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we all know what deck spindles look like after 30 years. finding replacements is easy on line,but most look just what we are replacing. i have been through 3 in the past 2 years ,had another one fall apart the first mowing of the year and found another hanging on by 2 bolts,corrosion had removed the other two. so what to do ? well, first make some molds, next melt some metal and finally machine the castings. make them fit perfectly and make sure they wont break again. these run so smooth and quiet,shouldnt have wasted time or money on the other ones i replaced over the years...

Well the new to me 520 has pleasantly surprised me. No hidden issues and runs strong. Today after cutting it got another bath. I love getting on a clean machine.... specially in a neighborhood of cubs and craftsmen machines!

If you wish to post a lot of pics you may want to consider becoming a supporter. This would remove your picture limitations and help keep the lights on here. Trust me, it don't take long to get your money back in information and help.

Well, she's on all fours, and she runs!! Just gotta fix a problem of gas not getting to the carb. The rims and tires are temporary till I find a correct set, I also noticed that the steering wheel has never been cracked before which is a plus!!

If that tag is unreadable, and the numbers were stamped in (pressed in), use the old "tombstone rubbing" method: lightly clean it first, lay a piece of thin paper over it and rub lightly back & forth with the side of a pencil lead, the depressed area with the numbers should appear white on a dark background now.

So now we need a contest to find out the best use for a picture of Squonk 1. Your child has the hiccups and you flash the picture at him to scare the hiccups away 2 3 4 Or...The second place prize is a picture of Squonk. The first place prize is no picture of Squonk. Don't feel bad, because my wife is the only person on Earth who thinks i am good lookin'

I'm just going to use this for a photo dump and ask questions as I bring some glory back into my C-121 Decided to dive into it last night. By no means will this be a super in depth resto. More along the lines of cleaning (a lot of it) and some minor painting. I will be leaving the panels the way they are as it is original and I like the look. Main concern is it being mechanically sound. The motor will be coming out tonight.

Here is some stuff I have up for sale on the classified and CL that I'd be willing to bring to the show if paid for prior..... Prices are in the classifieds and may change and since one cant edit posts in this thread, seek the pricing there or PM me.

Here is the picture that hangs in the guest bedroom.

Appears to be an id tag under the twin decal.

This is on Dan's 1076 and I took this pic to plagurize his wiring & gas line routing but then spied the show battery hold in! I'll get some better pics up when my paint is dry. Will also put up some tips on how to weld new studs on that tray that always seem to be gone. I had made one out of flat steel like orginal but liked his better and took it off and put it on the 1257.... I told you fellas they are often missing! Trading tip here Dan Take a short piece of 3/8" gas line or tubeing and cut it to slip on the bottom end of the lift lever stop for a nice cushion. @Achto

This situation opens up the opportunity for members to start manufacturing replacements themselves, as many of us have. The quantities will be small, much too small for the big boys to reproduce. Many of us may have special knowledges to do this, it does provide an opportunity to make a little extra money and "stay out of trouble" with the spouses. It does not take a big investment if we start small and conservative, utilizing just what we may have. Red Square and the Venders Section provides a great opportunity to advertise and we have a great community to help promote our replacements. From someone who has been happily doing this for 17 years now; start small, very small and listen to input. You're not going to get a lot of sales the next week, it takes time for people to start purchasing your items. Good Luck . . . .

Sorry to hear this. Personally I wouldn't trust anything to those quick lube places. Not impressed with the concept of trusting my vehicle to people who are payed minimal wages and poorly trained. The maintenance intervals called for in Kohler and manuals have proven to be very successful, Lots of us are working forty and fifty year old equipment.

Mine has 16x6.50-8 fronts and 23x8.50-12 on the rear

I'll second the quality and workmanship of Mrs Buckrancher's seat covers!

I bought one for my 854 and about buy another for my modified project.

Wellllll! I guess I won't have to beg you to sell me that extremely hard to find steering wheel. Don't remember what boat manufacturer used that same wheel but I do remember seeing one like it on a '60s vintage boat, it was white too.

You can dump your on us anytime then!

Not sure about that wheel @953 nut, it definitely was not painted but sure looks like an original. Was white through and through. I'm thinkin it maybe came off a Cub & made by the same supplier to WH? Weren't Cub wheels white? It was stuck on so bad I had to cut the spokes off, melt, the plastic off and then go at it with big pullers & lots of heat wrench. Didn't care if I trashed it I was goig to get the correct color anyway and can't tell from the pic but was way out of round. I did get a real nice original replacement from A-Z Maybe I shouldn't have trashed it as maybe it was a fluke factory original?!?!?

Depends on the model year. Earlier C175 used Series 1 KT17s The oiling system was weak and if run low on oil or run on hill they had a tendency tp throw a rod. The Series 2 used on later models had much improved oil pressure systems and are excellent engines. Just finished mowing a neighbors yard (Hadn't been mowed yer 8-10 inches tall) the C175 with a Series 2 did a great job. no power issues. That said I also have a Series 1 with well over 2000 hours it still runs well smokes a bit on start up. Keep a series 1 full up (or a little over) avoid runnng long periods on hills they will probably work just fine. Spec #24300 and up are Series 2

Check with buckrancher.

Well did a little tinkering. installed a battery. Cleaned the contacts in the ignition switch, and she fired right up and even idled. Mowed a little hastily but not too bad Performed a compression test after test run, seems a little low got 90 psi not sure what spec is. All in all not bad for original 40 year old engine. Transmission seems to operate smoothly in forward and reverse. One of the lines from the front of the lift cylinder to the valve is leaking I will have to address as well.

Probably because a lot of people couldn't justify the electric start at the initial purchase... these machines were comparatively expensive to purchase new, even back in the day. So I would imagine that some people opted for the most economical model they could, and perhaps just upgraded to electric after the first one blew up, when they could afford it, or when they got tired of pulling the rope! I'm sure the dealers didn't mind having a couple spare take-off or trade-in engines around to sell for those people who couldn't afford a new one.

Yes Dan that is a good piece even tho it looks to be older than 953 nut! He probably remembers back in the day when there was one under every car hood. It's refreshing to see that guys here are keeping the old school technology alive. Really explains the operation of those regs in detail for us morethanwereallywantedtoknow guys. Maybe @gwest_ca could put that in the files if not already there. Will pick some up, bet the one on the 857 is bad too. I suspected it never worked hence the hole in the dash for an ammeter that I scrounged out of an old abandoned corn picker! . Can just see it under the wheel. Guess I have to leave it out since Dick took it out of the diagram! Thanks I really didn't want to have to cut a hole in that nice polished dash. Thanks for the help guys I have a pretty good idea on how to proceed now!

Well, after working on it a little more, found out it is the early SMS-425. This was for the Round Hoods....so....may be trying to mount it on the 701. OH..... additionally, if anyone has pics of yhe engagement pedal setup I wpuld greatly appreciate it

It may take a few days to find you!

Wonder if it isn't a WorkHorse in disguise but think the 8-speed was 16hp. Garry

To make sliding the deck under the tractor even easier and to avoid scuffing the wheels and rollers on my rough asphalt driveway, I use four of these 6" dollies: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YOKC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Just lift the corners of the deck and slip one under each gauge wheel and the outer two anti-scalp rollers. Makes it really easy to line it up.

http://www.navioneer.org/riprelay/The Navion Files/Delco_Remy_Generator_Regulators.pdf According to this book by Delco Remy, page 16. The L term works as such.... When load is increased on the L terminal the output of the generator is increased & this power is sent to the accessories pulling the load but not the battery. Hence providing extra power for the accessories with out over charging the battery. The 1445 bulb is a 2.7watt 14v bulb, it should be available at most automotive stores.

@squonk How did you photo shop Dino's gut on me in that photo? Where is Waldo?

1. park it on a level concrete or asphalt area with 5' of room on the right side 2. turn the wheels to the left 3. loosen the mule drive and take the deck drive belt off the deck pulley 4.raise the deck with the lift-a-matic 5. release the deck from the mid attach-a-matic 6. lower the lift-a-matic. 7. pull the deck out the right side. till the left deck carriage bar catches on the deck lift bar 8. you will have to lift the deck lift bar over the left deck carriage bar. 9. if the deck is not going back on, remove the belt from the PTO and unlatch the mule drive.... no need to take the belt off the mule drive. 20 minutes the first time , 5 minutes the 10th time

I'm getting ready to make myself one of those factory style weight brackets for mowing steep banks, but for garden plowing I made up this with suitcase weights gives it the big farm tractor look, Jeff.

Boy! did I get abused in this thread Ahh the price of fame! Here's the 2nd place winner's award. Frame it up and I'll sign it!

Well lots of guys would Jimbo.... case the Mrs wants to hang it over the mantle, wall paper the dog house, line the cat box...lots of uses!

Picked this up today and I'm very happy with it!! Early 1956 RJ35 with cast iron steering wheel. Down the road I will be tiring this into a 1955 RJ! Thanks Shawn!! What does everyone think? Definitely a project but definitely a restoreable one!

So here is a bracket I am making for a project. Gotta be the easiest I have ever made. Anybody care to guess what it is for? There is one guy here who knows what it's for so he is excluded from this contest and if he spills the beans no adult beverages for him for the whole '17 tractor show season! Contest winner gets the usual famous autographed pic of @squonk looking like a vagrant at the bus stop. By the way this is not an original design, I stole it from the aforementioned member who is in grave danger of having a very dry tractor show season. Also by the way most of us horse heads have needed this as it is ALWAYs missing, broken, busted or rotted out on a new to me tractor. If there is one it is usually affixed to tractor with baling wire, coat hanger or some other type of PO nonsense. I have been know to go years with out one but this is a special project. Starts out with these three simple pieces. A short length of 1 or 3/4 inch angle & two rubber isolation mounts. These mounts are pretty common and can be had just about anywhere online. I had a few on the shelf from bike builds where they are used quite a bit. They are 1/4-20 threads and can be had male/male, female/male, female/female. Round the corners of the angle off as much or little as desired. Sharp edges are to be avoided as well as lawsuits for a bad design and avoidance of workman's comps claims.

Now we expect plenty of if you didn't know your Missus had a paypal act maybe she won't notice your tractor buying habits!?!!?

I bought one from him for my 753 and it was perfect!

I do see them on that popular auction site and Amazon but would encourage you to seek our guys first.

@Texas Todd We are all glad you were born!

Making repro parts or selling off Parts from parters is not going to get anyone rich, it's just a part-time fun-time occupation, to make a significant profit is very unlikely, you'll just make a few extra bucks . . . . To make a profit, you have to factor in: transportation/travel time (gas & wear), trailer & related equipment like storage & covers, electricity, workshop & tool use and biggest of all, your time (when you could be doing something else constructive too). Time from family and spouse must be factored in, and customers always want something at an inconvenient time. Most people really appreciate what you may be offering, but them sometimes someone will let you know they are unhappy & you need a thick skin. The only 100% full-time Wheel Horse person I'm aware of is Gene Strickland in KY, selling parts plus restoring Wheel Horses to perfect original, but then he is really hustling and probably working at least 60-70 hours/week (www.WheelHorseStables.com). For me, there is a lot of satisfaction in making people happy, especially when they say so and proudly show off their projects (baby). For me to go to the Big Show in PA in June will easily cost $1,000 in expenses (gas, motel, food, thank gosh I have my wife to help), but the rush of happy eager faces is worth it. In the end, I'm having a lot of quality fun and enjoying it. I've seen many people offer a needed item, maybe sell a couple, and then cease, -- most items will be a very slow low-volume sell and take time. Re: HAPCO, Brandon, the owner is mainly a fun-time big-time farmer, but Kate & Mike do run the magazine and the business full time for him. They have taken a risk on having some needed items remanufactured (seats & toys), I would think they are doing OK but are not big profit makers. FYI: I did check in on having some 1:24 scale Wheel Horse 312 tractors made in China, like ERTLs are; it was $25,000 up front for 1,000 pieces. Any item remanufactured by a big business will have a significant up-front price or a large minimum order, again, paid upfront, if anyone of us is going to take a big financial risk, we want a guaranteed significant RTO, which may put the retail price up to $100. Some members have access to a machine shop at work and may be able to use on their own time, that can save a ton of cost. Sometimes a Wheel Horse part is the exact same as also used for another brand of garden tractor or something unique, and a inventory is found somewhere for cheap. (for example: K-91 engines were used in oil fields, and lots of spare parts are being found now).

Only thing older than me is DIRT! S/G units didn't begin with , a friend has a 1924 Dodge Brothers roadster pickup that has a S?G unit. PS: nice 953/1054 steering wheel, never seen one painted white.

It looks like it might be primer tho? Hard to tell. Either way nice score & save!

I think Garry nailed it too. The "TWIN" decal, no height adjuster and the B&S engine all point to a Work Horse.

Thanks guys. As an old friend of mine used to say..."One year closer to dirt!"

There should be a tag under the seat with a model number.

Giving me the picture What can I do to get out of this

I couldn't agree more. I've dealt with several of the vendors here and without exception every one is top notch.

Thanks everyone...especially for the compliments. This tractor means a lot to me since it was also the last one my dad owned! As for comparable, the same dealer that this WH came from now sells the Husqvarna line....we looked into the GT52XLSi or something similar, still didn't seem as well built as the 20 year old WH, but was in deed a garden tractor as opposed to the garbage the big dept stores sell. Coming in close to $4000, and almost $5000 for a JD that compared to the Husqvarna. I have a mild ticking sound in the Kohler and I'd much rather look into rebuilding it than buying a brand new garden tractor that still doesn't seem to match up to the WH! Not to mention there's just something about the look of the older tractors. It's like comparing a muscle car from the 60's to a Honda civic or something. haha

The 8363 uses the screw because it has a (float or detent) position - notice the Allen head screw that is where the spring and ball for the detent is - notice the 6629 is not drilled and tapped.