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Picked up this nice 4 wheel wagon on Saturday. 2nd trip to Wisconsin in a week. Pretty stoked to add this to my collection .

Today while reading through the threads that I'm following to gain knowledge for future use I seen a picture in Lagersolt's snow blower auger bearing replace thread. And since I have been meaning to post this idea I have used since entering the work force I seen it as perfect time to pass it on. This setup makes it easy for me to find tools and also when putting tools back after working on a project a open slot keys me in to a tool I over looked while picking them up. I take wire trough cutting it to the length I need to hold the number of tools I want to organize. I then cut it to heigth needed to clear when closing drawers. Once those 2 steps are done I widen the slots that wires went though to fit the tools I've chosen. I split the trough for use with wrenches and used scrap for boxing in the side cutters and snap ring pliers. Though the years I have learned that once these steps are done it is best to set the tools up and position the whole setup were you plan to mount it. I originally used 2 sided tape this is okay but may need to be repaired if glue drys out. I now drill a hole in each end and pop rivet them from under side so rivets don't interfere with anything below the drawer. Some times the length will dictate the addition of a second or third rivet for stability. I spent majority of my career in industrial settings allowing me access to used wire trough for free so I can't say what it would cost to buy a length of it.

...showing the end of the driveway here, both yesterday & today... ...and a thirty degree difference in wind chill.

Oh, here is my other "wood stove". It is actually powered by remote sources that use coal, uranium and water as power and send that power to me thru a wire. No smoke or ashes, and I don't need to leave my recliner to fire it up.

It is a plastic channel used in industry to contain wiring. the slotted sides allow wires to enter and exit at any location along the length of the "trough. It has a removable snap on cover

Looks like a 61 401. And the hood is the factory replacement hood that would of been added later on.

11-20-1955 Bo Diddley makes his national television debut on The Ed Sullivan Show Born Ellas Otha Bates in McComb, Mississippi, in 1928, the man better known as Bo Diddley introduced himself and his namesake beat to the world on this day in 1955 with his television debut on The Ed Sullivan Show. Bo Diddley opened his appearance on Ed Sullivan with the eponymously titled song “Bo Diddley,”. This now-famous number set portions of the children’s rhyme “Mockingbird” to what is now known as “the Bo Diddley beat”—a syncopated rhythm in 4/4 time that is the foundation of such rock-and-roll classics as Buddy Holly’s “Not Fade Away” and the Stangeloves’ “I Want Candy,” among countless others. Five months before Elvis Presley would make his famous Ed Sullivandebut, Diddley’s performance gave many Americans their first exposure to rock and roll, though that term was not yet familiar to mainstream audiences. Neither was the Bo Diddley beat, yet within just a few seconds of the drum-and-maraca opening of “Bo Diddley,” the live Ed Sullivan audience can be heard spontaneously clapping along to the distinctive rhythm in the surviving kinescope recording of the performance. As Diddley would later tell the story, Ed Sullivan had expected him to perform only a cover version of “Tennessee” Ernie Ford’s “Sixteen Tons” and was furious enough with him for opening with “Bo Diddley” that Sullivan banned him from future appearances on his show. Be that as it may, Diddley’s appearance on this day in 1955 introduced a sound that would influence generations of followers. As blues-rock artist George Thorogood—who performed and recorded many Bo Diddley covers during his own career—once told Rolling Stone: “[Chuck Berry's] ‘Maybellene’ is a country song sped up… ‘Johnny B. Goode’ is blues sped up.

DO IT!!!!!!! One challenge will be how to angle it. Another will be making the broom itself. Never thought about making a sweeper from a blower but thought about making a flail mower. This one was made from a walk behind sweeper to fit the tractor. Most of the work is already done so making it adapt was main the challenge. The walk behind sweeper was found on CL for about $200. Close to the same price as a SS blower.

Shocking!!!

One nice lookin' man cave there.

Just wondering if anyone has kicked around the idea of turning a single stage blower into a rotary sweeper ? Reverse the rotation Use the existing shell for a shroud Remove the spirals on the auger & add some sort of heavy duty bristle arrangement . Might be a fun project , seems like the singles are way more plentiful than their 2 stage cousins .

Got me thinking now too! What about making it fit on the rear of the tractor? Blade or blower up front and sweep on the rear. Kill 2 birds since it will serve as weight ballast too. The ultimate snow moving machine Just kinda thinking out loud.

No, but now you got me thinking. I just happen to have a short chute parts blower.

On the bright side, you won't have to spend your Sunday picking up leaves! Mike.....

Some of you wanted to see a short Video of this Muffler here you go. HDV_0002.MP4 HDV_0002.MP4

Just dug this corn sheller out. Goes to show how far things have come. 20161025_184740.mp4

I paid $150 for a running C-160 auto a few years back. I eventually had to replace the Sundstrand Hydro though. Just bought a non-running C-160 8 speed for $100 and had it running in an hour, but it smokes bad. Neither of these had any implements. With any non runner, you have to be concerned that it may have been parked due to a bad hydro. If the two decks are not rusted beyond repair and the spindles are good, they are worth $150-$250 each. Not sure what plows you have, but probably at least $100 each. So $5-600 sounds fair to me. These C-160s are worth saving. The $150 auto after the redo. The $100 8 speed as bought.

No "little red wagon" jokes Really nice project !

If you look in at picture with the pliers in it in the back left of drawer the black handle tool next to all the red handled tools are a pair of craftsman pruning shears. I use those to cut the height and also to widen the slots then its easy to either bend and break at bottom of cut is its a thin cut or use utility knife if it's a wider cut. I also use those to cut it to length. That pair of pruning shears are more than 30 years old bought them just for this use even though have been know to cut a low hanging branch here and there. Snap a couple of pics of them looks like I got tool number. Now as for separating it into 2 pieces like I did for the wrenches I just score a line (couple of passes with utility knife) down middle of bottom and rock it back and forth till it breaks. My kid says I have ADHD and OCD because I can't seem to ever take a day off from working on some project and because I like things to be done or stored in a certain way. Me I like the way I feel when I'm working with my hands and challenging my mind plus I sleep well if I work each day. As for the OCD I don't like wasting time to find a tool I need, also helps when I have someone here helping or needing help to say go to this drawer in the left, right or middle section of tool box get this tool from this area of drawer. I also prefer to do things the proper way the first time that's why I tend to over engineer things I build, and her house and mine both surpassed all the local building codes when I rebuilt them both over the first 6 years of retirement.

RJ-58 with what looks like an original belt guard. GO GET IT QUICK!

Another one kicking around, I just don't feel like starting another thread on it and clutter the airwaves. Glenn

Chilly day here but finally got heat in my garage,so i thought i would spend the day changing fluids and servicing my wheelhorses. Now if i could find a plow for my 875 i'll be all set for snow.

Wish we could get some snow or rain, at least the colder temperatures are making it a bit more tolerable for the fire fighters who are dealing with all the forest fires around us. The high winds we have had the past couple of days are not at all welcome; except for blowing the smoke away. At least they have managed to get ahead of some of the fire spread with fire breaks cut along the mountain ridges. God bless the forest service personnel; they work night and day to protect us.

Yeah, and if you wanted it to... it could be moved over, and made into a nice cozy ottoman.

Got the blower on the 520, and my back up for the C-175 pusher... is another C-165 set up for pushing too. Still may set a Suburban up this year too...for any light duty accumulations.

I would think it may be a 401 with a 704 hood. 701 hood had a solid front.

Sorry Mike, it's a tag on a tractor, supposed to be 60 plus years old, maybe an rj, the owner isn't sure. Probably more fools gold. Lol Glenn

Ok , been asked a lot of questions about how I rebuild front axles - unless they are physically broken no axle is really past the wear point of being rebuildable . I'm starting with an early D series front axle and upgrading to a later model D series 1" spindle type with the heavier casting . Since I could never find any pics of a comparison - here we go.... If you look closely - there is an obvious difference in the castings at the spindle end - the later model axles were thicker and larger diameter to accept the heavy duty 1" spindles. Later model (post '75 , I believe). This photo really shows the obvious difference in diameter - early models were much smaller and a thinner casting for the early 3/4" only spindles . Need to find someone with a tape measure and one of the oddball early D-200 1" spindle equipped tractors to find out if those were a thin casting or the thicker type . The machined relief is for the roller thrust bearings that were originally used - if you ever buy a D or I believe the 520's , this is the first thing to check as many were never properly greased and destroyed that bearing . This can really wreck an expensive spindle and make it more difficult to rebuild the axle casting itself . I will be re-machining these reliefs to mimic the factory design to keep dirt out and retain the grease inside the bearing . Early castings , at least on this 18 Auto or D-180 that I have (missing the stupid id tag completely) measures roughly 1-1/2" outside ... Later model upgraded casting is a whole different animal - there are major differences in how they were cast and not just at the spindle ends . Later models were 1-3/4" on the outside . Since I've never seen a new old stock replacement I'm not certain as to the original finish quality of the machining on these things - it is obvious that over time dirt has entered and a lack of proper grease results in the bores being worn badly - some are literally egg-shaped , especially tractors from the late 60's with high hours and heavy use . Snowblowers and other heavy front implements of course accelerate this wear issue - I'm out to cure that and make the unit more serviceable . The biggest , #1 problem with these is how they are greased . I've bought and sold tractors for years and had some that had huge grease balls around the spindles , inside the wheels and all over the front end . At least they were trying but the wear is almost no different than one that was seriously neglected . With the weight on the spindle , the grease is forced upward and exits at the E-clip at the top , never lubricating the bottom where it rides on the spindle base for the steering arm . The correct way to grease these things is to lift the tractor BY THE FRAME , NOT THE AXLE ITSELF . Also , do not lift it by the front mule quick attach - you will bend the cross rod for the latch and destroy it . Best way is to use a block on the frame itself or make a spreader to fit the jack , maybe I can take the time to get pics to show better ways to pick these things up since they aren't exactly lightweight ...lol . No make or brand was exempt from this issue , they all did it . The problem becomes parts availability - there are only so many parts left and finding good spindles and axles is becoming a serious problem . Some brands aren't too bad (such as the green ones) since they still support most of their older models . Unfortunately for us - Toro has chosen to drop these parts and stock is quite limited . I got really lucky and a parts dealer friend had a pair of NOS 1" D series spindles , one of the last pair to exist to my knowledge . Those are getting blueprinted and angles mapped for later - I may tackle making new ones in both the 3/4" and 1" versions . I believe with a little engineering the earlier models made in the 60's could use a sort of generic spindle since there little difference in the many models - it was mostly down to the axle's angles and width . My D will be upgraded to heim joints for the steering . Many of the tie rod and drag link ends are NLA and finding steering arms that don't have the tapered holes wallowed out is getting pretty tough . The low angle taper on those automotive style ends allows them to work loose despite having fine thread castle nuts and cotters - the force required to turn the wheels due to the above mentioned lubrication issues , combined with a gear reduction Ross type steering box makes the holes in the arms wear - I've seen 4 of these spindles on different D's all worn the same way with the tapered factory holes oval in shape and the shanks on the rod ends could be easily turned with a wrench, which should not be possible .Converting to heims is not too hard and less expensive in the long run - the only issue being the left hand threaded rod ends at the steering bell crank (or idler arm) . Since it sits so close to the underside of the frame and being tight quarters we may have to resort to using a reduced size heim joint which are easily obtained if you know the part number systems . I have a NOS pair of factory rod ends (ball joints in the parts manual) so this one won't be getting this upgrade for now . The factory bell crank is subject to wear like everything else . It's buried up under the engine and I suspect most were neglected being so hidden . Inside is a steel bushing riding on the cast iron bore of the bell crank . The retaining bolt , bushing and iron casting all get worn - which results in sloppy steering . On a D that's a real problem since their turning radius is huge to begin with . I've modified mine slightly by moving the turning arc point of the drag link inward by 3/8" - when it's done I'll test and measure the turning radius to see how much it helped and if there is any interference or other issues . Models with working turning brakes in either the stock D-200 or kit-equipped smaller models of course helped when in dirt or grass - just never use those on pavement or hard surfaces since it can really bind things up and possibly cause rear axle damage . It's all mentioned in the manual and instructions for the kits to add turning brakes . Not sure yet if I'll just make a separate thread on the steering parts or include them here - plenty of info to make a long thread on the cast iron axle alone . Depending upon how well it works out I may offer this as another service to the long list of other parts I build or rebuild currently . Guy with a lathe , far too many tools and a TIG welder must stay busy during the long winters....lol . So far, it hasn't been a cheap venture - tooling bits and parts totals are well over $400 and climbing - haven't really started any machine work on the axle as of yet since I'm still waiting on one tooling bit . I will try to document what is used in the rebuild and a parts list as well as sources . All bushings and bearings used will be off the shelf parts so it's nothing that isn't easily available . Lathe work my be required to avoid using custom ordered parts and their associated extra costs . Anyhow , more to follow.... Sarge Going forward

Volume of the reservoir needs to be at least double the maximum volume of the cylinder, allows for some cooling and fluid expansion.

Looks like it'll clean up nicely too.

Sweepster makes one ! http://www.sweepsterbrooms.com/

Nice pick up! I never see those around here.

You're #35

Evening all Wallfish I only spend MOM time on the Ohlsson Rice section, I'm not on there very often as like Chris I got fed up with some of the "comedians" that were posting on there

back Paul Maybe if you stop spending ALL of your time over there on MOM, you can share more of your Wheel Horse stuff over here. Just so everyone knows, MOM is My Old Machine website, I didn't mean his mom!

Hmmm, Craig makes a good point. Tins look like replacements. That's a Clinton engine and not normally seen on a 401, BUT some 401s did come from the factory with Clinton B1290 engines so it is possible the engine itself is original. Curious where that serial tag is attached on that tractor? As far as price goes that's up to you. But I can tell you I bought a $100 RJ-58 and by the time all the missing parts were found, I got $600 into it. The belt guard is there, check for original gas tank, all the rims look good. It has a dozer blade foot pedal on there so maybe they still have the blade which would make the deal sweeter.

What a difference 200 miles makes. We got about 1 3/4 inches of rain from the last storm. My folks live 200 miles north of here and got 18" of snow. It is 25 degrees here and cloudy. My grass sure is green. If this keeps up? I may have to mow again. Gotta go smoke a mole today... Seems like the rain woke him up.

I'm not on as often as I was but enjoy it when I'm here. Just curoius how many f the first 100 members still are active. I'm one of them (I think).

Craig, we had snow here last night to, not as much, it's gone now. I couldn't get over it. Glenn

No problem on the mind slipping - mine does all the time anymore - I'll post this it may help others in the future - picked up this piece of 1/2 " x 3 ft rod for 5 bucks at Lowe's to drift the old bearings out of the auger ......worked perfect .

Yesterday it got very close to 70 degrees, today 35 degrees and strong gusty NW winds, supposedly to 40 mph. Not much snow as of right now, but a few sideway flakes on the wind. Lake effect snow expected later tonight into Monday morning. 73 12hp has it's blower mounted, and one of the 68 Commando 8's has a dozer blade ready to go, so I am as ready as I can be.

Temps dropped here a couple days ago, no snow, luckily as I have no snow mover put together yet. Some areas of northern Minnesota got 20+ inches

Not much different here except for temp. Yesterday I swept the front yard and now it's covered with half of the neighbor's leaves, No snow yet. Tractor was broke yesterday and it still is today. Going out now to fire up the heat and rewire the 520.

Welcome back, Paul. It's good to see the Wheel Horse hobby going so well over in Europe. And I have to say, I love seeing the English countryside on a few British shows we get here in the US. It's one place I would love to visit some day, though I may have to learn the language. Wheel Dealers is one of my favorite shows, though I'm not too keen on their shows from the US shop. I know it may be a joy for you guys to see California, but I would rather see the English countryside and to see the British cars. I would love for them to do a show on a British pick up or van. I really like that last picture you posted of your dog and your Wheel Horse. Nice. Maybe we should have a calendar with our horses and pets.

Our guest house has a gas log stove that our old cat was very fond of!

Here is my Franklin stove. Just got cold enough to use it today.

When I mount the cast iron wheel weights I use small pieces of 1/4" thick rubber belting as sort of a stand-off to prevent the two parts from rubbing off the paint and promoting rust . Also helps to allow dirt to be rinsed out when washing it . I use the same method as above mentioned , painting the inside first and touching up with a brush what is necessary - then paint the outside once the tire is mounted . Sarge

I'll get some photos tomorrow, here's the Commando 8 with the Raider 10 behind it...

Been some crazy times in 10 years. I was member 37 so many, many years back. So many friends made over the days. T-Mo just gave you the link to what the old forum looked like.... but here's the original banner before that.... the default one that came on the forum... and yes, where we got our name. It was the name of the skin that the forum had. Then Terry @Vinylguy came along and started showing off.... Then when we started getting a little interest from across the pond... anyone remember "Mith" ? We added World to the banner. Remember the banner contest? and the rotating banners? Lots of talented graphic artists got their submissions in. And then.... the disaster Karl spoke of.... what forced him to run web crawlers to manually extract our data from our failing "free" host. This is all anyone saw for weeks while trying to access Then remember Redsquare Jr? Karl's quick fix for us to stay in contact with each other! A temporary home while the new private RS was created. Then we finally settled into our current home which we all know and love today. Been an amazing 10 years.... thank you to all the friends I've made over these years, and especially @nylyon who made all of this possible!