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Saw this on Facebook today and I thought it would be good to share here. It looks like it would sure get the job done!

Finished up the refurb on the 64" Allis Chalmers dozer blade the other day. Made and installed new wear edge for the blade and have installed on the BIG TEN ready for the next snow.

A while ago I pulled the K301 12hp out of the C120. My mechanic buddy worked it into his busy schedule and rebuilt it for me. . Early Christmas present for me. . I ever get a chance when I am not working I'll go pick it up. The C120 should really purr this summer mowing lawn.

Just finished putting the finishing touches on my first project, Here are the before and after pictures. One of my "Just Cuz" additions was using amber tail lights that are on a flasher for "Hazard Lights"

That's one way to get a tractor with a heated cab.

Hi guys my newly added C-81 came sans lights (first pic below) .... so I thought it would be easy to find a used light bracket WRONG .... so next best thing engineered one from a front set off an OLD Craftsman mower I had in my stash.... was surprised on how well it adapted some cutting, pop riveting and voila....... of course added all the lines and a 20 Amp fuse to onto the Accessory starter switch block..... Thought I would share this with you all..... Merry Christmas let there be light! P.S. also added a Cigarette lighting outlet (so I can easily add a rotating yellow danger light when pushing snow. Cheers

12-14-2005 King Kong remake debuts On this day in 2005, King Kong, a remake of the classic 1933 film of the same name about a fictional giant ape who climbs New York City’s Empire State Building, opens in theaters. The original King Kong, starring Fay Wray as the great ape’s love interest, as well as Robert Armstrong and Bruce Cabot, turned the larger-than-life gorilla into one of Hollywood’s most enduring icons. The 1933 film, which contains the now-famous line, “It was beauty killed the beast,” earned particular notice for its pioneering special effects. The film spawned a series of sequels, including Son of King Kong(1933), King Kong vs. Godzilla (1962), King Kong Escapes (1967) and King Kong Lives(1987). Born on September 15, 1907, in Cardston, Alberta, Canada, the actress Fay Wray appeared in some 90 movies during her career, but was best known for her role as Ann Darrow, an out-of-work actress who travels to Skull Island, where King Kong falls in love with her. When the giant ape is later captured and taken to New York City, he snatches Wray and climbs up the Empire State Building. Wray was reportedly asked to make a cameo in 2005’s King Kong; before that could happen, however, she died at the age of 96 on August 8, 2004.

Good question Callum, maybe some time when winter goes and the weather warms up.. Well, Why Not has had a quiet life for quite a while, just pushed out and in the workshop and not even started in a long while.. Until..... I had a video idea.. Stage 1. Get WN running again.. Stage 2... A Seasonal Special

If you get that stuck for room you can always put one in the dinning room, much nicer to work on in the warm and can even watch tv and its nearer the kettle.

I found the light assy's on an RV parts website. They also had chrome bezels to go with them but I passed on them. After I had bought them I was at a NAPA store in Boonsboro and they had the very same light assy's They are stair/ladder treads that I found at Harbor Freight. Tractor Supply had something similar but they were way too thick. Home Depot has the grit type so I bought a set and trimmed them and the Harbor Freight ones to the correct size then put one on one side and the other type on the other side. The wife thought the Harbor Freight ones looked the best. I was NOT about to disagree.

Sounds like an excuse to add on to the garage to me......

And.. I'm back. I never really left, been poking around off and on in between. Some major life changes over the last couple years. Applied for and got a new trade, I spent a year and a half in Ontario learning to be an Aircraft Structures Tech. Got posted and moved to Nova Scotia, not too far away but far enough. Two sons in college now, makes me feel old. Anyway, the old horse has been working like a charm. I am really in love with the little beast. Figured it is about time it got some love, so into the shop it goes for the winter... I won't lie, I actually like the worn, sun-faded, worked look. I still haven't decided if I will repaint or just give it a really good "take it apart and clean it". In any case, the engine will be tore down as it's smoking/leaking a bit. So new seals and take a close look at the internals. Some new dancing shoes will be in order, I'm not sure the front ones will even survive being removed from the rims they are cracked/checked that badly. Anyway, I'm not in a rush. Don't need it until mowing season which is some months away now in the frozen north...

A video with Chris and Norm's grader blades in action

From the words of Larry the Cable Guy...Git'r Done !!!!

It's mostly red!

Almost done, if I get fed up with the stationary engine I can always fit a Clinton or Three.

I made a little progress this week, while it's apart I replaced the o-rings in the hydraulic valve and I've ordered an o-ring kit from "classic kitchens" for the lift cylinder. I got "Matt's" foot pedal installed this morning and I replaced the rear lug bolts with one of "Bob Maynard's" conversion kits. Also put a new valve and grommet in the gas tank and mounted it and I have most of the dash stand back together, I need to get the engine cleaned up and get it back on then get to work on the wire harness.

Welcome Drillbit. Got right under my skin you did. This is my B80. It's life story is very similar to yours. Decided to restore it. Obviously I am slower than the 7 year itch. second picture is where it sits now. Maybe I will get it finished one day. Enjoy yours and I hope your restoration progresses faster than mine. Marvin

Before I would go to all kinds of trouble to re-engineer one of those tents, why not build it a bit stronger like this one? truss forhttps://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/yard-buildings-outdoor-storage-accessories/yard-building-accessories/10-gable-ez-build-storage-building-frame-with-8-sidewalls/p-1444448793206-c-9565.htm?tid=-6317892249592687516 You can build that truss for 11 bucks 7 of them make a 10x12 building. Add that little tie joistat the notch in the floor and the entire frame for a 10x 12 is . You could also substitute a treated piece for the floor deck and also add 6 extra floor joists to the floor for 23 bucks and then your floor would nail at 12 inch centers for a super solid feel. Stay away from the kit mini barns--they are a ripoff. No reason that you could not lay out chalk lines and build the end panels and frames inside a garage. Figure the basic frame at 290 lineal ft. of 2x4 or add 6o extra feet of 2x4 for the stiff floor. At $.25 a lineal foot that figures at about 75 dollars and 90 dollars respectively. You will need one sheet of treated plywood at the door and the rest can be exterior grade non-treated. You can get a 3/4 inch treated floor for 120.00 or a half inch for 107.00 if that is haw you want to roll.Add two treated runners 4x6x12 for a total of 50 dollars and then there is your basic frame for under $300 That gives you a whole bunch of money before you get to the kit price for a building like this http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/yard-buildings-outdoor-storage-accessories/yard-building-projects/midwest-manufacturing-e-z-build-10w-x-12d-gable-storage-building/p-1444422314146.htm. All you need to finish it is exterior sheathing and vinyl siding or just steel siding. Add roof sheathing and shingles for $200.

GT4. I would say get one of the tarp sheds to keep the truck in it. That way you do not need to clean off the snow. In the morning to go to work

A few Stallions might like looking around from high!

A few more progress photos.

Decided sanding and painting could wait till spring/summer. I am putting panels and plow back on in preparation for winter storms. Kind of stoked to see how it will do when a good snow hits. I did sand and paint front of plow more for function as it was degraded a bit.

I'm a little late to the party, but I've had my WH out in it 3 of the last 5 days. Admittedly the first day was really just playing around but Saturday, Sunday, and yesterday were to do real work. This is my first year with a blower. I love it. It worked great on the powered stuff we got last week and then yesterday it did a fine job throwing much wetter stuff. Looks like we're getting more as I type so I might have cause to get her out again tomorrow. Seeing those cabs makes me very jealous. I've got a 700' drive where the wind dependably blows from the house toward the road. I can get 1/2 way down the drive in either direction, but the more exposed half (closer to the house) seems to give me a face full every time I try to blow snow as I approach the house. I'm too stubborn to just drive back to the house with the blower off so I get one of those ice-cream headaches every time I crest the small hill approaching the house.... Here's a not great photo clearing out in front of the neighbor's mailbox.

Couple years back I took a Dodge dually in for an alignment. Sat in the waiting room for about 3.5 hrs, finally went up and asked the owner of the shop what's taking so long. His reply was we are waiting on parts all four of your ball joints are shot...we are surprised you even made it in. I told him you know what you might be able to scam others like that but you aren't gonna get to this guy...I had just replaced upper and lower ball joints on both sides THE NIGHT BEFORE. So yes you have really got to watch some of these shops around as they will try to get to you and make a buck

Only 92 hours on it.

Hi all, I'm new here. See pictures of a 1977 B-100 Wheel Horse that I grew up with. My dad bought this brand new when we moved to a farm in 1975. It has been through 3 of us sons, mowed a hell of alot of grass and I even made a snow blade/pusher out of 2 pieces of 5" channel welded on top of each other that bolted to the back of the hitch of this fine machine along with a set of snow chains. Did a great job. The old Kohler engines are monster tough. This is is going to be my winter restore project. Still runs great. I have been bitten by the wheel horse bug. I am having a tough time finding the rear tires though. 22 x 7.50-12. Any alternatives?

I recently posted about adapting power steering to my D-180 using an electric power assist steering (EPAS) unit from a 02-07 Saturn Vue. I got one of the units in order to check if I would be able to 'stuff' it in under the dash of the D. You can get these things in different configurations, this one had the steering column attached (its not needed) With this and Sarges recent post on improving the axle and its components on the D's, the dang thing will steer itself!! After removing the wheel, I needed to try and get it to fit under the dash, with a bit of experimenting I found a near perfect spot! So next we have to get the EPAS to function - It will not work since it no longer has the cars computer to "talk" to it. To fix this a fella on ebay has a 'controller box' that when wired into our EPAS it can work. His link is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Saturn-Vue-Ion-Chevrolet-Equinox-Electric-power-steering-controller-box-EPAS-/182283275302?hash=item2a70ee0c26:g:uVAAAOSw4GVYJv77 So then it was time to get the shafts cut to length and adapted to accept the shaft of the Ross system. The longer shaft is steering wheel side and is cut off pretty short to accommodate/adapt the D's wheel. I had a spare Ross steer shaft and cut the splines/threads plus about 1/2-3/4" excess and made an 'adapter' to mate it to the EPAS shaft using roll pins. The other sides shaft was already pretty short but I still lopped off about 3/4". I then bored out the square end of a 3/4" shallow 1/2" drive socket to fit over the other EPAS shaft, again using a roll pin to attach. This was in order to allow some leeway when I cut the Ross shaft to match up with the EPAS. Next we have to wire the controller box into our unit --- and this part is critical for it to function! (I know because I messed one up) Mounted on the unit is a metal box (ECU) containing the 'brain' for it. This will have to be removed and "remoted" elsewhere and here is where caution is needed - there are 4 very small wires from the motor to the box (2 white & 2 blue) these are hard wired and will have to be cut or de-soldered. Re-connecting the sequence is critical!! With the wires being so small and short and not having any experience with small wires I had problems here (this is where I messed up) Not a lot of room in the area under the hood - I finally figured out how to get the ECU mounted. There is hardly any visible alterations to the external appearance of the tractor - just under the steering wheel is a short section of the EPAS visible, and the gauge for the transmission oil temp will have to be removed but thats it. The ease of the steering on the D now is incredible, with the tractor sitting unmoving on concrete is one finger, and driving it is --- well, again, incredible! Course I dont have a FEL or plow, etc but I feel like this mod would also drastically improve the steering also. Am not familiar with the other big tractors enough to comment on this mod being possible but you guys sure ought to do a little research on it. I have a 4x4 Mitsubishi with FEL and thats my next venture with this, it doesnt look promising to fitting on it but it didnt look possible on the D til I got to tinkering with it!! edit to add a late suggestion-- When you get your EPAS and the controller box from Portugal set it up on the bench hooked to a battery to not only make sure it works, but also to get familiar with how to get a feel of what/how it it does. I didnt do this and I believe it would have benefited me a lot...

Plenty of wheel spacers on ebay.....

Not a 310. Looks a C-100 or C-120 or C seires of some sort. Could be a no name wheel Horse too. The decal on the side almost looks like a no name seires

While you have access to the drive belt tension pulley, check the shaft that the tension pulley is on. where the shaft goes through the hood stand, it wears the small thin bushing that goes through there. It also wears the shaft bad. Mine was wore so bad the bushing was nonexistent. The factory bushing is way to thin for that application. I drilled it out and inserted a way heavier oil impregnated bronze bushing.

The 94–7987–03 is the solid link and more expensive. It is a formed piece (as in the drawing) which is why the cost is higher. The floating link is more useful.

Thanks for the info @Lane Ranger! It doesn't look like mine will work on any thing I have. I guess I will just make it a wall hanger till I find a home for it.

Well i got my 6 horses all nice and toasty warm in the garage, and there all getting along just fine. I even can park my truck in there with them. Now my conundrum is do i park the truck outside and if i see or have a horse trying to follow me home do i take it,or keep the space for the truck.Geez i hate to pass on a horse!! Anyone want to throw in their 2 cents?

Go for an all steel carport 18'x21' installed starts $700 or with sides like mine $1200,Jeff.

Thank u sire i couldnt see the clip

Here are some detailed wiring diagrams you can download. Each circuit has it's own diagram so easier to follow. With a test light or voltmeter you can follow a circuit from the battery to see where the fault is. You should have at least 12 volts in any circuit that is turned on. A test light will be fairly bright on 12 volts and anything less will dim the light accordingly. The degree of brightness takes some getting used to but is effective. Don't forget the wires are only one half of a circuit. The grounds through the chassis metal back to the battery (-) are just as important for each circuit. For those following along this model uses the Kohler M16 engine with magneto ignition. A warning - do not allow any battery voltage into the ignition wire from the engine. The ignition is self powered and the ignition wire is simply grounded to the chassis to shut the engine off. This is accomplished by the ignition switch or the seat switch if the pto is applied (engaged) and the operator leaves the seat. At least that is how it is supposed to work. Let us know what you find and many can help you along. Garry

Dig the look of them old work clothes.

Axle seals for your trans...1 1/8" axles...seal is SKF # 11050 Brake shaft seal is .....1" shaft......SKF # 7410

Color that is most recommended is Rustoleum Almond.

It used the air blowing over the head to blow into the cab so their is always fresh volume of air blowing in and I also did this on top of the cab on the back. It also helps the windows not fog up.

Sounds like everyone has had pretty good luck with these little garages...thinking about buying one in the near future. We have a shed here at our new house but I am finding it to be not big enough...it's still in the works to be bringing home another Horse with tiller and as you can see I am running out of room in our shed. So may try one of these and see how it holds up to the Oklahoma wind. Snow isn't much of a problem here but the wind may be

WOW !! Great video Glenn. I would also like to take a tour of his shop. Thanks for sharing.

Looks like you scored a machine ready for all four seasons! Well done 👍 . Post up the specifics on the tranny issue in the Transmission section and these guys will be all over it with suggestions and great help! If you do end up needing to replace it scroll right down to our classifieds where we have a list of vendors with all sorts of WH stuff for sale including Sundstrand Hydro's. Good luck with your new addiction hobby . Mike......

I got the transaxle back together, here's a few pics of what I did. This is really a pretty simple process once all the hyd lines are out of the way, just unbolt the case and pop it apart. I collapsed the seals with a chisel and popped them out with a screwdriver then drove the bearings out with a bearing driver, then installed new axle bearings (Torrington J1816) and seals (SKF11124) and a new brake shaft seal (SKF7443). Putting it back together is pretty straight forward, just needed to make sure the 2 thrust washers were in place and I used a gasket from Toro (108312).

Materials we used were 2 pieces of 1/4 plate 48" x 7" a few bits of angle iron and rod from the scrap bin and a mounting plate from an old mower deck Heres a few more Just takes a few minutes to fit and first tests were very successful, we can use the blade straight or angle it either way

Should be more pictures! I'm at the point of just building one if I have to drive 3 hours one way and pay $350...

OK, got a minute to take a few pictures and measurements on the pole that attaches the SPR 42 snow plow to the RJ. It attaches to the frame with bolts that will go through holes drilled through the frame at 8' and 14" from the front of the frame. The 3/4" pivot points are welded to the Sch. 40 1 1/4" pipe and 3/4" washers are welded near the ends. Take a look and let me know if you need any more information.

The RESTO: At this point in any tractor restoration project, the formula is the same: inspect the parts for wear, decide if they need repair or replacement, then clean, prime, and paint... I wouldn't have to post these pictures but I know you guys too well {} Some of you may cry "Foul" that we didn't strip the frame further than this. However, dad and I made an executive decision at this point that we had it far enough for a tractor that had been restored about 30 years previous and had been stored inside ever since. It is always awesome when your shop begins to look like a "chop shop"--meaning that once you start hanging and painting all the detail parts it is such a good feeling. You know by this point that you are getting close to the super fun stage of any resto--THE REASSEMBLY! We went through every piece. Some items we have decided to paint red as they did it at the factory. Some of the items we opted to paint black or silver to give it a custom, detailed look. I had been watching Aldon's GT-16 resto and loved what he was doing there. We did some of the same types of things after seeing how awesome his turned out! Thanks Aldon for the inspiration! Then it is time to lay out all the parts and make sure that you have everything ready for assembly. How many times have you guys in the excitement of this phase of a resto, realized that you forgot to restore a certain key part that you needed to assemble your tractor and it held you up? Been there done that! In this photo you can see the borrowed cub air cleaner that dad got in 1978 from the parts bin at the IH dealer along with some others... Boy--This is a B-E-A-UTIFUL sight! Isn't that fresh Valspar IH red sharp when it is glossy and fresh? Assembly continues....