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Found some ag tires and rims at a old gas tractor show. I blasted and painted the rims and mounted them on this little guy. I kinda like the look. I'm gonna need a new place to house it though because she will no longer fit through the shed door.

Here they are!

Saw this at a new job today. It needs a hug... I may end up trying to buy it before I leave... I think I saw a deck in the weeds, and possibly a rear blade.

Guys, I finally was fortunate enough to meet and spend time with19Richie66. He is an all around terrific guy and I encourage everyone here to introduce yourselves to him at the Big Show next year if you have not already met him. Richie is hoping to attend his first Big Show, and I sure hope he can make it happen. We did some horse trading and with the help of Richie's Son, hauled stuff off of Richie's trailer and into my shop and Wheel Horse rolling chassis storage building. Then hauled stuff out of my storage building and Wheel Horse Barn and into his trailer. Richie ended up with a complete rear end and hydro pump and tach and vacuum gauge from a 520H roller I had. Also my old 417Hydro rolling chassis that was in the storage building, and the KT17 series 2 engine that was being stored in the Wheel Horse barn. And maybe some other stuff that I can't remember at this time. I happily ended up with a 1989 312-8 that has a fine running Magnum 12. The tractor needs a fender pan, seat, clutch return spring, and some TLC to be a usable working tractor. Buts that's no problem as I should have everything needed right here in stock. The tractor came with a set of Firestone AG's which I've already removed to put on John Robert (my K powered 416-8). The bonus to this 312-8 is it has a stack exhaust complete with a rain cap. Next cool thing I got from Richie was a complete running 10hp K engine mounted on a shaker plate. This engine has a little stack muffler with a rain cap that I may put on the 701. That should make it look even more like a miniature farm tractor. I have a Blackhood roller that needs a shaker plate engine. Then a complete but at the present time nonworking 8 speed transmission that can be repaired or used for parts. We had to part company much too soon, but Richie had to get back home to Florida. Here is a few pics of the things I ended up with.

First time I have had the stable out for some exercise and a photo shoot.They may not be to pretty but they sure work hard. Hope this satisfies the cries for more pictures.JAinVA

Well, I made enough progress to warrant a few pic. I cut the bends off the 105 rocker plate to make a solid engine mounting plate for the 321. I had to shim the plate up 1/2" to get the dropped pan to clear the steering rod extension tube. Got the steering geometry worked out and the engine installed. And got some painting finished. Still have to work out the clutch and throttle linkage. and a lot of body work on the hood and seat/fender pan. Got the snow movers ready and snapped a pic for size reference.

Nice ...I got a door it will fit through...be right over to get it

1980-1984 C-165 Automatic and C-145 Automatic are the only tractors that fit those specific requirements. However, if you are willing to look at the Kohler Magnums which were essentially the same as a K series but had a magneto ignition. That opens up your scope to include 1990 and newer 312-H and 314-H but some feel these engines are a BIT under powered running a Hydro with a big mower deck or snow blower. Also there are koher twins if you dont want to go Onan, like the C-175 Auto, 417-A, 418-A, 418-C. But in reality, the Onans are just fine for many people (and lots of people LOVE them!) They sound really cool, are VERY smooth running and have quite a bit of power. That will expand your search to all the newer 416-H's and 520-H's as well (of which there are very many of these around!) I don't know if you have a specific reason to be going hydro, but most attachments are not unreasonable to use a hand-lift with (and some are even preferred, like mid-mount grader blade). The 8 speeds are just about bullet proof and for ground engaging work cant be beat. The hydros are smoother for cutting grass and (for me) plowing snow especially when converted to foot pedal control. That will expand your search immensely!

I don't know what kind of cast iron the Kohlers on those old 953's are made of but 953Nut recently brought one home that looked like it had been salvaged from the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean. He put a battery and gas in it and the thing started right up! Amazing

There are 2 bolts in the top of the trans that hold the lift cable tube on. Take one of those out and it will vent there.

Sundstrands all very durable and garden tractor manufacturers started using them over 50 years ago. Most are still in original condition. They are very strong units. The Magnums were starting to be phased out in the late 80s and early 90s. Most manufacturers have already started using the Kohler Command by that time. Toro was a bit behind in putting the Commands in their tractors. Nothing wrong with either the Magnum or the Command as both are Kohler's commercial grade engines. Onan is also a commercial grade engine and are built to last. Parts, though are a bit pricey.

The brake will slow it down but all of mine will turn if nothing is attached. It will stop when you attach the deck

Fuses are a good thing, lots of older didn't have them and should have. Presuming you have a battery ignition system with points and a coil the following simple diagram should be helpful. The wire sizes are not Gospel, if you want to use a larger size (smaller number wire gauge) that is fine. The second and third are for reference for other systems.

Do these new tires make my butt look big.

Yes it was very nice to meet finally. You are a good man! Always nice to put a face with a name. Too bad I could only stay so long. I would have talked tractors and stuff all day. Glad you got the 312 fired up and was satisfied with it. I hope to get the 417 washed down and put back together here soon. As for the firewater, I didn't get to witness it's existence but did hear tales of it's power. Maybe I will witness that next year. The boom sprayer sounds like a good idea. Here is a picture of my load going home. Who says the beverly hillbillies are dead?

At least in my environment, near the Canadian border, both blade AND blower are required for snow removal! Blade will handle light storms and blade will cleanup after the blower moves the heavy snows. Point is that I most always use the blade for final cleanup! Wouldn't be without it! Otherwise the little bit that the blower leaves builds up, partially melts and refreezes and later turns into ice and causes me to fall and brake my ankle... really! So up here I like to try to scrape the drive clean and hope some sun comes through to "burn" off the remainder so I can start with a completely bare driveway again! I'm so serious about this (broken ankle!) that I also intend to add a Sweepster! But blower and blade is a very nice combo until then! Thanks for sharing!

Picked up this 58 RJ today! It has the shower head and the original heat shield and reel mower belt guard. Came with a deck, a tub cart, and a snowplow. Will get better pics later!

I mounted this loader on one of my 520H's, it's a Sears Smipson made in Canada. They are a very good loader. I will post more pics later on how I hooked it up. The rims are altered , made extra wide.

Heat. Preferably with oxy acetylene torch set up

Thanks ACman, I'm glad to have helped get you started into a great hobby. My shop also serves as my hideout, my get away. I get a lot of satisfaction out of being able to do so many different things right here at home. It's also pretty amazing what a guy can teach himself to do with the right tools at hand. Maybe I will posts in the new thread one day with a few pics of the shop.

Think of it as having been an organ donor for other deserving projects.

While I am glad to see a C-105 Black Hood gave it's life for a fellow WH, very typical of the breed I might add, my C-105 grieves for it's lost cousin... VERY nice build, by the way...

I too have about a lifetime's supply of projects, but that won't keep me from looking.

If it's like my 312-H,I loosen the oil filter and it goes right in

THAT IS SICK! in a good way. Looks very clean Ed. Can't wait to see more.

Heh Guys -- Be careful with the HCl (hydrochloric acid) -- Besides being corrosive/burning, HCl like all of those other acids is generating hydrogen gas (which is explosive in the presence of an ignition source) when they remove the rust -- With the slow rust removal (i.e. vinegar, phosphoric acid) the hydrogen is getting time to disperse into the air -- With the HCl and a closed up tank you could build up a significant amount of gas which would explode with a spark/fire (i.e. you are making a bomb) -- So the biggest watch out would be to use the HCl in the absence of ignition sources and vent the tank often (or don't close the tank) when using HCl

Any engine, old or new, can backfire if not properly idled down for a minute or so after hard use. I get on my wife and kids for that all the time.

Since this is turning into a study of tractors, I thought that I would add a few things. I have never owned a Sundstrand (yet!) but have a few Hydro tractors. Eaton only manufactured the transmission which was then installed on the three different transaxles made by Wheel Horse/Toro. Tractors with an -A (but not all) normally used the 700 series transaxle with a manual lift. Onan and Kohler engines were used. Tractors with a -H did use the 1100 series transaxle with hydraulic lift capability. Onan and Kohler engines were used. These can be plumbed to eliminate the lift if necessary. It would be best to take a chassis with a manual lift and install the 1100 if a manual lift was desired. The 5xi series all used the Eaton 11 with a re-designed 1100 transaxle. Kohler, Kawasaki, and Daihatsu engines were used. This transaxle added Hi/Lo gears as well as a neutral position along with hydraulic lift and hydraulic power steering on three of the five models. Regarding the 520-H gathering grass clippings while mowing, my 523Dxi with the water-cooled Daihatsu diesel does the same thing. But there are the three screens below the dash plus a removable fine mesh screen (last photo) in front of the radiator. My Kohler-engined 5xi don't have the same problem due to moving less air for cooling.

I'm curious as to why you think this is a problem? On these tractors the hydro is not like a pressure washer, when you are idling in neutral they are running the fluid through the hoses and filter at a fairly low pressure (30-90psi). The fan keeps the motor/pump cool and everything is just circulating unimpeded. They are designed to work or idle all day long, so you should be good to go, don't worry about letting a hydrostat idle.

I had quite a collection of different models, over 30, and started selling them a year or so ago. I sold most of what I had collected except a couple RL's, a couple suburban's, c-120, 520-H, 856 and a 418-A. Know I have my complete workshop back and don't have to move anything to work on a project. I miss some of them, but it sure is nice to work on something without doing a bunch of extra work to get at a tool.

Got the power washer together this weekend and was able to clean up the 520h moderately. Can definitely see the engine and frame better. Was able to get a better look at the engine. Unfortunately when I was taking off the RH side shroud the bolts were brittle and I broke them off in the cylinder head. Contacted Boomer again. Hes sending a Head and the bokts along with a small gasket kit for the heads, intake and exhaust manifolds. Also got the oil filter air seal which I didnt have, a new (used) tested stator and newer starter drice kit in the mail from Boomer as well and he was even kind enough to send the starter repair manual with it. Got that installed in the starter after cleaning it all up. Brushed armature and all. Photos.

Oh yes! I uploaded some a year or so ago and Richard/953Nut commented but then I couldn't find them recently so I uploaded more in the Stevebo Meet and & Greet thread. Rough, sad and only a true Wheel Horse follower could appreciate her finer qualities. Alas I let her go to a better life, I'm afraid only her organs will be brought to life again... If only I had known her many years ago...

Van was all this horse trading with or without your famous firewater?

Used to do 2 2.2 turbos a day along with countless head gaskets, cams, wristpins. We had 2 big binders chuck full with all the service bulletins just with the ones trying to get the Horizon's to run smoothly cold! The absolute best were the 2.6 Mitsujunki's. You had to install a heat shield under the carb to keep it from vapor locking in the summer month's and then remove it when it got cold to keep the carb from icing! You haven't lived until you worked on Renaults though. People say "Why don't you work on cars anymore" and I answer "RENAULT!"

Two years of Wheel Horse fun ... chasing parts ... chasing horses ... obsessively checking CL for implements ... watching YouTube video's ... The, day, has, arrived. Presenting, (drum roll please) my first furrow. I now own a garden tractor instead of a garden lawn mower. Don't laugh! Practice will make perfect one day!

Yes Sir, it's a big plus to have extra oarts. My Dad taught me a long time ago that " Its better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it" One of the things I look forward to at the Big Show is visiting Dale's Wheel Horse booth area and buying all the maintenance items I will need for the following year. I always have a list of things such as belts, mower blades, air filters, ignition switches, tie rods, pto disc, headlight trim inserts for 300/400 series, fuel tank caps with the gauge, battery trays and hold down brackets. I enjoy being able to get something I need off the shelf when working on one of my tractors. This saves a lot of time in the short run and long run. Jack, funny you said that. Richie and I both felt like we came away with stuff that we needed, and was fun to wrench on. It don't get any better than that when Horse trading

Here is a thread with some photos of the pump internals I found using the search that might be of some use.

I get a backfire once in a while just idling down, am I idling down to fast?

Bigger hammer? Oxy/Acet torch? Just get after it with your hammer and chisel and spread the split area. You mean to remove it, repaint and reinstall? I've missed something?

Yes sir. I paid $23 shipped for mine. Slapped it on after it was done drying off. Thanks for mentioning it though.

Great looking work crew you have there JA !!!

Indywheelhorsenut and I were able to come to a mutually agreeable price on his low hour 314-8 and I added a tractor to the herd my wife could mow with. She's been mad at me ever since I sold the 520H and bought a zero turn. It doesn't have near the grunt of the 161 or the 520 but it is incredibly quiet. As soon as as my wife's anger of owning another horse subsidies I think she'll really like it.

Kohler book calls for a RH10 but a H10 would work just as well. The H10 might cause a little interference if your trying to listen to a radio station while your using your tractor.

I think they look great....Just wish I had a hard working crew like that!

Just to satisfy my curiosity, I did an experiment with a used muffler that I bought for my worker B-100. After a light sand blasting, I sprayed one half of the muffler with high temperature BBQ paint, and the other half with VHT Flameproof. After running the B-100 for an entire winter plowing snow, and leaving it covered with a tarp about 60% of the time, the half painted with VHT looked pretty good, but the half painted with BBQ looked like it had never been painted.The BBQ paint had burned off down to the metal, and the rust was back with a vengeance. It seems that the heat on the surface of the muffler is much higher than the surface of a BBQ grill.

OK, so now that you mention them...maybe the black hoods are my favorites too.

Great pictures Glenn...thanks. That is a very nice looking horse. WOW

So yesterday I got a chance to build my k161. I got it back from the machine shop the cost to rebore the cylinder and regrind the valves/seats was $70. The first thing to a quality rebuild is and I cannot stress this enough, USE A CLEAN WORKSPACE! I cleaned the top of my stand with brake clean, anything to remove dirt and debris. If you don't have a metal top to use, try a clean peice of cardboard, something. You just spent money to do this right Don't skip on the clean work bench. Here is the most of my parts I am putting in. I am building this with an aftermarket ebay kit these are not kohler oem parts. I know there are always debates about this but I have built many k series kohlers with great results if you think you need to add your about this do it else where this is a how to thread. You will notice in the background of the parts I have shown two things I like to use but in no way do you have to use them One is high tack Gasket sealant (helps hold the gaskets in place during assembly along with helping resist oil over time) and an assembly grease (you can use SAE 30 oil and still have great results). Here is a shot of the valve seats and cylinder walls, I have a great local machine shop and they do quality work. First I install each piston ring (minus the wavy oil ring spacer) one at a time. I then use the new piston to push it into the cylinder and square it up to the bore. I use one of the cutouts in the piston as a depth gage. Using the chart in my kohler manual I look up the end gap spec for my motor and measure the gap with a feeler gage. I measure for the biggest and smallest accepted gap from the book in this case it was .007" to .017" so I find these two feeler gages and check I want the smallest to fit (then there is enough room for expansion when hot ) and I don't want the biggest to fit otherwise the piston will be sloppy (not to worry about because if your machine shop did a quality job you will be closer to the smaller number). You can find out specifically what each gap is but it is indifferent if you are between the specs. Next I lap the valves. Yes the machine shop did just clean up the surfaces to match but lapping creates a microscopic "fluff" ring that will allow the valve to fully seal against the seat. Once again these two items only cost a couple dollars and can be bought at almost any automotive store. Get a small engine size lapping tool because one for doing chevy 350 valves won't be friendly because the suction cup will be too big. When it comes to the lapping compound there is water or oil based. Personally I prefer oil because it "sticks" to the surfaces better water just seems runny, just my opinion. I apply a small amount of compound to the valve face with my finger. Then suction the lapping tool to the top of the valve. Place the tool in between your hands and roll it back and forth with light pressure and some rapid back and forth speed. This is a sound and feel thing for those who haven't done it before, at first it will grind like sand this is a good thing. As you roll the tool back and forth it will become quieter ( the compound has pushed out of the seat) I lift the lapping tool up which should pick up the valve a little set it back down and keep rolling in my hands. each valve should only that 30 sec to 1 min it is not a lengthy process. Wipe out the seat and the valve with a clean rag (don't want that grit in the motor later) here is what the valve faces should look like. Notice how each valve has a dull light gray ring on its face (this is the "fluff" we just created) notice how uniform it is all around the valve. This shows good contact between the valve and the seat.

Recently refurbished after 25 years+ rotting in an old outbuilding (UK)- Redsquare Calender image from July 2011- And a frame taken from old Super 8 Cine Film of the Tractor the day it was delivered on 21 June1972-