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I haven't seen this so someone let me know if its been done before please. I removed lower brake band bolt and fabbed a small plate that swings up or down. Depress brake and swing it down, brake is locked. Swing it up when ready to go.

I usually don't watch Fast and Loud due to Richard's attitude and the foul language, so I missed it. I usually watch Wheeler Dealers, Chasing Classic Cars and a few other automotive shows (and American Pickers). I guess I have to see when this particular Fast & Loud show is on and see if I can spot the tractor.

Just about the only decent program on tv...tv - the amazing wasteland - .....

I bought my b80 and didn't tell my wife and she never knew the difference with all the red ones in my garage. Please don't tell her guys. Because I'll deny it.

I have been finding lots of great people and info since being here and have decided to take the plunge and become a supporter. I dont think for the price you could be a part of such a great forum anywhere else. Its certainly worth it to me. Now is someone going to administer on oath or buy me a coffee or something? Thanks for having me.

Had to wait for paint to dry ! Here it is installed. Have trouble with close ups. I shake a bit. Good for doing points bad for pics!!!

That seat is original.I think I can get that seat back together as the cover just pulled out and the trim needs to be set back. In fact this entire machine is original. I need to run the numbers but it is an 88 or 89' 520 HC. Been sitting inside for at least 5 years as the po passed and his son sold it. Has a very nice 60" deck too. I am sure this one will clean up real nice!

Here are the spindle washers that I made for the top of the spindles which consume the large space between the top of the axle's spindle bore and the clip ring. I had to grind down the washers to thin them out and then polished them a bit with 100grit on a wheel. This I feel protects the steering in two ways. It dramatically limits the amount of debris that can get into through the top and grind away at the axle and spindles and also limits any pounding of the thrust bearing at the bottom. Fully Assembled and tie rods adjusted. Close up of the washer... I also added a couple of rubber hub caps from the normal 6" rims of the 312 but they are new. They didn't have black so I figured that grey was the next best thing because of the rim color. I had to heat the caps up a little and then they stretched on nicely and I was able to pop them down pretty far.

Helping a friend to move at the weekend and found this seat in his garage and thought it would look better on one of my wheelhorse's and its colour coded

Look me up at the Big Show and I`ll buy you that coffee...( might want to make that a soda, it gets pretty warm there the end of June) If you need something to cut it with, we may know someone...

Anybody else see this? Watching the new episode of Fast 'n Loud last night. Richard bought a deserted piece of property that had a bunch of cars 'buried' in the back yard. He got Dennis to buy two of them. To get to the 2nd car they 'moved' a 520-H (? - appeared to be a 60" deck). Of course the WH was considered to be junk. They hooked a chain to Dennis's Jeep an drug it out of the way rather vigorously.

Dear Lord, slim67 will be undergoing delicate spinal surgery tomorrow morning. Please guide the surgeon's hands to be steady and effective to do the task at hand, and not create any further damage We pray against any infection or complications. Calm the heart of his family. Give slim67 your peace so his body can heal under the best conditions. In the name of Jesus, bless slim67 to be healthier after this procedure than before. Lord allow this temporary trial to bring this family closer to you and each other. When he is coming out of surgery, let the side effects be minimal. Work a miracle in this whole situation and bless it from beginning to end. Thank you Lord for your blessing on this family. We praise you as we know we are in good hands- the very hands of God. In Jesus name, we thank you for each day. Amen.

Well, it has taken me awhile to get this posted - old age, illness in family etc. . Don't really have a good progression of pix, but I know that any pix are welcome ( I too, like to look at the various pix )...My son did the heavy liftiing on this swap, and it went really well..I used some of the tips that I had read about here on RS, and appreciated them all.. I just have one or two to add: the steel hydraulic line on the pump needed a little more room so we cut out a little sheet metal where it contacted it.....per bmsgaffer instructions I left the filter loose while filling with oil - it never did run out on the floor and it filled up nicely..no comparison to the eaton 700 - it will now pick the front wheels off the ground at about 3/4 throttle...so, so strong...again, many thanks to richmondred01 ( I bought the unit from and he went the extra mile to get it to me ) and the others who chimed in...if anyone is interested, I made a seat prop out of simple 1/4 in steel rod that works really well..I really like this 516 -- now I need one of Matt's hydro pedal kits and it will be the berries..really good bunch of guys here on the Red Square..keep up the good work...

No wonder my "bushings" haven't gone bad! Of course last winter, and this one so far, the snowthrower has been doing anchor duty to keep the concrete floor from moving.

The 417-8 is an excellent tractor. I bought one last summer, and it is one of my favorites. I put a snow blower on it, and look forward to using it if we ever get a decent snow. The 417 was made in 1985 and 86. Most of the 86s had an electric lift, which is useful for a plow blade or snowblower. The 86s had a louvered hood, and the 85s did not. The Kohler 17 twins were the Series II, with better oil circulation. It's a good smooth running engine. The price depends on hours on it, and how well it was maintained. I paid $600 for mine with 490 hours on it, but had to put a lot of work and paint, and a little money into it to get it running right. Wiring was a mess, and kill switches missing. Go for it if it's in good shape at a reasonable price.

Came across this one and placed the winning bid. Don't often pull the trigger on workers but this one is my favorite model worker.

Thanks for all the prayers and support as it worked. Got out of surgery just fine and am looking to recover now. I should have a lot of keyboard time in the next few days. Im turning in as i just got home and am tired from anesthesia.

Totally in agreement with Richard being ... well a true RICHARD CRANIUM ... ! It's going to be interesting what's going to happen without Aaron masterminding the builds . What's funny is how Richard hasn't figured out why his builds don't bring in the $$$ at Barrett Jackson or any auction for that matter . I love watching him lose his arsh at the auctions. Maybe just maybe if he conducted himself in a better manner he could gain some respect from the car guy's . I too pretty much watch all the shows that have to with anything mechanical !

Congrats on becoming a supporter. Thank's for supporting this great forum.

Prayers just sent your way.

Gave bendy a workout today, got bogged to the axles a few times and if it wasn't for lots of lock to lock on the steering it wouldn't have made the slope. Gave me a good excuse to hose her down

It does somewhat work! Just don't over do it or expect the glaring obvious to go unnoticed.

It's kind of tight getting to the lower steering assy. front mount but just lean the hood forward and break them loose with a 9/16" wrench then use a socket on the back. Youll have to move the tie rod mount plate out of the way for each bolt. New lower steering assy installed. Hangs a couple of inches lower and it's a bit wider. But as I said, could be fabricated if you can't find one. Front view of the tie rod mount plate. A little dirty under... smh. You can see the slight backward angle of the lower portion of the plate. Wouldn't be that hard to tack it in place and then adjust the angle from photos and eye ball it. It's not a high performance vehicle or anything. Post install of the Axle, spindles, pin and plate assy and all hardware. It was all greased well while still up on in the air as advised before. I highly suggest doing this to get the grease into the needed friction points that you won't get to if you front end is on the ground when you grease it. And Finally the Rims. Bearings all packed and nuts locked in with hubs on. Will most likely will change these over to trailer hubs and rims in the future as I'm considering a FEL for this tractor with the addition of a 2-3 cylinder diesel IF I can find one for the right price and condition. Like I said... Still need the tie rod nut washers as the nuts bottom out on the threads. Probably pick those up locally tomorrow if I can. Here is my first welding project that I completed last week. It's the extension kit to go along with this whole project. Got the blade for $30 from a local hoarder. Good guy though. Great deal. Got the entire front and assy and the blade for $300. Had the frame with a old rusty 48" blade that I bent after catching a 1" raised driveway of a neighbors a month or so ago. Here is the blade. I decided to put a new wear bar made of 3/8" x 4" Steel. This should give the plow some arse to scrap well. Don't worry, I shortened it to 42.5". I drilled the holes and used to new carriage bolts for a smooth finish on that too. Shot is with the old FE.

Hey Fellas. Got a great deal on an almost complete front end off of 520h to go my 312-8. Everything is in really good condition. A tiny bit of play but not really bad at all. Nothing like my 90' 520h had on it before I replaced the spindles. I fabricated myself a plow extension kit last week before installing the front end today. I was sold the axle, spindles, good tie rods, lower steering shaft, lower steering support on both ends (front and steering tower areas) as well as the set of 8" rims with all working order hardware. I slap a new set of 16" x 7.5 -8" rubber on the rims, repacked the bearings and spindle thrust bearings and lubed everything after each piece was installed and still on the jack stands. Just have to pick up the tied rod washers and adjust the tie rod lengths and she'll be in fully operational order. Only thing left will be to build a new angle adjust handle for the plow and I'll be done. Figured I'd offer up some progress photos. Enjoy! Pre install... (excuse the clutter still working on that. Summer time will get er done!) New (used) axle, spindles and rims with all hardware. Pre tire removal. Was letting the soapy water sit on the beads for a few before replacement. Makes a world of difference. Really lets the tires slide right off the rims and the bead breaks with ease after only a couple of minutes of sitting with this solution on it. Dawn dish soap! Gotta Love it! New Rubber on... Will refinish the rims this summer. And I will be breaking the bead and using paper to cover the tires. No more painting rims with the tires off. ha ha. Pulled the old 312-8 tie rods with a 1/2" OE wrench at the top of tie rod end and 9/16" wrench on the bottom. Pulled the 1/2" Retaining bolt for the axle pin and plate assy. as well as the C-clip for it form the front. Dropped the whole front end out of the tractor at this point. Didn't even take the rims off. Trying to keep time down. Pulled the battery and steering column pin and lifted the steering wheel shaft out of the way to get the lower column support. Removed the two 9/16" bolts/nuts for the steering wheel shaft and lower steering shaft support and pulled that out. Interesting that WH moved to a threaded cotter pin locked nut later in years on the lower steering shaft from just the cotter pin and washers on the 520h that I have. Pulled the two 9/16" bolts and nuts from the front lower steering shaft support. At this point the lower steering shaft assy. was completely free but I also had to take and extra step and remove one side of the mid tach-matic support assy. which allowed me to slip the lock and pin mechanism out so that the lower steering assy could pass by it. Also had to lift the tractor up a bit more for clearance of that stuff as I had to pull it down and to the rear to remove and install it. Didn't photograph that. But you can see the parts that need to be removed in the picture below. I just loosened the three 9/16" bolts on the top, right hand side of the photo. Old 312-8 Lower Steering Shaft assy with shorter tie rod mount plate next the swept axle's lower shaft assy. and the beefier tie rods. Big difference in placement. Could weld a plate I guess to the bottom of the old style with the right measurements and angle. For anyone that wants to take this route, let me know and I'll get the right dimensions with a sketch up of it all.

Ground down parking pawls (either the notched finger like pawl or the plain bail style) are all to common in Horses with Sundtrands. my charger 10 was no differ net. I welded up eh bail style and reinstalled it but realized right away that even disengaged it was dragging a little on the gear. Not nought to lock it up but it would make metal chips. Took a few minutes to ID the issue. Turns out the pin on the arm an rod assembly (#6130) had a groove worn in it so it didn't push the arm on the parking pawl down far enough to completely disengage it. I would also hazard a guess that there is some wear on the pawn lever it self that exacerbates the problem. Trying to decide if I should weld the groove up and file it to shape...but that leaves any wear on the arm unaddressed... or put a sleeve on the pin... thoughts???

Just watched it tonight....it was a 310-8. I wonder if we would still think they were rough on the tractor when they pulled it out if it was a JD or a Cub or a Craftsman. So among the cars he bought on the property where the WH was, was a King Midget (similar to the blue car) with a itty bitty 6hp Kohler for a power plant...if he was a true hot-rodder he could have stuffed that Magnum 10 from the WH right where the little 6 was, just saying! 😎 Mike.....

My wheel spacers are 1/8" steel band bent in a circle and welded together. To prevent scratching the paint, I slipped plastic door edge guard over the edges of the steel. Work great.

Like they did with the Pantera

Very nice! I am not very familiar with this set up but how easy is that to access once fenders etc are installed?

I'm in total agreement. I don't like Richard Rawlings either. I saw him on TV at the Barrett Jackson auction in Scottsdale a couple of weeks ago. He was dressed like a clown with gold shoes and weird jeans, acting all cocky with is big ego. I like all those other show you mention too. My favorite right now is Graveyard Carz. I may have to check out the current episode though, just to see the . I hope Rawlings didn't take it home with him. He'd screw it all up and then think it's worth a fortune.

Must have me mixed up with someone else. Nothing in my mug but coffee. Although I had more than my share in my younger days...

Used to be something called hardware stores that would have these things. Too bad most of them are gone. You might get lucky at a big box store. This is what you want

Dear Lord, Slim just forked out to be a supporter & he's a really good fella so please see what you can do for him with his back surgery. Amen

Howard, don't forget, the front end loader and removable steering wheell on Jays ride.

Both K17 engines are basically the same and use the same oil pump. Only main difference is the the rod bearings are pressure lubricated on the series 2. The first series was splash lubed by oil spray from holes in the camshaft.

I'm fairly certain you meant to say cup point. The dog point is used to hold the gear shifter in. Cup point Dog point

Nice score! It looks complete so that shouldn't be a problem. I would suggest the usual of: New drive chain. Check the shaft drive sprockets for wear. Check/replace auger bushings. Check/replace the bearings for the shaft drive. Check scraper for wear. Spare/new drive belt. Something you might consider doing is cutting a flat spot on the underside of the lift handle to make it easier to install the belt. I use a three foot length of 1/2" steel bar to lift the handle due to the awkward angle it is in and pressure it exerts. The flat spot prevents it from slipping while your fingers are between the two pulleys. It could act like a guillotine!.

Amen.

Most of us go to our favorite online Toro parts dealer. Mine is ProPartsDirect Click on the link and it will take you directly to the transmission parts page. Your gasket is a #3912.

Im going to have to write this stuff down and practice

The Lord will take care of you. Just keep your faith. Amen

My eyes!!! Another of those "...can't be unseen..." posts... Man - How am I gonna get to sleep tonight now?

You can buy it and store it at my house. No wait. If my wife won't let me have another tractor because we don't have the room to store it, what makes me think she'd let me store a fire engine? Never mind.

Will do.

God be with him- Al

Praying and agreeing in Jesus name for complete healing.

In Jesus Name........Amen.

Here's the flyer and some additional show info

Always a work in progress to try and improve things.