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Actually, that is for watering the corn row you just planted. You can always tell when a union plumber got paid by the piece.

The mere mention of those words have sent grown men scurrying to that popular auction site for sightings but I have found a real nice one here on another popular site for hunting for horses........enjoy! Well maybe not THEE original shower head ..... @wheelhorseman1000

So I finished my 525exi to a point I could just use it and I got excited, I was finally to a point I could go get my next project. I started riding on this C-105 before I was 1, drove it on my dad's lap for many years then got to drive it myself for probably 15 years. My dad and I liked it, but never really thought it was anything special. To me it was just the old tractor. I used and abused it (but we did ALWAYS store it inside). My dad bought it in 1988 from the original owner (apparently a wheel horse mechanic, it was pristine). My dad used it to do the finish grading all around my parents house that he built. It plowed their 150' driveway and cut their grass with a 42" deck for many years after that. The old girl blew an engine at one point and my dad took it to get rebuilt. It ran really well at that point for a few more years, then about 2005 or so it started making a real racket and was parked. We had no idea about Wheel Horse's then, It was terrible at pushing snow (we never knew about weights!) and it was slow to cut the grass (never new they made a hydro or a 48" deck!) so we gave up on reviving her again and went shopping for a new one.He settled on a new Deere. At one point he wanted to get rid of the old red tractor, but something in me just wouldn't let him. I told him to keep it for me and I would get a new engine for it and use it when I got a place. Fast forward 10 years and I now have been living in my own place for almost 5 years and been playing with wheel horses for 4 of them. I never got around to picking up my trusty old C-105 till now.

I started tearing into it today. I have a rebuilt K-341 with 0 hours that is just about ready to drop into it. I just need a few small things finished up before I am ready to run it! Its amazing, we have never once changed the gear oil, it was still yellow after 30 years of use. We have also not once changed the drive belt, and after at least 30 years I have inspected it and i dont even need to replace it. Its in great shape. I got the old engine out, and the only thing that was wrong was that the rod cap bolts were loose. Which kills me as if I had immediately shut down the engine instead of driving it back to the garage, I probably could have just tightened them up and fired her right back up. There seems to be too much damage to the rod bearing surface, the crank seems to be OK. Oh well, she will go on the shelf to be used if we ever go back to original. I wish I had taken pictures before buttoning it back up. The entire tractor is in great shape except for the paint which is OK and the front wheel bearings are totally shot. I hope the wheels can be saved and the spindles are ok. I dont think I will be doing anything else to here but fresh fluids all around with a new K341.

I hate to say it but kids today are not attuned to safety issues the way we were. These old tractors are probably not appropriate for kids today. Back in our day the gene pool got cleaned out occasionally by stupidity. Watching the old farmers in the area with injuries made us a bit more cautious. We knew things were dangerous. Now the kids have been protected by the CPSC etal for years and they do not pay attention

Well I got a good chunk of progress made. Just got to finish rebuilding the k91 I picked up for it. But I got the mount for the plow I picked up all fabricated. So all I got left to do is the decals, plow painting and build skis for plow, and mount motor and new rims and tires. But the plow is reversable by lifting blade, trip a lever and flip it. Pretty unique to me. The first three pics are the tractor and blade when I first got them. The original blade needs a good chunk of work. So I just set that to the side and put on the list of things to do.

It was time to clean up our wood pile from behind the house so we would have room for our mowing equipment so the 606 had to "spring" into action. IMG_4200.MOV

Gotta hang your coat somewhere. This way it can be "pre heated"!

Well yesterday I got my 520 Delivered which was nice, but even more so was my visit with Ken Member Chevelletown. We chatted and talked about Tractors and about everything under the Sun. (GREAT TIME) Here are some pics of Delivery and Visit. Thanks Ken. ~Duke

This cute wheel horse just came up for sale. The engine is a Tecumseh 5hp, and I think it is a suburban. The engine turns, but it doesn't run. This is the only pic so far. What other issues should I be concerned with? What is a decent price for a tractor in this shape? I wanted a round hood with a small engine for me and the kids. They don't surface very often around here.

Got my duals on my raider 8 tonight. I've missed them over the winter. Eventually I will probably flip the tires around to make it narrower.

I'm with Clay on this indeed a Suburban 550 that is a pretty nice one compared to many that I have seen that has been found. I would say if it ran I would try not give over $300.00 for it. A Nice Suburban 550 don't come up all that often. I live 12 miles from South Bend and I havent seen but a couple and they were crap compared to that one. A Tractor is worth what you want to spend for it. A Good friend of mine Ray Baker Suburban550 on here found one back in 1997 and restored it, and it runs like a TOP. The finished paint job shown does not do the Tractor Justice. This Tractor has the BEST PAINT JOB I have everseen on a tractor. You may be able to clean that up pretty nice and keep it original. Some are better left that way. As you can see by Ray's his needed some attention. Good luck with it if you get it let us know ~Duke

That is a 1960 Suburban ST550 with the 5.5 HP Lauson/Tecumseh engine with both electric start and recoil start....biggest thing is the engine...they can be good but quirky.

I love the creativity of others when it comes to exhaust configuration!!!

I saw Stevebo snag a real nice 60 inch deck at the Big Show for 250 bucks... Of course, we ARE talking about the original "NEGOTIATER" here folks so your negotiating skills may vary..... Glenn, I think your asking price was more than fair...

The plow is from a 1974 C-120

depending on the age and attention span of your children a could develop into a learning experience. You will need to supervise them when they begin doing anything that has the potential to injure children (or adults). The nut roasters have a bad habit of doing a wheelee if the clutch is let out too fast.

That is a Valuable Tractor with alot of history. You want to keep it original. Many guys on here would prefer Kohler engines but Lawson's aka Tecumseh engines were used on many models also. See if the engine has compression by pulling the starter plug in of course. Make sure you ck the oil in it and if it has been sitting may be a good Idea to take spark plug out and shoot some oil through spark plug hole in the Cylinder, then pull the rope a few times to ensure cylinder walls and rings get some oil on them. Re-tighten plug Then Put a little gas in it maybe a pint choke it and see if you can get it to Puff and start. Let us know how it goes. These tractors 1955 to 1964 are known as ROUNDHOOD'S and many have the engines in front of the seat and as Jim stated are known as ball burners or Nut Roasters.

Get the other part of the flaring tool and keep it, that's a good quality one. I've used those many, many times!

That's why they call them nut roasters.

That could be the record for the most fittings in the shortest distance. I am sure there is a reason behind it.

The first one is a wrench to use on plumbing fixtures where you can't reach with a normal wrench. For instance where water is attached to the faucet of a bathroom sink.

Here's betting... that plow moves some crazy snow.

I'm with Jim on the axle tubes. Just put in new bushings and you'll be good to go. I would look for some replacement gears. I may have what you need. I sent a differential out but I don't remember if it was for a 3 piece case or 2 piece. I had both. Unfortunately I won't be able to check for a while. We have everything packed in a semi trailer sitting in the driveway awaiting the trip back to Indiana.

On the differential bushings John mine were like that as well. Steve says put in new bushings and take the high points off the backside of the axle tubes with some crocus cloth so that's exactly what I did. My tractor is just goint to be for tub rides & shows anyway. On the diff gear yes they are quite worn & I would try to look for a donor transmission. If you can't find one maybe just smooth them out with a fine stone and run them but her working days would be over. By the looks of the rest of the tractor you might be using it for just play anyway. I would also guess you could shim that for clearance & will be looking forward to @stevasaurus input on your dilemma. I don't know if it will help but here is my resto on a three piece, tranny work starts on p 2 post 47 http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/57982-dennys-free-suburban-work/?page=2

The only thing that sounds better than a 16hp ONAN is a 20HP Onan. That's my story and I;m sticking to it!

So, I have all the general rebuild stuff on order and thought I would get a jump on getting things pulled apart, bearings removed, etc. Well, Murphy paid me a visit. I have several issues and I've been thinking about how to get them back to a like new or better condition all day. I have a few ideas, but I wanted to run my issues by those with experience first to see if there are some better solutions out there. Everything is apart minus the reverse idler and the shift forks and rails. So far I have 3 issues. 1) My bronze bearings were toast. No prob - easily replaceable. But the surfaces they were in contact with are also toast. I'll just flip the axles. But the bronze bearings that are inside the differential have chewed the outside of the axle tube up pretty bad. -Right Side -Left Side How can this be repaired? Or well, can it be repaired? I'm thinking either try to turn it down smooth and get bronze bearings with a smaller ID... maybe 1 5/16" instead of the 1 3/8". Or maybe replace the axle tubes.. which I'd really like to avoid. I strive to keep as much of this original as possible! Any ideas? 2) The mushroom end of the brake shaft gear had some alignment issues and chewed a nice little notch through the bearing and the bearing 'cup' for the cluster gear shaft on the right side plate. Has anyone ever seen this before? I'm thinking a simple shim or thrust washer for the brake shaft gear to move it over just enough to clear the new bearing I will be putting there. Does anyone have a thrust washer on the right side plate brake shaft gear? I do not, and this may be the issue. But if no one else has one there my adding one may cause some unwanted binding or misalignment of things. Not real sure. 3) I have some nice size chips and heavy wear on the diff gear and the smaller 8 tooth side of the brake shaft gear. I'm not sure what a worn out one of these should look like but this strikes me as needing some attention. Thoughts?

Okay, if we are all being honest, I will admit, the last hundred and fifty miles did feel a little "different" towing my wagon. But, hey! It's official! I have a "herd" now! The new to me 416-8, about 1987 vintage, was a little more worse for wear than I had counted on. The seller sort of recognized that and kicked back $100 for fix up. So I got the tractor, deck and dozer for $500. The engine was hard starting and needed half choke to run, but I am thinking that is just a dirty carb. It DID run smoothly, with a throaty twin cylinder growl! I am stoked for the manual transmission, to pull my fat bum up the hill with no complaining. The GT-14 hydraulics just didn't seem up to snuff. The deck purred very smoothly, and had no vibrations or rattles. Now that I see how the Attach-a-matic system works, I might be able to adapt it to the GT-14 if I don't buy a deck for it. The tires are shite, though, leaky, and don't set well on the rims. And there is electric gremlins, loose wires that sometimes keep it from starting. And, just like the GT-14, there are no brakes. There are supposed to be, but there aren't. So, I am optimistic, but a little disappointed it's not as turn-key as I wanted. It will be a race to see which one I can get ready for the spring for mowing. Man, I love the sound of that engine.......

Had my 876 out with the trailer to spread a little topsoil myself

Ed. I was on the road returning from Florida all day Saturday; Thanks for tagging me on this one. You could double your money easily!

Howdy gentlemen, I am the new owner of a c175. It came with snow blade, 48in deck and wheel weights. It needs all new belts and a few bearings on the deck. Only numbers I have found are on the engine and the deck. I have a picture of number on engine, deck has 3018 on a tag center rear of deck. I have searched for the serial number and cannot find it. I'm lookin for a manual or a good parts list to get her ready for mowing season. Any and all information is greatly appreciated. Keith

I'm not sure if the pawl is available. I know some guys have welded and reshaped the teeth. The seal should be available at NAPA.

Yep, pipe wrench for faucet work under a sink and 1/2 of the tubing flare tool. My collection of tubing tools. benders cutters flaring

Now that's a nice find. I was prepared and willing to go over what Duke suggested, and was probably right, for my 1960 400 but fortunately I didn't have to. They just aren't out there anymore. If you want it then by all means get it.

The 5 qts is based on a complete draining of the system. Unlikely you will ever get in a full 5 qts. Go with the dipstick. it takes forever to fill them. You can try loosening the filter or removing a bolt from the the top of the transaxle..or just be very patient and work slowly.

Backscratcher....

I've only got a 72/74 & 1980 Nbr 26 (12hp) Carbs, All have a measurement of 1 13/16" between horizontal hole centres- Without looking up a 60s engine number and searching the Parts Manual for a different Carb Part number, I would have to say as a guess that #26 Kohler Carbs are the same........unless it is not a Kohler Carb. I Think you are right to pull and replace with an unmolested one. Regards

You know Bob...you're right. My mistake, should read... note the Sr. behind the Sr.

Wait a Damn minute here......... Engine Model is 1955 I'm A 1957 So Craig You Are Two Years Off!

It's Called a Basin wrench. I bought one just to replace my kitchen faucet and yes , works good on bathroom faucets too. Though it's Hard on the back while using it..

Like this

A good 60" deck for a 520 with spring loaded mule drive should bring $600 every day.

Coming along nice Brandon. You'll love the extra power of that 341 that is for sure. With some cleaning, some touch ups and a little polishing I think the paint will look pretty good.

Great to see a getting some love from a second generation.

My C-105 says "HI" to her cousin! Just rebuilt mine this year - great tractor! Love the Black Hoods!

I had my 520-8 deck listed for 450, it ran perfect, no problems, spindals good etc. no rust or holes etc. and that was with the mule, the 520 takes a certain one I believe. But I sold the tractor with the deck. Hope this helps. And yes BIG & HEAVY. Glenn

I have had a bit of a jump in progress. One of my biggest hangups was the exhaust. The EFI muffler needed a little tail welded to it to get the exhaust out the hole in the side panel so I could put the hood back on. Finally got all that welded on and painted and exhaust wrapped. I used a different ignition switch as the one that came on it was flaky. This one doesnt have a position for lights, so they stay on all the time. I will add a separate switch for them later as that is how I like it better anyway. I also installed a digital hour meter/ tach for quick reference for service intervals monitoring. Still left on my to do: Make a new PTO spacer that is keyed and has flat sides to put a wrench on when working on pto. Headlight switch Check engine light wiring is a bit different than the oil pressure switch was.

I believe there are as many as 3 or more 60 inch decks. I think the D SERIES had a 60 inch deck or two. Woods style but I think maybe a belly deck too. The 520 style which is beastly heavy. And the C195 style which was licensed to wheel horse from Ariens. Like the 520 style the C195 decks command a strong price but buyers for 60 inch decks are less numerous. I like the C195 as it can be used with any tractor with attach-a-matic system as long as wheels clear and it's way lighter. I also like the finish cut it provides. But you need a large lawn to make it worth the trouble.

Jeff , I found a picture of an end plate drilled for the bearings and I now see what you meant about using the top hole as a start . I could not picture it in my mind because the end plates are out in the shed and I was to lazy to go out before I had all the parts .

I think you have a bad fuel cap vent, once you use a portion of the fuel the tank is under a vacuum that the fuel pump can't overcome. Next time you use it try backing off on the fuel cap a bit (be sure the tank isn't too full). If it keeps running buy a new cap; worked for me.