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Went out on a Habitat For Humanities job today. Following the prejob briefing and devotion our office manager hand us a box of goodies to take with us. Should have known something was up, she has never done that before.

So after the sickle bar install, I realize that the tractor doesn't look right with those led headlights, considering it's a 1967. So I ordered up a pair of vintage looking chrome ones. I think it makes the ol girl complete. I just didn't dig the leds. And honestly, they're brighter than the leds as well.

Graded and leveled off some crushed concrete in my driveway today. 1054 handled the job with ease.

Hello I have just inherited probably 50-75 old Horses of all sizes. Being a Deere guy myself, I'm wondering where to start. Thanks

The war department said the b 80 was the last but I just couldn't let this one go. It has definitely put me in the dog house. The lady I got it from, got it from the original owner about a year ago. She said it was too big for her now and was looking for a smaller one. So I traded a little Craftsman rear engine rider for it. Who the hell would pass that up.

With the sprayer mounted on the back and filled I had to put on the weight hanger Jeff (WVHillbilly520H) made for my 161 Twin. The twin has a long snout so he had to extend his design. I think it looks pretty good on the short hood too. Please excuse the mess from our wood pile.

before I go crazy on any wheel I lock the steering shaft with a pipe wench and steer the wheel trying to get the wheel to turn on the shaft. I try both directions, when that fails bring out the big gun puller.

Heavy, wet, April fools snow. Not happy about it either. Had to go to work to clean up the campus, then scrape mine. I didn't bother using the3/15 with the 44" blower, all the equipment at work clogged so I had my fill of that. Tractor worked well, did notice some belt slippage? In high range none in low and I was pushing a full deep blade up hill. I'll check the belt and hubs, prob due for a new belt anyway. As always fun to use!

I kinda thought about that. Funny thing is I took both apart to make sure the ground wires were right against the housing. Never thought about turning the glass lol. This is what I'm doing with the leds. They hide quite nicely. Gotta wire them at some point.

WD 40 won't do a thing, PB Blaster has been my go to penatrent for years. If you can drill a few small holes between the shaft and hub it could help too. One other thing I have done that worked was to heat the shaft below the wheel with a torch until nearly red hot, this heat will migrate up the shaft and break the rust grip and help the PB work in between the shaft and hub. Do this outdoors, hot PB smells real bad.

The lady I got it from said that the lady SHE got it from has the blade and wheel weights as well. So far out here going through it I can tell it hasn't seen water in years. I've cleaned an inch of caked on debris out just around the carb/intake alone. They've removed all the heat shields and muffler guard but it all came with the tractor. The hydro gears seem to be in good working order and the hydro deck lift if pretty snappy too. The battery tower that the hood rests on seems to be missing something or the hood is twisted because it hangs to low over the dash...The tie rods will need to be replaced at some point as well....All in all though seems to be in decent shape.

It does need some work, I think carb could use some cleaning and a tune up maybe. It needed a new battery, wouldn't hold a charge. Rear seal leaking a little, and a safety switch on seat is causing a running problem I believe. Just getting started on inspecting it. Changed oil and put new battery in it. Don't want to put much money in it till I make sure it runs and drives around ok. Then I will look into fixing broke frame. I only gave $100 for it so I know I'm not hurt, too many good things on it. The farmer owned it since new and now with all the issues he just bought another new one and wanted to get rid of this one. If I didn't want it he was gona junk it. I was happy to help him out.

I got the new key switch from OldRider and it worked perfectly. I got the GT-14 all back and wired right. I removed the wires to the accessories and lights because they were all shot. I'll add them back later. But, after getting the tractor started, i put the chains on and plowed out the driveway. For some reason, my camera was not cooperating at all and the pictures were the worst I have ever taken. Sorry for that, I only discovered it after I had put everything away. Anyway, here is the beast in question, with the plowed (and possibly graded) driveway. In terms of the hydraulic lift handle, I discovered that in full detent, the edge of the knob would be below the height of the console plate. It must be either worn, or when they replaced the hoses in the past (I have an old invoice for it) maybe they attached the valve at a bad angle? Anyway, I thing the solution will be to take the level out and bend it up slightly improve the clearance for the short term. I am not ready to dig into the valve yet.

Dino, did you happen to use "stone age" or "cave drawings" in your search?

I just got lucky! I found a place that sells .020 undersize rods part number 397158 for 34.99 plus 7.99 shipping now I can get the crankshaft ground for the new rod. They also have new crankshafts,like the one I have part number 394430, they have the replacement number 690639 for 228.19 +9.99 shipping. These are after market parts.They sell all kinds of lawn tractor parts.Here's the web site www.russopower.com they are located in Illinois.Thanks to all you guys for the GREAT ideas and response,these forums are Great!!

I have resorted to cutting the shaft so I could put it in a press to push the shaft out. Then reweld the shaft. I have gotten some off by removing the entire tower and sliding the locking thrust ring down so I could pull the shaft up high enough that I could put the wheel above the jaws of a big vise for support. Then drive the shaft out with a large drift and a BFH. Good luck and if you have time, you may want to soak it with PB Blaster for a week first. Here are some ideas...some good and some not so good if you want to save the wheel. Good luck.

Ohhhhh many many times Bob...my sence of humor somehow always gets in the way tho, thats why Richie and I get along so well. Don't worry about Mike's thread ... he got paid when I was out in the shop in my bed clothes measuring his generator ght! By the way I sleep in the buff...I know I know ...

I had this piece of slate that I picked up about 3 years ago at the quarry on our camp in Potter Co. I had good intensions of making a Pa shaped stone sign. Well, today was a cold rainy day and both my WH projects in my heated shop were finished, so out came the slate. This was my first attempt at stone cutting and carving so I proceeded with caution and drilled a lot of holes with the masonry bit at the critical locations. Now you geography purists will probably notice ...Philadelphia is missing. I wanted to use as much of the stone as possible, and after stepping a map down to scale to fit the stone, I had to sacrifice a corner. Sorry Philly Fans, but you had to go. I still need to grind the edges, but that is too dust to do inside. Then I could use some advice on the lettering. I could drill a series of dimples, or use the router, but an not sure if a carbide bit would cut the slate or if the dust would kill the router motor. ????

One went out, one came in, you shouldn't be in the dog house for that.

The 1969 Charger 10 that I picked up this past winter is now back to work, equipped with a crane, winch, and quick-attach weight box.

That was my justification for buying a GT-14 with front end loader, the wife fell for it.

I have used it to move some logs the size of the one in the picture. I built it to lift the things that I should not be lifting, and my back thanks me!

With the later 1990+ 520, you leave the hood stand bolted in place and remove the dash. Hardest part of that job is removing all the wiring from the gauges. Begin by getting the battery out of the way then make note of where all the wires go before removing them. Throttle and choke cables need to be removed as well. Ignition switch simply unplugs. Hose to vacuum gauge needs to be pulled off (that is fairly tight). 2 small screws behind idiot light panel removes it then you can unplug the headlight switch. At that point, you can pull the dash and steering shaft as a unit then clamp the shaft in a solid vice and attempt to twist the wheel free. When reassembling, use never seize to this will never be a problem again. With everything apart, you can now replace any loose bushings, clean up wire connections etc to improve reliability of this fine machine. Cleat

now we are getting somewhere. the pictures of these ^ kits are actually matching the parts laying in front of me. i suppose its time to place an order. thanks guys!

HH100 carb is 631157 number changed to 631564 (Walbro LME-37) The repair kit is 32256A

Here it is. The struts are attached to the hitch block by a Grade 8 hitch pin, and it is all held up by 5/16" steel cable. There are several 7/16" grade 8 bolts going through the struts for hanging the pulley for varying the height of the lift. I can remove it by simply loosening the clamps on the steel cable, pulling the hitch pin, and disconnecting the winch from the battery.

I knew this would get ugly......I should have flipped the slate over and left Erie off the map.

OK Philly, Sixer and Eagle fans, please send your comments directly to Mike via PM @squonk or by snail mail to Waterloo, NY. I am sure the Waterloo mailman will know him.

I love that older style hood on these tractors , I have been looking for one of those for ages , nice tractor , enjoy

It handles great with the weight up front. The sprayer actually is about 10" lower than it should be with the boomless nozzle it uses so it would have better coverage if it was a little higher. It covers about a 10' swath at this height. It is supposed to cover 14' at the higher height. Also, the horizontal distance from the tractor affects the weight distribution. The height should not. Jeff, Love that clevis hitch platform. Craig

With the warmer temps the past several days I've had a chance to warm the engine up a few times and today I checked the torque on the head bolts, I've also replaced the bad volt meter and got the foot pedal linkage adjusted properly, the more I drive this thing, the more I like it. I might have to stick a deck under it this spring so I can get some seat time. For now, this project is done.

Well this is the last post for this 314-8. When I picked it up it had 3 flat tires from sitting in a storage unit for 2 or more years. The PO didn't do upkeep so when I got it I had to go through it to see what it needed. First thing was charge battery (I DID PUT A NEW ONE ON LAST WEEK) Change oil and filter New plug Cleaned the mouse nest and dust off Checked all the wires and switches New tires front and rear New seat switch Grease all fittings Rebuilt carburetor AND THE DECK ( near new) Changed all the 6203 all 6 bearings New belt 94-2501( toro) deck to pto The steering is like a new mower it is tight and easy to steer. So that 200.00 tractor is now a $450.00 wheel horse Tried the mower and it's smooth and quiet the blades are like new. Next is the plow bracket and my wheel weights to put on. And I forgot to put the plastic belt cover back on for testing.

There are a couple Panzers in the lot

Put a battery in and filled the Raiders fuel tank. It took a little cranking , but he fired right up and was ready to work. I like my hydros, but for the roller duty, I prefer the gear drive. They don't increase speed like the hydros when you have a load pushing down hill. The humps flattened out pretty well after the 2" rain yesterday.

Remove the gas line to the carb and crank the engine does gas spurt out? If not we work backwards if it does problem is in the carb we work forward.

The big blocks used a different linkage than the 8hp There is a rock shaft on the air shroud, throttle cable goes on the bottom. Fixed link on the top goes to an arm mounted on the front of the block. There is a stop that limits the arms travel (high speed limit). The arm is connected to the governor arm by a spring then the governor arm to the carb by a fixed link

Awesome. Thank you sir!

Growing up my friends dad made granite headstones. He covered the polished stone with a rubber sheeting like gasket material. Maybe 1/16 or 3/32 thick. I'm not sure what king of glue he used then he would lay his design drawn on paper on it and hand cut it out with a razor knife. He made intricate do designs by blasting area the covering part of the blasted area with rubber sheet and blasting the remaining uncovered area deeper. I remember a strong solvent smell when he cleaned the rubber/glue off, probable lacquer or acetone thinner. For blast/carving the hard granite he blasted with steel shot that was recycled. With slate being much softer I would think any regular grit would work. I'm thinking you could take a scrap. Give it a couple of coats of floor wax the use sheet rubber or paint on several coats of that plasticote tool dip stuff keep us informed, good luck

I think you got a nice tractor there that looks very restoreable. If the guy was going to scrap it , he must have more money than brains.

Way cool! Love the crane! How about a close up pic or two of how it attaches to the tractor?

How about having the crank ground, the rod bored enough to have a white metal, (Babbit) insert poured in and machined. Older engines used to have the big ends done like this, Ford V8 flathead. YouTube has videos of the process. Look for Keith Fenner.

Upon inspection, after disassembling the hydro motor, I noticed that the valve plate and the slippers were worn and scratched. I had disassembled another motor from a parts tractor I had, and the valve plate was much better; however, I did not use an arbor press to remove the shaft and the method I used damaged the back side of the valve plate. This was very unfortunate as it could have been reconditioned and reused. I also had a motor from a D-180 that I am parting out, so I decided to have a go at disassembling it and inspecting the valve plate and slippers. Well, I could hardly believe what I saw... to be continued! No, it was impeccable and the slippers were not only scratch free, they had really sharp edges on them, no rounding at all. I also was able to salvage a perfect "O"-Ring for the bearing to cover plate and one for the shaft. I still have a bit of cleaning to do to the parts and some inspecting of the valves then it should be ready to begin reassembly. I have not taken any pictures yet but I may try to get some and post them in the next update.

I've had many parts welded up and remachined, including crankshafts. Had no problems with them, as long as the machine shop can grind it, I would give it a try.

I may donate that umbrella to the collector club to raffle off. It sure seems popular!

Craig, other than the black hood was a bit over extended I figured that hanger would be pretty much universal, and looks darn good on the 314, maybe you need one of these now goes on the clevis hitch you can raise and lower it and yep I built that too, Jeff.

I had forgotten that the throttle lever was loose and wouldn't hold the engine at a steady rpm so I replaced the rivet that holds it together with a fine threaded bolt and lock nut and have got that tightened down, now it holds at a steady rpm. I've also discovered that my volt meter is bad so I'm gonna need to find a replacement for that. I finished up putting the decals on and also decided to spray a clear coat over the Argent silver paint on the rims, what a difference that made. I used Rustoleum Crystal Clear and really like how the paint shines now.

The last few days I've got a little more done on this 520, I got new bearings and a seal put in the PTO and got it back on. I've also got the tins buffed out, the footrest pads glued on, the black on the front of the hood repainted and got those mounted and have started putting the new decals on. Now to get those rear rims blasted and painted.