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This rusty peice of an 854 followed me me a while back. Missing most of the sheetmetal, and engine, I decided to build sort of a 1045 ish tractor with a fresh rebuilt k181 and some leftover 856 parts. Let me know what you think

New to the forum and just thought I'd share a pic of the 314 I just bought. It's a 1985 314-A with 446 hours on the clock. I paid $400 for her with the assumption I'd be searching for a new deck, but after getting it home I found that the reason it was not working properly was that the belt was on wrong and the front attaching bar was upside down. It has one rust hole I need to patch, but the bearings are all good an with a new belt and sharpened blades she mows great. I did all the maintenance that's probably never been done and got everything properly adjusted yesterday. Pretty darn solid old piece of machinery! Much more stout than the new ones I was considering. Anyone know what the original price may have been on a machine like this?

Daddy Don C125 project

Hi Everyone. I recently rebuilt the pto clutch on my 1976 C-120 and figured id post some pictures and part numbers to save other time who are doing the same. I have the 6.75" OD clutch plate and didn't want to spend the money to get a new one from Toro so i ended up doing some research and re-lined it myself. I wasn't sure on the material so i took some measurements it looks like the originals are .125" thick stock. Clutch Material: McMaster #60895K11 http://www.mcmaster.com/#60895k11/=11rane8 It comes in a 7.5 x 7.5" square so you also have enough to re-line your brake like i did. I found the easiest way to cut it was to trace the OD of the old clutch plate and for the id i found a 4" angle grinder blade was the right diameter. I used a set of snips to trim the OD and a jigsaw to do the ID and seamed to work well. Extra material: Thin jigsaw blade i used: Final product: Now i also increased the contact area versus the original. The old one only contacted about an inch in width this one i had full contact on the bell of the pulley. My pulley was scored so i face it clean on the lather removing only the minimum need to get a full clean. YOu can chuck the narrow end of the bell on the pulley, just make sure the face is true (axial run-out <.005") I now have 2" of width on contact, it should work much better now. I prepped my old clutch backing plate by removing the old work clutch and the worn out broken rivets. Using a die grinder with an abrasive wheel works good. I then used a rougher disk to make little rough grooves in the face to make sure the clutch adheres better with the epoxy. Note the old contact area. Once the backing plate is cleaned use air and carb cleaner to thoroughly clean the new clutch material and the backing plate. Now i used Loctite 380 Instant Adhesive. We use this at work for similar materials on clutches and brakes. its oil heat and impact resistant and is literally the strongest fastest drying adhesive i've ever used it really works wonders. It cleans up with carb cleaner (even on your hands) t available the cheapest from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-135423-Toughened-Instant-Adhesive/dp/B000132VEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459388480&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+380 A zigzag pattern gives the best coverage to ensure it contacts and sticks evenly. Now make sure you just stick the clutch onto the backing plate and not the pulley I used the pulley as a plate to clamp the new lining onto the plate with the help of 3 clamps and left it there overnight. Just make sure the pulley is up so any drips don't stick the pulley to the other half. Now you can use those leftover pieces to also re-line the brake: same idea and process here... Since i had the whole thing apart anyways i decided to replace the bearings, they are a fortune from Toro and some aftermarket ones just didn't seem to be of high enough quality. I ended up finding a package deal on the originals on ebay so i figure did post the OEM bearing specs so you can find them yourselves locally or online its easier knowing the bearing manufacturers number than a Toro number. Ball Bearing (on the end taking the PTO thrust): Fafnir P204RR6 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Fafnir-P204RR6-Single-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00FAY909S Needle Bearing (on the inside of pulley holding the radial load): Torrington J-2420 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Koyo-Bearingd-8600rpm-Maximum-Rotational/dp/B007EDPF4C Grease Seal: CR 14810 (Chicago Rawhide) Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/SKF-14810-Small-Style-Diameter/dp/B00CLIVXNM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1459389503&sr=8-3&keywords=CR+14810 Locally here in RI/MA i always use Eastern Bearings in Prov, RI to get all my bearings and seals they have reat pricing and can get you anything you need but you can also find them online at many places. Just be careful the letters on the ends usually mean different seal types so make sure you look into the whole part number. Hope this helps! Good Luck! if you have any questions ill try to help.

My dad had mentioned that he had found another Wheel Horse in the back of an old house he uses for storage. It ended up being one and a half. One was intact minus a mower. The other was taken apart. He says he has all the parts for it somewhere (again minus the engines). The intact one was my grandmother's and he said that she had the motor rebuilt several times and could never get it to run right. It has been gone for years. Everything seems to be in good condition aside from being 50 years old (estimate). There were a couple of other surprises too! A spring tooth harrow (yes it was hanging on the wall) and a mower deck that he claims is wheel horse but I am not sure. I could use some help identifying it. I am not sure how I am going to attach the mower. I am not sure my running WheelHorse has a motor shaft long enough to put another pulley on it. I brought the spring tooth home but couldn't fit the mower in the car. My boys refused to ride in the trunk! That mower deck is heavy and made out of some pretty thick steel. Everything is smooth on it though. I have an underside picture too I can post if anyone is interested.

Thanks for the tip, that's usually how we do it if its good soil, to be quite honest i just moved the tractor into this position for the picture at the time This was a new mini garden i opened up last year, it used to be a horse corral and the dirt was very hard and really rocky so i turned it over 4 times to a kill the grass and also i picked up the stones every time to try and get it free of rocks. Worked great actually after many passes and then tilling it actually gave great soil. Had the set the plow real deep, i don't know if you can see but i actually have a concrete block strapped to the moldboard to help it cut in Here the finished garden last year:

This was started by my son and it was not finished when he left for the Bahamas. I decided to pick up where he left off... Here are a few pics, some from when Steve was working on it and then the finishing touches that I have done. Another C-125 brought to life!!!

Made an agreement on this 867 in Sept. The owner had it on the west side of the state and insisted on delivering it to me when he got time. It's been a long wait but it finally arrived today. I sure hope it gets along with the rest of my small herd.

It could be worse. You wife's family could move in with you!

When we retired and made the move to the mountains I informed my wife that my next move will be feet first in a pine box!

This is another of Acto's tractors and attention to detail is unbelievable on it so this 857 is in for a nice treat! Nice score Dan! I have a headlight lens for ya when the time comes.

Thanks guys! I went ahead and got a supporter package im glad to keep this great thing going!

March 31, 1949 RCA Victor introduced the 45rpm single record, which had been in development since 1940. The 7-inch disc was designed to compete with the Long Playing record introduced by Columbia a year earlier. Both formats offered better fidelity and longer playing time than the 78rpm record that was currently in use. Advertisements for new record players boasted that with 45rpm records, the listener could hear up to ten records with speedy, silent, hardly noticeable changes.

These tutorial type threads should get pinned.

Hi, Just bought this to cut the outfield at a village cricket club in Buckinghamshire,UK. I'll use the cutting deck for the first few cuts in the spring and then use it to tow some gang-mowers when the ground is dry enough. I would appreciate it if anyone could help me identify the exact model of this mower, the identification plate appears to be missing. It might be 1976 '61-16K804' but it would be great if anyone could either confirm or correct this. The main reason for wanting to know this is that I would like to get a full set of spare belts and need the model number so I can order the correct parts. Many thanks, Jamie

Hi Everyone, I'm new to the forum and let me start by saying thanks for all the great information available here. I have been able to get so much great information and tips from this site its amazing. I have been on here for a couples years getting info but this is my first real post. Brian A. Rehoboth, MA Mechanical Engineer Age 24 Currently own two WH tractors. a 1976 C-120 and a B-100. The C-120 is my work horse and the B-100 i tore apart a few years ago and am in the process of doing a complete restore on it. Attachments i have: WH Dirst plow WH Snow Plow Brinly Dirt Plow WH Snowblower single stage Original WH enclosed cab 48 SD Deck 36 RD Deck Tow behind electric sprayer Wheel Harrow WH 36 Tiller I had to rebuild my pto clutch and ended up relining it myself so i figured id post some pictures and part numbers for anyone else doing the same in the future. (See new post)

No kidding! Speaking of lasting 30 years, I noticed that one of the spindles wouldn't take any grease, no matter what I tried. I took it all apart and found that the grease holes that allow the grease into the bearings weren't there, as in they WERE NEVER DRILLED. It must have left the factory that way by mistake. I drilled the holes and now she takes grease just fine, but my point is that the original bearings are still good! They were a little noisy, but have no play and a little grease has them spinning smooth as can be and quiet as a mouse. One tough set of roller bearings!

Not if it comes with more space.

He just got a knee replacement this last week so I have him here for about another six weeks. I did spend fifteen days in the Bahamas doing some fishing for tuna and other fish had a great time. He has his own boat so it only cost a little money for fuel. It was great.

6.75" OD 4.5" ID .125" Thickness .55 Coefficient of Friction

for becoming a supporter and for the great instructional contribution. Great detail and .

You'd be surprised at all of the uses you can come up with for stuff when you don't have other options - don't ask my wife where some of her sheets and cleaning stuff have gone!!!!

Nice instructional post.

Nice tractor,, and pfft never let a little rust discorage you ,, thats why they make toro "new red" colored paint ,, at your local dealer or on lone and also "Regal Red" rustoleum is a pretty close match also.. Run it as is this summer winter time throw a plow on her , and take deck apart and give her a face lift , she will be like new in the spring!! And welcome to the forums,,

Definitely.

I added pictures of the Lawn Ranger completed with the 212cc predator engine. I had to extend the hood 2.5" to accommodate the engine. Instead of using the old fuel tank, which I didn't have, I moved the fill hole and reach under the hood to remove the fuel cap and fill with a funnel. I am not great on body work but I think the paint turned out good. I am still ironing out a few problems but it runs great and drives like a new one. Thanks for all of the help and advice, couldn't have done this with out you guys. Ted

That's a very nice looking 314-A! I'm not sure what the original price was. You could buy a 1989 312-8 for $2,499 so I would say the 314-A would be somewhere close to that price range.

Since I picked up 2 new to me horses another 520H and 523Dxi ,I decided to redo my front weight hanger that I modified for the rear all told I made a new one from scratch...1/2" thick cold roll steel used for sides and center,6" long x 3" wide sides, 8"wide x 4" tall for 3 40# "green" weights 4 3/4" from front edge to center of 5/8" diameter hole for attach a matic rod, total width 8 1/2" hopefully you'll get the dimensions by following the pics, and this should work with any classic since 1971 with the front attach a matic... oh I used the small button head bolts to secure for fab up before welding it together and the 3/8" x 1/2" welded to the bottom is to keep it level in the front hitch...hopefully have gave you enough information to build one of your own but if not I'll and get a blue print drawn up and post as well,Jeff.

I have a chance to pick up a 520 -h. But it does burn some oil he says. It comes with a snowblower single stage and a 42 inch mower deck. He wants $400 for it. What do you think it would take to rebuild that since it's burning oil is it worth the money.

I'm from Lafayette! Thanks for all the responses! I know everyone likes pictures, so i will add one of the before shots

The only thing worse than moving is building the house you're moving into....Busy is an understatement and will be for the next 9 months

you might make sure the brake is adjusted properly. If the brake is dragging it will cause the mower to really jump when taking off. Because the mower can't take off slowly if the brake is dragging you will get all the power at once instead of gradually rolling to a start.

Sorry to hear it. Hope the insurance company helps out

Bit more research, now I'm thinking: 81-16K801, C-161 8-Speed Tractor, 1978

Tractor looks very nice! I see you use a tree for your "paint booth" too!

Those Blackhoods really are sharp with fresh shiney black paint.

Fantastic work! "too bad" your son had to go to the Bahamas... I'm sure it would be a drag to go visit him and show him pictures of your work...

Great pics, nice garden! When we were kids, we used to ride on the disc when my dad was discing with the .

Check out Aldon's GT 14 Resto-Mod thread: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/57948-gt-14-restomod/?do=findComment&comment=536295 Message # 8 It tells the brand and size.

yep I cleaned the points and put a new plug on it and we got spark!!

Thank you!!!

I love the 520's, I have 4 right now and by 5pm this evening I will have 5 of them. I have one with a loader. They have all the power you will ever need. The rear ends are bullet proof. The steering is effortless. Enjoy you 520 new friend. and welcome to the Red Square !

The 48" decks have a large plate on the top to re-enforce it and the guards bolt to that. Everything looks good in your pics that way. Noisy bearings in the deck can be replaced, not a large deal (as long as the pulleys come off). Oil leak at the engine could be simply sloppy oil filter changes or a loose drain pipe. Might also need a gasket where the oil filter block bolts to the engine itself. None of these things is a big deal, but can work in your favor in negotiating a price.

Humm...that gorgeous beast of a machine... or a new box store piece of junk...no brainer to me. You done real good.

I really like the tri-ribs on the front of the GT-14.

Thanks! I only wish the deck weren't such an eyesore. When the mowing season is over I'll be stripping it down, patching, and painting it (plus any other necessary repairs).

I like turfs for mowing and ags for everything else except moving snow i like turfs and chains over ags and chains

I think stress cracks happen to us all. If you don't have your own welder, find somebody that knows their stuff. I would stop drill the cracks. Which means drill an 1/8'' hole at the end of each crack. That will stop the crack. Thus the term, 'Stop drill.' A good welder will grind a grove in the crack and then weld over the crack. Your keen eye has prevented some future damage. Allow me to be the first to say. TO

Yep, I would...especially if other than pile more junk on it, if I hadn't touched the thing in fifteen years? Similar situation allowed me to get my first ...a running '68 Commando from my buddy for $50. (in my gallery) because it was just collecting dust. He knew I had the bug and would treat it right. That's how we define friendship...we do nice things like that for each other all the time. I'm a firm believer, pass on good fortune to the next guy, it comes back to you in spades. .