Leaderboard

So besides a little engine refreshing, I managed to put on wheel weights that I painted and threw on behind the wheels. Also put on the hubcaps finally.

This video was taken back in oct 2015 . I was amazed what that little 4hp kohler could do ! Think spring... https://youtu.be/pSnWliSydIU

I'm sure that the timing is a bit advanced. I need to pull the shroud to locate and hi light the timing mark. As tall as the stack is, I was surprised to see a flame at the tip. Mark.

They're mine, hence the recycled pictures and descriptions. I want them gone. I'll have to check, but I think I set these up as an auction. I'm losing money on each of them at the opening bid, but that's not really a big deal at this point. I just want the space back. Shipping can be an option if someone is interested. I can palletize (might take me a while) and either have picked up at work loading dock or dropped at a Fastenal store. But buyer needs to do all the legwork. The 520H/48 is actually already palletized (see pic). Hopefully they go. Steve

I thought i'd post the restoration of my Cub Cadet 70 which is very rare in the UK, I finished her last year. I was very happy when I won the auction but a massive task was ahead of me, it was nice to get a tractor that came with all of the original manuals and although someone had badly painted her at some point it was in an original condition, complete condition. Here is how I got her One of the first jobs was fixing the steering box which didn't work very well. We could see straight away why, as parts are expensive to import to the UK we tried to fix everything we could. My dad (meadowfield) fixed the steering box using bicycle headset parts and the steering box works exceptionally now. Since the steering box had been fixed I went on to refurbishing the steering wheel. First I used a dremel to remove all the rust and also drilled small holes into the plastic so that the epoxy putty i used would hold. I was very happy and its not noticeable now. Below is how she was before i stripped her down. Rust was very bad as you can see. After years of use and no way of greasing the axle the pin had seized solid, we tried many methods to remove it but had to resort to drilling out the pin, when reassembling the axle i added a grease nipple and we turned a groove in the pin. We then worked on removing all the bad metal and fabricating new pieces. \ I like to do restorations properly and so I sandblasted 99% of the parts to remove all the rust. Some one had smashed the hood stand to but a larger battery in so we had to fix that as well. That was then sandblasted. After many hours of repair and sandblasting it was time to etch prime the parts and paint the parts. I managed to save the original rear tyres which was good. Every part was painted separately and then i assembled for the last coats. The hood was littered with rust holes and pitts but in an effort to keep the originality the holes were welded up and lots of filler was required. Back on all 4 wheels The light knob was missing so from a picture I turned one on the lathe. After a few more bits and pieces and decals from my dad she was finished. Here I am on the first test drive! I managed to save the original number plates which i was very happy with. This has been my most favourite restoration i have done so far and i have learnt many skills including painting with a spray gun, (i did all the painting myself) all these skills will be helpful with my up and coming RJ 58 restoration

Finally got the Honda Horse dialed in! Even with the factory 6:1 gear reduction on the G300, this thing plows perfectly! Just it will actually plow at an idle in 3rd gear. Doesn't even sputter! Can't wait to hook the dozer blade up to see what it can push

Mine isn't cored out. I wanted it as quiet as I could get it. The muffler is from a 2015 Road King. Best of all, it was free. I'll try to get a video at night soon. Mark.

Just waiting for decals noeNoe

I would err on the side of caution Mike and go with the weather guy" 18" figure and just be ready with the equipment fueled up.

Hello all. Today it was ok enough outside to go out in the shed and replace one of the many things I bought from fleabay. I decided to replace the head gasket, (all original, never taken off.) I was really nervous, but surprisingly all 9 bolts came right off no problem. Also, I've definately seen worse. For 50 years old, this thing really surprised me. I also replaced the front breather cover filter and gaskets. Here's a couple before and after pics.

Gotta love it...night time plowing!

1964 953 and 1054 snowthrower 1965-66 953 1054 and 1054A snowthrower They brought out a kit to change the ST-375 to one that would fit the long frame tractors which is what the C-Series are but the C-Series has a front quick hitch. The long frame models prior to the C-Series did not have the front quick hitch unless it was added as an option later on. You can see the differences in this bulletin. Belt widths were 1/2" for these where later models used a 5/8". Belt length for the 953, 1054 and 1054A was different. Garry Did not answer your blade question - have had snowthrower on the brain lately.

That's the plan Jim....fill up my fuel tanks and my 4x4 truck. Mike......

They're incredible little machines... nothing better than seeing 'em still being worked.

Snow blowers were built to capture and direct the snow while the blower moves it. You NEED a second with a snow blade on it.

Well I found a 312-8 locally yesterday in good shape so I went to look at it with the wife. Long story short she dropped me off and I drove it 4 miles back home. It is a strong runner and only took almost an hour to get home after a few short cuts through the town park. The picture of her at home under the deck till I can get her inside.

Eastern PA, didn't push snow ... yet! Forecast soooooo, 416-8 and the 520-8 dressed. Wheel weights, chains, 48" blades. The Horses are happily excited. What's with that?

Electrical lock nuts come in steel and aluminum, you may need to go to an electrical sippl house to find the steel ones. I think I shared a picture of mine and contributed to @Hacksawhero123 delinquency!

to red square............. The first part sounds like a weak fuel pump - tank is under the seat and it takes a bit to get the fuel to the carb - had the same problem and put an electric pump on...problem solved..however...it could be something else entirely..others will chime in.. it won't turn over if the safety switches aren't made - make sure the pto is disengaged when starting ( has a seat switch too )

YUK!!!

A soft wire wheel on a cordless drill, brake cleaner, and a microfiber cloth. Used the kohler manual for torque spec and sequence. I really thought those bolts would give me a hard time I was prepared for the worse, but it was literally like butter. Will do, that actually slipped my mind about the retorque lol. I got the carb off and few other things too that I gotta take care of.

Remember to redo the torque on the head bolts after it has run for an hour or so.

Craig says it's OK.....if he was displaying a SMV sign.

You should be reading about 14.4 VDC. Not sure why you see VAC, but some some simple rectifiers can put out a pulsed signal that will look like VAC to some meters. Just a thought. For the Light Bulbs. The 520H bulbs are no. PAR36. There are LED bulbs available. See superbrightleds.com

1/2-13 x 2 inches for the bolts.

We need more details Wildman.

Still 65 F here this morning, but I just saw one forecast for 8-12" starting in 12 hours go figger ? I did fill the tanks, check the oil, and hook up the chargers on the snow team.

Thanks for posting the video. I embedded the video for you.

Napa RuGLYDE will clean and refresh the rubber, scrub them first and then apply this stuff and bag them up for a week and let it soak in.

Don't do that if you want snow. Sure-fire way to scare it off!

amazing little engine

Wow, 70 F here today, so I was able to work outside.

A case of "don't try to reinvent the wheel" (horse) for sure! Have blown heavy snow with our C-81 for years... Our C-141 has more power but the 81 is still my favorite.

Unless you have absolutely nothing else to do,why bother?? Both are great tractors just the way they are.Just my opinion.

Well tires are on and new exhaust made it's not quite finished in the picts

Sure...doing 45, and his seat belt fastened. Why the hell not?

Well i picked up a really nice gas tank at tractor salvage yard the other day since mine was wasted. It came off an old Simplicity and was unbelievably in nice shape especially the inside. It is more like the style found on Sears where is is more squared vs the rounded Wheelhorse tank. I will have to make new straps anyways and have some work to do in that area of the hood.I will post some pics tomorrow but its coming along. I am getting some gasket material tomorrow and will start putting trans back together this weekend.

Did my best to stop it, Mike.

Nice work I think many of us here can attest to the amount of work that goes into this kind of project & you did it excellent. it looks like you had the good fortune to inherit your dad's fabrication skills!

Ah 5" +/- of wet heavy snow, a small feat for my 2stage or even the tall single being spun by an Onan, or maybe even the twin Kohler on the Xi, Jeff.

5" of wet snow expected here in SE PA. Unfortunately, snow will be too wet to try my new snow thrower. I guess the plow will get a workout. Jim

We'll cross our fingers for you... and pray...it all goes your way.

Hot soapy water and a scrub brush would be my guess. I would hesitate using rust removal products unless it gives a list of things it can be used on, looking specifically for rubber. Dawn dish washing soap is good for many uses. I use it for all kinds of things.

My neighbors must think i'm looped when they see me mashing down the snow for a "base" with the truck

Watch out for those cheap flappers at TSC - I broke two of them in the store a few weeks ago just by giving it a light twist after a buddy brought one over to be re-welded - their spot welds are a joke . The old girl looks serious with the stack on it - me likey... Sarge

Putting a blade on the nose of the blower will eventually bend the blower housing , as well as tear up the mounting points...not recommended . Rear blades are really handy , just fyi.. Sarge

Joe, you have a couple things going on. Can you put a picture of the top of your piston, now that you have the head off. If it kind of looks like this...that clean area from 12 to 4 o'clock shows oil blow by, and you need to rebuild the engine first. That is the blue smoke...does not matter if it start up or under load. The other thing you have going on, is the governor. Your engine is never going to run under load if that cross shaft is not locked with that lock nut. If it still turns when that net is tight, it is not doing what it is supposed to do. Rebuild the engine first (I just tore down my K181 on my 876...taking it to the machine shop Monday). When you get it back, let's put it back together. Check out Mike Prondzy's thread in the "Reference" Section/Engines...K181 rebuild. The manual, if you do not have it, is in the manual section under engines. Check out the manual and read it...everything you want to know...and we are here to walk you through it. I hope you know that you can not just change the rings and put it back together, you need good measurements and either bored and/or cross hatching. Checking the valves, tolerances, etc. It is not a huge project, but you are just wasting your money if you do not do it right. I used a ratchet strap to hold the fly wheel to get the castle nut loose, and then to use the puller to get the fly wheel off. I did not take the engine off the horse until I got all the pulling stuff off the engine.

It’s been almost a year since I built my 312-8 loader and I wanted to share my experience. This tractor has been invaluable to me and I find new uses for it almost on a weekly basis. Upgrading the rear wheels to 26x12 Ag’s is by far the best modification i made. They provide insane traction, increased travel speed, and make the loader way less tippy. They also look great. This mod requires raising the seat pan 1” and using wider rims with the correct offset. 520rims are ideal but can be hard to find. The rims on my tractor are fabricated from two wheels (notice weld seam). Filling the tires makes a huge difference! The momentum of the fluid is very noticeable when plowing or plunging into loose dirt. The 26x12 wheels can hold almost 100lb of washer fluid each. I am currently not using wheel weights and I have yet to get stuck. I was previously running 23x8.5 AGs (unfilled w/ 50lb weights) and had serious traction issues, even with light bucket loads. Turf tires are useless. The 520 1” spindles and gear reduction steering are absolutely essential. This setup is so solid and certainly not a weak point. The amount of weight in the bucket is most noticeable in the steering. Even with the gear reduction system, the tractor needs to be moving to steer. It is important to know the limitations of the machine. I actually blew my differential by testing the traction. I bought these good year 26x12 super-terras used from a guy in CT. They were knife-sharpened to increase traction for pulling. The differential broke in 1st-low while peeling up un-disturbed earth with my bucket. This machine can easily load full buckets of loose-dirt and stone, but really shouldn’t be used for any real ground engagement IMO. What I love most about these tractors is that I was able to replace the transmission in less than 4 hours. I have used the snot out of this machine. It is awesome for what it is and will suit my needs for years to come. Thanks, -Justin These old wheelhorse carts are huge and take a heavy load! Was gonna sell it, but i am finding too many uses for it. ^Loader as is sits today. AG's up front simply for the looks. Its definitely pretty worked and dirty. ^These were all pulled out of the woods behind my house. Couldn't have done this without the loader. ^ I moved this rock no problem. Its a giant. ^ I moved this rock too. ^ standard hitch added. All the parts are from harbor freight. ^ I bough this hitch because it had the lower mount I need for towing my cart. ^Knife-sharpened endges. Notice weld seam in rim. ^ Tractor with 23x8.5 AGs.

Forks are a great thing. I fabbed up a set for mine over the winter. Can't wait to really put them to use.