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Well it is green but it is not an off brand tractor rather a Polaris Ranger 2011 EV. All electric 30hp motor. I like this unit a lot. It is a 2011 with 199 hours.

The 551 is nearly ready for spring. Here's the before and after.

PLEASE put one of these on:

Along with my wheelchair project been throwing around the same idea ... l have a old hydro 18hp BS vert.twin mower (Ranchking or MTD) . Thinking of stuffing the hydro and engine in it . I know there would have some major metal fab to get the engine in but exhaust pipes coming out on each side would be along with the ease of hydro drive .

C'mon now Steve.... That is the LAST model you want for your bucket list? Once you find a 754 if I know you there will ALWAYS be a bucket list tractor....

I saw it also and recorded it. I believe it was in Portland, Maine. ==> Wheel Horse at 00:24

While watching the National News this evening, they were showing all the snow in the North-East. It was a quick shot, but I saw a Wheel Horse with a snow plow pushing snow! Maybe someone on Red Square just had their 15 (seconds) of fame!

Well, it is typical to have the auto trans units to have seal leaks after sitting outside and being 45 years old. Pulling the seals on one Horse went fine by using one of these "church keys" pictured here and in the link below.. The other Horse just would not give them up as the church key was too thin and kept bending when tapped with a hammer https://www.google.com/search?q=paint+can+opener&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi874TAlJDSAhXFRSYKHXi9Al0QsAQIrQE&biw=1177&bih=666 The trouble, is they are not strong enough for the stubborn ones.. First, cut a groove in a 5/16 or so Allen wrench long leg. Cut the groove with a mini grinder with a decently new wheel and quench it in oil if it starts getting hot while cutting. Then grind the profile that you see on the end of the paint can opener illustration. You have to leave a little more meat on your homemade seal puller, but be sure to generously round off the underside so it slips in the area of the seal that is just rubber. The hook portion needs to be pretty tight to the inside lip of the bearing lip to keep from tearing out the lip radius. I took the time to use a fine grit flap grinding wheel to really polish up the end of the seal puller so it would not scratch up the shaft.in the critical seal area When you use it, the groove you cut might bend the seal lip, but that is ok. If you made it correctly, all the pulling will happen higher up right where the lip bends internally. I hope i have written this well enough to state that all the force is applied inside the seal and nothing ever touches the bore of the axle housing.The fact that you used an Allen wrench is helpful in that the flat of the wrench keeps it square with everything and when you tap the short leg [or L part of the wrench] everything stays square and the tool pulls evenly. The force of the blow actually keeps the tool tight to the shaft and helps keep it square. The tough steel used on an Allen wrench is perfect for this application, but safety glasses are not a bad idea. After messing with the above pictured can opener above for maybe an hour yesterday. Ten minutes with the grinder making this tool and five more with tapping and out she came. When you insert the tool and tap it into the rubber, the metal capture ring flares out. After doing the first two, i discovered that it is best to just go around the metal ring and flaring the whole thing and then tapping it out. The tool rests tight against the shaft and makes a straight pull. That is why it works so well. You can see how rough the seal metal ring looks after pulling. it makes you nervous until you pull a few .

Was there a metal tab hook on the top of the motor. if so it gets the long bolt

If I remember right there should be two longer bolts to go where the S/G bracket sits...someone correct me if I am wrong.... according to the missus I usually am!

T.O. never under estimate the old Kohler i have pulled three wheel horses with Kohler engines out of the scrap and all three with a little time have run well. The only one that I gave up on had a Onan. Update. Had a little time before my shift and the super C runs and all the hydro works maybe have to keep it for snow blowing

I have been contemplating going after this C-175. It's down one cylinder according to the ad, but remembering @bowtieguy C-175 repowered with the 22 hp Predator engine has me thinking.

4:00 AM to 6:30 AM. Plow area, just a trace, some small drifts. Blow back what I plowed. 8 degrees, no wind, fresh and clean air. 1/2 gallon gas for both .

Another 8" of snow yesterday. Couldn't wait to get home and clear it. I used the 3/15 first, i have found in deeper heavy snow and going up hill the tractor performed-best in 2nd low range. First high slipped a bit going up the grade even with the chains and weight. I then widen the street in front of my house with the 3/12 dozer blade. Prior to that I got the wife's pathfinder stuck in the driveway, I got my 4Runner out at 5am in 2 wheel drive, thought I'd have no problem with that in all wheel. I was wrong and have another reason to dislike it! I was gonna just drag it out but good luck finding a tow hook on one of these

There are probably 2 notable issues with the "Big D" line-up -- The Sundstrand hydro drive and the steering box. with the tranny being the biggest. And I'm sure you know about other typical things to check --- The drive is very beefy and is a good unit --- when its not worn! and with the ages of these models they can be just that, worn. If the tractor runs/drives butt it up against a tree and apply power and see if the wheels will throw a rooster tail of dirt - check reverse for good movement. Parts for it are getting more and more scarce for them and repair is quite an undertaking, but there are lots of info and help for that here on the forum. The steering is prone to get a lot of slop in the box and even blow out the steer box (its called a Ross box) While a bit of a pain to remove, the repair is relatively simple. Theres a bit of a love/hate for the D's Some love them (me) and some think they are the ugliest of the horses! I have 3 of them and would fight a bear if somebody tries to take em away!!

Starter was frozen, cant repair just pondering a repower vs finding out the motor burns oil like crazy and being money into a lost cause. And i did buy it for the steering wheel..... but hmyou know how that goes jim.

Well, call me crazy but here is what i decided to do with the "Jay Bee" muffler on the Electro 12. It was not bought for it but it needed one so I decided to use it. There is no room in front of engine and behind hood for it. From the air filter to the hood everything interferes.If the muffler's body was about 3" shorter then with some clever plumbing it would work but still be tight. If hood was as wide on bottom as on top even better, but it is what it is on this model. When I got this tractor from Ken B. it had a long muffler mounted horizontally which is the best way for this model as you can see on first photo. The only draw back was that the outlet on long muffler was too close to operator and one winds up having some exhaust on the face area. So based on how it was then I mounted this one also horizontally. Since it has the outlet on the side with the long pipe exhaust is directed much lower than before. No interference with PTO or implement belt changes. I will also probably fabricate an extension and have it directly under foot board aimed away from tractor. Fabricated metal bracket to attach to mufflers bracket for additional support . The Electro was always a noisy tractor specially at full throttle. Although still a bit noisy compared to others now one notices engine noise rather than muffler. At idle it is very quite and at full throttle it has a nice "throaty" sound. Sounds really solid unlike before. The original muffler fell apart inside with the loose baffles actually plugging the exhaust outlet and I bought another one like it for about $35.00 only to have exactly the same thing happen after one year. This muffler is heavy at 3Lbs 9-1/2ounces compared to a tall stack muffler with the flap on top which is only 3Lbs 1-1/4 ounces. It should last forever now.

The 2 different input pulleys are because older tractors use small (2" +/-) engine pulleys. the Charger Electro Raider tractors had 4 " (+/-) engine pulleys.

Right...thanks Paul and Jim. Do not use that puller on that hub...it will break it. I bought my hardware from TSC, they sell their bolts, etc. by the pound. That puller should work on the brake drum though. Close that case up a little to get some room for the arms to catch. Take a wire wheel, file or Emory cloth to clean up the part of the shaft that does stick out. You could use a little heat on the brake drum and then melt some candle wax on it. The wax gets drawn in and works like penetrating oil. On my hub puller, you can tighten up the 1" bolt and then tighten up the 5/16" bolts a little at a time (working your way around). You may have to loosen everything and readjust as it comes off. My picture of that hub puller...I was using that on a 3 hole hub. Make sure you buy the 5 bolts and use all 5 when doing the puller thingy. It will work.

Thanks Jim, but this is a later K241, no S&G. No hook, but that sounds right. The hole on the corner near the intake valve is a thru hole probably going to put it there.

thank you. i am glad to help

@Dnorth I got your PM...going to answer here so this will help others and/or others may have another option. For the brake drum...1st, measure the diameter of the drum and the shaft size, I have an extra brake drum if the shaft and diameter are the same size. Take a real good look at that shaft...did you take of the "C" clip that holds it on. A 2' bar behind the drum and a puller like this...should work. As far as the hub...take your other hub and make a puller like this out of it...it will take a hub off... That is a 1" bolt with 1" washers and nut for the center. The other bolts are 5/16 with nuts and washers so as not to mess up the threads in the hub.

I'd keep it too.Super C's are a pretty desirable tractor.Have fun with your new toy.

I had a 110 I restored a while back... Super fun tractor and the variable drive is fun to use. Looks like you got a nice one!

Thanks Mark. It's great to be back. I watched many Wheel Horse videos on you tube while in the nursing facility. That helped me keep going somewhat. I just kept looking ahead and looking forward for the day to come that I'd be able to do the things that I enjoyed doing again. I believe if I hadn't had a positive outlook and things to look forward to, I probably wouldn't have made it. And, I'm still keeping that attitude. I plan on beating this one way or another. Thanks again!

Wow ,there is some serious modifications by previous owner , I'm sure that you have it looking like an original in no time Ewan, good luck with it

Frame and blade are coated. This was the 1st and 2nd coat. Just finished applying the 3rd and final coat a little bit ago.

Been meaning to congratulate you you on your epic find !!! DIBS... If nobody called it Did I beat Craig to it

Nice cab... Is that a heat collector on the right side? Is the belt guard vented? I just captured the heat behind the PTO and mine stays 30F warmer than outside temp.

I needed a hitch for my 3/15. I've seen some real nice ones here so I decide to build my own. The angle iron is scrap bed frame, tough stuff and plenty strong. The side pieces are 2"x2"X1/8" square stock, bought an 8' at my local steel supplier cheaper than I thought. I own a wellsaw horizontal band saw (saved from scrap yard) made the job quick and easy. The receiver tube was a 12" cut in half. Came from harbor freight. Welded, primed, 2 coats of toro red and 1 clear coat. Supports 180lbs of cast iron no problem

Pump starting to go? Too thick of oil?

I thought so too once I started it but actually after driving it for a while no Hot Foot at all.

Some of the parts list show 5/8" with lock washers and some show 1/2" with no washers. I used stainless 5/8" with lock washers but I'm with Jim on 3/4" probably being fine as long as you verify the depth first like he said.

Wow...I'm surprised the salt works at 10 degrees.

I may have those HD shims around..... if I can find them ....!

Some days I feel down from back pain and small everyday things that are really minor. When I read what you have been through I realize that I have nothing to feel down about. I wish you the very best Dom and am praying for your complete recovery. Please keep us informed on your recovery and keep on fighting. You remain in my prayers. God bless you.

Thanks 953 nut!

Thanks for the history, I love learning about those great marvels. I have a '79 black fiberglass hood with the Briggs & Stratton. That little tractor has amazing pulling power with the 8 speed. I regularly use it to move out, or park my 21 foot 3,800 lb boat and trailer in to a tight spot in my driveway. If it would be helpful, I could look for the serial # to get you more specs on when and where it was built.

Looking good @WHX9 following closely ! Wish I could do the same without having wait for others to help...but this keeps sane watching you do this. Keep the coming !

Ztnoo.........we screw all the signs to a wood pole,,,,a metal or plastic pole might create another delima,,,,,But any input is good...... thank-you,,,,,I am listening Oh,,,,and I just caught what Elcamino Jim said,,,,he only says that because its true... Howard857Horse in Va

joe look at where sheft is placed on carb that steve posted versus what you got. i just went through this on my 701 it was bogging down under loads changed the hole readjusted governor and boom runs strong area i circled is what i am talking about

@rj35hunter engine serial number is 716033

😍 I like - and all I remember is that it was somebody else's fault about the seals

@857 horse Glad @ztnoo showed you a picture , did not want you to get confused the fancy word "Octagon" , you may have thought he was talking about soap.

Now that's the funniest thing I've heard in awhile!

No pic right now but it goes around the engine pulley back to the trans around that one and over the clutch pulley you have to loosen the pulley on the clutch to get the belt under the tab, be sure the clutch spring is good it is on the other side of the trans above the brake band.

:whistle: Chris What you have there is a 1969 Gt14. Actually your not missing to much besides the the hydro. All you need in the way of sheet metal is the seat mount, seat positioning plate and the shift plate. And you have the 3pt and electric clutch which is nice as they are a little pricey. If push comes to shove you can put any Sundstrand hydrogear on it( pre 1972) , and if you want you can get a sundstrand piston to piston (1973 to 79). Theres a little work involved in makeing this conversion but not that bad. My loader Gt14 has a C160 hydro on it and it works fine. So you have a couple of options. Good luck with your project and remember we're in this together