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Here are a few pics of my project.Neighbor kid mowinGrandpa plowing 1999.

I picked this nice running little 603 up a few weeks ago from Fun Engineer. I added the back rest and some old wheel weight I had laying around. Had it out putting around and thought I would take a couple pics to post. I will probably blast the whole machine down piece by piece and give her a new coat some day. I have had just about every, sought after, model from one time to another, but this is my first 603. Glad I picked her up.

Picked this up today and I'm very happy with it!! Early 1956 RJ35 with cast iron steering wheel. Down the road I will be tiring this into a 1955 RJ! Thanks Shawn!! What does everyone think? Definitely a project but definitely a restoreable one!

For ease of use, parts availability and dependability I would recommend buying a machine 20plus years newer than a 1277. Like a 300 or a 400 series. Mike.....

My preference for a mower would be a C or 300 series tractor. 12 HP will easily turn a 42"deck. For the 48" I would prefer a 14 or 16HP.

Picked up a C-120 today off craiglist for a good price this morning and thought I would see what you all thought. I failed to take a pic of the serial number, not even sure its there. But I know the paint is original. Looks like the seat, steering wheel, hood emblem, and most everything else is original and correct I think. From pictures I have looked at I think its a 74 or 75. It has some wiring issues so I haven't got it running yet, but the guy promises me it runs. I only paid $145 so I think I got a good deal. Any ideas on what the wheel weights came off of?

Just wanted to say hello from PA. I can't wait to use this forum,I never knew their was such a huge Wheel Horse community. My grandfather was a dealer for many years so I grew up on these things. I have a 1054, 953, and just got a 520-H. I am looking forward to meeting many of you who I am sure have a lot of knowledge to share.

Not sure why I bought this. Maybe because it was only $100 which I'm sure was still too much. Runs good and got it from the original owner. Figure it's at least a conversation piece.

Are these the parts you want... ? Do you need the ROUND or the OBLONG spindle cup? I have a 42" blade.....just not in this pic. For details and price, send me an email OUTSIDE of this red square forum. my email is: daveoman@windstream.net

You done good. There's something about those little riders that is so cool. A while back I was compelled to convert a green thingy into this.

First of all, if the engine is a K-321, it should be the same as a K241. Did you check the Kohler K-Series Service Manual? Here is the page right out of the manual.

I purchased my first Wheel Horse new in 1978, a C141/8 with a 42 inch mower deck, tiller, 12 inch turning plow. Later I made a set of cultivators for it from an old David Bradley set of cultivators. I has been a workhorse and is still in the stable. Later. I purchased the dirt blade which is positioned in front of the tractor and is used to push dirt with. And later still. I purchased a Brinly dirt blade that can be operated to pull from the clevis hitch. Then about 2000, I purchased a used 1995 Toro/Wheel Horse 312/8 with a 42 inch mower deck. Through some swapping, I acquired a motorcycle trailer frame which I can pull from either tractor, as well as my zero turn mower (not a Toro or WH). So I have been a log term Wheel Horse owner/user, but new to the forum.

520 with 405 hours and broken rod, power bagged and tiller. Gear reduction with swept axle

Please do NOT restore that one. That is way too nice to restore. Great find!

There isn't much if any stress on that point. Thread in a pipe plug degrease the area build a form with duct tape and fill it with JB Weld They have a putty version that should not flow into the case.

Had to move the 60" deck from the garage to the barn and did not want to take the mid mount blade off of the C-195 so I squeezed it under the C-160. As long as you don't want to turn sharp you are ok! Looks pretty cool under there though.

Decent looking tractor but way to pricey in my mind.In my part of the world $700 to $800 maybe.There are in my mind too many of these machines out there to pay the asking price for the machine you show.I'm sure others here will advise you but I'd pass on the machine for that price.Trust me Wheel Horses are like Lays potato chips.You can't have just one.In the last 2 years I have brought home at least 6 and have never paid more than $450 for any of them.Some ran with no work and some needed attention.They all are still here and have different duties.Luck,JAinVA

I need help identifying this tractor. It is suppossed to be a 1960 Suburban model 400. It has the 1960 front axle, but the engine controls and possibly the hood, look like a 1959 RJ. It has the solid seat which was a transition from 59 to 60, so is this a transitition model or someone's 59/60 combo tractor? It is close by me, and I am seriously thinking about getting it if it is a 1960 model (year I was born). Thanks

Nice job, looks better with the gas tank moved to the hood and not attached with that Briggs engine. Hot Rod 401 Just be sure to work out the belt if it's grinding gears. If the belt is still spinning when you use the clutch/brake, it will grind the gears. there are a couple of ways to stop it like adding 1/4" rod bent into "fingers" to support the belt or making a custom fit belt guard to support the belt and/or a belt brake added to the idler pulley

The thing about wheel horse, is that very often there really is no "correct" especially in the earlier years. There may be a "more common", but the ponds were notorious for using up what they had laying around. The tiny details are just not a big deal on these years, they wont change the value significantly, save for a few exceptions.

Hydro Motor to Transaxle / Transaxle to Frame 177.) Transaxle motor gasket area taped off 178.) Tape removed/cleaned 179.) Comparing different gaskets, notice the second one would leak!!! 180.) Strainer 181.) Installed 182.) Gasket placed on transaxle with guide bolt 183.) Hex bolts/washers 184.) Motor installed 185.) "I.D." Tag 186.) Installed 187.) Transaxle mounted to frame with Dipstick and Chrome oil fill nipple 188.) Hex bolts/washers {These are not all O.E.M. correct as I did not have the 3/8" x16 -7/8" on hand. I will replace them later.} It is also worth noting that I am adding the hydro cooling fan and the bracket, that the fan mounts to, should be bolted on here above the frame; however, I purposely left it off and will install it later. Next the rear hubs

Very good explanation, 953 nut! I have been preaching this for a long time, I cringe when some one posts-"Just set 'em at .020 and you will be good." I learned this when I set the points at .020 on the K161 on my Troy- Bilt Horse tiller. It wouldn't run well at all. The pdf you referenced is good material for .020 crowd to read, and the method is explained in the Kohler manual.

This was the way I went and used some of the epoxy putty been working great for a couple weeks now

I would be tempted to JB-Weld the old piece back in place but instead of using the pipe plug install a short pipe nipple and cap.

Tall wet grass is not a fair bar to judge by as it should be the exception to the rule. Even if the unit can cut it, it will leave clumps and will collect up under the deck and generally be a big pain in the neck. BTW, 14 horse is plenty. Especially for this deck. Weighs less than the 520 60 inch deck too. I don't have photos handy but I had my GT14 set up similarly and have posted pics on the forum previously.

This is what I ended up with on the 2.0 version of the K161 air cleaner cover. Engraved the front of it with my pencil grinder and 1/8" ball cutter. I'll give you guys a little helpful hint, if you ever use a sanding disc, cutter, etc on aluminum put a little wax on the cutter. It will keep it from loading up. Tried polishing the cover up per 953nut suggestion but didn't like the finish... so back to Regal Red.

Hard to say, could be a 400 (1960) or a 401 (1961). The 400 should have a rectangular cut out for the throttle and choke controls and the 401 would have a round one with a cap to plug it, A previous owner must have done some body work and filled the opening. It looks nice, go get it!

Thanks chap's, the process does sound a bit violent, I'll go and see the man and see what he says. If he could do the rims, frame and maybe the steering console that would help me on.

I used a 90 416-H with the 6" front tires on and put a 520 60" deck under it, but that was a onan. wouldn't have wanted to use it in tall wet grass though eric j

Could be a fuse, take a look at the wiring diagram and see if it helps. Probably the 25 amp fuse between the battery and ignition switch, a short in the lighting system would blow it and prevent the solenoid from working from the switch.

DAVE ,, to red square. And thank you for your service It's a bit high in my opinion to. Glenn

That's what I assumed you meant, but needed clarification to answer your question. The original Wheel Horse number is 9783. It's a 1/2" x 71" belt. I use a Gates PowerRated belt which is 6871.

I would take a long look at the C-160H. IMO, this would be the ideal tractor if I could only have one. But then I am partial to the Cs, Kohler K engines and Hydros w/hyd lift and foot motion control. The 160 could handle any implement you eventually put on it including a snow thrower or tiller. You just need to do some checks to verify the hydro is strong.

The C-160 and GT-14 are both very good choices. Depending on the size of your lawn and other factors like other things you want to do with it the GT-14 may be a bit bigger than needed, I have one with a front end loader and don't think I would want to mow with it because of all the tight turns and obstetrical I encounter. The C-160 is only slightly bigger than the 877 and will handle a 48" deck effortlessly. That being said, a test drive of each will tell you which one is for you. No mater what you buy,

I did find a local c160 hydro with 42" deck and a GT14 so I might have to check them out.

The annual Wheel Horse Collector's Club show AKA the "Big Show" is coming up next month not too far from you. Plan on coming over and bring your choice of , The feature tractor will be the 520, but I would prefer you bring the 953.

The model number on the tractor's ID plate is 1-0356-9 The 9 is not used but if you subtract 5 from that 6th digit you get the model year. 9-5=4=1974 You will see 6, 7, 8 and 9 used on the attachments at the time also representing 1971, 1972, 1973 and 1974. The tractor model number also identifies the year but often attachment model numbers where used more than one year so the 6th digit identifies the model year. Garry

Had one 42" SD deck, sold it. Use 48" SD decks and never had any problems with 12 hp Kohlers. Of course my 14 hp, 16 hp and 20 hp are unstoppable. I do like 400 series Horses. Who doesn't?

Finally got my home built drag bar built, painted, and installed. It is set to push or pull both straight or at 45 degrees left or right. Made it from scrap metal laying around the shop.

While working I stopped at a small engine shop to ask about tractors or small engine advertising. The owner said he didn't have anything to sell, his wife reminded him he had a sign in the back so she went to get it. Was a brand new Briggs aluminum sign still in the cardboard. Asked him what he wanted for it, and $20 later I had it on it's way to my garage. Before I left he told me to go by his house as he remembered he had 3 more signs he would sell. 1 is Briggs, 1 is tecumseh, and 1 is kohler engines sign. Gonna call him Monday and see about getting them also(they are in good shape but been displayed for along time!

Same here Richard. The best part of the show, after bantering back and forth all year, is to meet all the "old guys" in person. Hopefully I will be better at putting the old faces and names together and adding some new guys to the old timers list.

Seems to me if it still has a 3cyl diesel in good running condition that just the engine should be worth $500. Otherwise I don't know much about that newer mowers. Btw become a sponsor to have unlimited photo space! Good luck.

Pfrederi thanks for the quick reply. After I posted my question I went into the garage and started removing the carb off the engine. I took it apart and cleaned it with carb cleaner and then I got back on req square and I was going to search for a manual on adjusting the carb when I saw I had a reply to my post. Sure enough it looks like the previous owner installed a rebuild kit including a new float and never adjusted the tab as it was perfectly straight. I adjusted it as close as I could to 11/64th's using my digital caliber and put it all back together. Fired the tractor up and rode it around the yard for a couple minutes and it didn't spit or sputter once. I would've ran it longer but my yard is really wet from all the rain. Anyways I think that's all that was wrong with it so thanks for posting that!

Check your float. Make sure there is no gas in it. also check the level and drop. Level is 11/64th drop is 1-1/32

A bad fuse block is also a common problem.

The Mrs Rules loves hers too. Nice score.

It's not an RJ hood. The seat definitely isn't original. No foot rests to maybe assist in the identification but even then, those are easily and often swapped. The only thing I can think of as a clue is the clutch/brake rod where it connects to the clutch arm. The rod was solid in 1960. In 1961 it had a threaded trunnion on the end for adjustment. 55+ years of parts swapping and tinkering but no harm, no foul. It looks nice and maybe represents Wheel Horse quite accurately since that happened so often. I'm with Richard, go get it. Just noticed something else if I'm seeing it correctly. The clutch/brake pedal looks like a 60 but the view isn't too good.

Your post doesn't make sense. "If I hotwire it. it turns over but does not crank. I'm thinking ignition switch and /or relay." Maybe its me but it doesn't make sense. It turns over as normal but does not crank. I assume when someone says it turns over it cranks. Do you mean you can turn it over by hand but it doesn't turn over with the starter? I have to ask this...did you remove a 25 A fuse or had someone stuck a larger fuse in its place at one time or another? A larger fuse in place of the 25A fuse certainly means more trouble. Time to get out your meter.... Attach the neg probe to the black wire on the starter relay attach the red probe to the red lead on the relay. Be sure the meter is in the VDC scale. Turn the key and see if you have 12VDC on your meter. If not attach a jumper wire from ground to the black wire on the relay and recheck.

Welcome back, horses love green grass.

A combination of spray carb cleaner followed by non-chlorinated brake cleaner does a good job of getting oil out of the casting pores.