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Starting my 57 rj 35 resto. Will post as I go along. Gonna do a gas monkey garage time schedule to try to have it done in 3 weeks in time for mentone 😂. Will finish full disassembly tommarow morning

I was looking around for some pictures of the D250 counterpart and came across these videos. This one is different - I've never seen one one run off the rear pto like this one with the 3 point used to raise and lower it. This looks like a club - Maybe someone can translate. http://gutbrod-schrauber.de/gutbrod treffen-2/gutbrod treffen 2016.html

Might as well post the entire collection. Available at Amazon or your local flea market! AND THE ONE THAT STARTED IT ALL!

I picked up an early 90s Wheel Horse 246H yesterday. It has a 38 inch deck on it. Looking for as much info as possible on it. Thanks.

Just purchased a 1987 312-8 I'm thinkin in pretty good shape--got a lil rattlin when clutch is out--kinda like an old Harley panhead I had--should I be concened--I'm thinkin not--this is a real informative site--bein kinda cyber dumb, I'm gonna do my best to learn what I can. Would like to confirm year--pix of model #'s included. 12 hp Kohler Magnum runs great. Any advice/help appreciated

The look that lady is giving you is priceless!

I picked this nice running little 603 up a few weeks ago from Fun Engineer. I added the back rest and some old wheel weight I had laying around. Had it out putting around and thought I would take a couple pics to post. I will probably blast the whole machine down piece by piece and give her a new coat some day. I have had just about every, sought after, model from one time to another, but this is my first 603. Glad I picked her up.

Really it is, deer and turkey especially, rabbits and ground hogs all roam the hills and of course the dang moles ... Then there's the 10+ acres of wooded land back in WV that I'll inherit, Jeff.

I was waiting for that pic Richard..... the second one is better tho ... looks to be a couple of big bad Bobs ther, Zeek and others! I sure do wish the BS was on my calendar!

The 417 8 is one of my favorites and my top twin Wheelhorse. You have to love the electric lift! I will say that finding good points for them is difficult!

I have every confidence in you. This will be great to follow. Good luck. Glenn

Takes most of us three weeks to decide where to start!

ok thank you Bob will head out the garage and clean those bolts up.

Pictures of the tube in an 8 speed. Look to me like the tube is sort of necessary or the cable will be rubbing on the shifter

The C-141 has a cradle mounted engine. The engine is grounded to the cradle through the bolts, and the cradle is grounded through a wire to the frame. The battery grounds to the frame. Make sure all grounds are clean and tight.

The lady said " Watch out I got a nut and his dirty looking friends sitting next to me , you got your gun I hope "

This is the rough draft.

If the gas in you tank was low, the slope may have caused some air to be sucked into your fuel line. I got a lot of air into my line one time, and had to re-prime the line and the filter to get the pump to pull the fuel up. Jim

A belt cross-section that seats really well and deep in the pulleys, combined with the new, grippy belt compound will grab like no tomorrow. Add in some great engine torque, and it's pretty easy to get a "surprise" launch. Definitely have to let the clutch out slow and gentle; you'll want to intentionally slip the belt a little to ease into the "bite" from the pulleys. Seat position has some to do with it, too. Harder to control the take-up with the pedal if your leg is fairly straight at the engagement point. Shift forward slightly to have more bend at the knee to control it. I'm short, and learned that lesson from driving various tractors and manual transmission vehicles over the years. (The harshest teacher was an old Ford pickup with a three-speed column shift and heavy-duty, fully manual clutch -- no hydraulic actuator, just straight manual linkage. If you didn't control the clutch take-up firmly and carefully, it could kick the pedal back and slam your knee into the steering wheel rim faster than you could say "Ouch!") I still love manual transmissions, but my 520 hydro has me spoiled now...

I like the way she is hanging on to hubby like ...save me from this freak! Priceless! Wasn't there a caption this on that pic?!?!?

This is the third horse purchased

Slopes like that will kill a splash lube engine in short order . Kohler limits the K-series singles to 25* and in my opinion 20* is nearly too much . I run mine just a tad overfilled on the stick due to a ditch line and haven't had an issue so far but prefer to do that with a pressurized 22hp Briggs on a green thing I have inherited . The rest of the property is too rough and the heavier old Horse handles that much better without beating up what's left of my spine , which isn't much anymore . On the slopes pictured previously , that would take some serious wheel weights to prevent wheel slip and a good open mole hole could also tip over a tractor easily - you need the lowest center of gravity possible for stuff like that , up and down or across the slope . Even the smaller SCUT tractors will still have a fairly high center - that could result in a bad day . Sarge

Tgtack Sounds like you have it covered. You off to a good start. I have always thought that these tractors are like a book. They have a story to tell. I know it is corny. You just don`t what you are getting till you use them. Enjoy the project.

On the older models with the tilting seat pan.there is not much metal at the rear mounting points causing the holes to have cracks in them. I used light gauge angle iron to form a U-shape that then bolts to the top of the seat pan tower/tool box. On the modern 3,4,500 series, the same can be said of the tower area. Even though the seat pan does not ilt in that area, the seat itself has cantilevered mount areas and mine was so cracked it nearly dumped me off he tractor because it was hanging by a thread. Mowing side ditches puts a lot of stress on this type of seat and my 520 has a lot of hours. All the blame does not belong on tractor design Some of us old guys put high backed seats on the early models of tractor for comfort When dismounting the tractor, we tend to lean on the seat back. On the tilting seat pan models, it is possible to lean back with enough force to have the seat pan latch to let go and dump you off the tractor. Either add a second latch or drill and bolt the fenders and add bolts through the top of the footrest assembly. i landed right on my tailbone. on a gravel driveway. I was half way up a ramp loading the Raider10 and probably dropped 4 feet. I was off work for two days. Again another example of operator error because i moved the seat higher and to the rear. On the newer tractors, be aware that the transmission belt vibrates the idler pulley and it puts side load on the bushing. It is out of sight behind the belt guard. The transmission tunnel is made of thin metal and the bushing can cut through and rapidly create an egg shaped hole and even cut into the pulley swing arm. Change the bushing and keep oil on it. How long has it been since you removed and cleaned the top hat bearing on the PTO engage clutch? It is a wonderful piece of engineering, but a bit of cleaning and fresh oil on the needle bearings will not hurt a thing.

Done; who said we were done? We have a time honored tradition of picking on Mike!

If the bowl of the carburetor has gas in it, the engine should fire on the first try. However, it is a problem with the gas running back toward the tank via gravity, maybe a small check valve in the fuel line between the pump and the tank might help. The check valves in the pump itself are supposed to keep that from happening, but as you said, after 18 years they may be weak. https://www.mcmaster.com/#check-valves/=17kvrf9

Here are some photos of the c160 that I found for sale.

Congrats on your new 603 purchase. That looks to be in pretty nice original shape. How does the Techy run? They are a fun little engine when they run good! I completely restored this 603 a few yrs. back. It looked even worse in person. There were at least a dozen 3/8 holes in the hood I had to repair. Its one of the tractors I wish I still had...

I did find a local c160 hydro with 42" deck and a GT14 so I might have to check them out.

The next thing I'm going to do on 875 is see if I can get the Kohler K181 to fire up. Going to use the wiring diagram 953 nut shared and use a solenoid in the start system. A solenoid came with all the parts in the C-120 deal .

I took a couple of the drawings floating around here on RS, and made some 3D models. From that I made 2D drawings. I enjoy making the 3D models, the 2D drawings not so much, but from the 3D models , it isn't too bad to create the 2D drawings. The fun part is creating the 3D models though. These were pretty basic and simple. Below are the Front Blade Lift Link drawing, the second one is of the clevis hitch, and the third is the dual wheel adapter. Keep in mind, these are my drawings, but they're based on what was floating around here on RS for quite some time. Front Blade Lift Links.pdf Clevis Hitch.pdf Dual Wheel Adapter.pdf

Welcome to the forum. Toro has the 1-6041 listed as a 1970 model but it is a 1969 Garry

The tension pulley is old and probably worn. Two fixes for this. 1. get a new pulley or 2. move the foot rest (which the belt guard is attached to) out a bit so the guard is not as close to the pulley

Well don't have much time today but charged the battery over night. Emptied whatever gross stuff in the gas tank. Threw a gallon in and gave her a crank. After a little bit it actually fired and sounded good. Well now it's time for Baseball. Just wanted to pass the good news!!

Here is a start This may also apply Garry

awesome photos

I wish I did. It was very informative as I recall, but unfortunately I believe that particular thread has been lost forever. What happened was, this forum went through a major software conversion back in late 2011 or 2012 if I remember correctly. It went remarkably well considering everything that was going on at the time, thanks to Karl (nylyon) and the other moderators who made it all happen. But some threads were lost completely, and others weren't transferred exactly right (like this one -- you'll see strange or missing text or formatting, incorrect emoticons, that sort of thing). If anybody does have a copy of that thread, I'd love to see it. I think the title was actually something obvious like "Maintenance items not covered in the manual". In the meantime, the Search function is still our very good friend.

To answer your question about my pic, couple reasons I have the pedal with the pto. 1 cuz I wanted the tension on the belt and not try a bunch of belts. 2 it's nice for safety reasons. The pto and pedal have to be engaged. If you can find one it just slides on the shaft and hook a spring to the frame.

I'd agree with the last two.

Finally got her together! Everything went together well, adjusting the valves is a real bear on these. Grinding the valve a hair at a time is painstaking. So glad it's done. Need to run it in a little more then comes the transplant into the How you line up the timing marks. The mark on the crank gear is hidden by the ball bearing so they put one on the crank itself. Heavy duty Oregon starter. 4 1/2" long compared to 3 5/8 stock. Had to cut the tin to make it fit. Shes a runner!!

One thought here, using the Chinese junk works as long as your machinest measures the parts and sizes the bore correctly to match. If you are just slapping the piston in, you may not have a good fit. I would just get the .030 china piston, and have the cylinder bored to fit it perfect. Get rod checked and crank machined if needed. Run a great diesel SAE30 or SAE 15w40 every 25 hrs, not an hour more, and you will never have to rebuild again. The china alloy does hold up well.

Wonderful job on the restore Ken B!! Very nice indeed. The Tecky runs like a champ Hey AC Man how's it going? Thanks everyone. Not sure when or if I will restore her, but odds are good that I will

Looks fantastic as is, I would just enjoy it as is, a wonderful survivor.

Going to throw something into the mix here. This is an aftermarket piston, correct? Ever think of contacting the manufacturer and seeing IF they figured the thermal factor in. In other words SOME piston manufacturers some pistons don't come to their true diameter/size until warmed up. I for one would have no problem putting that engine together. I would start it and let it run and I don't think you would hear any piston slap BUT if you did hear something I would bet when the engine warmed up the noise would go away and the fit would be right. Some of the newer alloys some of the newer aftermarket pistons are designed for thermal expansion. If this bothers you have your machinist knurl the piston skirt and this will bring it back into spec. You can do this on a lathe. Just support the skirt.

I have not given up yet. I just ordered a 2 1/6 " tackometer from India that I'm hoping will work on my C160 . I will find one that works yet. I'll have to buy a handheld tackometer to verify that it works but if it does I'll post all I know.

Yes someone had cut out hood and added lights. The vote from everyone on "keep them, they make it look mean" . I like them too and they work!!

Yes ,that deck is not in bad shape at all.Can't wait to get that one going again. Yep those saw horses are definitely Heavy Duty. I have some BIG jobs setting on them while I weld. After work I mounted up the tires on the rims. The 875 will no longer be a static display on jack stands. Hope to mount wheels on the 875 tomorrow.

Very nice ..... as good or better than any general line show here in the US!!!!!

Picked up a nice D200 with a back hoe. Can't wait to go diggin' Turned the new horse out to play with its new big brother D250 and littler brother 656. Seems to fit in nice. Thanks to Stephen for the wheel weights on the D250 Thanks for letting me share guys!