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It was time to clean up our wood pile from behind the house so we would have room for our mowing equipment so the 606 had to "spring" into action. IMG_4200.MOV

I think it's a straight edge I was using a few years ago when I built a porch. My house is so old and crooked that when the porch was level it looked like crap so I threw that straight edge out into the street!

Third haul here. 1976 B-80. All original, picked it up from the 2nd owner, first was his father in law. Got the owners manual parts lists and attachment manuals. The guy still has the tiller and a snow blower I'd like to pick up as well. Got his tractor and blade for $550. This will end the last for me for a while, I'm getting in trouble with the war department.

To me it looks like a homemade liftlink for a 50" mid mount grader blade . Maybe @wheelhorseman1000 Could help out here ? He has a couple listed on or on the venders page if you want to compare . I would post some pics but I need to renew my membership !

And I have to pass the credit to others. I got the bearing idea off here about 4 years ago. The paddle improvement idea is all over YouTube. The center support idea came from an old Craftsman Blower I had. It was about the same size and used a center support. Then I got looking around. Most blowers have one. I tried it really helped on vibrations. My impeller was all chewed up and cracked . I did the best I could with it and I'm positive it is out of balance.

Don't the lift links for blades have the little hoobie-doobies that go through the holes in the lift mechanism and then get the hair pins?? I think it is home made for a Wheel Horse, but not Wheel Horse.

Had my 876 out with the trailer to spread a little topsoil myself

If it is cracked and out of balance that is easy to check and fix. 1st Sandblast and weld the cracks. 2nd Take a shaft and stick through it and tighten down take two sharpened pieces of steel on edge and rest the shaft on them on each side. If it is out of balance it will rotate till the heavy side is downwards just like a lawnmower blade will. Add some weld to the other sides till they all balance out. Rotate impeller on these edges and stop, if it is balanced it will stop and not rotate either way. This is kinda primitive but it will get you a heck of alot closer that you were before. When I made my rubber wipers for my impeller I weighed the stainless steel plate, bolts, washers, nuts, and rubbers themselves with a gram scale so they were the Exact weight. Being balanced is a big part of overall efficiency in this whole operation.

Well this weekend leaves me seeing RED ,lots of beautiful red. Keeping ever thing warm & cozy in our storage room in the house for a weeks worth of cure time. Getting anxious to start some final assembly.

@Kurt-NEPA, I believe it was you and Duke who I got all the 2stage mods from for my own, thanks to you both, I'm very pleased with the performance of mine and IMHO Toro should have done this before they ever quit production, but I digress, @Xearl I'm sure once all of these are done you'll be a believer too, Jeff.

Yup Jim, as Steve said, 1963 was the first year. But after 50+ years and who knows what the previous owners swapped out it's impossible to confirm what actually came out of the factory. The best way to come close is by looking at a copy of the original parts list. Starting back in the 60's yours truly, still wet behind the ears, was 'upgrading' older tractors with the later improvements that came out. That was mainly due to a certain guy who worked at Wheel Horse and had a garage full of new parts but my supply ended when my Dad found out how he got all those parts. After all the years, if any of those old machines are still out there, the modifications would certainly now be assumed as original. It never ceases to amaze me how so many parts are so interchangeable over the years and even decades but it sure drives us nuts at times trying to pinpoint a particular model.

Here is a drawing of the spacer I made for mine.

Posted about seeing this last summer, finally got it. For free in fact. Definitely needs some work. Steering isn't working, wires are broken, tires are probably shot, hydraulics leak, and it's rusty. It came with a custom blade and a mower deck (not pictured). Still deciding whether I'm going to try and fix it or the 1973 12 Auto. Or both of them.

My raider 8 with my subsoiler I made. I haven't tried it on my wheel horse. Can't wait to try it out.

In my part of VA the 60 inch deck goes for $450 to $550.That is at least the asking price.Never wanted one enough to follow up.JAinVA

Okay, if we are all being honest, I will admit, the last hundred and fifty miles did feel a little "different" towing my wagon. But, hey! It's official! I have a "herd" now! The new to me 416-8, about 1987 vintage, was a little more worse for wear than I had counted on. The seller sort of recognized that and kicked back $100 for fix up. So I got the tractor, deck and dozer for $500. The engine was hard starting and needed half choke to run, but I am thinking that is just a dirty carb. It DID run smoothly, with a throaty twin cylinder growl! I am stoked for the manual transmission, to pull my fat bum up the hill with no complaining. The GT-14 hydraulics just didn't seem up to snuff. The deck purred very smoothly, and had no vibrations or rattles. Now that I see how the Attach-a-matic system works, I might be able to adapt it to the GT-14 if I don't buy a deck for it. The tires are shite, though, leaky, and don't set well on the rims. And there is electric gremlins, loose wires that sometimes keep it from starting. And, just like the GT-14, there are no brakes. There are supposed to be, but there aren't. So, I am optimistic, but a little disappointed it's not as turn-key as I wanted. It will be a race to see which one I can get ready for the spring for mowing. Man, I love the sound of that engine.......

Well yesterday I got my 520 Delivered which was nice, but even more so was my visit with Ken Member Chevelletown. We chatted and talked about Tractors and about everything under the Sun. (GREAT TIME) Here are some pics of Delivery and Visit. Thanks Ken. ~Duke

Yes this is a very good thread fellas. I will be using all these ideas once I tie into my deuce project. Lots of to down load Will have to be sure to check out @HorseFixer's thread too!

I think wallfish got it right. Possibly a grader blade lift link. Been so long since I looked at mine I don't remember.

Here she is.... my 1257 with sickle bar attachment. I tell ya, I took carb apart again didn't work. Checked points they were perfect. What was the issue?...spark plug lol. Looked like new, but replaced it and fired right up. So anyways, I warmed it up, drove it out of the shed to my driveway. First I got off it cuz I was a little nervous and the bar was still upright. I engaged it slowly and it works! Shakes the tractor which freaked me out at first, but normal. Then I set it down, engaged it again for about a minute. Works really well, better than I hoped.

Snow blade lift link.

That's pretty similar to the ripper I built. Mine works pretty well

@Blasterdad I thank GOD every day and especially on Easter. I did order some parts for it , a seat switch, nyliner bushings for hood pin and a spring for the clutch . I don't like that gas spring and besides it's weak so I'll replace it with a spring. Still have to get a new belt to deck. When I get it all done I will post pictures. Now I've got to go to church.

I do drag a 4 ft square of iron fence at times but, my 4 ft wide spring tooth dethatcher does a great job. Drag the wrought iron fence most always only on my stone driveways. I don't think dragging fencing would do much on the lawn. The dethatcher does a great job without weights but, thinking I might add a couple of cinder blocks just to see what that does.

I know Dale that was on the first show listed. He wear's his Confederate Cap (or in his case Rebel) everywhere! He is famous (or infamous as the case may be)for the yellow speedo swimsuits that he got speedo to make and send him a dozen free pair! The other show features a photo of our 1054 tractors in December of 2014 as backgound on a 633 tractor that they bought in Iowa. That episode was the "Grudge Match" episode where Frank and Mike raced some odd ball cars against each other! Tom Bartlett in Alabama and me in Indiana both had tractor photos used for background on the Wheel Horse Company! Here are some of the pics from the episode!

Well if it's nice deck I hope I can get it cheap and if I sell it I can pass the savings on to a member here!

PB Blaster is safe ( and effective ) for electrical systems..

As I have learned on my 520s it's a fine line between being "too tight" and "too loose" , after you take it apart like @lynnmor said and cleaning it up I would suggest a new 3/8"-16 nyloc or metal lock nut, then driving it around with your 9/16" wrench making small adjustments tighter/looser as you drive around on the level up/down some slopes till you get it to stay put ,but not too tight that it "binds" or is hard to push/pull or return to center/neutral with the brake pedal, on a side note if you want a lubricant that won't attract dust/dirt/grass chaffe use dry graphite powder, Jeff.

If you take that locknut and washer off, you can either flip the washer or flatten it on sandpaper that is on a flat surface. You can also remove the cam and do the same with the one underneath. These things are always a bit troublesome.

Great thread and Ideas. I need to do my Chucker and rebuild the blower section someday soon. I have some improvements on bearings same as you did. Xearl So what did you finally end up using for lubrication for the gear box?

Be sure the connections to the regulator are clean and tight. Unbolt it and clean the mounting point to be sure it is well grounded and tighten it well. Your system will work fine without an amp meter; since it is a part of the problem just remove the two wires from it and bolt them together, then tape it up.

Here are few shots of the ARC on my D200 The standard bucket is 4' long seem to be 1/8" steel The buckets do not have enough curl. Next time she is out I will try to get a picture of how the bucket mounts an why the curl could be improved.

@Junkjunkie to If you spent any time at all lurking on Red Square, you know that photos are mandatory!

Is it a magnum or a K series. magnum book doesn't mention that as being needed ...but warns the end caps need to be taped or held in place when you remove the through bolts

Curious about the filter on the suction line. Is that to replace the mesh filter in the reservoir?? Is it a special filter?? from what I have read suction filters (really mesh screens) are fairly coarse 149 microns...return line filters are much finer 10 microns

I hope somebody does something with that Ford......I.M.O. ,Those are very Nice Tractors..

Jeff , You are a big help with this project and what I said to Kurt applies to you also . Without you guys helping me out I would still be looking on line for answers . Tractor supply has a 15% sale tomorrow evening which is when I will get the bearings to make that mod .Now if someone would come up with a used auger shaft in good condition it would be n ice .

The credit was my "pay" for use of the photo of the four Wheel Horse 1054's which the American Pickers researcher found online on Flickr and asked to use for background!

My kind neighbor lent me his lawn roller. This weather is finally beginning to break. 65 degrees!

It is significant to be sure which kind of meter it is as they are wired completely differently. A volt meter would have the needle to the far left when turned off and an ammeter the needle should be in the center when off. Burned terminals on the meter and regulator will cause issues. Do you have a multimeter to do testing with???

So being unhappy all of these years with replacement mufflers for the Electro and not wanting a tall stack I finally decided to adapt the Jay Bee muffler to it. A little improvised plumbing and although unusual and probably not for everyone, after using it for a while I am really happy with it. Incredibly I now can hear just engine noise from front even realizing that my PTO has a ringing noise which I never noticed before. From tailpipe, just a nice burbling exhaust note right under tractor.

Yes I did have to drill new mounting holes. I made my 1/4" spacer and drilled the holes in the end plate on a milling machine. But I could easily have done it on a drill press or with a hand drill. Just be careful with the lay out. It doesn't need to be super accurate,

Ed, I bolted the new flanges (BTW Toro part #s 2 of 110568 and 2 of 119020 relube with grease zerk) to the top center hole then used a transfer punch to mark the 2 new holes that needed to be drilled (a bit oversize for some adjustments) and Kurt beat me to the bearing #s ($13.06/2 from TheBigBearingStore.com) , and also the 1/4" spacer fabbed too, I also made a cover plate for the outside and RVT sealed to try and help keep dirt/water from getting in on that side of the bearings, also my auger shaft was/is pitted but it's just carrying the auger for the most part, just polish with sand paper as best you can, Jeff.

Key thing to remember as a RS Supporter - NO green, yellow, blue, orange, black (unless on one of God's chosen Black hoods), or any grey (unless it is for a Workhorse)... These aforementioned colors are considered capital offenses, displeasing to the eye, and are immediate justification for calling together the Red Square Color Validation Committee (RSCVC) for institution of Red Square excommunication proceedings... Just kidding...

Yes...unless some lawn ranger snuck in there on me. I don't do lawn rangers. Actually the parts that are there look real good, and it still has it's tranny.

Ed, I used the same bearing retainers that have grease zerks and same style bearings as used for the impeller, but the bearing I.D. is 7/8" vs 3/4", the retainers are 3 bolt vs the 4 Bolt bushing retainer I used the top hole then drilled the other 2 using the retainer as a template, also had to fabricate a 1/4" spacer for the bearing to clear the housing, I got the idea from others threads on here (Dukes snow chucker build) that may actually have more in depth info, also the rubber impeller paddles I got from a kit on eBay, I figured since I had to rebuild it might as well go all in, sorry I don't have the specifics as I have paperwork scattered throughout the house and toolbox, but to me it was well worth the extra investment of time and money, Jeff.

What I dug up about GL5 gear lube below, and as far as the auger suspended I believe if one does the bearing upgrade like I have vs the original bushings this helps tremendously and then add Kurt's mod also would be sufficient as the auger turns half speed of the impeller and single stage units, as I also did the rubber paddles extensions on the impeller and and solid "stone deflector" to help push the snow up and out of the chute, Jeff.

Picture of the other side of the bracket. A little dirty now, the blower just got rid of 28 inches of snow last week.

No adjustment on mine. It took me a while to make sure I got the holes aligned. I used transfer punches. The hard part of this project was getting the piece to fit the auger gear box. I used a piece of cardboard and kept trimming until it fit as I wanted it to. Then I made the upright. And finally the angle bracket. Last holes to drill went into the blower housing. I did support the gear box as I did this. I put a bottle jack under it and moved the box to the neutral position with no sag in the auger shaft. Hope that make sense.