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Indywheelhorsenut and I were able to come to a mutually agreeable price on his low hour 314-8 and I added a tractor to the herd my wife could mow with. She's been mad at me ever since I sold the 520H and bought a zero turn. It doesn't have near the grunt of the 161 or the 520 but it is incredibly quiet. As soon as as my wife's anger of owning another horse subsidies I think she'll really like it.

I got this nos 1977 snow cab for $100. It's all in great shape except there is a tear in the front window. I had to make the 2 brackets that mount to the floor boards. It's a pain to put that thing together but it's all worth it. I can't wait to blow snow! I've never seen a raider 8 with a cab before either.

Very ingenious...However me thinks the next post from TIGman will be something like: "Lonely WH owner seeking place to sleep (after I replace the Wife's Dryer)...".

I have read of guys putting large grit sandblasting media along with some water into the tank, sealing it up, and placing it into a paint shaker. 5 to 10 minute made it clean and shiny on the inside. After flushing it to get all the junk out, a dose of alcohol removed all of the moisture. However, many found that removing the gunk and rust revealed tiny holes that had been seal by the rust.

I have been very busy lately, but just for you, I got something PLUS a cab. Have a look see. It came off an 80 hour machine. Hope you like it, I do. Finally, will be snow blowing in style on the 522xi. Glenn

Well after finishing the 1056 I wasn't sure how long it would take to dive into another. A C-160 followed me home from Springfield, Mo and it doesnt look much like ti did on Thursday. Got it on the lift ready to start the tear down process. This is what's left of it on the lift after 8 hours or so. Posted over to the Transmission page about some issues and have the parts coming. I cannot get the exhaust fitting out of the block. I will keep slathering PB on it and see if it will break loose. This one is for my daughter and son-in-law and he has agreed to come assist....Maybe this will go a bit quicker! Had considered restoring the 3 piece seat, but after reading on here that they are less than comfortable, I will forego that. SIL is 6'4 and around 250, so an adjustable thick seat will be best for him. Once finished, I may restore the 3 piece seat anyway.....The logo in the center of the backrest is still in good shape and could be stitched into another pad. The engine is strong. I am hoping I don't have to crack open the trans, but as you can see an oil seal on the input shaft is a must, as is replacing the woodruff key on the pulley. A solid 10 ounces of water came out of the trans before the oil did. New shifter boot ordered... I don't think I am going to attempt pulling the steering wheel. It looks to be more rusted up than the 1056 did and I broke a gear puller trying to get it off. I will mask the wheel and repaint the shaft and upper console that way.... More to follow as this build progresses.

I love 'em all ... It's sort of funny , for a lot of years I was about the only one that owned a 1277 , then had two....now they are coming out of the woodwork again , lol . I sold this one earlier this year - My steadfast worker and my first 'Horse... I also have a '74 C-160 (bad rod, block is cracked - not rebuildable, need to find an engine) , '73 16 Auto (current mower/worker) and a '74 D-180 w/6-1142 56" blade . Every one of them can out work just about anything short of a compact farm tractor around here... Sarge

Put some pea stone in it , wrap it good with a towel . Now pack it into the clothes dryer so that it doesn't bang around . Use no heat setting and let it run for awhile . Herd this trick from a motorcycle restorer who does this when the wife's away .

Yep, I figured that since the 312-8 isn't able to be used for mowing grass (PTO belt decided to let go and wrap itself around the deck drive pulley. I decided that since I had the Raider working, I really didn't need to address that right away.), I'd get the snowblower on while I had some free time. It went on pretty well considering I've never done this before. I just need to get a longer eyebolt for the lift assist spring, and a new front tire. I also addressed a loose seat. I found a free Snapper seat a few years ago and put it on, but it worked itself loose. Since the front bolts didn't line up, I just added a strip of metal to hold the front in place. It should do until I can get a better seat. So now I just need to get the chains on, and some weight on the rear.

Today I put my dual stage on my 1996 520-H. I did this because I have other 520's to mow with and it's just a pain to put on later lol. I just need chains now.

All kidding aside, I restored an old Studebaker and used muratic acid ( 1part to 3 parts water )..after cleaning it, it did indeed have pin holes in it which had to be soldered shut - then coated it with a product from Eastwood (eastwood.com) . This was all on advice from car restorers. Checked tank 5 years later and it was still rust free...

...or bungee cord it to a wheel, and do some hot laps around the yard.

10-23-1992 First criminal prosecution for cheating on a college entrance exam A Maryland man is sentenced to six months in jail for paying another man $200 to take the exam for him. ROCKVILLE, MD. ROCKVILLE, Md. (AP) _ A 19-year-old man who admitted paying a friend $200 to take his college entrance examination was sentenced Friday to six months in jail. Lawrence H. Adler, of Potomac, wept and begged for mercy from Montgomery County Circuit Court Judge Paul Weinstein, saying he was truly sorry. But Weinstein rejected the plea. ''Quite frankly, Mr. Adler, you've been conning people all your life. The con ends here today.'' Outside the courtroom, Adler lashed out at reporters. ''You guys created this whole mess,'' he said. The Educational Testing Service, which conducts the Scholastic Aptitude Test, said it was the first time anyone has been criminally prosecuted in connection with cheating on an SAT exam. Weinstein sentenced Adler to 18 months on two perjury-related charges, but suspended all but six months of the jail term. He also ordered the college student to perform 100 hours of community service, undergo psychotherapy and be placed on three years of probation. Adler does not have to report to jail until after the fall college semester ends in December.

...for an interview and job offer...

If that happened in today's world, he would probably get invited to the White House...........

The addition of a spare gas tank for a Lawn Ranger and a little work Macgyver would be proud of, got the 10hp Briggs & Stratton fired up on the BIG TEN. There you have it.... The Hybrid Allis Chalmers/ Wheel Horse tractor.

The 416h is to be my main blower tractor.I have had the single stage short chute on it for a month now.I have a lift flag on the 416-8 just in case.When the snow needs to be moved you can't afford down time.I think I'm ready for snow.I got the Big Ugly 520h for woodhauling and the 416-8 is hooked to the leaf harvester.When the missus gives me the go ahead the garden gets tilled with the c101. She gets to see how these machines get used year round so she gives me no grief about any of them.Just saying.JAinVA

She won't admit it but I think she likes it.

Are you sure about the two bolts? I bet if ya crawl under it you will see two more bolts going up thru the frame into the bottom of the motor. Mike.....

Just to satisfy my curiosity, I did an experiment with a used muffler that I bought for my worker B-100. After a light sand blasting, I sprayed one half of the muffler with high temperature BBQ paint, and the other half with VHT Flameproof. After running the B-100 for an entire winter plowing snow, and leaving it covered with a tarp about 60% of the time, the half painted with VHT looked pretty good, but the half painted with BBQ looked like it had never been painted.The BBQ paint had burned off down to the metal, and the rust was back with a vengeance. It seems that the heat on the surface of the muffler is much higher than the surface of a BBQ grill.

I am not sure on the wiring of any of the other model of Wheel Horse tractors, but on the C175, and I am pretty sure this is true of the smaller C-series of the same vintage, ALL of the voltage from the battery runs through a single wire through the ammeter to the switch. The only circuit outside of the battery-ammeter-switch is the starter circuit (actually it is in circuit, but in another leg). In point of fact, pretty much all vehicle electrical circuits that employ an ammeter use similar wiring. The reason has to do with what an ammeter does, versus a voltmeter. A voltmeter only measures electrical "pressure", while an ammeter measures electrical "volume". To better understand electricity and current flow, think of electricity as water. In water you have the pressure that moves it (pounds per square inch), and the volume, or how much water is going past a given point in time (gallons per minute). In electricity, voltage is the driving force that propels the individual electrons along, and is much like PSI, but is measured in volts. The number, or quantity of electrons moving past a given point in time, commonly called current, is measured in amperes (amps). One amp is equal to 6.2X10 to the 18th power of electrons flowing per second. That is a lot of the little buggers. To recap then, voltmeters measure pressure, or volts, and ammeters measure current in amps, or the quantity of electron flow. Simple. To accurately measure the flow of current in a circuit with an ammeter, you need to have all of that current flow through the ammeter first. You don't have this restriction with a voltmeter, as you can place the voltmeter anywhere in the circuit that allows it to measure the voltage of the battery. Of the two meters, the ammeter is the most useful. Not only can you tell immediately if your charging system is working or not, you can also get a good idea of what circuit is at fault if you have a short. Example: Tractor starts fine, and the current draw looks normal. If when the the starter is released the meter goes into, or stays in the negative (to the left of zero), you immediately know you are not charging. If it charges OK, but drops to the negative when the headlights are turned on, then you know you have a dead short somewhere in the light circuit. With a voltmeter, if you are not charging, it will take some time before the meter registers the drop in voltage as the battery is becoming depleted. Dead shorts will look the same way, and there isn't any way to determine where the short is, other than tracing the circuit with a multimeter. As we are all aware, voltmeters are used on all the newer tractors, while ammeters were employed with the older models. The reason is that voltmeters are the cheaper of the two to make. What this has to do with Glenn's sudden dead tractor problem, is that on tractors with an ammeter like his, the first thing to check is if there is voltage coming out of the ammeter to the switch. If there is, then you should probably look at the ignition switch, then all those miserable little safety interlock switches. I had the same issue with my C175 last week. Suddenly went dead. Found that the posts on the ammeter were corroded and not making good contact. A side problem was the corrosion had built up sufficiently that current was occasionally arcing from the posts to the meter mounting strap, thus blowing the 25 amp inline fuse. I posted this long missive so that others who have issues with their electrical system will have a little better understanding of how they are wired, and work. Once you have the basics, troubleshooting these tractors is really pretty easy, and do not take very long at all. Glad you found your problem Glenn, and you are making excellent progress. That machine is really looking fine now.

I've always been an advocate of buying the belt from your local WH/Toro dealer if possible. It avoids all the hassle that you went thru Gary. Mike....

My fuel tank came in the mail today. I rigged up a temporary fuel pump and the old beast came to life. That 16hp Koehler single lung has the sweetest slow idle. For something that sat in the weeds for years I'm impressed. The hydraulics, PTO, and hydrostatic axle all worked great. Unbelievable. Damn headlights don't work. That breaks my heart. LOL. I found a company making Koehler fuel pump rebuild kits for aluminum body pumps. I'll post how that works out. The old blades on the deck are sharp as bowling ball, but it cut well and the torque and speed of the old machine is impressive to me. I'm hooked on this old beast. Thanks for reading my ramblings and thanks for the guidance. Mark

854 for Me also....I was born in '64, so the tractor and I are the same age. This is the best running tractor I've ever owned!!

My favorite is a design I have in my head. A GT 14 frame, a tough Gear Drive(have not decided if Wheel horse is the best I could go with), independent Hydraulic pump for deck and 3 point lift, 22HP predator, and a cup holder. Until I build it, the GT16 I did is my favorite.

I mounted this loader on one of my 520H's, it's a Sears Smipson made in Canada. They are a very good loader. I will post more pics later on how I hooked it up. The rims are altered , made extra wide.

I have a 1973 W/Horse 8 and I put a Dayco belt on it 82"by5/8. It was fine as long you where just driving it but once you put pressure on it all I heard was squealing under the belt guard. And the thing was I was only back dragging with the plow. Tranny seem to bind up a lot. But now with a 7473 is 81.9" by 5/8" W/Horse belt on and that is all gone I can push stones with no bind up or squealing. So I say do it right the first time. I got off of E-... it was here in 2 days. Just my

Don't want to step on this thread but... I had two of those minivans and you bet - very functional...Problem wasn't the engine - ran great....problem was the transmissions - JUNK. And a company that would not back their product. Entire websites devoted to the Chrysler minivan transmission problems...Don't know how the new Italian car company will perform, but a Chrysler won't be in any garage of mine after how they mishandled the whole debacle TWICE...

That would depend on the maintenance history; just to be on the safe side you should buy both!

My Uncle Roger put in a lot of hours fabricating the rear hitch. Several times he put something together that had to come apart and then remade... He decided to fabricate his own back plate for the rear end housing. He would build it tough enough to not only support he hitch but also take strain on the hydraulic ram on it. In this pic you can see the general location of the ram and the 1 1/2" c channel lift frame. At this point we hadn't decided on the length of the hitch... Lots of Geometry went into this. Uncle Rog kept saying he wished that he had paid more attention in Geometry class. It might have reduced the number of "redos". This was the first complete setup. It did require a little more modifying to clear the fuel tank but it is built probably 5x stronger than it needs to be in order to lift a 150# plow! Back plate painted. Notice the ram mount in the middle and the hitch brackets on the right and left with stiff back gussets across. This is the hitch painted IH white. Notice the cradle with the slotted links to attach the top of the ram to allowing for an inch of float. Now we need to bolt it up, get Hydraulic lines made, and test it out for function and any problems that could arise...

I would agree since you are doing a restore do it right the first time, then you will know what you have no surprises later

I have the same 1978 single stage short chute snow thrower on my old '88 520H I just use for snow drifts. I like the height adjustment lever and wheels and the way the short chute throwers spread out the snow. My '95 520H with cab and dozer blade is my main snow removal machine on my long gravel access road.

I agree with jdleach .I worked at Chrysler for 37 years and the 2.2 ,2.5 And 318 were the finest engines Chrysler made. I was a timing auditor for the 2.2 and 2.5 liter .these engines ran great. I put 275,000 miles on a 318 and after selling it the guy put more miles on it.on a personal note we sold all the machineing for the 2.2 and 2.5 to China .

Hmm... The 2.2 was the most powerful engine in its class at the time, and I rarely ever had to rebuild one. Unlike most 4-cylinders of the period, the cam design was such that, if the timing belt broke, you didn't scrag your valves. Catastrophic valve damage was the norm for most all the other engines made then. The 2.2 was indeed, a rough running engine. That is why Chrysler later came out with the 2.5 that had balance shafts. The drawback was that they lost horsepower due to the change, and were stroked to try to lessen the loss. As far as durability, I never seen any problems. In the Ford dealership I worked (after I left the Chrysler dealership), the Escort engines were another matter. Ford eventually changed the head design (the bent valve syndrome), but other weaknesses were still present. One such issue was the poor crankcase ventilation. Every Escort I ever worked on, had in short order a seriously sludged up engine, with thick deposits under the valve cover and on the head. Then again, there was the issue of the 302 with the poorly designed piston skirts. I saw a large number of them things come in with "piston slap". Slap produced a ticking noise very much like a weak hydraulic lifter. Over time, the piston would eventually wear into the cylinder bore where the skirt was slapping, and then break off a chunk of the skirt. At that time, and of the Big Three, Chrysler had the best engine control system. They were the first ones to use OBD, as it was simpler, more reliable, and MUCH easier to diagnose. Did not work on too much GM stuff, but Ford had a disaster in their EEC IV system. I recall poring through the "H" manual trying to figure out some problem on a Mustang, Thunderchicken, or truck, and having to drag out breakout boxes, wiring harnesses, and all kinds of other crap to chase down driveabilty problems. Damn H manual was as thick as a Webster's dictionary, and came in a very large ring binder (to ease the technician in inserting the continuous stream of changes published by the company). The diagnostic manuals at Chrysler were specific to each vehicle, and were rarely more than 50 or 60 pages. OBD proved to be such a good system, EVERYONE uses it now, even Ford. During the 80s, Chrysler had the better engineering, quality, and support. One only needs to review the numerous articles in the press at the time. Not only were they able to turn the company around with solid products, but they also were the leader in innovation. In 1984 they introduced the minivan (whether you like them or not, they were, and still are a very popular platform). In 1987 they were the first American company to completely ditch the carburetor, and go with fuel injection across the board. Even the Japanese still made carbureted engines for several years. Speaking of Chrysler in the years before, or after the 1980s is another matter, but during the 80s, they made very good products. Not perfect, but very good.

Mike all I can say is the new belt looks to be softer. The other is more on line for heavy duty electric motor drive. This is a harder looking belt. But any way I am a happy camper now.

Excellent news Gary!! The right drive belt is always the best answer.

If you have completely eliminated any faint gas odor then the tank is already fairly clean. While I know most old bikers and garden tractor guys don't mind if they smell a little like gas the rest of the family, not so much.

Thanks!! Guys for your recommendations. . Think I'll pass on the clothes dryer trick. Mrs. TIG might give me the boot..... I do like AMC's idea with the hot laps around the yard. Vroooooom!! lol Did some looking around online and some guys are using something as simple as vinegar to clean out as gas tank then a solution of baking soda to neutralize the acic in the vinegar. Many Thanks!! Again, you guys are awesome!!

Please, don't put an old gas tank in the dryer you use to dry your clothes.

Thats gonna be a snow eatin XI!!!

Nice 314, Craig....... Won't be long and you're gonna need a bigger garage.

Yes you did, and it was down and locked as it has been while starting it all week. I guess that last lock down she finally went that millimeter where the safety wouldn't work. Will check that tomorrow. On a better note, cleaned the connections on the ammeter, now she's working. Got to like an easy solve. Lol, all kinds of one after the next surprises on the pig. Glenn

It would have to be my 520.

My favorite is the 854 And that's because I was born 8/54

This little guy here... makes my heart skip a beat too.

No, I had one a few years ago that I built a wt. box for and had 600lbs in it and wide rims and I used it for a year and sold it. And my friend is still using it 6 or 7 years later and no problems.

Sand the rust off first, then paint it with a VHT Flameproof Flat Black paint. I have done it with many mufflers. Available online and at Advance Auto Parts, plus other stores. Follow the curing instructions on the can.