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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/08/2017 in all areas
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7 pointsSo besides a little engine refreshing, I managed to put on wheel weights that I painted and threw on behind the wheels. Also put on the hubcaps finally.
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6 pointsThis video was taken back in oct 2015 . I was amazed what that little 4hp kohler could do ! Think spring... https://youtu.be/pSnWliSydIU
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5 pointsI'm sure that the timing is a bit advanced. I need to pull the shroud to locate and hi light the timing mark. As tall as the stack is, I was surprised to see a flame at the tip. Mark.
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5 pointsThey're mine, hence the recycled pictures and descriptions. I want them gone. I'll have to check, but I think I set these up as an auction. I'm losing money on each of them at the opening bid, but that's not really a big deal at this point. I just want the space back. Shipping can be an option if someone is interested. I can palletize (might take me a while) and either have picked up at work loading dock or dropped at a Fastenal store. But buyer needs to do all the legwork. The 520H/48 is actually already palletized (see pic). Hopefully they go. Steve
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4 pointsI thought i'd post the restoration of my Cub Cadet 70 which is very rare in the UK, I finished her last year. I was very happy when I won the auction but a massive task was ahead of me, it was nice to get a tractor that came with all of the original manuals and although someone had badly painted her at some point it was in an original condition, complete condition. Here is how I got her One of the first jobs was fixing the steering box which didn't work very well. We could see straight away why, as parts are expensive to import to the UK we tried to fix everything we could. My dad (meadowfield) fixed the steering box using bicycle headset parts and the steering box works exceptionally now. Since the steering box had been fixed I went on to refurbishing the steering wheel. First I used a dremel to remove all the rust and also drilled small holes into the plastic so that the epoxy putty i used would hold. I was very happy and its not noticeable now. Below is how she was before i stripped her down. Rust was very bad as you can see. After years of use and no way of greasing the axle the pin had seized solid, we tried many methods to remove it but had to resort to drilling out the pin, when reassembling the axle i added a grease nipple and we turned a groove in the pin. We then worked on removing all the bad metal and fabricating new pieces. \ I like to do restorations properly and so I sandblasted 99% of the parts to remove all the rust. Some one had smashed the hood stand to but a larger battery in so we had to fix that as well. That was then sandblasted. After many hours of repair and sandblasting it was time to etch prime the parts and paint the parts. I managed to save the original rear tyres which was good. Every part was painted separately and then i assembled for the last coats. The hood was littered with rust holes and pitts but in an effort to keep the originality the holes were welded up and lots of filler was required. Back on all 4 wheels The light knob was missing so from a picture I turned one on the lathe. After a few more bits and pieces and decals from my dad she was finished. Here I am on the first test drive! I managed to save the original number plates which i was very happy with. This has been my most favourite restoration i have done so far and i have learnt many skills including painting with a spray gun, (i did all the painting myself) all these skills will be helpful with my up and coming RJ 58 restoration
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4 pointsFinally got the Honda Horse dialed in! Even with the factory 6:1 gear reduction on the G300, this thing plows perfectly! Just it will actually plow at an idle in 3rd gear. Doesn't even sputter! Can't wait to hook the dozer blade up to see what it can push
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4 pointsMine isn't cored out. I wanted it as quiet as I could get it. The muffler is from a 2015 Road King. Best of all, it was free. I'll try to get a video at night soon. Mark.
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4 points
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4 pointsI would err on the side of caution Mike and go with the weather guy" 18" figure and just be ready with the equipment fueled up.
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3 pointsHello all. Today it was ok enough outside to go out in the shed and replace one of the many things I bought from fleabay. I decided to replace the head gasket, (all original, never taken off.) I was really nervous, but surprisingly all 9 bolts came right off no problem. Also, I've definately seen worse. For 50 years old, this thing really surprised me. I also replaced the front breather cover filter and gaskets. Here's a couple before and after pics.
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3 points
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3 points1964 953 and 1054 snowthrower 1965-66 953 1054 and 1054A snowthrower They brought out a kit to change the ST-375 to one that would fit the long frame tractors which is what the C-Series are but the C-Series has a front quick hitch. The long frame models prior to the C-Series did not have the front quick hitch unless it was added as an option later on. You can see the differences in this bulletin. Belt widths were 1/2" for these where later models used a 5/8". Belt length for the 953, 1054 and 1054A was different. Garry Did not answer your blade question - have had snowthrower on the brain lately.
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3 points
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3 pointsThey're incredible little machines... nothing better than seeing 'em still being worked.
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3 pointsSnow blowers were built to capture and direct the snow while the blower moves it. You NEED a second with a snow blade on it.
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2 pointsWell I found a 312-8 locally yesterday in good shape so I went to look at it with the wife. Long story short she dropped me off and I drove it 4 miles back home. It is a strong runner and only took almost an hour to get home after a few short cuts through the town park. The picture of her at home under the deck till I can get her inside.
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2 pointsEastern PA, didn't push snow ... yet! Forecast soooooo, 416-8 and the 520-8 dressed. Wheel weights, chains, 48" blades. The Horses are happily excited. What's with that?
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2 pointsElectrical lock nuts come in steel and aluminum, you may need to go to an electrical sippl house to find the steel ones. I think I shared a picture of mine and contributed to @Hacksawhero123 delinquency!
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2 pointsto red square............. The first part sounds like a weak fuel pump - tank is under the seat and it takes a bit to get the fuel to the carb - had the same problem and put an electric pump on...problem solved..however...it could be something else entirely..others will chime in.. it won't turn over if the safety switches aren't made - make sure the pto is disengaged when starting ( has a seat switch too )
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2 points
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2 pointsA soft wire wheel on a cordless drill, brake cleaner, and a microfiber cloth. Used the kohler manual for torque spec and sequence. I really thought those bolts would give me a hard time I was prepared for the worse, but it was literally like butter. Will do, that actually slipped my mind about the retorque lol. I got the carb off and few other things too that I gotta take care of.
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2 pointsRemember to redo the torque on the head bolts after it has run for an hour or so.
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2 pointsCraig says it's OK.....if he was displaying a SMV sign.
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2 pointsYou should be reading about 14.4 VDC. Not sure why you see VAC, but some some simple rectifiers can put out a pulsed signal that will look like VAC to some meters. Just a thought. For the Light Bulbs. The 520H bulbs are no. PAR36. There are LED bulbs available. See superbrightleds.com
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsStill 65 F here this morning, but I just saw one forecast for 8-12" starting in 12 hours go figger ? I did fill the tanks, check the oil, and hook up the chargers on the snow team.
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2 points
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2 pointsNapa RuGLYDE will clean and refresh the rubber, scrub them first and then apply this stuff and bag them up for a week and let it soak in.
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2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsA case of "don't try to reinvent the wheel" (horse) for sure! Have blown heavy snow with our C-81 for years... Our C-141 has more power but the 81 is still my favorite.
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2 pointsUnless you have absolutely nothing else to do,why bother?? Both are great tractors just the way they are.Just my opinion.
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2 points
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1 pointD-648 is the Delco replacement and will work just fine. When it comes to finding engine parts for your you need to use the engine manufacturers manuals.
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1 pointModel number 73400 or 73402 off the decal under the left side of the seat would help. Plus a 59xxxxx, 69xxxxx or 79xxxxx serial number is 1995, 1996 and 1997 respectively. The ignition is self-powered and seldom fails. The ignition is shorted to ground to shut the engine off so that is how the safety switches function. One half of the pto switch and clutch pedal switch control the starter circuit. The other half of the pto switch and the seat switch control the ignition. You most likely have two unrelated problems. Will look for wiring diagrams after the numbers are determined. Garry
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1 pointI don't have flames or glowing on the Predator stack but I have melted the lock nut on the fitting closest to the engine. As you can see in the photo it almost looks like Teflon tape on the threads.
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1 point
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1 pointAlways a Kohler nut. The Onan in my 520-8 changed my thinking . Sounds like a Harley. Good luck with your "new" 520-8!
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1 pointAldon, I think its high time the forum awarded you a doctorate in GT 14 Studies!!! From this day forward, you shall be properly addressed as Dr.Trimble!!!
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1 pointwell using hydro to throw snow is actually ideal. you can have engine full rpm and creap with the hydro levelr slower than you can with the 8 speed. now i know the 8 speed low 1st is pretty slow in first place lol and having a 16hp hydro would take care of it
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1 pointJust way easier than swapping out the blower for the blade. We had some wet snow today and it wasn't shooting out the blower very well. I turned off the auger and pushed some piles with the blower. I clean a long driveway which is easy but the parking area is 40' by 70' and I can shoot snow that far in any direction. After a couple passes I start getting into snow I blew over there and that's no fun. Thinking a poly blade would be a nice option to clip on the front. If it's foolish or won't work that's fine. I've had many worse ideas.
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1 pointI would be very suspicious of the new owner also. Maybe call the original owner and get his version of the sale and his opinion of the new owner. He may also be willing to fess up to any problems with the tractor since he has sold it. Also, how did the new owner get your number?
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1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointWell, your Suburban really looks good in the photo, especially for using rattle cans. You did a great job. I just wondered if you had sanded and buffed it.
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1 pointWell thanks to Richard and Craig's help I've made some, the only problem was the plate I had was thicker and didn't want to bend even in the press so I ended up cutting and shutting but I think they look ok He's a couple of Picts before I stripped it down It won't let me add any more photos !
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1 pointI've done a couple loaders, the first one was on a D160, it ran great but was a little too much around the yard. I later retro fitted that loader to a 520. My son liked it so much, I built him one too! The second one came out better, I was able to pick up a 520 roller with gear reduction steering for the build.