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Just got this 701 home. Nice addition to my collection. Always wanted one.

The other day I was very fortunate to purchase a very rare to UK RJ58, I am currently at university but I am planning to do a full overhaul and restoration during the summer. She needs a hell of a lot of work but I can't wait to start. Since y'all like photos, here are some from when I bought her. Here's one on arrival, only way to move the pallet was with a digger .

Well, it's little, but for some reason, I just felt that it absolutley had to happen. So 40 bucks later after visiting a tractor supply and a home depot, I came up with this! JUST KIDDING and if you have a keen eye, you'll notice the zip tie holding the flapper on(Only did that for the picture). I mounted it and it only lasted 5 minutes. Cheap chinese junk....just gotta find someone with a welder, and it will be as good as new. I like the stack. Sounds cool, and about the same volume as the old muffler that was on it. Now I just gotta get both headlights working and mounted again, and then I need the dash tower welded because it's been broken from years and years of only plowing. It was ordered with no mower deck, and has been that way since new. Just got a new float for the carb the other day, because the 50 year old one finally failed, but probably my most reliable tractor. Starts every time (except for when the float went bad)

My dad has owned one since about 1990 and from when it was new until around 2005 it mowed 4 acres every 4 days or so with the 60 in deck. At around 1500 hours the engine was rebuilt(not cheap) but now it has around 2300 hours. no major issue ever. I bought mine last fall of 2015 and love it. As far as prices, they are not excaclty cheap. Mine was 1,400-including 3 point, a 3 point disc,front 54" snow blade,rear wheel weights and a sleeve hitch brinly plow and factory option foot control. Personally i think i did fairly well on price with all those attachments. As far as the best years, i would prefer an 1984(more rare) over and 1982 because of the hydralic valve placement, but both dads and mine are 82's. Love the c195s, just the biggest thing would be trying to find a rear fender. Mine is not broken, dads is cracked in a couple places. The hydros are strong and the engines are to, I love discing the garden with mine, the picture is of mine, it is also a snow pushing beast!

Here a few to be getting on with

Hey guys! I've had this wheel horse of mine for about 6 years now and I've always been curious if it's a common model or if it's more of a not so common thing? I understand that the only difference is they came with a Tecumseh engine instead of the Koehler correct? When I got mine the Tecumseh was long gone and had a princess auto engine on it. I've since updated it back to a k301. Just curios if any other members got these tractors! And of course some pics

Saw this one a couple years ago.....Word was from this guy that Wheel horse ran short of Kohlers, so Tecumsehs were used to fill the void.

Your son Emory and all of us at RedSquare hope you have a Happy Birthday!

My first , a C-120 w/ HH120 Tecumseh.

The way this one is, I'm not surprised. one tiny tack weld kept the two pieces together. I know, isn't that the worst pic ever?

I believe the C-121 in question is an 8 speed. I didn't see the C-120 so I can't comment on that one. There is a slight difference in a C-120 and a C-121, basically the placement of the fuel tank. The C-120 will have the fuel tank above the engine, under the hood, while the C-121 will have it beneath the seat, under the fender deck. I like the fuel tank underneath the seat myself, but your fuel pump has to be in good working order with the fuel tank there. But, I do think both the C-120 and C-121 will have fuel pumps. Pictures of the aforementioned C-121. I just now noticed it has a couple of horns..... BTW, the roller is included in the sale.

George, There are Wheel Horses in your area, if you're patient. There is one now on your local CL, a C-121 that's more reasonably priced. As others have mentioned, there is something amiss about the tractor and/or the sellers.

I'm not an expert on C-195's,although I have 3 of them.Things I have found out since owning them.Chintzy plastic fender pan.Hard to find front wheel bearings.Seat adjuster and seat mounting is a little fifferent than other Horses.Mule drive is a little different{has only one pulley}.On the plus side,big 15 in rear wheels.Comfortable for bigger people.Easy to work on like other Horses.Tons of power,and I mean tons.I'm sure others with more knowledge wll chime in.I paid like 3 hundred each for 2 kinda rough ones.I paid 1 thousand for a real nice one that needed zero work.

Here's a little inspiration.

Great question and of course there is no correct answer because it is SO open ended, but of course that's why it a great question for this forum! I'll attempt an answer by pointing out what I think were ground breaking offerings by Wheel Horse and let others comment. 953/1054 Gt14 D series C-195 xi series And a mention of the 260/270 series I must add 2 more cents for the newcomers, skip all of these and buy a "Classic", early B, any C, any 1 1/8" axle 300, 400 or 500 because they are great machines, bargains and parts and attachments are plentiful! 50 years plus, still strong and many will be around when I'm long gone.

Well I found a 312-8 locally yesterday in good shape so I went to look at it with the wife. Long story short she dropped me off and I drove it 4 miles back home. It is a strong runner and only took almost an hour to get home after a few short cuts through the town park. The picture of her at home under the deck till I can get her inside.

They made C-160s with Tecumsehs as well. As I have the story, there was a strike going on at Kohler, and engines were in short supply. Wheel Horse went to Tecumseh to get enough engines to keep production up. In '74, the C-120 Auto and 8-speed were available with the HH120 and the C-160 8-speed was available with the OH/HH 160 ohv engine. In '75 the C-120 auto and the C160 went back to all Kohler power and the C-120 8-speeds with the Tecumseh were given the C-120 Special labels. As you see in my picture, the front of the hood is raised up to clear the taller ohv engine. Unique hood hinges for the '74 C-160 with the Tecumseh.

Looks like fun. Take a look at your B1260 thread. We have a few Clinton manuals in the Manuals section (engines/0ther).

The motorcycle clutch pack and chain drive is a unique feature. It looks like you have a good basic starting point though. I will be looking forward to seeing the resto.

T-Mo and Brandon have pretty much answered all your questions, but I will just add my . I have never seen much difference in the shaker mounts and the solid mounted engines. And I believe WH also found this to be true and discontinued the design due to the higher cost and little benefit. The hydro vs 8 speed is a much discussed hot topic. My experience... for the snow blowing and plowing that I do which is 4-6 paved driveways that are 100-200' long and a stone road that is 300' long. Much of the area is confined by buildings, garage doors, and vehicles requiring many changes of direction and lifting of the plow or blower. So, for my use, I would not even consider using a gear drive or a manual lift. If I were clearing a 1/4 mile long drive with no obstructions, a gear drive would work as well. I believe the snow throwers perform better with less clogging if the auger speed is kept at max RPM and the forward speed is varied to keep the blower housing full of snow. This can be done very well with a hydro. Not so easy with a gear drive. I might add, I have forward/reverse foot controls on all my hydros which allows one hand on the steering wheel and one hand on the lift at all times. I also see a big advantage in mowing with the hydro and lift as I mow around 30 trees with exposed roots. The hydro allows me to slow the speed and lift the deck as I approach and mow around the trees. For operating heavy duty ground engagement equipment and pulling or mowing a large field, I would opt for a gear drive. The gear drive is less likely to fail and is less expensive to repair or replace. There, you got the whole 99 cent cone .

What is the model number and year of the C-series, and the model number and year of the B-series? Any 1974, 75, 76, and 77 C-series will interchange with the same year B-series Uni-Drive transmission. The 1978 and later C-series had a tall dipstick tube which can be removed and replaced with a short one from the B-series, or plugged with a 1/2" npt pipe plug.

I spy another calendar shot.

Other than engine size, absolutely nothing. Go get the 120's and then spend time searching for your K-341 (16 HP kohler). There are a few things too look out for when shopping for a K-341 from different eras or other brands, but most will be a direct swap. When you blow up the 12 hp, swap in your 16. Voila, C-160 Heres what you will find: there is not much that a 16hp kohler can do that a 12hp cant. Especially almost everything you listed there which is drive based, so as long as you have the 8 speed you could do it all with 8hp. The extra 4hp will only make a difference when you are blowing deep snow or running a 48" deck in grass you should have cut the week before. Most of the time you will never notice other than the fact you will use less gas! Go get'um, post some pictures and let us know how much you love them!

my 2 cents -- if something smells fishy it always is

So 2 Saturday's or so ago I posted that I had retrieved the GT14 that Russ @SALTYWRIGHT let go to a new home. To keep the Provinence documented it came to Russ from Fireman. The reason this is the second haul is that earlier that morning I had delivered a D250 to @fast88pu So after pondering this tractors positives and negative(not many) ive decided to tear into it a bit and do focused restore. I'll swap out anything along the way that is marginal but mostly just assure everything is tight and in ship shape. I will be using the independent 3 point as template to make a couple more set ups. As I was pulling this out I have noted the cam assembly on front of Hydro is loose which helped me make the decision to do a limited deep dive. This thing looked good. Hopefully by late spring it will look even a bit better. One thing I noted right away is that it had a stock style Nelson Muffler. So I managed to get it off without damage and hit it lightly with sandblaster to remove rust and hit it with 1200 degree paint. I seriously need a bigger trailer so I can bring these tractors to the Sow for "Show & Tell". Lol I wasn't going to post on this tractor but figured a few updates along the way rather than a detailed day to day would be nice compromise. not to mention these Nelsons are cool. And muffle sound way better than the pepper pots or whatever are common replacements these days. a few pics....

I personally like the "estate" tractors, like the GT-14. One of the reasons why John Deere has been so successful in the L&G market is their larger GTs, like their 400 series. These and others brands in this size have been called Super Garden Tractors. Many here in the "red" world may not know this, but the John Deere 140, which is the same size as most GTs of that era, was designed to be an "estate" tractor. Deere had the Farmall Cub in mind when they designed the 140, but Deere wanted it to be a smaller size so it would appeal to a broader market. The 140 was an instant success. But, when Deere when back to the drawing board in the '70s, the 140 got replaced by the 300, but lost one spool of hydraulics, but at the same time, Deere introduced the Super GT, the 400 which had the triple hydraulics of the 140H3, but added power steering and the tractor gained some inches and some weight, about 200 to 300 pounds worth. In fact, the 400 has the heaviest frame built in a Deere Gt, including the 420 and 430 which came later. Cub Cadet didn't make a Super GT until years later. The GT-14 was probably more of an answer to the John Deere 140, while the D series was more of a Super GT inline with the JD 400 and other Super GTs of the '70s. Myself, I would like to have a 953/1054, but would also like to have a GT-14 or a D series. And since seeing a C-195 in person at @wh500specialSteve's father's house back in September, I wouldn't turn one of those down either.

Here's my Harbor freight high lift motorcycle stand with a few mods. I could not lift tractor high enough to put on my table so I added 6" . It removes with 2 bolts and slides right out, steel plate on top also comes off with 4 bolts, Shown lifting my 1054 off my table. I have also cut open the bottom of the table and installed some 4"pvc pipe to hold misc. steel stock, also cut a rectangle for other steel. More to come as I am reorganizing my garage again after seeing some of the great ideas here.

I would be very suspicious of the new owner also. Maybe call the original owner and get his version of the sale and his opinion of the new owner. He may also be willing to fess up to any problems with the tractor since he has sold it. Also, how did the new owner get your number?

I have to say I never hoped to find a 520h and now another followed me home. 550 hours on the clock.Owner was asking $350.

I don't even know what a WT is...................dang,,,,,,,iim getting old???

Thanks, I sure do but first that clutch will have to go

Hydro vs 8 speed is often a personal preference. You can search out lots of competing threads on the matter. Hydro: Hydro lift is nice, and totally variable drive. It is hand lever controlled, some like it some dont. If using a tiller it can be pushed forward a bit and can be harder to control. Gear Drives are simpler, and easier for the lay person to redo. They have set speeds and wont be pushed forward for tilling. Hand lift for implements is hard if you have heavy things like tillers and snow blowers. Here's what I prefer and many others share: Hydro is best for mowing, towing, lifting heavy things. Gear drive is best for single speed projects like tilling and things where you have to maintain certain heights of implements like grading. Ha @T-Mo, we did it again. I will add one more thing. I would have one of each...

Hydraulic lift is nice, if you're lifting a front blade, or a moldboard plow, or a snow blower. But, it's not that hard to manually lift a front blade or a mower deck with manual lift. Plus, hydraulic lift will add more maintenance woes if the lines, fittings, cylinder, valve or pump start to leak. It is sort of a luxury item that can be a headache if problem arises, but also can be almost a necessity for certain heavy implements. How's that for riding the fence? Personally I like hydraulic lift, but I also like to use my tractors for more than just mowing or using a front blade. I like to use them for plow days, etc.

That's a good point Terry. I've heard that's how the 754 came about. They ran short of K-181's so they made some with a K-161.

Some people think it robs power, some people think it shakes more. I think with good isolators it works great. Instead of having the engine mounted straight to the frame, the engine is on a plate that is mounted on rubber isolators. All older machines were direct mounted, all machines 1985 and newer were direct mounted. I think people didnt see enough benefit for the added cost in manufacturing.

You get a roller too, cool! Looks to be pretty solid. I am pretty sure the belt to the mower is wrong though, it looks too small and there seem to be a few too many twists between PTO and mule pulleys. I personally like the under-seat fuel tanks as well. Just a note with the C-121 is that it has a shaker-plate mounted engine (just like the black-hoods C-xx5). Some people hate them, I like them. However, they will likely need replacing. You can replace them with solid pieces or go with the rubber mounts from toro ($$$). If you replace the engine you will need one with the shallow oil pan (Usually denoted by an A in the engine number, eg K-341AS). If she runs strong then you cant go wrong there.

Thank you. 702 is the next tractor I'm looking for besides a 1045.

what a beauty Aldon!

VERY nice 701.Also one of my favorites.I have a 702.Not exactly the same,but close.Have fun with your new toy.

Ed is great on wheeler dealers. I gave up on F-&-L years ago. They all end up the same way...like American Choppers did. Producers push all the shows that way, and then it's not about the builds anymore. Crappy TV in my opinion. I cut the chord on cable over two years ago, and don't miss these shows at all. Even Boyd Codd. got annoying to me..that show became all about running the shop, and not the builds as well. Couldn't stand Rawlings from the get-go.

the entire state of Virginia,,,,,,the closest was 1 1/2 hours...........and i only know about 6 Horsemen in the whole state............4 miles....pppfft !!!!! loloololool Craig,,,,,Now I've seen it all... waite !!! Not going to say it,,,,,,Never know what tomorrow brings !!!!

Don't scare me like that Tom. That first pic had me WT..

Just, don't paint it green.

The GT14 easily compares if not outright beats all other wheel horses if compared against each other in pristine condition. They were the beast of their time. They are heavy ~900-1200# depending on implements, weights and tire fill etc and make great workers or loader tractors. But as they were expensive and built like tanks it seems that as they are coming onto market these days most have been ridden hard and put away wet. Implements are specific for them and can be a challenge to locate. I modified a couple to use the more modern attachment system and implements which resolves that issue. They can be a bear to disassemble and put back together. Like a jigsaw puzzle. The hydros are not weak but after 45 years they may need maintenance like any other item that wears. Once the hydros have been dealt with they appear to be significantly strong workers. Fast88pu and 953nut use theirs with loaders. I know Fast88pu works his hard. So much so I'm sold on putting a loader on one of mine. They don't turn as tight as lighter or short frame tractors. So if you mowing large expanses they are good to great. Not so much for a 3rd of an acre lot with shrubs etc. Rather than pick a tractor, choose your intended use and then pick the tractor that best fits those needs. A gattling gun is awesome and would certainly kill a rabbit but would not be ideal hunting implement for that task. I do fancy them and have owned 7-8 or so. Once they have been put in ship shape, they are awesome.

So, I'm good to go.

The topic was related to being addiction; heck no, driving four miles is quality seat time and an opportunity for you and the new horse to bond. However, bring a new member to the herd and leaving it out in the cold is unconscionable!

A total stranger willing to take a $ 150 hit for you would make me suspicious too. Do the checks @Sarge suggested as well as the hydro test. Good luck.

With all this talk of 520-Hs lately and the numerous threads currently on them, I went out yesterday to the garage and started my 1995 520-H. It started right up with no problem. But, then I went out and bladed the gravel in the driveway with the '88 416-8 and my Brinly box blade. Life is good when you get a decent day, a couple of hours of "ME" time and running, working tractors with implements. I also have a 416-8 with a Kohler Magnum with over 3600 hours on the meter. See my comment earlier in this post about using it to blade the driveway. At $100, you stole yours.......