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Got some goodies in the mail today, an oil bath and a shower head! I put the shower head on my early 58 and the oil bath on my regular 58. My early 58 has the oil bath, shower head, schnacke, and early hitch, so parts wise it's completed. And my regular 58 has a shower head and an oil bath on it also. I know have oil baths on all 4 of my Kohler powers RJs! What does everyone think? Hope you enjoy the pics!

Haven't bought a tractor battery in a year or so and I usually buy the Everstarts from Wal-mart (absolute garbage). I only buy them because they are cheap but I always get what I pay for and they never seem to last. So tonight I decided to never buy another cheapie from Wal-mart and I went to Tractor Supply. Bought this one and discovered it has a handle! What a great feature! Hopefully this one will last longer than the cheapies. Mike.....

Have a running 1045 to sell, with mower deck and snowblower. 10 Hp Kohler engine. Bought new, one owner, belongs to my in-laws. Location: Indianapolis. What would be a fair price?

made me a little wheel horse work bench out of some repurposed oak ,and these old table legs I had laying around , urethaned in a logo sticker I picked up at the show . I couldn't wait to take a picture those white milky streaks are there because its not dry yet

Had nothing planed out to work on today so I headed to garage to see what I could find to occupy my day decided to do few small projects that I have been blowing off. Ran out got parts and once I replaced pig tail on my truck for pulling trailers, fixed the switch on my bench grinder that died in the spring (just by passed the switch to keep using it don't tell OSHA ). Decided to see how well the chains fit that I picked up last spring since last month I mounted the NOS wheel weights I got at same time. My tires are still 22x7.5x12 since tread was good and only had to tube 1 to start using it in spring I see no reason to change them. The chains are 23x7.5x12 so figured I would shorten 1 link on both sides see how that worked. It wasn't to bad could have added bungee cords to hold them tight but figured what the heck why not see if I could shorten another link. By leaving backside 1 link and going 2 links on frontside it snugged the chain to where I can just pull it away from tire a small amount. After I got this done while looking at it I thought maybe I should look for the u-links since chain is available and maybe next summer when looking for something to do I could add more cross chains for added traction. Guess this winter will let me know if I need them when climbing the drives at mine and the kids houses.

Here is mine completed. I put a 14 Kohler on it. Almost complete, but done now.

The belt guard may say 1045, but the tractor pictured is not a 1045. A true 1045 would have the round rear fenders, different tank stand and different PTO engagement (a foot pedal and not a lever). That tractor looks like a big block and is probably a '66 or later model. Other experts can render their opinion on which model this tractor truly is.

For those interested in the more esoteric things... Albert Champion, a world famous cyclist (bicycles), came to the US from France in 1905 and, after becoming interested in automobiles, formed the Albert Champion Company to import French automotive parts, and manufacture ignition components including spark plugs. This initial firm was in partnership with several brothers by the name of Stranahan. A few years later, Champion left the firm to work with William Durant, the creator of General Motors. After a time, Champion formed a new company in Flint, MI by the name of the Champion Ignition Company making, among other things, spark plugs. His former partners sued him over his name, as their firm still went by the name of the Albert Champion Company. Champion eventually settled out of court, though he had to change the name of his new corporation. Both of Albert Champion's business firms are still in operation to this day, and still making spark plugs. The name he changed his second company to? AC Spark Plug. And now you know... The rest of the story.

Here's a challenge! So some of the members here seem to be able to identify any Wheel Horse and we see a lot of posts IDing tractors. So yesterday I spent the day finishing up blasting and then epoxy primed and painted my latest project. Let's see how good you guys are at identifying a disassembled Horse. Hint-the hood, steering wheel, wheels, and seat are not pictured. As a bonus, point out the two parts in the photo that do not belong with the others.

Builld quantity (as with most models) is unknown. The 1046 an extremely short run model though. They never even made a manual for it. Only documentation was a parts list that had the engine differences from the 1056.

That is a 1966 1046 with the short oil pan and adapter plate to frame.....nice tractor

under the hydro / brake control plate. I am done for the night. Glenn

half a basket....... a wipe down on the rims for kicks. Glenn

Greetings all. I recently picked up a 1975 C-160 Auto. I managed to fire it up the other day. Probably the first time in at least ten years. It's such a neat old machine. My plans are to get it in serviceable shape, use it for a while, then blow it apart for a complete resto. I'm glad I found your site. Lots of great info here.

Check both rear wheel hub keys as well. Only one has to be sheared to prevent the tractor from moving.

I've seen fewer 1046's than 1045's. If that sucker is in original condition (minus the seat), then WOW! If I was selling it, I wouldn't take $500 for it if it was that nice of an original. Steve

Wow Glenn!, how can you live so far out in the sticks that there is no TSC. I'm way out in the boonies and have 4 within a 45 minute drive. Closest is 10 minutes. I don't know how I would bet by without TSC. Bolts by the pound are the best part. LOL!!!!! Kurt;

That is a nice looking Horse Glenn. Remember one nice thing about this hobby is there is no deadline. You can work on it some and then walk away and collect your thoughts. Take your time and Im sure you will get the bugs worked out.

Now, I jump in the operators seat, it creeps forward, barely, stops, rolls good. But nothing from the trans. At this time my buddy Pete pulls up. I got him into the red movement. He is with me on the trailer. me, him, the driver cant figure whats up. look underneath, broken belt to the trans. hey guys,,,what number belt do I need? Asking? Now I am cussin to beat the band, I dont think the driver ever heard more F Bombs in his life. I think at that moment I could have commited a crime and been in jail. The driver hauls off down the road. I did thank him though. Well, me and Pete get a rope , haul it to the garage with the 520. Now I am troubleshooting, tiny bit of spark, dont know if getting gas, fkd up wiring, spark plugs, pitch black. needle jets seem all over the place, couldnt get it to pop with starting fluid,,,yes starting fluid, that always works. Anyway, running for some new champion plugs RC12YC .. unless I bought from you guys, This WILL NOT happen again....or will it..lol. some pics...of my pig in a poke Glenn sorry Steve, I was typin and cussin.....heres your pics.....calm down. Glenn

Ok, so the delivery guy gets here 10 am sharp. I am outside by mailbox ,, ANTICIPATING. Finally I see RED ,,on a trailer, coming up the road. Yahoo, jump for joy.. Now the nitty gritty. the hardest starting sob you ever saw, with a puff of smoke she cranks. while he is starting, I am looking, the old saying about pictures. now exactly what I am thinking I bought, but,, it will have to do. I bought it, no choice now. DANGER DANGER buying stuff from a strager that you cant see. Am I pissed, slowly getting there

Well...The two ladders are clearly not original WH - either used or NOS...They are the wrong color...

Now we are getting somewhere!! OK...do what Bob said. So far you may have a sheared or lost wood ruff key in one of the hubs of the rear tires. Check that 1st. Best to pull off both tires and then both hubs...it could be either one...guessing it's the right side.

Your right Walt. It is right around the corner. I have been getting ready too. The new weights look good.

The guys are right about the id tag location. Here a pic of mine... Mike.....

Wow Glenn! - that is cleaning up really nice. Kurt

1 YES 2 YES 3 YES 4 SORT OF. IF I SPIN RIGHT SIDE TIRE SLOWLY LEFT TIRE DOSE NOT MOVE, HOWEVER IF I SPIN RIGHT SIDE FAST IT TURNS LEFT SIDE IN OPPOSITE DIRECTION SLOWLY. IF I SPIN LEFT TIRE ANY SPEED RIGHT TIRE TURNS OPPOSITE DIRECTION AT THE SAME SPEED. 5 YES, I GUESS TRYING TO TURN THE BRAKE/CLUTCH PULLEY BY HAND IS HARDER THAN I THOUGHT.

making headway. new belt ordered, replacing wires, power washed. still running rough, trouble tweeking the carb in. Glenn

It's an older one than my era, I can't identify it. But I like the way you've decorated your yard.

Tony, it is almost impossible (and I say almost) to have the symptoms you have at the same time. With the idea that you may not have to open up yet, let's try a few things and answer a few questions. 1. can you push the horse around with the trans in neutral? 2. can you push the horse around with the trans in gear? Now put the rear end of the horse on blocks, take off the belt guard and drive belt. 3. when you shift gears, does the shifter feel like you are moving the shift forks into the gears? 4. with the trans in neutral, turn one of the tires in any direction. does the other tire turn in the opposite direction? Do the same with the other tire. Should be smooth and quiet. 5. with the trans in neutral, turn both tires in the same direction. Is the brake shaft turning now? It should turn now. Let us know what you find.

I don't' think they came with hood mounted faucets either. I'm sorry I couldn't help myself. Seriously, the tractor looks like it's in good shape and someone will surely grab it. As far as a fair price, it's worth what someone is willing to pay. Probably $300-500 range.

I own a machine shop, and have welded, brazed, and soldered about everything imaginable. After almost 40 years, have yet to blow myself up due to not bleeding the lines. Too, in all the shops I have worked in, not one ever bled the lines on a torch set, they only made sure the valves were closed tightly. The valves on acetylene and oxygen tanks from firms such as Airgas, Linde, Indiana Oxygen, and all the other big names, are the finest made, and are designed for extremely long life. They are made to be opened and shut repeatedly for literally decades. Their quality is the same as the tanks themselves. The oxygen tanks are designed to safely store at pressures well over 3000 PSI, although in practice I have rarely seen one filled to over 2800. The oxygen tanks are required by law to be "hydrostat tested" to ensure they have not weakened every few years. The pressure at which they are tested is about twice thew working pressure if I recall correctly. Every time a tank is tested, the date of the test is stamped into the tank just below the valve. To give an idea of how strong these tanks are, I have just recently gotten oxygen tanks that have dates on them that go all the way back to 1947. The above said, one will occasionally find a tank with a bleeding valve. If such is the case, take it back to the supplier for an exchange. The regulators are not so robust. Even with a high quality set such as Smith, Victor, or Harris, they are made to be adjusted only when different pressures are needed for a given job. When done with the torch set, lightly turn off the mixer valves (the ones on the torch handle), with the oxygen being shut off first (prevents popping and blow back). And I mean lightly seating the valves. Mixer valves are similar to the needle valves on a carburetor, and can be damaged by over tightening. Then firmly close the tank valves. Jerry is correct regarding the approximate pressures for different torch jobs. The only difference is that I normally leave my oxygen regulator at around 35 to 40 PSI, and just adjust the oxy. flow at the mixer for welding and brazing. When doing any welding or brazing, you really need some sort of "flux" to clean the metal as you apply the filler. In brazing (brass/copper alloy), you can purchase some specially prepared compound from your local welding shop, or you can save your money and buy a container of 20 Mule Team Borax soap. It is all the same stuff. Borax is the ingredient that does the cleaning. If you go the detergent route, make sure there isn't a bunch of additives. I buy the borax labeled as a laundry supplement, the stuff you add to your regular detergent to aid in cleaning, as about the only additive is a scent. To apply to the area, you heat the area to be brazed and sprinkle a bit of borax there, or you can heat your brass rod to a dull red, then dip it into the powder. When you heat the brass to melting, you will see the borax turn to a clear liquid and spread all about the joint, carrying away impurities as does. Dirty metal may require larger amounts of flux. Regarding welding steel, you can use coat hanger wire. A coat hanger is a mild steel very much like the steel used on mower decks, seat pans, frames, mule drives, etc. Shafting used in these tractors, along with mower blades are an alloy steel that contains other metals such as molybdenum, chromium, etc., and higher levels of carbon. You really don't want to use a hanger on these parts, and likely don't want to weld them anyway. If welding mild steel, you will also want to flux the weld area, but you need a higher temperature flux, as borax will not work very well. In this case you need to get the flux from your welding supplier or online. Look for something labeled FerroFlux, or similar. Make sure it is listed as being suitable for welding steel. In appearance, it will be a powder, but unlike borax which is white, a ferrous (iron-based) flux will have a reddish appearance. As a side note, a ferrous flux is also used to weld cast iron when using the oxy-acetylene method, and using cast iron rod. I will not go into welding cast iron, as it requires several added steps, and requires a high level of skill and experience, not to mention time. On the flame itself, there are essentially three types. They are carburizing/reducing, oxidizing, and neutral. Carburizing means you have more acetylene in the mix, neutral is a balanced mixture between the oxygen and acetylene, and oxidizing has a larger amount of oxygen. In most cases, you will use a neutral flame. Carburizing is employed when working with cast iron, and other applications, and a slight oxidizing flame can be used with brazing. I suggest looking up the numerous articles on flame types that can be found on the Web. They will describe what their uses are, and the actual appearance of the flame itself. Lastly, as I am getting tired of typing and have chores to do, I will add a couple things about the tank valves. As has already been said, you open the acetylene tank valve no more than a single turn, a half turn or so will usually suffice. Only enough to make sure you have sufficient flow and pressure when welding/cutting. The oxygen valve can be opened all the way. When you have gotten new tanks, before installing your regulators you absolutely have to clear any dirt from the internal threads and valves on the tanks first. You do this by "cracking" the valves before you screw on the regulator. After your tanks are securely mounted and chained/strapped to the cart, you briefly open each valve approximately 3/4 turn, then quickly close. The outflow of high pressure gas will blow out any dust and dirt from the opening. Make sure you are not standing in front of the opened valve unless you want to be injected with said dirt, or get a face full of smelly acetylene.

Success. this what happens when you guess. I did not see that hole on the deck arm DUUUUUHHHH.

Good looking C175 Glenn! Regarding the loose regulator, is the battery getting a proper charge? If not, remove the plug from the regulator and check the voltage at the center female terminal. You should have 12vdc there with the engine running. The 12volts there comes straight off the ignition switch. Also if the engine is rubber mounted I recommend adding a grounding jumper wire from one if the regulator mounting bolts to the negative post on the battery. If you can't get your hands on a metal seat pan any time soon, I can bring you one to the Big Show next year. Enjoy!

Also any rust left on the metal will come back to haunt you some day. Make sure the inside of the rim is cleaned up too. In my experience the inside of rims are some times rusted worse than the out sides. You won't see it once the tires on but it will eventually work its way through.

Now you can carry it with you at all times. Take it on business trips for those lonely moments, power your flashlights ect. I usually get 3-4 yrs. out of the Huskees.

Both of the pulley boxes function the same - the change was made so that you could see both indicators while adjusting instead of going from one side to the other to see where the indicator was.

Here's what I use for night plowing. Magnet Mount. Plugs in to a cig. adaptor I mounted under the hood...has built in switch... Works like a charm... Oh...and a "cab"? What is that for?

The culprit, still in the garage working. retirement is grand. Glenn thank you JD. maybe I better post in the want ads....who has a metal pan? lol

Will be taking a break from this for a while. I used Marvel Mystery oil to clean and coat all the sheet metal and it looks much better but I'm now losing all the skin on my hands. It's to the point that my fingers are so sensitive that I'm having difficulty drawing my recurve and as this is bow season here it Texas that just won't work, I've got meat to put in the freezer. Richard.

Well.... regarding the Champion/Autolite topic, I recall in the 1980s doing a stint at a Chrysler dealership. Found that the 2.2L, 318, 2.5L, all the way up to the 440 would run awful on the Autolites. Also found over the years that the Champions worked best in the 239 flatheads I have run. That said, had some issues with the last few Champions in my '49 Ford F-2, and am currently running Autolites. It does seem to perform better. On the other hand, my Grand Cherokee ('04) likes the Champions best. My feeling is that quality issues crop up from time to time with about all brands of plugs, and that accounts for variation over time as far as what works best in a given engine. The drive belt is an interesting item also. Initially got the wrong belt for my C175, and had to take it back and get the correct one. When it came in, it was also too long. Checked the part numbers, and it is supposed to be the correct belt. Looked closely at the ragged out one I took off, and found it is a Dayco L582. Translation: L= Lawn and Garden, 5= 1/2" wide, and 82 is the length. Why the 82" belt fits correctly, I am not sure. Worn out motor mounts could account for part of it. I almost exclusively get my belts from Toro. All the belts on the 312-8 are Toros, and the ones I have bought for the C175 came from them. Quality is top notch. Great looking tractor Glenn. Don't get discouraged, these are great machines, even if you have to work on them to get them running properly, and well worth it.

Worked in HVAC and also played with torches for many years (30+/-). In those years have gotten many of tanks with messed up threads , even empty ones . In my years of hauling tanks around in the van and the tanks in the shop I never bled my hoses or backed off regulators . I always shut tanks off and made sure touch valves were firmly closed . To me it's just wasting gas bleeding hoses and adjusting regs , every time you go to use them . Ok let me here it from the safety patrol .

ok, It just fired up, but rough. Jerry, I will try those plugs. I fixed , temporarily, a lot of taped up wires. It started. new plugs installed. still sputters. but running. I noticed that on top of the flywheel cover, a little square box, tons of sparks flying out of that, whats in there. will post a picture. also, was just unferneath, took a pucture of the snapped belt. clues anyone? I am winging it, just wanted to hear it fire up. thanks for the comments on the pig in a poke. Glenn

I usually can only afford to buy junk, so I get to have the surprises of something working. You got a nice looking machine Glenn & I'm sure it's in good hands.

As an added measure of protection you can run electrical tape around the edge of the rim and remove it prior to inflation.

Sure looks good! I do know that my tractors sometimes don't always start exactly the way they should after a bumpy trailer ride. Maybe stirs up crud in the tank or the fuel bowl on the carb? Mike........

Gees Glen, I feel like my dog is teasing me with his squeaky squid and wants to play. I can't believe I even opened up this thread!! It is WORTHLESS WITHOUT PICTURES!!!

I prefer to paint my rims with the tires off. This allows me to make sure the inside of the rim gets protected with paint, especially when using tubes. When I put the tire on I put it on from the back or inside of the rim. If I use a tire machine I use this same practice. This way the outside of the rim that you'll see never gets a tool laid on it. I will brush touch any chips or scratches on the inside lip before I put the wheel back on.

not sure how much difference there is between a 520h and a 418a but I have a set of deestone 23/10.5x12 ags on my 520 and they don't rub on anything

So this is what a Michigan Pep Rally looks like. Where's Waldo??