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Just picked up this 417-8. Plan on tearing it down, cleaning it up, and painting it.

I was going to add something to this thread........................but I forgot what it was. It was important too...dang it.

Well as some of you know this is my last true build form the frame up. I hope you enjoy the video.

Wait until you guys hit the late 60's , you make notes on stuff lose the notes , walk in to your work shop and have not idea of what you wanted to or why and my all time favorite ( it happens a lot ) write down a list of things you need to buy , walk into where you are shopping , can not find the list. Buy a bunch of stuff which you hope was on the list. Get the "stare " about losing the list only to find it 3 hours later in your shirt pocket.

Now that I'm able to post more pics, here are some from the sickle I did last month.

Finally got a new shed! Thanks to T-Mo, who posted about his shed, I went with the same company. Derksen sheds. http://www.derksenbuildings.com/ I bought a 12'x24' side lofted building with 8' walls. I thought a was getting a color close to my shop, but I see I really need to paint the shop now. Here is another pic or 2. Ya, its been raining! Can't wait till it dries up and I can fix the grass I tore up and get things in order. I looks pretty crappy right now, but it will get better soon. Randy

So last year I bought a transmission for my dads 502 from a guy on facebook. Afterwords i needed a hitch for it. I knew we had one. Problem is where was it we have 4 sheds where it could be and 2 leantos. I cleaned out one shed a bit and nothing and i could of swore thats where it was. i hunted for 2 weeks for it. and i gave up looking for it. well this past weekend i was redoing my sheds floor so i wanted to organize my shed. so i thought well ill pull 2 cabinates out of parts shed. unloading the one cabinat look what i found. i went through that cabinat over and over thing was i didnt pull out gas tanks. it was behind them lol. now dads 502 will have both hitches on it.

not sure why but pics I have shrink real low but anyway the ornament is off from a 1962 mercury monterey

That's when you leave and go back to the house, remember what it was, go back out to the shed and forget what it was you went out there for because you got sidetracked on the way.

Got the 753 running this evening, I didn't get it driving yet because I have to get a belt guard and gear oil but the engine runs great, started up third pull and idles very clean.

Well from those two pictures someone's on the right lines, a little more detail and I'll share, are farmers really that black and white? when I took the pics I wasn't thinking about what was in the background, so l have to jump about a bit..you lot with your sharp eyes. Here's a few more, l'm pretty sure there are big enough clues to give it away....

When I have issues like, I usually find what ever it was after I buy a different one.

Happens to me too, will find what I was looking for 3 days later while looking for something else, I chalk it up to a sub-paragraph of Murphy's Law... The lost item loop.

If you have a way to check battery voltage, see how far the volts are dropping when you try to start the engine. If they drop below 10v, your battery is probably bad. It could also be a bad connection some place. Clean all of the connections between the battery and the starter ( including any switches & relays )and make sure that they are all tight.

Dennis, To your point, yes all batteries degrade with time, it's inevitable. One of the keys to long battery life is keep the battery as close as possible to it's recommended float voltage, for the sake of this discussion a flooded lead acid battery would have a float voltage of 13.4 volts, and avoiding extended discharges below 12.6 volts, the point at which sulfation begins. In the case of leaving the key on, I think I can safely say that we have all done it. If it's been left on all winter you will probably never recover the capacity of the battery due to sulfate crystallization (hard sulfation). If left on overnight a trickle charge over the course of several days will usually bring it back to life. On a side note, battery tenders are not created equal, you usually get what you pay for, do your research before laying down your hard earned money. Another topic is "smart chargers", most of which will not charge a discharged battery. This is when it's nice to have an analog 1 amp battery charger to raise the voltage to the point that the "smart charger" recognizes the battery and completes the charge. I personally use an old Schumacher 2-10-50 charger to which I've added filter capacitors and a 35 amp 15kHz pulse width modulator on the output but that is another story. Sorry for the rambling and hope some of this info is helpful.

I agree as I used to be in the Bigger-is-Better bandwagon for battery CCA. But I have found that the key is using a battery tender to maintain the charge and not allow the sulfation to deteriorate the plates. A good battery tender may cost as much as a battery but is amortized over the years. I have also found a solar panel that is sold to charge batteries to be beneficial for the tractors outside. But you do need to get the correct recommended size as a twin requires a larger battery than a single.

Nice stable. And it is great you got pictures of the floor....once those horses start to breed, you may never see the floor again.

I know it's not high tech Duke, but here is my REDNECK heater. It does keep the cab (measured at the windshield) 30-35 degrees above outside temp. The right leg is a few clicks warmer.

YIIIKES!!! Oh well, at least you are an equal opportunity collector. And we all love collectors because most of us are. Jim

Nope ... whole tractor is shot .....I better come get it... Naww just kidding ! Sparkeye's got it

UUUHHHMMM....There's this thing about green and yellow tractors on this site...you're gonna need to provide some kinda protective glasses for us if you keep showing pictures of that stuff... Red, black and white are acceptable colors for tractors among refined WH gentlemen (and ladies)...

Welllll seems my problem was a bad torque wrench. Got me another and everything goes together well and torqued to spec. Just hoping my over torque didn't damage anything. Thanks for every ones input. As usual this is the best site for WH info AND expertise. Thanks guys.

i do that already. i even forget what i am doing ill walk intro shed and ask myself why did i come in here again lol

Is a 1962 Suburban 400 right? shouldn't the model be 402 ?

" D O N ' T F O R G E T T O D R I N K Y O U R O V A L T I N E " !

Ahh yes, organized chaos. Sounds a lil like my shop. Sept I can't always remember.

With any electrical problem you should start by cleaning and tightening all electrical connections including grounds. If this didn't change your results then have the battery load tested.

The farmer across the road from my parent's farm had a workshop that was a sight to behold, everything was a mess. On occasion I would need to barrow something and he would pick it out of the clutter without hesitation; when I returned it he would toss it wherever it landed. You could go back a month later and ask Bob for that item and he would retrieve it as if he had cataloged the location in his mind; perhaps he had!

Tis a small world Jeff. My Mother still lives in Cumberland today. After high school, I started my college studies at the WVU local campus in Keyser WVa. While still living in Wellersburg, Pa, at the time, I commuted thru Cumberland, Md. to Keyser, WVa. every day ....about 20 mile. When I was about 10 years old, we built a new stone home about half way up the mountain above Wellersburg where I experienced many runaway truck accidents. Our house was right at the drivers decision point ....ditch the truck or try to ride it out to the bottom. The experienced ones bailed out and ditched the truck into the woods. One of the more memorable ones involved a Heinz Food truck from Pittsburg. My dad was a scavenger and we had a pantry full of all 57 varieties of mustard, ketchup, and pickle relish that lasted for years.

The red/geen felts are nice in that I am sure which terminal I am putting the charger on. Tthe cast in black + and - on the case are getting harder to see

It was prolly the RUSSIANS!

Terminal grease works great!

Jim, I use them on my top post car batteries but not the garden tractor batteries, it does help and also the terminal grease or dielectric grease on the actual connections helps keep the corrosion at bay, Jeff.

Nope, made my own!

Just my opinion, but if you're going to do the conversion to battery/points ignition, you should upgrade to the 15 amp stator and regulator. Used stators and regulators are easy to find and not that expensive. The 15 amp system will give you more capacity if adding additional electrical components to the tractor at a later date.

That is indeed the thread 953nut is referencing. The relative scarcity of the breakerless parts will leave you most likely spending same or more than you would for conversion. Although there are proponents on the forum for using the original set up. But the electronic parts even if found new are very old. That era electronics was not as robust as today's designs. Spontaneous or arbitrary failure is very real possibility. Just depends on what you want out of the tractor once it's running.

Time to tighten the tension on the pto lever....but before you do that I would pull the clutch bell and check it and the clutch face for scoring, then give the inside a smear of hi speed bearing grease and re-assemble. Mike....

Wish i could say its my first tractor but....

Not to sound like an idiot, but the choke is fully open ? Just trying to think of what you could have bumped or moved doing the work you did assuming it ran properly before. Make sure everything is plugged in properly and the condenser is hooked up. Could the spark ring possibly have moved after it ran a while ? (check with timing light). Any time I had a 520 do that it was the carb needing cleaning, just seems odd that your started after other work was done to it. Cleat

lol yup

It was a HF. I've used pittsburg tools for years and this particular wrench for over 3 years with no issues. Why it failed I don't know. HF tools have a lifetime warranty. Took it back and got a new one. I've had 2 craftsman ratchets fail but I still buy craftsman tools. Stuff happens.

You might have to consider leaving 1/5th turn alone.. While they can be rebuilt, to get to it is a nightmare. As frederi mentioned with the rear PTO on yours either it will have to be removed - which is a bit## or all of the dash tower removed which is also a ##itch (I've never tried the dash method, but could probably be done) just to get to the column. Actually repair of it once on the bench is relatively straight forward and inexpensive. As mentioned its a "Ross" unit - do a search here and on google and you can find all sorts of info on them. 1/5 turn probably isnt all that bad. even when rebuilt it will still have a bit of slop - 1/8-1/4 or so turn is common.

I ran a new ground from the switch to the frame and now it works perfect. Thanks for all the help. Randy

The options is yours as what you decide to do. However if you test your ignition system and it is good, at least for now it will allow you to run it and see if there are any other issues with that engine.. If you decide to keep that ignition system, then #1 make sure that you use insulated connectors at rectifier and those connections are tight and secure never touching each other. #2 -- Stator is usually what goes and the most difficult part to get. However a little not much known fact is that that same stator is also used on other size engines like a K-181 just with a different part #. Your flywheel has an aluminum adapter to use that stator which has a smaller circumference that a regular 15 Amp stator. The one for the K181 shows up more often and goes for much less money many times the same as a regular one many times NOS. As a precaution I would have a spare on hand if you want to keep that system. Like everything else these things are easier to find when you don't really need them.

Very nice shed, Randy. Derksen was great to work with, and the guy who deliver mine and set it up, was great also. He was talkative, but can't blame him once he saw my 551, my 702, and my JD 110 RF. And you will fill up quicker than you think to the point you will probably start to think, I should have went with a bigger size. Sheds, garages, and trailers are never big enough.

A discolored wire is cause for concern. Either the wire to terminal is not making a clean tight connection or the terminal to terminal connection is not clean and tight. Any resistance to current flow causes heat. Garry

Taking a better look at your first photo, I see wires in a "jacket"?? Those may be the ones coming from flywheel. Its usually how they are. Just get rid of that rectifier and insulate all of those three wires for now if you are not sure. One of them should go to the switch. It does not look like they are placed correctly on that rectifier. Usually the wires from stator go on terminals adjacent to each other.

That..... is a serious looking machine, a well matched up unit. Wonder if front spindles have been beefed up, and can anybody tell me why some loaders have the valve controls on the left?.... Is it an easier plumbing route? Nice machine to have in the barn!

On the breaker less ignition, there should be Three wires coming from stator. Two of those wires go to the rectifier( usually light green?) the other to the trigger( Black). You will not see that one. I am not sure but I think that your rectifier is on your first photo. Its missing cover.Not good! Two of those wires should come from under flywheel (blue ones?????) don't short them there, that is usually where it happens. For now I would just remove them from there and insulate ends. You don't need those to start tractor. They are only to charge battery and put out AC .You have a 10 AMP system. You should get a hold of the wiring schematic for that tractor so you know what is what and where it goes. 1969 but I think correct wiring diagram Then I would get rid of all existing wiring, except for that red wire going to bottom of coil. That one is coming from trigger and its needed there. If there is another one spliced to it leave it for now.It may be coming from switch and it would be the one that grounds magneto to shut it off.Now "jump" the starter to crank engine to see if you have spark. That system is self energizing, no battery power needed to run. If you get spark then all parts of system , stator,coil,trigger should be OK. I would then just rewire the whole tractor so there are no more surprises or doubts.

Who do I not want to stay in the same hotel with ????? Other than @Squawk I heard to stay away from his hotel or was that a lie. I'll bet he is fun and a really nice guy.