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Picked this up for my 856. Everything is there even the plastic bag all the paperwork came it. Pretty cool for 50 years old.

IMO I'm leaning more towards very early 56 but its so close I wouldn't argue it not to be a very late 55. I have another all original tractor with the 1200 184 engine serial #3648161 and its more of a late 1955 by its variations. The model numbers of the Clinton for the RJ35 are 1200 152 which is most of 1955, then went to 1200 184 and 1200 1184 (don't see too many of these 2) which is around the 55-56 change over, then the rest of 56 and 57 was the 1200 2184. It also changed to A1200 106 for early RJ58 and later RJ58/59 production was B1290 1107. Hope this helps and makes some sense....also posted some pics of the RJ very close in engine serial number to yours Clay

I have thinking I want one of these, so I have been sort of casually looking, on Craig's List and other online venues. I found this one. It's a bit far, maybe 3 to 4 hour drive one way. Supposed to be a 1995 with 998 hours on it. Price is not bad. Says it's a nice unit. I sent them a message asking for some more info. Maybe I can talk the wife on us making the trip to bring it home.

This what it looked like when I pick it up about 5 years ago. As you can see it was at it`s end. The engine was so bad they almost went .030 over on the bore. And the video today.

12-1-1953 Hugh Hefner publishes first “Playboy Magazine” By spring 1953, Hugh Hefner—a 1949 University of Illinois psychology graduate who had worked in Chicago for Esquire magazine writing promotional copy; Publisher's Development Corporation in sales and marketing; and Children's Activities magazine as circulation promotions managerhad planned out the elements of his own magazine, that he would call Stag Party. He formed HMH Publishing Corporation, and recruited his friend Eldon Sellers to find investors. Hefner eventually raised just over $8,000, including from his brother and mother. However, the publisher of an unrelated men's adventure magazine, Stag, contacted Hefner and informed him it would file suit to protect their trademark if he were to launch his magazine with that name. Hefner, his wife Millie, and Sellers met to seek a new name, considering "Top Hat", "Gentleman", "Sir'", "Satyr", "Pan" and "Bachelor" before Sellers suggested "Playboy". The first issue, December 1, 1953, was undated, as Hefner was unsure there would be a second. He produced it in his Hyde Park kitchen. The first centerfold was Marilyn Monroe, although the picture used originally was taken for a calendar rather than for Playboy. Hefner chose what he deemed the "sexiest" image, a previously unused nude study of Marilyn stretched with an upraised arm on a red velvet background with closed eyes and mouth open. The heavy promotion centered around Marilyn's nudity on the already-famous calendar, together with the teasers in marketing, made the new Playboy magazine a success. The first issue sold out in weeks. Known circulation was 53,991. The cover price was 50¢. Copies of the first issue in mint to near mint condition sold for over $5,000 in 2002.

Looks like things may get interesting next week.

Looking at those pics by A-Z made me think of a place I visited a few years back. I bought some parts on E-Bay. Me and "Best Neighbor Fred" trailered up and rode on out to pick up the parts. When we got the destination we could not believe our eyes. This guys entire yard was covered with tractors, all types, including WH. WOW. Man I told Fred maybe we can pick up something extra. Lots of nice stuff. The dude said he was going though a divorce and might sell something's. I had cash and was ready. It may have save a bunch of time to ask what but ended up nothing could be bought. Guess he wasn't as ready as I thought. Just a story, I left my number and never did hear from him. I did snap a pic, there was lots more not shown.

Any time I do a restoration, I liberally use star washers under bolts or nuts to ensure a good ground connection. Engine to chassis, fender to fender supports, fender supports to chassis, hood stand to chassis, and solenoid and or regulator to hood stand if appropriate. You do not have to use them under every nut or bolt, just one at each major interface. They are cheap, makes a gas tight connection, and you do not have to sand off the paint and primer you so meticulously applied.

I have sold everything I have ever put on CL given enough time & patience. Most of the guys that bought my junk were actually decent folk. Couple of other tips.. Always expect to take less than what you want so have your "bottom line" price in mind when you post. Be prepared for "low ballers" but again be courteous. Be respectful & honest in your ad, never use foul language or snide comments. Treat prospective buyers as you would want to be treated. If you can't make an arranged look at be courteous & contact the buyer & say hey I gotta take my wife to the hospital or my dogs having pups or whatever Never give out your phone & always use the CL relay, if you do be prepared for text scammers. Yes you can weed them out pretty quick Zeek... If you get a "is it for sale yet" email ...it might be a scammer, hey it's up yet whadda ya think I would have it up if it ain't?!?? On the same note if you sell take it off right away unless your a glutton for punishment. If you get a request to ship or they request your pay pal info...it is a scammer. Always go cash & inspect bills carefully, unless it's your BIL, well maybe be extra careful ther. . I have a nice like new Cub sno blower on for a buddy that doesn't CL and we are asking $XXX for it, some guy keeps emailing offering -$XXX for it & when I tell him sorry my bottom line is $XXX the guy gets somewhat insulting about my asking price. Don't let it ruffle your feathers, you don't want to deal with him anyway... takes all kinds to make a world go round, hit the delete button and move on. And ALWAYS remember ...put your stuff here first!!!

We'll leave the light on for you.

Got to love those deals on Craigslist. I have bought and sold my share of stuff on their site and usually have had pretty good luck. Today I got a pair of Goodyear 26 x12-12 rawhide ags for 20.00. No plugs,no sidewall cracks and excellent beads. I have an extra set of 12 inch wheels I will mount them on then they will go on my 265. If i take possession of my dads workhorse , they could end up on there .

I just finished tuning up my Troy Bilt snowblower for winter. The metal skids were just about worn through. Replaced them with a pair of Roller-Skids. Wow! What a difference. The machine rolls effortlessly on the concrete driveway. Can't wait to see how they work in the snow.

I believe it is Shelter Logic brand 10'W x10'L x 8'T from TSC , got it on sale last year for the $ as a temporary shelter it has been ok it held the 24"+ snow in January but the summer sun has taken a toll on the "tarp" fabric all in all if you need something fast for temporary yes if thinking long term no come spring I'm investing in another 3 sided metal car port 18'W x21'L (like my other toys set under) for the tractors, Jeff.

If it's not a financial burden on the household, go get it. It's always easier to ask forgiveness than to ask for permission.

Between the above weather model and watching JimD's plowing video.......I think I'm just staying at home later next week!!

Your AC voltage is very good. If your battery voltage with the engine running is only 12.3 then the regulator is the most likely issue. That you mentioned the battery was hooked up backward really makes me think the regulator has had it. Wouldn't hurt to trace the wire from the B terminal of the regulator (probably an orange wire) to the ignition switch make sure it is good shape and also make sure the regulator housing is well grounded to the tractor. If those ar OK looks like a new regulator is in your future

If you change your mind and decide to come back you will be very welcome.

Happy Birthday Brian... hope you have a great day today.

You have the mount for like a 2-cycle chain saw for the time period.

Mike, the seal is a C/R12407

Mike, cup and race are Timken Set 14 (L44643 cone and L44610 race) or Napa small engine # 701101

Looks well kept. Those are the ones you want. Kept inside more than likely. Decarbonizing at 1000 hours is correct. Also clean the sock and adjust the valves.it was easier than I thought. I did 2 of mine last summer! I'd buy it. If they are taken care of expect many more hours on that engine. The onans have lots of power! They also steer easy with the gear reduction and swept front axle.

Here's a pic of my 1076 with an auto battery in it.

Charger/Electro Battery trays were 8-1/2 x 5-1/2. Newer style are about 7 x 5. Picture is a 22NF in the older bigger tray. it is 9-1/2 inches tall to top of terminal posts that would seem to clear the gas tank in my Charger and Electros. Based on that Grp 45 or 51 51R would seem to work also http://www.batteryweb.com/bci.cfm Pictures won't upload right now will try later

There are at least two sizes of battery box. I will measure them later. I just use some scrap wood to hold L&G batteries in the bigger boxes. Charger/Electro used the bigger box and i assume originally had an automotive style battery with top terminals. Pics ar from Electro12 manual...looks automotive to me.

A one day trip for years of enjoyment....go for it.

Looks good in the pics Terry. Any maintenance history? Isn't there a de-carboning task that needs to take place periodically on the Onans? Is it at the 1000 hour mark....if so that's where that machine is at. Mike.........

Just wanted to say thanks for all of your help with my 314 hydro questions over the last year. You all are a great resource and wealth of info for the brand. The reason for my thanks is that I have sold my Horse and dont know how often ill be back here. Sorry guys i went to a green and yellow 332..... I just hope the JD guys are as helpful! Thanks again, Mike

That is cool stuff. I really like old books and manuals and paper work like this. It is like a time capsule. I have a old Delco Remy manual it has many picks of factory workers and lots of info. I enjoy looking at it from time to time.

But of course

There is nothing wrong with having multiple colors in the garage! Maybe you will be back, and if not, I am sure the guys over on the freedom site will treat you just fine. Randy

I want to add....check ALL electrical connections to be sure they are CLEAN & TIGHT, especially the battery to ground.

Sorry for your loss. Maybe you will find another RED tractor

Ed, No confusion from what I read. It was good meeting you as well Saturday. The part is in on that Work Horse and it's ready to work at our cabin next season. Though I'll likely do some more work throughout the winter on that worker as well. I took the tractor back over to my mom's basement garage for the winter. I have just a little more deck work to do as it's just a hanging shell until I get acceptable caliber of parts installed on it for the shafts. It looks as good or better than it did when dad bought it back in May 1983.

Here's a few...

Be sure your battery is putting out a full charge. Please specify model and engine so we can better help.

Pretty cool. You might want to scan these and put them in our "Manual" section in the correct areas there. They would be cool to have them there.

Ryan, I think I would hang onto that bracket and leave it on the horse for now. If you are going to let young people ride that horse, you could stick a bolt in one of those holes and put some bar bell weights on there to help keep the front end down. I happen to have an old set you could have that would look like they belong there. I'm liking what Clay had to say about the stop buttons. I would look for another set of front rims, paint one set black and the other silver and switch them once in a while. Then you have two rj-35s in one. Think of it as a bi-polar RJ-35.

The machine was balking a bit today. Good news- the tank does not leak. The sediment bowl leaks but that is easy to replace. The tractor started and ran good at first so I cut it off and installed the hood and setup the camera for a video. And the tractor would not start. Starter turning hard but the belt not moving. Pulled the spark plug, engine turns freely, install the plug starts right up. Put the hood on, start the camera- same problem. I go through this several times. I wonder if the carb is causing a flood when the engine is turned off. Or maybe my recent throttle cable and choke cable install is improperly rigged. Tomorrow is another day.

Better yet, look into an alternative to offer him, I'm sure that "sign-post" is dangerous (employees, city & insurance don't like it). There are lots of commercial nice-looking portable alternatives that are safe and can make everyone happy and will look much better. Maybe just finding the alternative, (then getting it) and offering a trade will suffice, Good Luck, and hope you can get it. Sharp eye !

Sweet Malibu you have hiding there

You did a very job!! Looks great.

I think we'll be okay in my part of Missouri. Looks like tentatively I'm in the .1 to an inch range. We probably have to worry more about sleet and/or freezing rain, which is worse than snow. I think we'll be okay as I have two tractors ready with snow blades awaiting, which usually halts any snow accumulation and sends the snow elsewhere. When I'm not ready, then we usually get some significant snow.

Hello to all. I have a 1973 Wheel Horse 12 automatic in pretty good shape. It has been in continuous summer use since the day it was new. This machine is only used for lawn cutting in Wisconsin. It spends it's winters inside of a garage that is attached to my house. It has never been left outside when not in use. It has the famous Kohler K series engine, (K301). Other than a replaced fuel pump, and standard tune up items, this tough old engine has never been worked on internally. Over the last few years, I can tell it is has lost some power. It also has begun to use oil (sae 30w) at an increasing rate, Although no signs of smoking. It is also seeping some oil out of the governor shaft bushing. Because this is such a tough old tractor, and the fact that I have a spare hydro unit, I have decided to rebuild this engine. Heck, it's already got 43 years of use from this tough engine. I am not wanting to just "THROW some rings in there" and call it a rebuild. OH NO! I will do this the right way. I would love to just get a new Kohler short block and call it a day, but I know they are getting rare now especially trying to match up with my unique spec number. So I will have to do a complete tear down and rebuild. I will leave no stone unturned. I have no knowledge of machine shop procedures, but I should have no problem, to dissemble, clean, have machine shop work done, then reassemble. The reason I posted this, is to ask if anyone knows of a genuine small engine machine shop, without a bunch of high school kids learning how on my engine. I have tried in the past to have quality work done at machine shops, and I have discovered that with all my ignorance in this area, I was more informed than most of them. The one place I came to trust is long gone now. I always run this engine full blast when cutting the lawn (wide open throttle) that is why I would like OEM Kohler parts inside. I know getting OEM for something this old will not be easy, but I am much more concerned about finding a trusted and competent machine shop to do quality work. I can find do it yourself machine shop hacks anywhere, MOST of the members here are well informed, caring and dedicated folks who care about preserving the classic old Wheel Horse. Can you please give me your thoughts on undertaking this rebuild? Thanks so much

I need to go out later and measure the larger box. They look like overkill...but I have 14 year old John Deere that I bought new and it came with an Automotive style JD Battery. Still working (knock on wood)/. Never had a L&G last that long.

You will love that diesel powered 332. They're great machines, and if I could and if you haven't found it yet, go to WFM www.wfmachines.com for information and comments/questions on your 332. And as Randy said, it's okay to have more than one color in your garage. I have both the green/yellow and the red, and I also had a few of the white and yellow variety as well.

Which ones? I don't recall seeing this.

Yes that calcium is some nasty stuff but the weight per gallon vs the other fluids is why they used it, dad's old CUB CADET 6-12's had it with tubes that went bad and rusted the rims before replacing tubes and tires, as well as our old Allis Chalmers C, I use RV antifreeze personally, and I believe they used Rimgard when I replaced the tires on my Kioti ck20,Jeff.

I just got a similar thing with a tractor I just bought -- very cool. I didn't get the bag -- that is cool. My favorite was the Kohler manual. I hadn't seen one of those before. Old things seem so much better than new things... lol

Well guys I called and asked earlier today. The man said that about the 70s or 80s they used it to much and junked the reel mower not real happy about that. Never had the correct plow tube he said he has used it like that sense he can remember with the plow which I will not be. I been looking for a reel mower definitely a rare find alot of them where for sale about the 5 years ago.... @rj35hunter that is pretty neat that the number are so close To Each other. Are you going with a 56 also or you think it's a late 55?