Leaderboard

Finally got the 520-8 home today. Got some work to do to it. The norm - someone has messed with the wiring. Ran a wire off the switch straight to the starter solenoid. None of the gauges work with the exception of the voltage. Deck will need some patching. But the spindles are nice and quiet. Now the hard part of making room in the garage.

Well after starting the fever with a 314-8, then a 416-8 (which has been sold) and then a 2005 Classic with 87 hrs (sold also) then a 416-h worker that has exceeded all expectations over the last 2 years, I got my 520 today!!!! Hope I don't get the fever for an SLE...!

I put three 12s to work today. First mowing I like to cut it short and suck up all the leftover debris from the dethatching. The C-120 and the Raider 12 shared the mowing and sweeping duties. The 312 tilled in the fertilizer in the garden.

Yesterday we had a nice day so it was time to Put the Horse to Work. Well my ACE PUHEE helped in the first task of De-Thatching, after that he was just like any other kid he had to take off with MA and shuck his chores So I had to finish the Sweeping and Bagging myself. I ended up bagging 5 55 gal bags full of dead grass. The 522XI did me a mighty fine job, and the Cruise Cont. was nice and the Gas Usage was great and better than I expected it would be.

REMEMBER: It's not how fast you MOW It's how well you MOW FAST!!!

Morning Dennis, well at least we've moved on from your rear, In the background you see a crude workshop woodburner (the horizontal tank is a heat exchanger). Whx11, so your theory is because I struggled to get a steering wheel off, I went on to build this thing, having had a weird dream......yeah......right....ok, you sound as unhinged as me, you'll fit right in, welcome aboard! Definitely doing the seat tonight.

Just like my other tractors, the AC 912H found it's way into the work force. Used it to pull the dump cart while edging along the sidewalk.

The size of the yard has nothing to do with the size of the Horse needed!

Thats the brunt of the whole yard??? ..... please tell me to you got another 10 acres to do out back! That size wouldn't even get my horses warmed up!

Hello all, im new to the site but wanted to post pics of what i got my hands on today. I need some help identifying one of them. The one according to the tag is a 655 the other is a commando 6 but the one with the homemade hood i dont know what it is. The only number i can find is a serial number 6920 or maybe 6929 ill post a pic you guys tell me what ya think.

I would like to wish all of you Good Friday and a Happy Easter. Its going to be a nice day here in NE Ohio . Since I am fortunate to have a job that gives me Good Friday off with pay, My Dad and I are going down to the tractor salvage yard to look for a few things. It doesnt get any better than this.

God Bless you all this Easter!

You may have seen my Wheel Horse Farm Toy Sets in the archives. I have had an Ebay search going on for several years to find the matching one year only, #7000 1964 Nylint Lawn and Garden Service Toy Set Truck and Trailer. Well it finally paid off! I only had to outbid one Nylint Toy Collector, not a Wheel Horse Collector thankfully! So I got it for $150.00 give or take a few bucks. I have 3 complete sets of the 1961 Wheel Horse Toy Sets from Auburn, so I put one complete set of toys in with the truck and trailer to make a very nice set! Schwing! The tractor is a 1961 Model #551. Nice amount of details on these little tractors, check out the drive belt guard, mower deck wheels and recoil starter! 2 of the toys sets have their original plastic bag that they came in! I had another set of toys but I gave it to my WH collecting buddy Packrat!.....KJ

Just thought I'd update this thread. I finally decided to contact buckrancher. He said "send it to me". So I did. I don't know how he does the things he does, but here is the result: Thanks again for all the suggestions, and many thanks to Brian.

Yep, that HH120 is the first WH I bought. It did all the mowing and snow blowing for about 15 years before I got the 2nd, 3rd......11nth 12th etc. It has never failed to start and runs strong. You should know Richard..... Just a 20' right of way between the fields to the woodlot where I hunt deer. My neighbor uses it to walk her dog, so I keep it mowed. It's about 500 yds to the house. Bout 6 hrs of seat time today Jack. That's the infamous "Mad Max" monster I made from a walk behind tiller. It really works great for working the beds close to the buildings.

Build a bigger garage , one that you can sleep in if the number of becomes a daily topic of discussion.

No cat sightings yet, are you sure you have a cat? Here are a few to hold me over until yours makes an appearance.

Amen &

@Lee1977 funny you say that, because when I stripped it back down, I thought I should cap those ends off. I have capped everything else and it looked unfinished. I don't really think putting gussets in place as well is necessary, however, as l'm building an 'industrial loader' and it won't take long you will get your upgrade. In reality I think the rear will be in the air or the tyres will fail long before that 5mm plate bends. After all the transmission is still bolted to the tractor frame in the normal way. Ok so it's 'seat box' time... first, two pieces of angle for the battery tray, done. I got a little carried away and forgot the pic's but none of this was rocket science, there are a few things to point out however. The seat hinging plate didn't come with the tractor when I bought it, I won it on upay. It was perfect for this application as I had to be able to fuel the loader/access/charge/change the battery. Not a lot of room but the battery will pass up through. The hight of the seat was important, l mounted it approximately 80mm higher than either of my other tractors, at the same time l planned on the foot rests to be much lower than a standard tractor. This was to provide legroom without adding length. The seatbox also had to be wide enough to allow the main drive belt to pass through inside it on the left side. It also had to be demountable for painting, l had made the subframe a bolt up item so the seat box was going to be the same. This is how I achieved it. I cut four pieces of angle and four small plates, drilled through them, bolted them up, placed them under the legs then welded the angles to the subframe on the inside. With that done, just weld the legs to the plates. Undo four bolts and the seatbox can be removed. Last picture tonight, showing the 19mm hinge bar and the cut away to allow the seat to fold up to the steering wheel without fouling. So there you go Dennis, hope your happy.

At least that's what I'm calling it til I get time to paint the chassis. It's a '66 106 with a '72 6 H.P. Tecumseh H60. Runs strong. Came with the original deck also. It was heading to the scrap yard a few months ago........ oh hell no!

For a couple seconds....I thought you lost it ,Bob. I was thinking (what does he need one of those for?) Then I remembered that your no longer living in Florida and instead in Indiana now. Goes to show what shift work will do to you..

I don't see why not, enlarge hole to 7/8" and press in a 7/8odx 3/4id oil lite bush. Drill a 1/8" hole down thru the bush for the grease.

When I built the SBC in my Malibu the only additive I used was in the oil (Risolone) to help with cam lobe break-in, 93 octane mixed with 110 octane racing fuel but my engine is 10.3-1CR iron headed solid roller forged flat tops and 'moly rings with a top RPM of 8500 and geared to spin at 3-3500 at 55-60 mph, if one built this without the hardened valve seats then yes you would need the lead substitute, but our little single and twins at 6-8.1 CR I don't think it's as harsh, Jeff

4-14-2017 5:30 AM 30 degrees. Ground firmed up enough to drive on.

The lead went out of gas in the late 70's. It was available but at select stations at least in my neck of the woods. The lead served to lubricate the valve guides and to slow down combustion. Since the small engines are low compression ( most around 6:00-1 ) you don't need to worry about its effects on anti knock. I would also not worry about your valve seats either. Also, since these engines aren't turning 6000-6500 RPM lesser octane gas is all you need. With respect to the 15% alcohol that will effect the carbs as it will work on the alloy and start it flaking off and clogging jets. The other problem will be the gaskets that weren't designed for the alcohol. I'm going to pull the caution flag out for a little while here. Be sure you don't use any additives when you've just finished rebuilding /re-ringing an engine until the rings have seated. The result of using SOME of these additives is the rings either won't seat or it will take a very long time t seat.

SIR, With a user name like that I'm guessing your someone high up.

We need some pictures! Condition and location has everything to do with price. If it's in excellent condition RUN HARD to get it and keep that mask on so your not identifiable.

From what I can find B80 was only made from 1974-1977. The 74-75 came with a 4 speed the 76- 77 was a 8 speed Someone could have put a 8 speed on your 75. I'm sure both trans would hook up the same. I have the 77 8 speed and it is a better trans I think

Hooked up my wheel horse cultivator on the 3/12 this afternoon. I had to take a carbide bit on the dremel to clean up the slot hitch. It was a bit peened over on some edges cleaned up nice and now slides in good. I put the bigger tires on yesterday with the wheel weights. I have to prep an area for seed at my sister in laws house and I've been looking for a reason to use it also made a new lift cable. I forgot I had ferrule crimps. Found them in a scrap metal haul years ago (along with a bunch of other nice USA made tools I kept). Hardly use them but work fantastic

A good score today. I got a very lightly used set of Brinly discs, a set of steel wheel weights, a Wheel Horse tongue hitch and a Kohler carb. I need everything I bought for projects going on.

Leos in Morrisville, a long way from you, is a Toro dealer and several of the mechanics are Wheelhorse collectors. Thats a nice setup.

Wear on the shaft is a definite concern if you run steel to steel.If you plan on putting a bronze bushing in the support block it will help.One down side is that the bronze bushing might allow grit to become imbedded and accelerate shaft wear.Since the block will need to be bored it may be better to make the bronze bushing a press fit on the shaft and bore the block for a slip fit for the bushing.This would eliminate shaft wear and the block would become the sacrificial part.Just a thought.Luck,JAinVa

Well my new block finally arrived. Broke the old one trying to re tap the grease cert that PO busted out with the lift arm hitting against it. New one is steel and not die cast like the original. I hope it doesnt make a difference. I also left it as a full block and not stepped down as original cause as you can see there isn't really very much meat there where it broke. I will try it and see what happens, heck it didn't cost me anything to have it made due to my brother. Lol! Has anyone else have to re-make one?

@WHX11, oh a lil bit north of $6k in parts and machining, all the hard labor done by me so if she blows it's all my fault I guess tackling an Onan after that would be a cake walk @ACman, believe it or not after 4 years I've only put 20-25 miles on that beast, between work, kids, elderly parents and life in general really haven't had the time to fully tune and finish it up, and the Camaro is my buddy's where I put the engine together, oh and I know we like the burnout emoji so how about a pic of testing then we shall get back on topic , Jeff.

Well that makes a lot of since, I wish I would have thought of that I'll check if we can still do that. I really rather have an original cast piece but oh well.

I would like the grease fitting on the left side, please.

Jonsered 630 super. Bolts tight, and no cracks.

That mill looks like it = lots of $$ Jeffrey!

Is that an older Dolmar saw hiding amongst the wood? Jeff.

I would want that new block to be drilled out and a brass bushing installed. Better to wear that than the steering shaft itself. Other than that it looks great. I made one up myself to replace a broken one. Cleat

Good point, I always add a few ounces of https://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives/engine-break-in-oil-additive-tb-zinc-plus to every oil change in every vehicle to boost the ZDDP levels.

I beg to differ Richard .... as @stevasaurus always says Thursday is the best day...a little more relaxed and get a chance to unwind after a long haul! Plus you get to see what others are haulin in. One thing I would like to warn all BS newbies tho is Saturday early afternoon is everyone clears out real quick and the show is pretty much over. Like other tractor show we go to it runs into Sunday and everyone clears out late Sun. afternoon. I wanted it to go for another week! Its a fairgrounds useage thing I've been told by the WHCC guys so I get it. I wanted it to go o for another week!...... Did I say that already??

I had a nice set of 4 tires off a donor tractor. The fronts went on my work horse project, that tractor has the wide 8.5" wheels and new rubber so I had a spare set of rears. Decided to leave the chains on my 8.50" Firestone Terragrips and swap the 10.5" turf-savers on for the summer, I did put the cast iron back on. Just a shot of the difference. Barely notice in the picture but can tell in person It's the picture. I didn't take it straight on

Interesting thread ther Jeff ... I don't think the no lead thing has a big impact on our Kohlers. I have run cheap ethanol laden gas in a few of my horses for years and the one I have on the bench now shows no ill effects on the valves. In fact they look pretty good One does have to wonder if this might contribute to valve issues in the Onan's?? Is there even a lead substitute additive even availailable these days? I am thinging the the lead change thing happened in the 70's @Brian1054 ??? Billy is right tho about we are what turning only 3600 rpms in our gems. But then again we got air cooled motors too right? ....Cept maybe for Billie's Dxi with the cat converter!

Good to know - I forgot that gt pumps also have the counter sunken holes this is what I do for the pumps with the #5 ends on the pump (see picture) and had no issues. @BigRedGrizzly if you would like I will send you out another set with the correction ( because it was my fault that I forgot)

Haven't had to make one yet but I thought I was going have to.The zerk was missing on one of mine and the casting is real thin.There were no threads to put a new one in.I was puzzled until I realized that the zerk on this part is pressed in.Your new part looks great.If your brother is like most machinists, to him it is a simple part, that most will marvel at.Nice work! Luck,JAinVA

I was able to visit Pearl Harbor last week (we were in Maui for my sister in-law's wedding) and seeing the Mighty Mo, Hangar 79, and the humble Arizona Memorial really brought a lot of life's history lessons into perspective. While on the USS Missouri the guide to our tour said it would cost something like (can't quote me) $400-800 million to bring a battleship back into service again... not to mention the cost of doing business with old (yet impressive) technology. He also talked about the movie that came out and how cheesy it might have been, the pride of so many to see Mo sailing out of the harbor. It was a great trip.

And gas 6bg?? does it smoke a little more? Probably wouldn't make some of my Kohlers smoke anymore than they do now! Reminds me of premix for 2 strokes! Are we just talking say maybe an once in the average 1.5- 2 gallon front of dash horse tank? I was never a big believer in any gas or oil treatment or any of these so called "tune ups in a can". Felt that regular oil changes and clean proper fuel was the best & overhaul when they get noisy & smoky. So I bought a new Husky weed wacker last summer and was offered to buy three cans of the bottled 90+ octane pre-mix gas at around 7 a quart can. Warranty would go up to five years so kinda of a no brainer. Grabbed a can once to put in the old POS weed wacker and made a big difference in how it ran. Tried it in a chainsaw just for grins and again a huge difference. Much easier to start the finicky two strokes. If you ever whiff the stuff it doesn't even smell like gas. More like some kind of solvent for lack of a better description. Stuff is supposed to have a shelf life of 5 years. Starting to change my tune about fuel additives/alternatives now. Now I see it all over wallyworlds & the rest of the big boxes & power shops in both 40 and 50/1 mixes at anywhere from 5 to 10 bucks a can. Is this what you are talking about Tuna? Looks like one bottle does quite abit of gas. I suppose for that price it won't hurt to try but I noticed it doesn't say anything about being a octane booster? http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/star-tron-enzyme-fuel-treatment-8-oz?cm_mmc%3DSEM-_-Google-_-DynamicAdGroups-_-AllSiteTSCCirc1705&gclid=CjwKEAjwoLfHBRD_jLW93remyAQSJABIygGptiev0OvDx1TFEi4C6C2_J4z-qpfKSGwnmz41Tjvk2hoCzOfw_wcB

Same goes with transmission flushing, if you do it at say 25-30k miles from new and continue to maintain that schedule with a 50k filter change that's acceptable but if you don't service the tranny till say 100k with a flush, you've basically bought yourself a new or rebuilt tranny, have a buddy in a GM service department seen this time and again from AAMCO near them, Jeff.