Leaderboard

Was at my desk working on some work stuff when my youngest wandered in. Snapped some cool photos. Apparently she loves red. She's a real garage rat. She loves to hang out in my carpentry shop. Thia is the first time she was in my " hobby" shop, she was into everything. Needless to say I got a lot of cleaning to do putting everything back in order

Dethatching and aerating this evening. Excited for the new season! My apologies for poor picture quality😕

Heres one of her older brothers. He's probably put more hours on his horse than most of us. He's truly got an addiction. I guess I'm lucky that he's addicted to tractors and not video games!

I like my 314 ! Great tractor! This is my brother's 314 Hydro with hydro lift . (hood was changed)

Like Anglo, I have a passion for the older basic hand tools. It is clear, the accuracy of measuring tools can vary greatly with the skill of the user. The exception would be a robot operated co-ordinate measuring machine with non contact laser probes. Most of us no longer have access to one of these. Here is a picture of the tool case and some of the tools I used for inspection hydro turbines. Probably would have a problem carrying this on a plane as I did for 40 years. And this is probably my most prized possession... A carpenters tool chest hand made by my Wife's Grandfather about 100 years ago. Note the custom cam locks to position and hold every saw in place during transportation to his next job site.

engine is an Onan, color is correct. Engine looks pretty clean

This is what I did. Simple fab job.

Ditto all of the above posts of the Guy's principles and methods. I also tend to be meticulous with checking fit/wear or Go/No go on any engine etc. I also set myself challenges and measure by 'Feel' with inside/outside calipers, then take measurements from those. I then compare with Hole Gauges and Mic's etc to see how close I can discern accuracy by feel. I have a number of items I use regularly for many jobs (Hobby), some of which are shown below. The Lever type Dial Indicator is 69 years old and still good for 5/10,000ths of an inch, or better. I also use it for setting Techy Timing BTDC of the Piston. The Engineer's Blue (paste) assists with highlighting High spots or wear points on Bearing/Crank Journals etc. Nothing in this pic is less than 30 years old- Like most Tools, you get what you pay for and it depends how often you will have a use for them that will dictate what you pay. If you know the source, you could also buy secondhand and obtain high quality measurement tooling for less money. Whatever you get, enjoy using them and get those engines running smooth and sweet.

Takes a fair amount of practice to be accurate with any precision measuring device. I can get a general idea of the condition of a cylinder by using an old piston ring and checking the end gap and looking for light getting by the side of the ring at various points down thy cylinder. Push it down an inch at a time using the old piston so you know it is square to the cylinder. If the bore seems to be needing attention then the machine shop will have to measure it anyway. The caliper will give you a good indication for cranks, but if you use a bit of plastigage that will tell you how well the rod is fitting.

heres a little video of it

If it is as it appears I think $500 would be a bargain and I think more could be justified. I'd rather spend a $1000 on it than something new from a big box store.

I have a set on The Machine I know it's not a 520, but for pulling a plow they pull, no wheel slippage. So far probably best investment on The Machine to date.

Bummer. I've been topping mine off with whatever gear lube I have on hand. 5 years and counting since complete rebuild.

it was basically my inexperience with a throttle and choke - I kept trying to start at a low throttle (made sense to me) or with the choke in the incorrect position. its a bit embarrassing but im used to newer machines with no choke. I knew there had to be something wrong with me because it ran fine at the guys house so I downloaded the operators manual and learned myself some things - there - that's off my chest - don't bust my chops too hard over it.

The superior Onan engines were designed, engineered and manufactured to an industrial level. Made to be repairable. They were also designed to be rebuildable. Onan engines built in the 60's, 70's, 80's and 90's are still on the job. Why? Because Onan never made any cheap disposable throw away engines. When an Onan is repaired or rebuilt correctly it's a long term investment. Key word: "Correctly". Crappy repairs or rebuilds = crappy results. Here is a picture comparing an "old" outdated Onan and a "Modern" Kohler OHV V-Twin. Onan oil pump is made of steel and cast iron. Kohler oil pump made from aluminum and plastic/nylon. Onan engines have replacable cam and main bearings. The "modern" Kohler? Where are the bearings? Oh! The aluminum engine block is the bearings for both cam and mains. If worn beyond tolerances or damaged what do you do with that "Modern" Kohler engine? Scrap it out, that's what! Disposable! Toss it in the dumpster. Bust off or damage the Kohler oil filter mount? Replace the complete timing cover! Do that to an Onan? 2 bolts and just replace the adapter. If you want to be happy for a day: Drink. If you want to be happy for a year or less: Repower. If you want to be happy forever: Repair/Rebuild your Onan.

did you mean 314-H or 314-8?? A 314 is a fine tractor and will do most anything you ask of it. @PeacemakerJack has got a 314-8 set up for plowing and it's a beast. Get a picture up of it and we can PI (positively identify) it for you. Might not be the worst price pending condition it's in & hours. Serial # will nail down the year.

Darn you Aldon!!!!!! Everyone load up the snow in your yard and send it to Steve!

When I was an Engineman (diesel mechanic) in the USCG, we use to use a lapping plate for injectors, etc. Now I use a piece of glass with wetordry sandpaper. For aluminum, I would start with 1000 grit. Sometimes it is hard to see how much to remove. Spray a light coat of flat black paint on the surface, let dry, and work it until the paint is removed

Thanks guys Some of you tickle the SIT outta me! I have learned when ya hang out with a diverse bunch "O" guys what one doesn't think of the other one will! Thanks Wayne

Just another day at the lake in South Central Pa.

Thanks Glen . My wife said "that proves your not perfect " I like mechanical work so it's not bad at all except the thing broke down on my first pass down the driveway with 2 feet of snow . ED

It looks like this Two Owner 1994 520H with 729 hrs will be coming home to THE Duke"O" minium. This will end up being my Loader Tractor when a ARK 500 will be fitted to her. What I need a loader for with a 100' X 150' City Lot is beyond me? Maybe unloading the groceries or salt for the softener!

Can you guys give me some insight on a local tractor auction? I was on my way to the viewing today, and I had to choose between a good deed and the auction. I did the right thing, but I missed the three hour window to kick the tires. My GT funds have been growing, and I have my eye on this tractor. It isn't my dream tractor, but it could be pretty useful. What concerns do you have when looking at photos of this tractor? Does this model have a way to raise or lower attachments on the rear of the tractor? Do yo you think it probably has 29x hours or 129x hours on the machine? If you only had the photos, how much would you gamble on a bid? Thank you! The Auction is at $300 right now, and it closes tomorrow.

Anyone have any experience with one of these? I'm thinking of investing in one to make it easier to pressure wash the underside of my deck and sharpen the blades.

Hopefully others will confirm this, but the engine block looks like it's painted gray. Factory engines were red or black. I've read that kohl er factory replacement short blocks and complete replacement factory engines were gray. It has a tow hitch on the rear. A clevis hitch for rear attachments could be added. it also has a hitch under the rear axle for attachments like a dozer or grader blade.

In all honesty I have no idea haha. I just chomp at the bit as usual. I believe early spring is a good time to do it though. Makes sense to me at least. My dad has his yard aerated in early april so I just followed that lead😀

Thanks elliot. I'm trying to jump on things quick since my laundry list for projects is growing. The grape vines are getting a nice arbor next.

Just had a brainstorm here guys.... connect the computer to the big high def flat screen with a HDMI cable and we could sit and watch the eagles while we eat supper and relax and unwind in the kitchen instead of watching depressing news, weather and all the other garbage on tv these days. That would make for some fine dinner conversation! What ya think?? One little problem here I don't have internet here other than hotspot from a stupid smart phone which is useless from havin a steel roof. Who wants to set up a go fund me account to get me real Wi-Fi?!?!?! Seriously Ed this whole thread needs a million up.... I run the Hanover website in the backround when I am working in the office and when I hear some squawking I imediately tune in to see whats going on. Nice diversion from crunching numbers all day!

The rubber chains are installed tightly with almost no air in the tire. Then the tire is inflated to normal pressure. Even with them being tight, the rubber cross straps tilt a bit and grab rather well. I think they perform nearly as well as steel chains on a straight pull. If you have a situation where a tractor can slide sideways, the rubber straps seem to actually make that worse. I have taken a 180 on a short, steep portion of my driveway and now use more caution there. One other negative is the rough ride, I believe another member is going to inquire about doubling up the number of straps.

We all know how they work but do we know WHY they work ? I found this interesting . Maybe someone else will ....

Your grass looks good, we need rain here in Missouri.

Some parts of the world believe the upper one keeps and preserves good luck forever. Some, like me wife's Grandad, believe the bottom one continually spills out good luck for you. Be safe, display both. And, no, no Tee square alignment tools on my box.

Very nice Ed, got one of these in there? Guys were giving me grief cause I ws using it to square up my front end! BTW the horse shoe should be pointed up tho so the luck don't run out!

Now, that's definitely a calendar shot right there.

Mmmm shinny, good luck with your project. I'd just like to add that when I read about someone's loader adventure I find myself grinding my teeth with jealousy/envy. Loaders for over here are like rocking horse poo.

New battery + new air filter = kids having fun!

you can fit any k161 or k181 in the 653 (using a 8hp k181 you will need to use a k91-k161 airfilter assembly or hood wont fit). you can even run a magnum 8 like whats on my dads 502 wheel horse left side of picture. but samething its got a k91 carb with a k161 airfilter assembly.

Call me weird, but I have a hankering for quality tools, the older the better. You have a great collection there Ed. Most of my tooling is inherited from my Father who worked on Aircraft from Apr 1939 - 85, so I have great affinity with the tools and I take great care of them. I also have many woodworking tools of his and are all kept as sharp as new. I'm making Chests for them at the moment. I hope my Son will take them on after me. Regards, Richard.

I'vr use Fastenal shipping a couple of times for work and tractor stuff, a . About 18 months ago it seemed the changed to a minimum price of $150. it doesn't appear to matter if it's from the East cost to Texas or the far side of Texas to me $500 100lb or 500lb cost $150 2x2ft pallet or 4x4 pallet $150. I'm sure if it were larger or extra heavy there would be some point to reach an up charge. Overall good service, usually takes about a week.

I have used AG tires for mowing with my B-80 for 20 years. I put them on for better traction on the hills, especially when we have very wet or even very dry conditions. The AGs give me more traction, which means less spinning and yard damage. It takes a little getting used to and learning to not spin them. If they do spin, it doesn't leave as big a spin out patch as a turf tire does I've realized also.

If I used it on most of my tractors there would be puddles of oil, ATF and gas on the floor.

Absolutely awesome Anglo... just learned my weight in gold & points taken!

Yep, I got that tommy. I was referring to the fluids in the tractor.....engine oil, gasoline, and transmission fluid.

SEEMS LIKE THE HORSES HAD THING FIGURED OUT, THE PEOPLE WERE ALONG FOR THE RIDE. Sorry about the all caps, wasn't shouting, just fat finger caps lock.

If the blades are rough I get aggressive with a very coarse hard wheel but never enough to heat the blade edges to any color. Then usually a 120 grit flap disc to touch up the cutting edge. Love the flap discs! And I'm quite the fan of a fine double cut file to finish if I'm showing off. That sharp edge will last and last for about 10 minutes around here! Sand & rocks! I've got to set up two mowers. One for the lawn around the house and another for the trails & less groomed areas.

If you have it welded, the heat MAY make the repair itself brittle and subject to further cracking. If the weld repair involves adding on a thicker reinforcement plate, don't weld the plate to the back side as that will alter the required belt length. Better to weld a plate on the inside if that's how you intend to repair it. HOWEVER.... here is a BULLET PROOF method that requires no welding. Use 2 bits of 1 /4 " 2x2 angle iron about 6" long. Cut away the top edge of one piece and fit it into place as in 3rd pic. Transfer hole locations of the transmission case to the angle iron...then drill the two 3/8 holes in angle iron. Test fit to trans case and bolt in using 2 bolts, about 3/8 longer than original. Once in plate and bolted tight, drill 1/8 pilot holes from outside edge...open the up to 3/8. Using 4 bolts with Nylok nuts, bolt the outside corner of the trans plate to the angle iron. Repeat on other side... When done and all bolted together TIGHT,, then you can trim off the excess angle iron with a sawzall....or notl An important part of this is the location of the 2x4 wood block. Jack up the rear of the tractor and let it down again onto this block, just at the front edge of the transmission case. This 'leverage' will 'pinch' closed the broken frame plate, forcing it back to original position.

Found this over the weekend, L-157, Everything works great, rearend supper quite, Just needa Hood and decide how I want it to look

I just purchased a set of Duro 10.5's for my project, they measure 10 inches wide... for the price with shipping the best deal out there... for the extra .5 inch I wasn't paying north of 200 for a set of Carlisle before shipping.