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Starting my 57 rj 35 resto. Will post as I go along. Gonna do a gas monkey garage time schedule to try to have it done in 3 weeks in time for mentone 😂. Will finish full disassembly tommarow morning

I was looking around for some pictures of the D250 counterpart and came across these videos. This one is different - I've never seen one one run off the rear pto like this one with the 3 point used to raise and lower it. This looks like a club - Maybe someone can translate. http://gutbrod-schrauber.de/gutbrod treffen-2/gutbrod treffen 2016.html

Might as well post the entire collection. Available at Amazon or your local flea market! AND THE ONE THAT STARTED IT ALL!

I picked up an early 90s Wheel Horse 246H yesterday. It has a 38 inch deck on it. Looking for as much info as possible on it. Thanks.

Just purchased a 1987 312-8 I'm thinkin in pretty good shape--got a lil rattlin when clutch is out--kinda like an old Harley panhead I had--should I be concened--I'm thinkin not--this is a real informative site--bein kinda cyber dumb, I'm gonna do my best to learn what I can. Would like to confirm year--pix of model #'s included. 12 hp Kohler Magnum runs great. Any advice/help appreciated

The look that lady is giving you is priceless!

I picked this nice running little 603 up a few weeks ago from Fun Engineer. I added the back rest and some old wheel weight I had laying around. Had it out putting around and thought I would take a couple pics to post. I will probably blast the whole machine down piece by piece and give her a new coat some day. I have had just about every, sought after, model from one time to another, but this is my first 603. Glad I picked her up.

Really it is, deer and turkey especially, rabbits and ground hogs all roam the hills and of course the dang moles ... Then there's the 10+ acres of wooded land back in WV that I'll inherit, Jeff.

I was waiting for that pic Richard..... the second one is better tho ... looks to be a couple of big bad Bobs ther, Zeek and others! I sure do wish the BS was on my calendar!

The 417 8 is one of my favorites and my top twin Wheelhorse. You have to love the electric lift! I will say that finding good points for them is difficult!

I have every confidence in you. This will be great to follow. Good luck. Glenn

Takes most of us three weeks to decide where to start!

ok thank you Bob will head out the garage and clean those bolts up.

Pictures of the tube in an 8 speed. Look to me like the tube is sort of necessary or the cable will be rubbing on the shifter

The C-141 has a cradle mounted engine. The engine is grounded to the cradle through the bolts, and the cradle is grounded through a wire to the frame. The battery grounds to the frame. Make sure all grounds are clean and tight.

The lady said " Watch out I got a nut and his dirty looking friends sitting next to me , you got your gun I hope "

This is the rough draft.

If the gas in you tank was low, the slope may have caused some air to be sucked into your fuel line. I got a lot of air into my line one time, and had to re-prime the line and the filter to get the pump to pull the fuel up. Jim

A belt cross-section that seats really well and deep in the pulleys, combined with the new, grippy belt compound will grab like no tomorrow. Add in some great engine torque, and it's pretty easy to get a "surprise" launch. Definitely have to let the clutch out slow and gentle; you'll want to intentionally slip the belt a little to ease into the "bite" from the pulleys. Seat position has some to do with it, too. Harder to control the take-up with the pedal if your leg is fairly straight at the engagement point. Shift forward slightly to have more bend at the knee to control it. I'm short, and learned that lesson from driving various tractors and manual transmission vehicles over the years. (The harshest teacher was an old Ford pickup with a three-speed column shift and heavy-duty, fully manual clutch -- no hydraulic actuator, just straight manual linkage. If you didn't control the clutch take-up firmly and carefully, it could kick the pedal back and slam your knee into the steering wheel rim faster than you could say "Ouch!") I still love manual transmissions, but my 520 hydro has me spoiled now...

I like the way she is hanging on to hubby like ...save me from this freak! Priceless! Wasn't there a caption this on that pic?!?!?

This is the third horse purchased

Slopes like that will kill a splash lube engine in short order . Kohler limits the K-series singles to 25* and in my opinion 20* is nearly too much . I run mine just a tad overfilled on the stick due to a ditch line and haven't had an issue so far but prefer to do that with a pressurized 22hp Briggs on a green thing I have inherited . The rest of the property is too rough and the heavier old Horse handles that much better without beating up what's left of my spine , which isn't much anymore . On the slopes pictured previously , that would take some serious wheel weights to prevent wheel slip and a good open mole hole could also tip over a tractor easily - you need the lowest center of gravity possible for stuff like that , up and down or across the slope . Even the smaller SCUT tractors will still have a fairly high center - that could result in a bad day . Sarge

Tgtack Sounds like you have it covered. You off to a good start. I have always thought that these tractors are like a book. They have a story to tell. I know it is corny. You just don`t what you are getting till you use them. Enjoy the project.

On the older models with the tilting seat pan.there is not much metal at the rear mounting points causing the holes to have cracks in them. I used light gauge angle iron to form a U-shape that then bolts to the top of the seat pan tower/tool box. On the modern 3,4,500 series, the same can be said of the tower area. Even though the seat pan does not ilt in that area, the seat itself has cantilevered mount areas and mine was so cracked it nearly dumped me off he tractor because it was hanging by a thread. Mowing side ditches puts a lot of stress on this type of seat and my 520 has a lot of hours. All the blame does not belong on tractor design Some of us old guys put high backed seats on the early models of tractor for comfort When dismounting the tractor, we tend to lean on the seat back. On the tilting seat pan models, it is possible to lean back with enough force to have the seat pan latch to let go and dump you off the tractor. Either add a second latch or drill and bolt the fenders and add bolts through the top of the footrest assembly. i landed right on my tailbone. on a gravel driveway. I was half way up a ramp loading the Raider10 and probably dropped 4 feet. I was off work for two days. Again another example of operator error because i moved the seat higher and to the rear. On the newer tractors, be aware that the transmission belt vibrates the idler pulley and it puts side load on the bushing. It is out of sight behind the belt guard. The transmission tunnel is made of thin metal and the bushing can cut through and rapidly create an egg shaped hole and even cut into the pulley swing arm. Change the bushing and keep oil on it. How long has it been since you removed and cleaned the top hat bearing on the PTO engage clutch? It is a wonderful piece of engineering, but a bit of cleaning and fresh oil on the needle bearings will not hurt a thing.

Done; who said we were done? We have a time honored tradition of picking on Mike!

If the bowl of the carburetor has gas in it, the engine should fire on the first try. However, it is a problem with the gas running back toward the tank via gravity, maybe a small check valve in the fuel line between the pump and the tank might help. The check valves in the pump itself are supposed to keep that from happening, but as you said, after 18 years they may be weak. https://www.mcmaster.com/#check-valves/=17kvrf9

Here are some photos of the c160 that I found for sale.

Congrats on your new 603 purchase. That looks to be in pretty nice original shape. How does the Techy run? They are a fun little engine when they run good! I completely restored this 603 a few yrs. back. It looked even worse in person. There were at least a dozen 3/8 holes in the hood I had to repair. Its one of the tractors I wish I still had...

I did find a local c160 hydro with 42" deck and a GT14 so I might have to check them out.

The next thing I'm going to do on 875 is see if I can get the Kohler K181 to fire up. Going to use the wiring diagram 953 nut shared and use a solenoid in the start system. A solenoid came with all the parts in the C-120 deal .

Hey all.... I just wanted to follow up with you all. I installed the "very proud" ignition and it started fine. However, the electric PTO and the lights were not working. I spent an hour trying to figure it out and gave up. From what I can tell, I think the power leaving the ammeter is compromised. So instead of messing with it too much I just bought a couple single pole toggle switches and wired them up. Now I have a toggle switch for the electric PTO and the lights. Everything is back to working. I also installed the new mower deck drive belt as suggested. I had to relocate the adjustable pully wheel to get the proper tension on the belt. All and all it functioned great. I have another deck which has a couple rust holes in it. I'm going to strip it for back up parts. Any way here are some pics and a vid....

Thanx for the come backs guys. Not a bad wrench here, old Harley's. old farm tractors, etc. With the advice I get here I'm bettin me & the 312-8 are gonna have an outstanding mowing season & many more to follow. TM, love the patch--I was a Navy Combat Corpsman FMT attached to 3rd Marines -did 2 tours over to the Nam--64-66--Semper-Fi my brother. Not sure on the height index lever???

Without goals we often get sidetracked and don't make the destination. Good thread to follow as we know it should complete in near timeframe.

I finally got a chance to work on this between monsoons it came right apart right now this is the donor engine if the repairs to the original don't work it appears to be a compatible block to transplant the internals from 418 engine in should the jb weld repairs to the block not hold.I am close to the test run on that this weekend. If it holds up I will probably find a way to mothball the spare and keep it for future emergency Many thanks for the input and links to the manual. This is truly the best forum of any sort. Ernie

Thanks How are the parts, engine, bearings, and etc to get for these, I hate to buy it and not be able to get parts or pay a fortune. Maybe a 1257? For a 67 looks in nice shape.

Good morning all, I'm making plans to attend the "SHOW" so I'm posting a few things here that I could bring. My truck will likely be full on the trip back home so there won't be room to haul these items round-trip. Please PM me if you are interested or want more info / photos. If the prices are out of whack or you just need to haggle you can call or text also: 228 209 2632. Thanks! Bruce 1. Lubriplate APG 140 gear oil, 5 gal $85 2. D series grill $50 3. Kohler M12 pull start / cover $25 4. B/C series plastic tank - no valve SOLD 5. Deck belt covers $15 6. 300 series right running board $20 7. 300 series shift tunnel cover $5 8. 300 series tank w/cap no valve $20 9. Motor generator belt cover SOLD 10. #4421 foot rest $5 11. 300 series seat spring & bracket SOLD 12. 1" shaft electric PTO clutch $150 13. 1-1/8" shaft electric PTO clutch $150 14. 800 Special roller $50 15. M8 breather cover - no photo. $5

There have been quite a few 1277's show up in the last few years despite them being a bit rare in overall numbers . If nothing else , I've seen 3 in the last year show up on FB tractor and general buy/sell groups - might want to join a few in your area and keep an eye open . There was a really nice one that got parted up in Michigan - it was just too far to go after for me at the time . Sarge

I went big. This tractor will get an electric PTO clutch up front, but it will be a single pulley for the rear PTO, so AG only, I'll be putting the manual; clutch with the double pulley on my other D-160 which didn't have one when I got it. I got it. These tires were a present, and wifey had the tire guys put them on, been at the VA a lot and real tired, hope to be better soon

Worked on her a little this morning looks like the deck got ran into something, but nothing a little heat and persuasion can't fix Also removed the carb and breather for cleaning and also going to perform a valve adjustment upon reassembly. Pretty sure none of this has been done in a very long time.

Awesome!! I did a search but didn't pull anything up before I posted this thread.

Go with a check valve, very inexpensive. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/toro/995000 Then, always fuel the Horse before he settles down in the barn. Air in the fuel tank, cooling, will condensate (moisture/water) in the fuel. Not good for any gas engine.

Maybe I'm just old, but engines that always start on the very first try seem like a modern thing to me -- the realm of computerized engine controls and electronic fuel injection systems -- something that started with cars in the 90s. Most carburetor-equipped engines I've known need to either pump more fuel up into the carb, or at least get the fuel pressure up to spec before they'll start -- and that's if the right amount of choke is applied. The first crank usually gets the fuel ready, and gives you a hint as to needing choke and how much. (Or to get an automatic choke to open or close as it should.) The second crank usually gets it going for real. I suppose cranking it longer will eventually result in it starting on the first (extended) crank, but I don't like to run the starter too long at one go unless I really have to -- like with a flooded or genuinely troublesome engine. Maybe it's just muscle memory in my hand, but I'll always let go of the key and wait a few seconds, then crank again if it doesn't start within my habitual few key-holding seconds. Cold or damp weather usually adds more chances of an almost-start-then-stall, to be followed by really starting on one more crank. That pretty much sums up the behavior of most of the carburetor-equipped engines I've known, large or small.

Well ok so much for my wiring skills . Good thing I didn't do this with Dan's custom set of batt cables. Finished up the wiring and anxious to check things out so I jury rigged up a set of old batt cables with a piece of scrap 16 ga wire from batt + to batt term on the reg., just had it wedged between the post and clamp. Every thing checked out good. I did end up running from the L term to switch batt term and acc term had power with switch in acc and on positions. Motor turns over nice, gen light comes on as should. Didn't check for spark tho. For some stupid reason I was doing this with the cover off the reg. and accidentally operated the cutout relay with my forearm while reaching over the top of the tractor. Evidently this relay does not like to operated in such a manner as it froze shut and sent power from the reg batt term directly to ground. Talk about letting the smoke out! Luckily I had the presence of mind to quick pull the + batt cable off (I hadn't tightened the clamp) and avoid any damage to anything but a scrap wire and my pride! Wired a blade type fuse holder from switch acc term to lighter and lights but having a problem with the fuse blowing when the lighter is pushed in. Bad lighter or socket or perhaps too small a (15 Amp is all I had) fuse. Will have to work on that some more.

What do you mean by the first try? Do you have to do something other than just turn the key off and then turn it on again and it starts?

My 96 does the same thing if it sets more than a couple days. These fuel pumps take a while to pick up fuel especially when there is not much fuel in the tank. Mine does better if I fill it up before I park it. I've seen where some people put primer bulbs (like an outboard has) in the fuel line.

Yes Dan that is a good piece even tho it looks to be older than 953 nut! He probably remembers back in the day when there was one under every car hood. It's refreshing to see that guys here are keeping the old school technology alive. Really explains the operation of those regs in detail for us morethanwereallywantedtoknow guys. Maybe @gwest_ca could put that in the files if not already there. Will pick some up, bet the one on the 857 is bad too. I suspected it never worked hence the hole in the dash for an ammeter that I scrounged out of an old abandoned corn picker! . Can just see it under the wheel. Guess I have to leave it out since Dick took it out of the diagram! Thanks I really didn't want to have to cut a hole in that nice polished dash. Thanks for the help guys I have a pretty good idea on how to proceed now!

This is on Dan's 1076 and I took this pic to plagurize his wiring & gas line routing but then spied the show battery hold in! I'll get some better pics up when my paint is dry. Will also put up some tips on how to weld new studs on that tray that always seem to be gone. I had made one out of flat steel like orginal but liked his better and took it off and put it on the 1257.... I told you fellas they are often missing! Trading tip here Dan Take a short piece of 3/8" gas line or tubeing and cut it to slip on the bottom end of the lift lever stop for a nice cushion. @Achto

For ease of use, parts availability and dependability I would recommend buying a machine 20plus years newer than a 1277. Like a 300 or a 400 series. Mike.....

I made two when I did the original thread.... I've just taken a gamble and ordered another three from China, but no telling on whether they can be modified to work on single cylinder. Will keep you posted and if I can make one work - and print a decal or two I will offer them for sale...

Thanks for all the great pictures, I would love to see the Hit & Miss crawler in action! Lots of great tractors.