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Anybody else see the Wheel Horse Fire Engine for sale on ? Don't want to repost somebody else's pics here. It's near Pittsburgh PA

I had to get an MRI this morning about 45 minutes south of me. On the way back my dad wanted to stop by the tractor salvage yard we occasionally go to so he could get a small part for his lawnmower. While I was walking into the shop I noticed a nice set of 6-12 ags on wheels. When the owner said 50 bucks , I asked if he took credit card. Hard to find these used and in good condition. They will be for my Suburban project.

That is the optional Foot Warmer, on a very cold day you want those tootsies nice and warm.

Hello all, So I saw this tractor for sale... guy did half decent job swapping a Kawasaki JD motor in. BUT... check out the exhaust! Thats the best the guy could do? OMG! LMAO! Tony

you can't remember where they are. Old age!!! There was a question in the implement section asking for some pictures of a tiller mounted. I know mine is.... but where is it. I know it isn't in the shop, but she is usually down in the barn so i went down to snap a couple of pictures . Turns out she wasn't there she is up in the storage shed (I hope) but that is to far to hike in the wet snow today...besides it is packed tight and getting a picture would be hard.

Sold one of of my green lawn tractors and had enough left over after buying a model train I wanted, that I went out and bought this nice Commando 8, fully loaded with lights, cig lighter, nice rear discharge mower deck(not shown), original WH marked tires and a working slot hitch. He has the moldboard plow for it and he set it aside and I will pick it up once I have some more funds in my wallet. Its been awhile since I had a WH in the stable. I want to do some special autism touches to it. The paint and decals are super nice, except for the top of the hood and fender pan. I hate to loose the original decals and nice dealer decals in a full repaint. Thinking of having a decal made to cover the top of the hood in the autism rainbow jigsaw colors with "Autism Acceptance" in either yellow or white lettering in the middle of the top of the hood. Mike

It is possible that he is not pulling hard enough on the axle to pull it out...but if one axle is out a little, the other one can move in a little farther and give the impression that both are messed up. The 2 axles butt into each other in the differential and the snap ring keeps the axles from pulling out...that is your 1/8" of play. Pull one axle out 3/4" and the other one has nothing to butt into anymore and will have a little more slop. Either way, you have to open the trans to fix it. Drain the trans, remove the shifter, take the trans off the horse and place the input shaft side "down"...brake shaft side "up". Open the case and lift off the deeper side...you can now pull out the differential. There is no need to take out any gears, unless you want to clean out the trans. Notice that you are looking at the nuts on the bolts that hold the differential together...you want to be looking at the nuts again when you put the differential back into the trans case. Check for lose hubs first...like was said above.

I was looking for my Pawpaws GT-14's I know it's a long shot but they were sold at his estate sale back in 2011 in North Carolina after he passed. I've shown a picture of what they looked like, they're probably restored. Like I said, it's probably nearly impossible to find them but hey I tried

200 is fair price. heck the hoods alone can go up to 100 bucks so do the plows and decks 100 each depending condition. check engine for compression if it has compression it will run. if the crank free spins with no resistance then its blown up. still good buy either way

Hi Paul...the roll pin was 1/4" x 1 1/2". That is what they used on the early trans axles...those were 1" axles. You would have 1/4" sticking out on each side of the axle. You have 1 1/8" axles...I would think that the 1/4" x 1 1/12" roll pins would do their magic and not let an axle gear past them. I think that the 11 5/8" axle would be OK also. The roll pin would be better. Maybe grind a slight flat spot on the end of the axle, so the drill does not slide on you.

Step 1: Take some pictures of it, both sides and rear to front . . . then post them here, we'll be able to tell you exactly what model it is then; also post any numbers you see on the side decals (that's the model), . . . the serial number is on a small metal-looking tag usually on the dash tower or the seat pan. Does your tractor run OK, and how does it sound when you change engine speed ? All your manuals and Operating booklets are available here as a free download, you can also see pictures of all Wheel Horse models in the pictures section, listed by year. ** Tires are an easy fix, easy to remove and put on the wheels (the heavy metal in center of tire), and you can get the (black rubber) tires and the mounting of the tire to the wheels done at many places (like Discount Tire = lowest prices usually). Welcome to Red Square

Did he also rig the blade. How much heat does it take before blowing out the tire?

I am starting to wonder if he has a loose hub and it is moving in and out on the axle. I would think that a movement of 3/4" would drop the gear and keep coming out.

So I got tired of the wife complaining about the lack of TP in the bathroom so I took it upon myself to make something that will help alleviate the issue. She didn't even complain about the fact that it is pipe fittings.

Aldon I was thinking more on the year then the money. And yes I would post it if I didn't get it. This 702 ? Was never Advertised he mentioned he had another tractor in his basement and if I wanted it he would give me a package deal. I'll probably go and get it also. I'm a sucker for wheel horse's.

the parts alone are worth exponentially more than asking price abeit pabkage deal. I see meny of these questions whch should be non-questions. 200dollars. Anything beyond a few parts is gravy or icing o the cake. Either buy it or let the forum know where to do so.

hoods are same for 62 and 63. in 64 they were longer for the 854

looking where lift handle goes and the tank its a 753 or something else more pics would be easier to id

not a 701 although it looks to have a 701 gas can. The 701 has a solid grill with no slats, like the nut roasters, other indicators would be the 701 has a double belt guard and a double pully on the starter generator and engine. The Seatpan is also square, and could be red or white, the one in the picture is from an early 60's tractor. Good luck with whatever it is but looks like a mutt

Just when you think you have seen everything, this pops up. Once it has been seen it can't be unseen!

Cool looking set-up. I like it.

Actually that one has a theft prevention system installed. I put a Magnum 12 into a C-81. Wound up with the choke working backwards. Never put a label on the dash, so any self respecting thief will push the choke lever all the way up and she won't start cause that is run position

@curtishorsemanship to The gang here has made many a repairs from afar, so let us help you too!

Breednuts, A vender here ,Wheelhorseman1000,has everything you need to mount your tiller.He has new first quality parts.I and many here have bought from him.Just scroll down to the vender section and check out all he has to offer.Quite a selection of hard to find parts.JAinVA

If you, or a friend or relative aren't intimidated by mechanical things then this is going to be easier than you think. We have lots of good knowledgeable members who can walk you through repairs that may be needed. As Glen said, post some pictures and a little more information about the thins that do and don't work well and we will go from there.

It is hard to see anything in those pictures...you opened the transmission upside down. Being a 1054, if you have the correct transmission (and I think you do)...it is a Wheel Horse #5047. This means that you do not have spider gears in the differential...you have the bevel gear differential. This was Wheel Horse's more heavy duty transmission when compared to the #5025 (which had 4 spider gears). If you can turn one of the axles (by hand), and the other axle moves in the opposite direction, your bevel gear differential should be OK. I'm thinking, since you were moving snow, you were shifting fast enough between reverse and 2nd or 3rd gear and the fork gears are such that you are in 2 gears at once. This was common in these early transmissions. If you had opened the transmission from the other side, we could probably be able to see if that is the case. The first thing to do...loosen the lock nut and back out the 1/8" set screw so you can pull out the shifter. Then you can take out all the other gears. You will need to rebuild the transmission in the shallow side case anyway. Keep an eye out for 2 ball bearings 1/4". They are the detente balls, that go on each side of a spring with a stop in it, that go between your shift rails. No doubt, those 2 balls are loose in your transmission now that you took off the shallow side of the case. While the link above will show you a few things with pictures, the videos that will help more are in this link. Both links show transmissions that are a little different to yours, but they are basically the same. Your differential is different from the differential in either of these links. Your brake shaft comes out a different hole in the case in the link below. Take it all apart and clean it, I use diesel fuel in a paint tray if you do not have a parts cleaner. Take pictures of all the gears so we can see if something wrong stands out. Below is a good copy of the Transmission Manual for all Wheel Horse Manual Transmissions. You want to read Section II for your transmission. BTW...Welcome to Red Square.

Hi all, I recently purchased a 1964 Wheel Horse 1054 and have been fixing it up. The tractor was working great but then crapped out while plowing snow. Runs in neutral but when I shift into gear the motor is stressed and kills; it will go in reverse. When up on a jack and drive belt off the wheels move freely and I can shift and wheels and flywheel move easily in unison. Once I put drive belt on and run tractor while on jack the tractor will not shift, just grinds gears and then motor cuts out. The gears look to be in pretty good shape. Any ideas?

That looks like very fresh grind on the shown gear. Like SHYNON said, take out all the gears. Look everything over and show us some pictures. people here like to help Terry

I saw those, but don't have the best saws-all (it's a HF one) and couldn't justify a quality one for this project. I'm already into this room for too much time and money but it turned how my wife wanted so that's all that really matters. Have to keep the pregnant lady happy :). Happy wife happy life.

That may be a standard NPT size. I don't know for sure. If it is you could get a pipe plug and drill and tap it for the fitting.

Don't feel bad or foolish. Good topic with good information for future reference. Something always to be learned.

Other than the young lady swinging the hammer, I'm assuming this guy did the rest of the work? That's a lot of work. Been there. Looks like you did a fine job.

I've been in Scott's shop. and while amazing, it has the one flaw that most of ours have big or small. Once you fill it up and have to work on one you have to take it outside or roll a few outside, thankfully most have wheels. Scott, you have plenty of room east to extend, I'm just sayin' .

For years WH used roll pins to secure the axles.. then changed to snap rings. Roll pins seem to me to be more secure...never had one of those fail but have had some snap ring issues. Agree if there is a bur from teh snap ring wearing the axle it may take a lot of effort to pull it out all teh way.

Here is an image of the parts inside the differential. The snap rings are labeled "72", and the red arrows indicate where they are placed inside the assembly. They keep the axle from pulling out (in the direction of the blue arrow) by being placed on the inside of gear 70. If you are getting 3/4" movement (in the direction of the blue arrow) without the axle pulling completely out, I think that you've got more going on than just snap rings.

Best forum on the web right here. These guys have helped me more times than I can count with problems I ran into when I first got my 1277. Couldn't ask for a better group and proud to call myself a member here. When your decals come in and you get them put on...as always

Hello. Can anyone give me an approx value of a 1987 308? It runs great. Stored indoors. I have a receipt of repairs done to the tractor from the owners " get ready to sell" for $556.24 Thank you.

Found an 85 model 414-8 while doing my daily CL search today. Guy says it runs good and comes with a 44"??? (Thought they were either 42" or 48") deck. Asking 500. What's a reasonable price to pay for this tractor, haven't yet had any experience with these newer horses

Sooo. I'm trying to work on a transmission. Son says I'm getting to old to haul mulch by hand come spring. Me. Whatever! Two hours later and scrap laying around, he came up with this. Don't even have to get off tractor to hook up! What a guy!! Thanks buddy!!

Hmm... I have an old 702 tank in the shop that is missing the bung. I will take a look at the threads and diameter.

The original 102881 sealed beam is a common 4411-x. The -x identifies the type of terminal on the back. Some are push-on, some are screw terminals and some have both. They are rated at 35 watts @ 12.8 volts each. Your engine has a dual circuit charging system. One is about 3 amp and rectified to charge the battery. The other is unregulated and not rectified so produces AC current to power the lights only. For the lights to work the engine must be running and the higher the rpm the brighter the lights. These DC bulbs will work on AC current. To use led bulbs you would need to rectify the AC current to get the DC current required by leds. You could hook up any 12 volt DC bulb to make sure the flywheel stator coil is good before you invest in replacement lights. Garry

I have pics of this frame prior to powder coating showing this pitted areas filled in with the Lab-Metal, in a thread entitled: How To Make An 18 Automatic Into A 23 Automatique LSE bottom of page 1

Shear bolts sometimes have a groove in them to make it easier to let go and break. If you are using just a regular bolt, it might be a good idea to cut a groove in the bolt the width of the shaft. Here is a thread that I started a few years ago on shear pins from my Ariens walk behind. You can see the groove.

@hermitmanand @wallfish I saw something similar in a article some time a ago . Of course now I can't find it. If I find it I will post a copy. Hermitman your son's creation is a lot nicer. How did he curved sides and what gauge metal did he use. I bet you could sell some at the BIg Show.

Thanks Richard, I have a saved craigslist search for a big swath of Wa/Or. I waited about a about a week and a half after this was posted and was the only one who's talked to him. He pulled the add when I went to look. He is the second owner, and has owned it for 16 years, and knows exactly what he has. It's only for sale because he is in the process of moving from a sizable rural home to a smaller city lot. So after here we are: Who Doesn't like a little propaganda? Manuals for everything but the tiller.

A monstret project indeed, but the rewards are great. I have a D-200 here (in the UK) where I have used it for cutting grass since 1995. Sourcing parts has been challenging A few years ago the PTO clutch seized, eventually I got the parts and re-assembled it. But it never quite recovered and if my local mower shop cant fix it, I guess I will have to sell it on to someone with better mechanical skills. Shame as you get attached to the BEAST. A few pics for you to enjoy

Not exactly a horse. But one step closer to getting my step dad on the horse wagon! He needed a new lawn tractor and I just came across this one for free. Just needs the steering gear. So I will clean her up and give it to him.

After reading about the potato plows i thought i would post a set that i made here in the UK. Very similar looking but i made mine as a pair and adjustable height and width, I haven't used them yet but can add weight to make them dig in. i'll let the photos tell the story.

Nice score. And I would like to know more about the "Baja Tough" decal myself.