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Here are a few pics of my project.Neighbor kid mowinGrandpa plowing 1999.

I picked this nice running little 603 up a few weeks ago from Fun Engineer. I added the back rest and some old wheel weight I had laying around. Had it out putting around and thought I would take a couple pics to post. I will probably blast the whole machine down piece by piece and give her a new coat some day. I have had just about every, sought after, model from one time to another, but this is my first 603. Glad I picked her up.

Picked this up today and I'm very happy with it!! Early 1956 RJ35 with cast iron steering wheel. Down the road I will be tiring this into a 1955 RJ! Thanks Shawn!! What does everyone think? Definitely a project but definitely a restoreable one!

For ease of use, parts availability and dependability I would recommend buying a machine 20plus years newer than a 1277. Like a 300 or a 400 series. Mike.....

My preference for a mower would be a C or 300 series tractor. 12 HP will easily turn a 42"deck. For the 48" I would prefer a 14 or 16HP.

Picked up a C-120 today off craiglist for a good price this morning and thought I would see what you all thought. I failed to take a pic of the serial number, not even sure its there. But I know the paint is original. Looks like the seat, steering wheel, hood emblem, and most everything else is original and correct I think. From pictures I have looked at I think its a 74 or 75. It has some wiring issues so I haven't got it running yet, but the guy promises me it runs. I only paid $145 so I think I got a good deal. Any ideas on what the wheel weights came off of?

Just wanted to say hello from PA. I can't wait to use this forum,I never knew their was such a huge Wheel Horse community. My grandfather was a dealer for many years so I grew up on these things. I have a 1054, 953, and just got a 520-H. I am looking forward to meeting many of you who I am sure have a lot of knowledge to share.

Not sure why I bought this. Maybe because it was only $100 which I'm sure was still too much. Runs good and got it from the original owner. Figure it's at least a conversation piece.

Are these the parts you want... ? Do you need the ROUND or the OBLONG spindle cup? I have a 42" blade.....just not in this pic. For details and price, send me an email OUTSIDE of this red square forum. my email is: daveoman@windstream.net

You done good. There's something about those little riders that is so cool. A while back I was compelled to convert a green thingy into this.

First of all, if the engine is a K-321, it should be the same as a K241. Did you check the Kohler K-Series Service Manual? Here is the page right out of the manual.

I purchased my first Wheel Horse new in 1978, a C141/8 with a 42 inch mower deck, tiller, 12 inch turning plow. Later I made a set of cultivators for it from an old David Bradley set of cultivators. I has been a workhorse and is still in the stable. Later. I purchased the dirt blade which is positioned in front of the tractor and is used to push dirt with. And later still. I purchased a Brinly dirt blade that can be operated to pull from the clevis hitch. Then about 2000, I purchased a used 1995 Toro/Wheel Horse 312/8 with a 42 inch mower deck. Through some swapping, I acquired a motorcycle trailer frame which I can pull from either tractor, as well as my zero turn mower (not a Toro or WH). So I have been a log term Wheel Horse owner/user, but new to the forum.

520 with 405 hours and broken rod, power bagged and tiller. Gear reduction with swept axle

Please do NOT restore that one. That is way too nice to restore. Great find!

There isn't much if any stress on that point. Thread in a pipe plug degrease the area build a form with duct tape and fill it with JB Weld They have a putty version that should not flow into the case.

Had to move the 60" deck from the garage to the barn and did not want to take the mid mount blade off of the C-195 so I squeezed it under the C-160. As long as you don't want to turn sharp you are ok! Looks pretty cool under there though.

Decent looking tractor but way to pricey in my mind.In my part of the world $700 to $800 maybe.There are in my mind too many of these machines out there to pay the asking price for the machine you show.I'm sure others here will advise you but I'd pass on the machine for that price.Trust me Wheel Horses are like Lays potato chips.You can't have just one.In the last 2 years I have brought home at least 6 and have never paid more than $450 for any of them.Some ran with no work and some needed attention.They all are still here and have different duties.Luck,JAinVA

I need help identifying this tractor. It is suppossed to be a 1960 Suburban model 400. It has the 1960 front axle, but the engine controls and possibly the hood, look like a 1959 RJ. It has the solid seat which was a transition from 59 to 60, so is this a transitition model or someone's 59/60 combo tractor? It is close by me, and I am seriously thinking about getting it if it is a 1960 model (year I was born). Thanks

Nice job, looks better with the gas tank moved to the hood and not attached with that Briggs engine. Hot Rod 401 Just be sure to work out the belt if it's grinding gears. If the belt is still spinning when you use the clutch/brake, it will grind the gears. there are a couple of ways to stop it like adding 1/4" rod bent into "fingers" to support the belt or making a custom fit belt guard to support the belt and/or a belt brake added to the idler pulley

The thing about wheel horse, is that very often there really is no "correct" especially in the earlier years. There may be a "more common", but the ponds were notorious for using up what they had laying around. The tiny details are just not a big deal on these years, they wont change the value significantly, save for a few exceptions.

Hydro Motor to Transaxle / Transaxle to Frame 177.) Transaxle motor gasket area taped off 178.) Tape removed/cleaned 179.) Comparing different gaskets, notice the second one would leak!!! 180.) Strainer 181.) Installed 182.) Gasket placed on transaxle with guide bolt 183.) Hex bolts/washers 184.) Motor installed 185.) "I.D." Tag 186.) Installed 187.) Transaxle mounted to frame with Dipstick and Chrome oil fill nipple 188.) Hex bolts/washers {These are not all O.E.M. correct as I did not have the 3/8" x16 -7/8" on hand. I will replace them later.} It is also worth noting that I am adding the hydro cooling fan and the bracket, that the fan mounts to, should be bolted on here above the frame; however, I purposely left it off and will install it later. Next the rear hubs

Very good explanation, 953 nut! I have been preaching this for a long time, I cringe when some one posts-"Just set 'em at .020 and you will be good." I learned this when I set the points at .020 on the K161 on my Troy- Bilt Horse tiller. It wouldn't run well at all. The pdf you referenced is good material for .020 crowd to read, and the method is explained in the Kohler manual.

This was the way I went and used some of the epoxy putty been working great for a couple weeks now

I would be tempted to JB-Weld the old piece back in place but instead of using the pipe plug install a short pipe nipple and cap.

Tall wet grass is not a fair bar to judge by as it should be the exception to the rule. Even if the unit can cut it, it will leave clumps and will collect up under the deck and generally be a big pain in the neck. BTW, 14 horse is plenty. Especially for this deck. Weighs less than the 520 60 inch deck too. I don't have photos handy but I had my GT14 set up similarly and have posted pics on the forum previously.

This is what I ended up with on the 2.0 version of the K161 air cleaner cover. Engraved the front of it with my pencil grinder and 1/8" ball cutter. I'll give you guys a little helpful hint, if you ever use a sanding disc, cutter, etc on aluminum put a little wax on the cutter. It will keep it from loading up. Tried polishing the cover up per 953nut suggestion but didn't like the finish... so back to Regal Red.

Hard to say, could be a 400 (1960) or a 401 (1961). The 400 should have a rectangular cut out for the throttle and choke controls and the 401 would have a round one with a cap to plug it, A previous owner must have done some body work and filled the opening. It looks nice, go get it!

Thanks chap's, the process does sound a bit violent, I'll go and see the man and see what he says. If he could do the rims, frame and maybe the steering console that would help me on.

I used a 90 416-H with the 6" front tires on and put a 520 60" deck under it, but that was a onan. wouldn't have wanted to use it in tall wet grass though eric j

Could be a fuse, take a look at the wiring diagram and see if it helps. Probably the 25 amp fuse between the battery and ignition switch, a short in the lighting system would blow it and prevent the solenoid from working from the switch.

Found this on CL this morning, couldn't pass it up....(this has got to stop). Came with front deck carrier, 48" bagger/recycler deck, (no bagger or blower, but rear bagger bracket) two mule drives, & a couple odds & ends. Runs good, no smoke or noises, 1200 hrs on the clock

I have been dormant here and in my wheel horse activities for 6 months or so. But now my wife and I finally have a house of our own so now that means my wheel horses have a yard and driveway of their own. That also means I have to nurse them all back into health... The first being my 1056 witch will be my main mower. It has its work cut out for it the yard has yet to be mowed...

Welcome to the Forum . I agree with Jim Anderson that is a little high for this neck of the woods. See what some of guys Wis. say about the price. Also check the classified section , that will give you some ideas.

The C-160 and GT-14 are both very good choices. Depending on the size of your lawn and other factors like other things you want to do with it the GT-14 may be a bit bigger than needed, I have one with a front end loader and don't think I would want to mow with it because of all the tight turns and obstetrical I encounter. The C-160 is only slightly bigger than the 877 and will handle a 48" deck effortlessly. That being said, a test drive of each will tell you which one is for you. No mater what you buy,

Would be pretty hard to Photoshop a walk around video, right?

Had one 42" SD deck, sold it. Use 48" SD decks and never had any problems with 12 hp Kohlers. Of course my 14 hp, 16 hp and 20 hp are unstoppable. I do like 400 series Horses. Who doesn't?

Be awfully hard to beat a 312-8 with 42" deck for durability and ease of maintenance...nearly bulletproof..mows great too - easy deck to maintain without a strain..had one for years - should have kept it....

Same here Richard. The best part of the show, after bantering back and forth all year, is to meet all the "old guys" in person. Hopefully I will be better at putting the old faces and names together and adding some new guys to the old timers list.

The 1961 Suburban hood had a crease that runs from gas cap to steering wheel. The 1960 Suburban did not. They only had the crease that runs along the top of the front tin and stoped where the hood tin connects to the front as pictured.

Sounds like you have a short to ground . Possibly a pinched or bare wire from the ignition or starter side of the ignition switch.

Seems to me if it still has a 3cyl diesel in good running condition that just the engine should be worth $500. Otherwise I don't know much about that newer mowers. Btw become a sponsor to have unlimited photo space! Good luck.

Garry is correct. But so is everyone else. (Proud of their parts) Toro - $69.34 RCPW - $67.45 PartsTree - $70.48 I guess you could try to find a used switch, but you roll the dice when you buy one, especially online. At least with a new switch, you know what you've got. I guess it depends if you want to swallow that hard or not. I've been there before with some other parts, and sometimes that's all you can do. Unfortunately.

A bad fuse block is also a common problem.

Still available from Toro but they are very proud of them. Garry

Garry

Ok. Thanks all for the help with the paint colors (and the laughs )! I used Rust-Oleum 7765 Regal Red and 249110 Gloss Ivory. The Ivory was Painter's Touch Ultra Cover paint plus primer, so I'm not sure it is exactly right, but it looks good. Besides, it's to late now! I already had the engine painted with engine black and decided to not change it. Emblems (and tractor ID) came from redoyourhorse.com. Nice reproductions. Seat from Rural King, and bracket from a 520. Nice and cushioned and slides so I can get on and off easily. Lights are all led's so they don't draw much power. Nice and bright, to! This GT 2500 Anniversary Special "daily driver" needed a drive belt, a brake and a minor repair. One thing led to another and here it is! Thanks again everyone for your help!

Picked up a 5hp MacKissic chipper shredder awhile ago . Today I got the quick attach brackets made today , just need to get a belt.

It would not be enough unless you were maintining a green at a golf course lol. I mowed with the c160 today with a 48"(grass was tall) and it was all it wanted. Bore it out to 20hp and change the axle, it would be an awesome mowing machine

Put some little 6" wheels on the front, and you should be good to go.