking in PB Blaster with hopes that I'll get things apart with minimal breakage.

Clean the area up and watch it. Most likely all you will need are axle seals. Remove the hubs dig out the old seals. Check for any up down front back movement in the axle . If there is none put in new seals. (1/8th" in and out movement is OK)

If that bothers you so much then hang in there, lots of people don't care and we tend to know that a Kohler is a Kohler even if they call it a motor!

I've used those same ends and soldered, comes out really nice. In my case I couldn't find red 4g at the time so I used red heat shrink to cover the solder joint and to identify positive

To be blunt it bothers me to hear someone ask and refer to an engine as a motor. What is a motor? My opinion here a motor is electrical and runs on either AC or DC. An engine is mechanical and runs on fuel. Electric motor. Gas, propane, or diesel engine. Electric motor An electric motor is an electrical machine that converts electrical energy into mechanical energy. The reverse of this would be the conversion of mechanical energy into electrical energy and is done by an electric generator. Engine | Definition of Engine by Merriam-Webster https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/engine Define engine: a machine that changes energy (such as heat from burning fuel) into mechanical motion

Just got my E-Maxx converted to brushless . Running a Hobbywing Max 8 150 amp ESC and 2200 KV motor . Dual Venom LiPo's for 10,800 mAh at 4S She rips !

Well the video didn't work so well... To hard to steer, hold shifter, hold beer and hold phone.... Dropped phone ran it over... Lost control ran over a 2 foot by 2 foot chimney brick, thought I was going to flip it. Luckily the front pivots so far it stayed on all fours. I did get a pic of running over some firewood though

That is the purpose of any forum. To discuss, to learn, to obtain information, to share information and experiences. I welcome the discussion on this topic I started. It doesn't really bother me that much I just started the thread to see where it would go and to be able to share others opinions and views. I would be the last person to expect a majority of people to have the same views I have. I like to stir the pot so to speak sometimes to get others to come out of the woods and finally take a breath and communicate their views instead of just reading what someone else thinks.

I picked up an early 90s Wheel Horse 246H yesterday. It has a 38 inch deck on it. Looking for as much info as possible on it. Thanks.

What would this be valued at. It's hydro has 8hp kohler runs great and the mower deck is quiet. The guy said he'd throw in a hydraulic lift kit for $50. It's been repainted.

Well, your Dad is closer to it than I but I sure see $400 from here. Hydro kit is certainly worth more than $50.

Ok so I went to the ropshop and put in the pn I had but nothing came up with the same number. So I went back up to mastiffmans link and went to it I was looking it over then said well they cant read your mind if you want it you have to buy it ! So I started typing in my address and at the top of the e-bay store post was the store's name ,.. see more at our e-bay store( The Rop Shop). I bought her up ! $36.00 shipping included. Once again thank you all so much I wish / hope some day I can help you all with something as much as you have helped me. Now I an=m going to go back and read Doc's post a bunch of times!..Thanks Jeff

To me that looks like it would work fine. The only thing I was thinking about the bottom tap vs a taper tap is that it would remove the taper until the very end allowing the nipple to run in further before it snugged up.

Starting in 1971 the model numbers got a 6th digit following the 5-digit model number. After seeing these in lists realized the significance of the 6th digit. x-xxxx-6 minus 5 = 1 = 1971 x-xxxx-7 minus 5 = 2 = 1972 x-xxxx-8 minus 5 = 3 = 1973 x-xxxx-9 minus 5 = 4 = 1974 The attachment model numbers were the same. Recently the model 1-6041 came up and Toro has this listed as a 1970 model. Believe it should be 1969 as 19 1969 tractor model numbers use 4 for the 4th digit and 1 model made in Belgium dosen't. Another observation is no other model number for the 1969 Raider 10 has shown up. In 1970 all 23 models use a 5 for the 4th digit. Back to the significance of the 5. In 1969 the 4th digit 4 minus 5 could be 9 = 1969 In 1970 the 4th digit 5 minus 5 could be 0 = 1970 Interesting.

Garry

Me thinks you are right!...but I bet a lot of folks are going to say: Note Regal Red color...

Got a few pieces down to bare steel tonight. Also had to put a new set screw in the pulley, it was missing. Old original cable was in great shape.

I had a similar condition with my 312-8 a few years ago, figured it was running out of gas,pulled the gas cap and heard a momentary sucking sound. There was plenty of gas left, but the vent in the cap wasn't working so as the gas was pumped out a vacuum was being created that the fuel pump couldn't overcome. I bought a new fuel cap and haven't had any more problems.

New to the red square site and the proud owner of a Raider 10. I have read some conflicting information on the internet but I thinks it's a 1969 or 70. Can anyone verify for me? The model# is 1 -6041 and serial # 571354. Engine is a Tecumseh hh100. Look forward to the new hobby and using this site. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!!

I was thinking the same thing. The footrests and drive belt guard are not the 701 type. The hood is a 701 type so maybe. But either way it's a nice score...both of em! Mike....

Just purchased a 1987 312-8 I'm thinkin in pretty good shape--got a lil rattlin when clutch is out--kinda like an old Harley panhead I had--should I be concened--I'm thinkin not--this is a real informative site--bein kinda cyber dumb, I'm gonna do my best to learn what I can. Would like to confirm year--pix of model #'s included. 12 hp Kohler Magnum runs great. Any advice/help appreciated

Nice truck you have there! I used to be in big time, racing stadium trucks, & monster trucks off road every week in the summer. In the winter I raced pan cars on carpet oval one night a week and touring cars on carpet road coarse on another day during the week. I still have my vintage T-Maxx that I take out once n a while. It was a pretty trick truck in it's day, I stuck way too much cash into building it.

Why off course save the beer. Just went out for round two. No phone, pounded the beer and ran over some trees and stumps and piles.... And everything else in the way

I know I don't NEED it but for $50 I'd do it. And plus I'd use it plowing snow and the garden.

By all means, safeguard the brew!!

Jeff, the "cam actuator" is the arm that sticks out the back. When you remove or install it, yes, you do have to tilt it to get it out. The flat side of the cam actuator on the pump rides on a rotating part inside the engine so when you put it back in you have to keep the actuator close to the block (so the rotating part inside the engine hits the flat side. BTW, the pump that Mastiffman cited is exactly the one I bought for my K241. I had an old pump on a K301 engine I picked up last fall. It is an original metal pump and yes, it does not look line the newer plastic ones. WRT electric pumps, they are a great solution, but at the end of the day is will cost 2X the old mechanical pumps. Between the pump, a fuse, and a relay and finding a place to mount it so that it does not get in the way of something, it is not a trivial task. (electric pumps are pusher pumps just like in your car and they have to be located close to the gas tank). I have toyed with the idea for my C141 which is hard to start if I leave it for a few weeks and do not keep the tank as least half full. Since it only gets about 15 hrs of use a year, it is hard to justify all the work to install an electric pump

Dropped the phone but managed to hold on to the beer! Guess you have your priorities.

I'm not one of the gurus you're looking for but I'm thinking I would run a bottom tap in to allow you to thread the nipple a little further and I think it would be OK. I had to tap the K-91 on my 400 and I finished up with a bottom tap and I got a real good bite on the nipple.

Inside of the hood done. The belt cover I did last fall Primed this stuff yesterday, paint today. Love it when paint goes on like a mirror. 5 coats split apart evenly

Engine or Motor ? ...I think it's a fair question. But Please, lets keep comments and answers on track and positive. Thanks, Terry

Calm down everyone. They're only words.

You have put a lot of thought into this! Thanks for all your help with Wheel Horse information.

@6bg6ga I totally agree.......I work at JASPER ENGINES & TRANSMISSIONS...We rebuild internal combustion ENGINES. We also own a subsidiary called JASPER ELECTRIC MOTORS, and they rebuild ELECTRIC MOTORS!

My original 754

Its a simple thread designed to promote conversation and exchange of ideas. Well, a Kohler is almost an engine.

Not sure which model D-160 that you have, but if it takes the Part #103084 I have one for sale if you need one. As Gary stated the bearing on the front is adjustable, so is the bearing in the middle. Be sure to loosen this middle bearing every time you adjust the tension. Failing to do so may cause the P.T.O. shaft to be in a bind. After the tension is set on the front then tighten the mid bearing.

The 417 8 is one of my favorites and my top twin Wheelhorse. You have to love the electric lift! I will say that finding good points for them is difficult!

Garry

Check this site out for engine parts http://www.psep.biz/store/kohler_rebuild_kits.htm The engine looks like a 12hp, just scroll down to K301 for prices on complete rebuild kits for the engine. Most parts are fairly easy to get for the rest of the tractor. Parts for the hydro drive can be a little more difficult but can be found.

You need to to look at it with the idea that the only thing free in this world is bad advice. To think that we can get something for nothing is what we all want to so despertly believe, but we are lying to ourselves. When I restored antique cars and motorcycles, I dealt with camshafts that were not hardened properly and parts that were not sized correctly. To have to deal with an engine were the camshaft lobes turned to s--t in a few thousand miles, in an engine that I had thousands of dollars tied up in is a lesson that I will never forget. And then there are the parts that were simply machined the wrong size and would not fit. And, don't tell me it's the oil, or I didn't break it in properly, because I paid to have it hardness tested. It flunked a hardness test with flying colors. Do you even know the process used to harden a camshaft? You never dealt with automatic transmission aftermarket parts made backwards. And, I doubt you have personally experienced ebay manipulating feedback to keep sales up for high volume sellers selling questionable parts? I look at it as a job that I do not want to do twice. The bad part of this whole deal is that for a few bucks more, we could have aftermarket parts as good or better than OEM. But, the greed based sellers just don't give a rip, because they realize 1 cent is all it takes to loose a sale in America. You answer your own question when you question if I am able to determine the alloy type. Well, the odds are that the Kohler piston has the right alloy, and that we do not have a clue what the aftermarket piston alloy is. Also, regarding the weight of the aftermarket piston and connecting rod, weight is important due to the counterweight on the crankshaft and engine balance. The ideal situation for me me would be to have the cheap s--t for the tight wads, and for $10-50 more, the better parts that were put through some sort of quality control for people like me. Parts that were as good as OEM or better, and when I put a micrometer on them, they measured what the book says they should.

Today, I ordered a genuine Kohler piston, rings, and rod. I just do not believe that the aftermarket parts are up to the same quality level as the genuine Kohler. That being said, the aftermarket parts will no doubt function. But, how long will they last in a working tractor, how much oil will it burn, and how much extra noise will it make? I may do another thread comparing the differences in weight of each component, and size, Kohler vs. aftermarket. To create a YouTube review video of aftermarket parts based on looks and the type of wrapping paper is basically worthless in my opinion.

Don't forget the "partstree.com" tractor model and serial #s or Kohler engine model/serial #s should get you parts/ numbers you're looking for, another thing that could be an issue is the bronze screen/filter on the tank shut off bung could be getting clogged up after all those years especially if you have ever run ethanol fuel, Jeff.

If the gas in you tank was low, the slope may have caused some air to be sucked into your fuel line. I got a lot of air into my line one time, and had to re-prime the line and the filter to get the pump to pull the fuel up. Jim

I was down in South Bend Ind. today finishing a job at Notre Dame. On the way home, just around the corner from the university, I spotted Heaven on earth...! Had to stop and take some pics!!!