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November 28 2011 - September 3 2025
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/04/2017 in all areas
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22 points
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10 pointsThat's beats a TimeX any day.... ! Just proves these old Kohlers can take a licking and keep on ticking too...
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7 pointsThere were a couple things that needed attention on our 856, and before we knew it, it had gotten prettied up. Thanks to Glen Pettit and Vinylguy for their great products. Out of respect for the previous owner, hardware bits came from Grainger. The paint is Ace Hardware rattle can Regal Red and Ivory White for the wheels. Built for mow, not show, it’s enough to get the neighbors jealous. Ready for the grass to start growing. Before= www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/67501-hello-from-illinois/ Thanks, Chuck & Sally
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7 pointsHe had to wear out the Kohler first that takes a long time if you keep oil in it. Your order may be delayed unless you supply the Kohler. If it's rebuildable It way take another 40 years.
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5 points
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5 pointsSent the block out to get punched .020 over and sandblasted. I did some minor port and polishing and cleaned up the heads. Some guys say to shave the lip off where the gasket goes to up the compression. I've talked to some guys I trust and they say these L head opposed need more airflow than compression so that wouldn't gain anything. Port/polish is the only easy gain I'm told.
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5 pointsYou NEED one of these! http://www.tractorumbrellas.com/umbrellas/wh-lawn
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4 pointsI should look into that! That's for sure! I haven't given that much thought-- but I will think about it!
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4 points
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4 points
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3 points12 HP, we did it ourselves in the basement and the garage. Sally pointed out I could have done a much better job covering the floors and horizontal surfaces before painting. Even rattle cans have over spray - nice red patches on our gray floors and workbenches. It is a ten footer, good enough to mow but not so pretty that you'd be afraid to. From the neighbor's yard, it looks great. Our Jan and Feb were so warm, and March is continuing the warm trend so we expect to be mowing in a couple weeks. The tires are Kenda Super Turfs. We got a good deal from our local mower shop on tires and mounting. Over the summer, we'll need to fix up the plow blade and blower to match. Snowless winters are not the norm here. We have less into this one than buying a plastic Chinese cookie cutter mower from the big box store. We love the cool factor of a 60's tractor to go with our old vehicles. Thanks for the compliments, Chuck & Sally
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3 pointsFound these. Doubt you are going to find a "Repair" manual. If you are having trouble repairing something just start a thread about it here on RS and you will get answers, help or guidance.
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3 points
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3 points
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3 pointsIts beginning to seem that the intent is to see how much more I can fit into this little tractor. Now it has a serious tachometer.
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3 pointsThanks AMC. It came out pretty slick I will admit! But I may be the only person on the planet to put that kind of shine on the business end of a plow blade. Ha!
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2 pointsMy first Automatic in the stable, '76 C-120. Found her on a local CL ad, owner wanted to pretty it up someday but had inherited a JD & didn't have room for it. He said it ran great, needed new battery. Hooked a jumper box to it & she fired right up, no smoke, no ticks, no knocks. Tranny is strong & tight, 48 inch deck in great shape & 42 inch plow that looks like it was used once! $350.00 later she was on the trailer headed home. Here she is home next to the C-81 I got two weeks ago...
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2 pointsI came across this picture of a d200 when I was looking online and I was wondering if the scoop and back ho were a custom job or if they were accessorys? Either way though that is definitely the coolest D-200 that I have ever seen and probably ever will see.
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2 pointsMy Dad was a Dealer from the late 60's to mid 80's. Lot's of family pictures with a Horse in them.
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2 points
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2 pointslocation is the main factor after what shape is it in,where I live 1500 is exactly what they want for that tractor,thats really not a crazy price if the hours are actually 260,i know most of us wouldn't pay that,i wouldn't but I have several running tractors,but if a person needed a good reliable garden tractor that's a good machine,ya it would be nice to get it cheaper,but how bad do you want or need it
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2 points
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2 pointsHello, I have this old wheel horse that i am thinking about selling or trading. The only issue is that i do not know the year or model of this machine.I do not want to mislead anyone with the wrong info.I have attached some photos, any input would be helpful.From the pictures i have seen think it somewhere around 1963,64 range. Thanks much
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsI had actually thought of looking for a turnbuckle and a couple of fittings but I REALLY don't need to plow anything because then I'd have to get a disc and fertilizer and seed AAAARRRRRGGGGG Guess I should get rid of it before the Miss's gets any ideas. My "honey do" list has more pages than the national budget as it is. Quick.......someone make me an offer!!!!
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsI did manage to remove paint on the frame decal. The serial I can make out but the only thing I could see on model number was rj 5 and couldnt make out whether it was a 9 or not. I will have to try it in better lighting. The serial looks like 18352? Again I will have to try better lighting to tell.
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2 pointsThe old '77 is going up for sale soon , hope it goes to a decent price as work the last few years has been pretty thin and it's cut our income in half or worse . Need to fix the driver's rear wheel cylinders (these trucks use 2 per wheel) before it can go on sale - I won't sell a vehicle that isn't roadworthy - After 5yrs of ownership , I really don't want to let her go since I've wanted one for so long , but the cancer is really starting to accelerate and I'd like to see a collector get it and restore it before it goes too far . So many of these iconic trucks are being scrapped , parted out or turned into trail buggies it's starting to hurt the number of complete examples that are available . I have a whole room in the basement of spare parts - including the correct style twin rear doors that look new , along with a whole hardtop assembly and nearly new looking front doors . Previous owner was a flipper (hence , the wrong top/rear door arrangement) and did some bad things to it but it survives nonetheless . Driveline is original and runs extremely strong despite being 40yrs old this month . The engines were loosely based on the older 50's Chevy truck straight six - the industrial one and not the lighter built car/pickup engine . The odd history of how these things came about after WWII , the Marine Corps and Toyota's engineering is worth a read for the gearheads around here...these things are built more along the lines of a commercial truck rather than a consumer based car - everything is literally meant to be overhauled/serviced and put back without replacing it . The manual is incredible , outlines how to rebuild the steering box , water pump , brake booster fan clutch - every component in high detail although many of those small parts are no longer available . Everything is very heavy and overbuilt , which explains why so many are still surviving in outlying Nations all over the world despite a lack of proper care - and abuse . Sarge
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2 pointsThat's probably what I'll do Terry. I'm thinking it will have a higher ground speed mowing too. I posted on the Garden Tractor Talk forum and got a lot of good advice there. Next weekend the house will be ours so I will be able to get a better look at it. Who knows what other goodies they might be leaving behind. I know there's a big exercise machine that's staying. They said it was too big and heavy to move and they didn't know how to dismantle it. Some folks might be thinking exercise........I'm thinking tractor weights.
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2 pointsJust grind the head flat. If you always install it the same direction, you can just grind the one side of the head flat so it doesn't rub. Or, remove the spring clip and grind the entire thing or cut the head off and drill a new hole. Or, cut it to the smaller length you want and make it shorter. To bend the spring clip to fit, heat it cherry red with a torch so it will bend without breaking and it's easier to cut too. Just don't heat the circle part or it will lose the "spring".
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2 pointsIm sorry to hear this. I will most certainly keep you in my prayers. Get well.
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2 pointsI added 2 pieces of plastic tubing to the pin on each side to keep the pin head away from the casting. If I remember correctly is was the gray 3/8" OD tubing used as supply lines to a deck faucet. Garry
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2 points
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2 pointsReviving an older thread... Launched two 520's this week. This one left today and headed back home to Indiana. Buyers truck pictured loaded to go. Best running 520 I've ever had. Didn't photo the other one. Won't miss 'em. My horse hauler suffered some damage this week after getting caught in a hail storm on the interstate. Windshield, toast! Headlamps, gone! Maybe it's a sign that rustling horses is in my past. Steve
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2 pointsI figured this may be the case. I've seen different decals in different spots on them.. then again I think in 61 or 62 they changed the model from HD42 to BD something or other. Which may be just a bit different with a different decal. Thanks. I went a bit overboard with color sanding and buffing. But why not right? Thanks @wildman. I had every intention of restoring it to a usable condition but I got a bit carried away with the paint work. It'll probably spend it's days as eye candy for me. But that's what I said about the tractor, the mower deck, and the dump cart. It's pretty hard to keep a wheel horse off the grass!
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2 points
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2 pointsI have TWO of the # 16 pins you look for these are both OEM.. Send me an email for details . my email address is: daveoman@windstream.net
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2 pointsSome of the wire locks on these pins have been known to rub and machine grooves in the PTO bell. I use a 1/4" socket head bolt and a locking nut.
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2 pointsIt turned out to be better than expected. I wasn't too concerned about it not running since the old guy said it did, but we sprayed a shot of ether into the carb and it started for a bit. I don't plan on doing anything to this for a long time if even at all. The thing I liked is all the paperwork that came with it. I am very satisfied with this tractor and told the owner as much. Here are some pics.
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1 pointFor those of you that opened this wondering what is a McLean, here is a link to some history on the tractor. It is also the most information that I have found on the McLean.http://www.tractorfriends.org/lawngardentractors/mccleangardentractors/mccleangardentractors.html Last year when I bought my Suburban 400 I also saw this strange little tractor sitting off to the side. I had no idea what it was but my interest was peaked. I took a couple pic's then kinda forgot about it for a while. Eventually it came back into my thoughts and I decided to do some research to find out what it was. I posted my pic's on here hoping some one would recognize it but I seemed to have every one stumped. After a few days of searching I finally found a picture of one on the net. Great! I thought, now I can find some info. Well there just isn't a lot of info out there on these thing, unfortunately. I did manage to find the owner of the one in the link that I posted above. He's a great guy, I spent some time on the phone with him and he was willing to send me some pic's to help me out with my project. Below are pics of when I brought my McLean home. Really rough shape, probably not worth fixing but it's a rare tractor so I was willing to give it a shot. A tractor needs an engine so I started there first. The K90 that was in the tractor was locked up of course, but after a month of dumping ATF down the plug hole two times a week it broke free. All of the tins and the bearing plate were junk so I started to look for parts. Then I found a K91 close buy and decided to go with that engine instead. I will tackle the K90 another time. There are many great engine rebuild posts on here so I'm going to keep mine real simple. 1 2 3 Next was the tear down on the rest of the tractor. Most of this went well, a PO had made a lot of changes that I had to cut out. I will share those as I go along on this resto. First thing that I tackled was the front end. The steering shaft had an aluminum pulley on one end and an aluminum steering wheel on the other, both of which were locked on to the shaft. i decided to cut the shaft in half so I could deal with removing the pulley & wheel on the bench. The steering wheel I did not remove because it is wrong anyway, but I needed the pulley. A little wax and some heat helped start to get things moving and then "Sha doobie Shattered Shattered". Well I have no way of casting aluminum but I did find a nice chunk of aluminum stock laying in my garage. It was 3 1/4" dia, I needed 2 1/8" dia. Time to make some shavings. Finished product next to original. A PO also cut part of the steering arms off that will be required for the differential to work. I made new pieces and reinforced the axle where it was worn. Then carefully measured and lined things up so I could weld every thing back together. Removing the old steering arm was great fun! Front end mocked up and looks ready for paint. Next it is on to the transmission. What to do with this mess?!
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1 pointI have a 20 x 25 foot garage that I have been storing my various Wheel Horses and John Deeres in. It's also home to my son-in-law's Harley. Right now it's over full and it's a pain to walk around everything and a real pain to get a tractor out that's buried in a corner. So, I bought a new lofted barn from one of those rent to own shed places. It's a 10 x 16 with a loft, verical z-metal siding over osb inner walls. It's supposed to be delivered sometime this week, probably tomorrow. Paid more than I was going to pay, but decided the loft would be a good to keep things off the floor. It will be home to about 4 tractors, most of them will be Wheel Horses, so it will be my horse barn. It will probably get Wheel Horse signage while the other garage will remain my main work shop and home to most of my John Deeres and probably the 520-H, plus of course, my son-in-law's Harley. I always wanted a red barn, so I guess this is close enough.
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1 pointI have 2 Wheel Horse 4 wheel wagons. One has a WH decal on the sides, and the other has been repainted without decals. I have looked at many, many photos of these and see many different configurations of the WH decal. Is there a specific decal for a specific year of wagon, or did WH use whatever they had? What decal is for what year/model wagon? Thanks for your assistance.
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1 point
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1 pointas far as bolts on tractor you don't need to torque any of them,on an engine or tranny yes for sure,make sure you snug them up good and tight and you will be fine,i would use thread locker on all dog point screws,like the tranny shifter screw,wheel hubs,and the pulley locker grub screws,
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1 pointI have a small Wheel Horse slot hitch plow, and I agree with Steve....Home-made!
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1 point
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1 pointThank you mods. You might want consider a Harbor Freight predator motor in the 6.5 to 8 HP flavor. . Might have to rearrange some mounting holes but not too terribly difficult. Might be easier to find than an appropriate Kohler. Can't beat the price as well. You can get the specs & dimensions from their site (HF) to see what you might need to do.
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1 pointI'm not sure how "vintage" you guys are talking, but I did find this old gem a year or two ago, probably about 20 years ago, maybe not vintage, but still an older pic, for sure! It's my dad an I on the 211-5 that was my Aunt's tractor. She eventually moved out to California, and we inherited it, most likely its what started the in me.