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Today I had the pleasure of meeting RedSquare Member @turnnleft and his grandson. They had three of the nicest I have seen; a custom and two RJ 35s, 1956 and 1957. There were quite a few Wheel Horses to choose from in the flea market. One Wheel Horse had a rather unique engine, wasn't able to find the owner to find out what it was. Toys for tots was there. This drive-able log splitter was interesting Lots of others on hand too. This dog was riding around the fair grounds all day Hope you enjoyed the show.

Absolutely.... best plowing tractor I ever owned for plowing, easy to maneuver, start, plenty of grunt and sips gas.....

I'd like to have one of each of them. But in the meantime, my favorite is the 1067 for its sound, steering, and six-speed transmission.

I love it , my wife came in as I was laughing looked at the screen and said" You guys have too much time on your hands" and left the room.

10-21-1975 Fisk homers off foul pole On October 21, 1975, Boston Red Sox catcher Carlton Fisk hits a homer off the left-field pole to beat the Cincinnati Reds in the sixth game of the World Series. The Sox went on to lose the championship, of course. Still, even 30 years later, the films and photos of Fisk urgently trying to wave the ball into fair territory provide some of the game’s most enduring and exciting images. As team president Larry Lucchino pointed out, “the appeal of baseball at its best was illustrated that night.” Before Game 6 began, the Sox were trailing the Reds three games to two. They took an early lead—they were winning 3-0 after their first at-bat of the game—but the Reds tied the game in the fifth. In the top of the eighth, the Big Red Machine took a 6-3 lead. But then, with one out to go in that inning, Red Sox pinch-hitter Bernie Carbo stepped to the plate. He knocked a three-run homer into the stands, and the game was tied. In the next four innings, the teams shuffled through a remarkable 12 pitchers as they struggled to gain the upper hand. The Sox failed to score in the ninth with the bases loaded and nobody out, and one of their outfielders made a miraculous catch in the 11th to prevent Cincinnati from ending the game. Then, at 12:34 in the morning, Carlton Fisk came to bat at the bottom of the 12th. He cracked Pat Darcy’s pitch hard to the left. He stood at the plate, bouncing up and down and flailing at the ball as though he was helping an airplane land on a dark runway. “I was just wishing and hoping,” he said at a ceremony a few years ago. “Maybe, by doing it, you know, you ask something of somebody with a higher power. I like to think that if I didn’t wave, it would have gone foul.” Whether or not the waving was responsible, the ball bounced off of the bright-yellow foul pole above the Green Monster for a home run. Fenway’s organist played the Hallelujah Chorus from Handel’s Messiah while Fisk rounded the bases. Unfortunately, it turned out that the Curse of the Bambino was a stubborn one after all. The Sox lost the series 4-3 the next night, on a ninth-inning single to center field. In 2005, to commemorate his amazing homer, the Red Sox officially named the left-field pole after Fisk.

Hands down... mine is my dibs tractor.

I would have to say that my favorite model that I currently own would be my 1277...it was my first Wheel Horse and will always have a special place in my heart, sadly it's sitting in the back corner right now waiting on a new engine, so I have to make do with seat time on my wife's Commando V8. But my favorite model I'm currently looking for would be a C160 and my dream tractor (even though some say it's not a true Horse) is a D250, just something about their size really draws my attention.

Put a few sugar cubes, and carrots in your pocket, and they'll follow you straight home to your stable! I just learned that the guy who donated this tractor to the salvation army had been using it for years as a pulling tractor. It's a shame that this little guy got hacked up. Hopefully a has a new future down the line.

I am new to wheel horses and like my 1277 with loader a lot, and have a 401 on the way to me. What I really think I want is a round hood, front motor gear drive, with a kohler. Not sure what # tractor that is yet!! Randy

My favorite is a design I have in my head. A GT 14 frame, a tough Gear Drive(have not decided if Wheel horse is the best I could go with), independent Hydraulic pump for deck and 3 point lift, 22HP predator, and a cup holder. Until I build it, the GT16 I did is my favorite.

Another saved from the grave. This thing sat in the widow neighbors yard for twenty years. After mowing around it all summer I offered her $100 for it (I mowed her grass for free). A little carb work and it runs like a sewing machine. Spent all day freeing up linkages and everything works great. Picking up new tires tomorrow and it's ready to chew the dirt. It's an 80 model Troybilt Horse with a 7hp Kohler. My other neighbor asked if I was starting a red stable. Happy tractoring. Mark

well my work horse gt-1642 is almost done. finished my rewiring and ended up playing check around on solenoids trying to find a good used one. well i did the one off the c125 lol. ended up swapping voltage regulators didnt like looks of one off the c125 so i used the one off the parts b80. got wiring all done and got machine to fire but wasnt running right. backfiring like crazy wouldnt idle and wouldnt even rev up acted like you turned the key off. so i swapped carbs no change. so i got on google and doing some searching couldnt find much. then it hit me what the issue could be. ill just let this picture do the talking. had a jd 214 come in last year at mower junkyard with same symptoms which we fixed and customer was happy. so i put a used condensor on fired the 12hp kohler up ran great.

Thanks for all the pics Hillbilly.. I have all the parts for mine but have never had it installed. This will be a big help. Firecop hang in there. The guys on here are always a big help...

Sounds familiar. I had a guy w a 520h 250ish hours snow blower and 42" RD in PA just last week. Texted back forth several times. Was hard to nail down for appointment. Then all of a sudden his son sold it. Move on and keep looking.

I just have to say this...butt head that I can be. Spinach might help!!

Guys ...being an HVAC dude like @ACman I am a brazing fan and do most of my repairs with off the shelf pre fluxed brazing rods. Thanks for the looog posts @jdleach learned a few things!

The ground strap makes it sound to me like the tractor it came from had a magneto ignition.

BTW, here was my plow tractor last year and again this year. This year, I will have an electric actuator and I'll see how that will work out. Last year I had to use the manual lift arm that you see on the right rear fender. Not too bad until you had to pull it out of the ground at the end of the furrow. BTW, I would take my 416-8, but I still need some hitch pieces. I have the clevis hitch, but I took it off an Electro 12 and that set up isn't the same that a 416 will take. I may be ordering some stuff from a RS vendor soon.

Very nice 107! Here is a Cub Cadet 100 I spent a solid yr. restoring. I rebuilt every component on this tractor including the engine, it truly was like new when done. It had all the bells and whistles on it other than hydraulic lift. I sold this tractor 14 yrs. ago, this is one tractor I wish I still had. I saw my old 100 at a show last yr. The guy I sold it to saw me and we talked for a while. It still looks and runs awesome.

If this is not allowed, I understand. I have a friend that has an AC B-1 (parts tractor) and a B-110 that he is interested in getting rid of. The B-110 is a working tractor with mostly garden duty (see the tiller). He wants to sell the entire lot. If you are seriously interested, PM me and I will give you his phone number. The machines are in Dubois County Indiana.

854 for Me also....I was born in '64, so the tractor and I are the same age. This is the best running tractor I've ever owned!!

My favorite is the 854 And that's because I was born 8/54

OK, so now that you mention them...maybe the black hoods are my favorites too.

This little guy here... makes my heart skip a beat too.

My favorite is what ever one I am on and mowing or what ever it my be doing.

ALL of them! Something about the 953/1054 has been attracting me lately

I just got this a few weeks back. It was a long way to go, but it is by far my favorite!

Got some goodies in the mail today, an oil bath and a shower head! I put the shower head on my early 58 and the oil bath on my regular 58. My early 58 has the oil bath, shower head, schnacke, and early hitch, so parts wise it's completed. And my regular 58 has a shower head and an oil bath on it also. I know have oil baths on all 4 of my Kohler powers RJs! What does everyone think? Hope you enjoy the pics!

TO You are not the first to ask this question, but I bet you are the first to do it on your first post! As you may be able to tell by my screen name; the 953 is my favorite, followed closely by the 1054, GT-14, RS, RJ. Suburban; what the heck, I like them all!

Very difficult to pick a favorite. Always a Kohler "believer" but finding my '90 520-8 a go to machine!

Most guys will be picking something that's in their shed/garage right now....but not me. I'm partial to the Black-Hoods (1980-1984). Hands down my favorite series. I'm currently in the market for a couple tractors and one is a hydro Black Hood (the other is an 854 or close to it). I've owned a lot of Black Hoods but currently have none in my stash ! Mike...........

$125 to $175 seems to be Fastenal's magic number. They were going to ship a C195 from Ct to buffalo for $175, and every quote I have gotten fell in that price range

my favourite is the wheel horse 518 h

still has the original ign switch and was going to put a solenoid in with another switch. guy at work said he had some old ford starter solenoids he would give me. he brought me in today a sack of wiring from a old monkey ward tractor says I can have it that it was all working when he took it off. with that being said it has a three prong ign. switch just like my 857 it has a ground strap on switch going to the case on side but it also has a solenoid wired in also even got a real good condition voltage regular with it all just like my 857 uses. question is will this monkey ward ign. switch work on my 857 ? heck it was all free

Hillbilly your right on for what I need

Thanks for the great photos looks like a lot of items for sale and great old tractors. Hope you had a great time there.

Just bought a pound of Anti Borax #1 15.00 shipped. You are a real expert and I feel very blessed to read your post.

In all my years of using a torch set, I have never had arrestors or check valves on the sets I have operated. That said, I see the benefit. Whenever you have blow back, evidenced by a loud pop or bang accompanied by the extinguishing of the flame, hot partially unburned gas travels backwards through the tip and into the mixer. Although I have never seen it, I suppose if it is bad enough, it could travel all the way to the regulator. What check valves and arrestors do, is stop those sparks and gases at some intervening point. Makes the set safer, but in my mind performs a more useful function. That is to keep the carbon residue a blow back leaves from encrusting the innards of the passage ways. As for the difference between an arrestor and a check valve, I am not sure, but suspect they perform the same basic function, which is to prevent or limit gases from traveling the wrong direction in your torch passages. While you can have flash back from holding your tip too close to the work, one of the biggest reasons is improper order in shutting off the flame. Again, turn the oxygen off first, then the acetylene. As for the placement of the arrestors, follow the directions of the manufacturer, or ask your local welding jobber. My feeling is that whether you use the arrestors, or the check valves, I would want them as close to the mixer as possible. Since I have never used them, I just don't have the experience to say where the best position is. The flux you want is Anti-Borax #1, and is made by Superior. This stuff has been around for decades and works well. My shop was opened in 1946 by my grandfather and his partner, and over the years we used both Anti-Borax and Ferro Flux products. On the welding shelf I still have a can of Anti-Borax that is probably 40 years old (we would buy several cans at a time). Still has about 1/3 of a can of flux in it, but quit using it as mice got into the shop and pissed in the can. Flux still works, but I can't stand the smell of burning rodent pee. Got another can. At any rate, the flux sold today is the self-same stuff, down to the antiquated labeling. I would get a can from these guys online: http://shop.atlaswelding.net/ You may find the flux cheaper elsewhere if you want to look, but a little less than $9 a 1 lb. can sounds reasonable to me. I wish I could tell you to just go to your local welding supply, but you very likely will find they don't carry it. Columbus, Indiana is a very industrial city with a lot of shops and factories. Have several welding suppliers, but none carry Anti-Borax anymore. Not many folks left who know how to actually weld (not braze or solder) with acetylene, so it doesn't pay for them to keep it in stock. As for the tip, I would start with a medium sized one if you welding on the deck. the thin sheet metal found in the fender pan and hood will require one of the smaller sizes. If I remember correctly, most welding sets include either four or six tips. Pick one from the middle of the pack for the deck metal. I have long forgotten the tip sizes, and just select the one I need by the size of the hole. Another bit of advice. Although it is a little late, since you have already purchased your set, I suggest in the future that you limit any purchases of tips, mixers, regulators, and other hardware to one of the long time makers of welding equipment. The "big three" are Smith, Victor, and Harris. The first two firms are American, and Harris is Canadian. All three make fine products that will literally last you a lifetime. Victor and Harris may make or sell some cheaper models, and I would shy away from those, but overall, you cannot go wrong with them. The king, hell the emperor of torch outfits is Smith. Their top-line regulators and mixers are chrome plated, and beautifully manufactured components. Almost a work of art, and something you rarely see anymore. Of course the price reflects that high level of quality, but they are well worth the cost. I would look closely at the set you bought. It may very well have been made by Victor or Harris, and sold under another name. Try to find out who the real manufacturer is. Once you have determined who it is, and say it is Victor, you can then buy Victor tips and other parts, as they will likely interchange.

Here's a couple pics of the linkage from the front to the rear (column shift style), the shift lever has a spring to hold it up while neutral/forward then press to go to reverse this needs " lubed as well as the "ball and hiem joints and pivot points between the front rod and rear rod to cam plate and it's a fine line between too tight and just right on the the "friction" nut on top of the cam plate which should only be lubed with "graphite powder" if so inclined but the roller cam could be lubed lightly with a moly spray lube or similar, is used "red" spray lube, hope this helps,Jeff.

Dan, as I wrote in my too long post above, you need a special flux for welding steel and iron. Used to be able to get Ferro Flux, but that appears to now be unavailable. The stuff you want is called "anti-borax". There are several makers on the web that sell it, one being Superior. Be aware that you don't want to breathe the fumes for an extended period, as there are health risks. However, in a well ventilated area, and not welding for hours and days on end, you should be OK. Personally, I have welded with it for years, and have suffered no ill effects. No risks like cancer, but the stuff has been known to cause lung and skin irritation. Coat hanger will work fine, just scrape off the shellac, or whatever coating it may have on it. I would ditch the check valves. If you want to ensure you don't have flash/blow backs, ALWAYS turn the oxygen off on the mixer FIRST, then the acetylene. One MAJOR caution I forgot to include in my first post. KEEP OIL ABSOLUTELY AWAY FROM THE OXYGEN TANK VALVE AND REGULATOR!!!!! Make sure your paws are not an oily mess when changing out your oxygen tank, and never let oil get near your regulator. If you somehow allow any type of oil to enter into the oxygen tank valve or regulator, you run a quite high risk of blowing the regulator up. The reason that this can happen is due to the "diesel effect". As you are aware, diesels operate without spark plugs because it was discovered that if you compress a liquid fuel (kerosene, oil) combined with air to a certain point, it will ignite on its own. The same thing can happen in your regulator. A minute amount of oil inside your valve or regulator can almost instantaneously heat to ignition when hit by 2500 PSI of pure oxygen. The results ain't pretty. It is rare that such an event happens in industry, as most folks who work with compressed air and oxygen are aware of the potential danger. It does happen occasionally though to persons who are unfamiliar with the risks, such as novice welders, backyard and basement mechanics and tinkerers, and scuba divers. Yup, divers. Many are not up on the diesel effect, and will carelessly stow or transport their gear, allowing oil to contaminate the tank valves and regulators. Do yourself a favor and read up on torch welding, and familiarize yourself on the dangers. While there are risks with using such an apparatus, they are great tools that can be used safely when operated intelligently.

My modified C-120/180.

Anything round hood for me. Although I do like my C120 a lot. I would like a C160. Really anything Wheel Horse appeals to me except for the low budget models that are not garden tractors excluding the Reo lawn skiffs.

An oil bath and shower head? There's a joke in there somewhere! Your RJs look good!

Ok got a lot done. Set plug gap to .035". Lightly oiled pre filter. Had to remove both hitches to get to transmission plug. Took my son 45 minutes to fill it. I may have started it, but found out real quick that the tube used to check it's level fills up fast or over fills... Lost about 1\4 of a bottle so I let the kid do it right. Only took him 15 minutes to put both hitches back on. I tried to start, but had gas coming out the bottom of the tank. So I bought some stuff to fix it. But when I went to the dealer to pick up the boot (which you know you've found the right guy when all you do is give him the 4 digit number and he says oh you rebuilding a Wheel Horse). I told him about my possible fix for the tank and he open one of his many drawers and pulled out two parts T0104048 fuel valve and SS125336 rubber fuel tank bushing. Only cost me 21 dollars and was way faster and better then the way I was going to do it. Needless to say after putting all these parts on it fired right up. A week later I was able to drive it outside and went through all the gears. Runs great! Still need to pick up 2 front wheels and a steering wheel.

Worked in HVAC and also played with torches for many years (30+/-). In those years have gotten many of tanks with messed up threads , even empty ones . In my years of hauling tanks around in the van and the tanks in the shop I never bled my hoses or backed off regulators . I always shut tanks off and made sure touch valves were firmly closed . To me it's just wasting gas bleeding hoses and adjusting regs , every time you go to use them . Ok let me here it from the safety patrol .

My solution to no cab but having to have emergency lighting

burnt my finger badly on the GT14 choke cable at the weekend how I hear you ask... well the fuel had leaked out over the last 4 months through a split pipe so I refilled it, as I was cranking it through I though I could see smoke from the carb So I stopped, could see anything but lifted the hood and cranked again - yes it was the cable smoking... So I did as any fool would and checked if it was hot! Turned out despite there being a lot of metal on a GT14, I had a poor earth for the starter and the path it chose was the choke cable!!!!!

We have a term for tractors picked up on the East coast near the ocean: Sea Horses.

You may have a problem with buying what you want in your general vicinity - I can recommend Fastenal for shipping. I recently purchased a full Eaton 1100 transaxle and had it shipped from Richmond Va. to Bloomington Ind. for $125. Weight - about 180 pounds...probably heavier than a 2 stage blower...No one likes to pay freight charges, but the other freight companies all wanted around $300 for the trip...made the purchase possible for me...just sayin...