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I picked up this old wagon frame from work. Front end was really low to the ground so I cut and offset the front spindles. I had already put an offset in the tongue so now I need to take some out of it. Rear end needs spacer plates welded in to level it. I have started building the side and tailgate latches and hinges. I will drill and paint them once the wood rack is built and I know how everything comes together.

Looks like we might miss this nor'easter coming up the coast Sunday night. To look in the back yard you'd think there wasn't any foul weather coming at all. Things looked peaceful at the pond. Wait I see a little activity. Probably not the same pair I saw when we first moved here in 76'. But there has been a pair of mallards in the pond every year since then. And probably many years before we moved in.

Well here she is..lift in place Tru Power AG's all the way around,,, finally done ,, and i think my tractor is sexy lol

My brother and I took a 2 1/2 hour drive south west of Richmond to look at a 416-8. It was advertised as a 89 but the model number and the single cylinder Kohler makes it an 88. Needs a seat or 4 rolls of black tape. Sheet metal needs TLC and paint in many areas. Runs strong and trans has not problems . Hour meter indicates 2400 plus hours ( not sure if it works). Engine and mechanical parts do not indicate that many hours. Came with a mule drive and 42 inch RD deck ( or should I say 3 good spindles , blades and attachment mechanism ). Had to dicker some but owner can down on price . Loaded up truck and came home . Almost forgot I did not know that used JD green and yellow on 520s. Like a train wreck. ( This maybe view on C L Richmond Virginia . On the way home we saw the world ugliest Lincoln Camino. Some one with way too much time on hands and mechanical skills (?) converted a Lincoln Continental with suicide doors into a land yacht convertible top pickup .Sorry no picture . Tractor is parked , pictures tomorrow.

Here is the 702 I have been working on this winter. I plan on using it for pulling a single bottom plow hence the duals in one side. It was covered in black paint, I managed to salvage most of the original paint. The hood was missing so I put on this one I bought at a swap meet last spring. Couldn't bring myself to clean off the algae/moss growing on it so I coated over it with linseed oil. This is a patina you cannot recreate and I thought I'd share it and see what you guys think.

You all know Scott, @whfan74 as a moderator here, administrator of the Facebook Page Wheel Horse Junkies and the host of the second largest Wheel Horse show in the world, and most importantly a family man and incredible teacher. Scott has poured his heart and soul into Wheel Horses, and spread his knowledge here, on Facebook and by creating a club in the school where he teaches to teach young students about mechanical machines through Wheel Horse. Earlier this week, Scott asked to step down from being a moderator here at RedSquare. I can imagine that with all his activities going on, the added responsibility of being a moderator here doesn't help with enjoying what he wants to enjoy most. I am grateful for Scott's contributions here, his dedication to the forum and for his annual show. While he's not leaving the forum, he will not be wearing the Moderator Badge (unless he changes his mind, he's always welcome back as a Moderator here). Scott, thank you for your help, guidance and friendship. I enjoyed every conversation with you and hope to meet up with you again in person soon.

Bout this much.

I had to work till noon today but I still managed to make a little progress. @RedRanger the tire paint is some really good stuff. Steering wheel painted A few parts blasted and primed

Nice property! If that was my backyard...my dog would be in that pond everyday!! Mike..........

How's this?

Those yellow floor boards are a nice touch!

OK Guys, It is still heavily mocked up, but starts from the seat and drives. Donor parts were from: 857, Lawn Ranger, C-120, Toro RER. One of those green ones, and my local steel supply store. Almost forgot there are Crapsman pieces too. For your viewing pleasure. Powered by a 4HP electric start Kohler. Plan to have it done for the L&G Tractor Extravaganza in Evansville, Indiana in June. Mods, please rotate this image, thanks David

I don't know how rare these are, and its not really a separate model, but in '74, some of the C-160 8-speeds had a Tecumseh OH160 ohv engine instead of the K341. Pretty much the same tractor otherwise, except the front of the hood was raised up to clear the taller engine.

Elvis Presley puts a down payment on Graceland In the spring of 1957, Elvis Presley was completing his second Hollywood movie, Loving You, and his first movie soundtrack album. He had two studio albums and 48 singles already under his belt and two years of nearly nonstop live appearances behind him. If his life had taken a different path, the spring of 1957 might have seen Elvis Presley filling out law school applications or interviewing for his first job as college graduation approached. But the hardworking son of Gladys and Vernon Presley was already his family’s primary breadwinner in the spring of 1957, and already looking, at the tender age of 22, to purchase them a new home for the second time. He found that home on the outskirts of Memphis—a southern Colonial mansion on a 13.8-acre wooded estate. With a $1,000 cash deposit against a sale price of $102,500, Elvis Presley agreed to purchase the home called Graceland on March 19, 1957

Wow things have gotten busy here at home but I have managed to find some more time to finish writing this thread. Next install the rings on the piston starting with the wavy oil ring then the two thin oil rings one above and below the wavy ring. These rings are easier to put on the piston, you have to take your time and walk them into the groove. Once you have them installed offset the ring gaps of the oil rings. I place the wavy ring gap above the piston wrist pin hole, and one of the thin rings to the left and the other to the right about 1/2" from the wavy ring gap. It is hard to see in this picture but I will show it in a later picrure. Now walk on the 2nd ring and the top ring. Use the diagram that comes with your piston for directional install of the rings. Most all of the rings have some sort of notch in them like the one below. Place the connecting rod in a vise wrapped in a towel, mark the orientation of the rod and cap with a marker. After you have marked the cap remove it, and slide the wrist pin through the piston and the connecting rod and install the two clips that retain the wrist pin into the piston. I measure valve lash next, small block kohlers use solid tappets so the valve lash must be set by grinding off material from the valve stems. I first check to see what lash I do have and then take the valve to the grinding wheel. When I have the gap close to spec I hand sand them in my tile with 600 grit sand paper. Then re check your lash with the camshaft lobe on the base circle of the cam this means that the tappet is in its lowest position. For those who don't feel comfortable doing this you can pay the machine shop to set this lash for you (they do have better grinders). So here is a picture showing the orientation of the ring end gaps for reference the piston wrist pin holes are in the 12 and 6 o'clock potions in the picture. This spacing of the rings makes it that much harder for the oil to "blow by". Heavily coat the cylinder wall connecting rod and crankshaft journal with clean SAE 30 oil. I usually use my fingers to apply it, then pour clean oil on the piston and the rings apply some oil to your ring compressor and squeeze the rings down on your piston You need to have the compressor tight enough to get the rings into the cylinder but loose enough for it to slide out of the compressor into the bore. Once again this style works just fine I have built enough engines that I have invested in a nicer ring compressor set. Line up your piston in the bore, note the orientation of the mark you made with the rod and the cap this will need to line up in a little bit. The other crucial thing is the location of the hole in the rod cap. THE HOLE MUST FACE THE CAMSHAFT SIDE OF THE BLOCK! if you do not do this your rod will fail. This is because of the rotation of the crankshaft and oil lubricating the crank journal. I turn the crankshaft so the rod journal is at its lowest point so the connecting rod doesn't smack into it in the next step. Using the handle of a deadblow or a wooden handled hammer make one firm and swift downward tap to put the piston into the block. If you don't get it in the first time make sure everything is lubricated and in the right positionand try again. You want to get it in one tap otherwise you run the chance of breaking a ring. Note the hole in the rod cap and it's relationship to the camshaft side of the block. Tighten the rod cap down to the spec in the kohler manual. There are two specs stated for some of the rods the first is a cap style which I used and looks like regular bolts holding the cap on, the other is posi-locked studs which the connecting rod has two studs sticking out of it and you The internals are pretty much done at this point. Install the valves you need your springs, valve keepers and retainer rings. Feed the spring and retainer into the block spring first the push it up toward the valve guide and over the tappet. Slide your valve into the seat, and using your valve spring compressor, compress the valve spring and retainer together When you have enough room, place the keepers on the stem. TIP: a small telescoping magnet, patience and a little axle grease goes a long way. When you have both valves installed properly turn the crank over by hand, so each valve has opened once or twice, you now know that the engine turns, and if the keepers arent on all the way they usually have fallen off by now and you will know. Install one of your breather gaskets (I apply gasket sealant on these gaskets) and then the breather plate and reed. NOTE the oil drain back hole is at the bottom. Place the rubber spacer, then the other gasket and the final cover with the nut, snug it down if you over tighten the nut you will bend the outer breather cover and oil will seep out. Lube up the points rod and place it in the block hole. Add your points (most all kits come with new points) Set the gap at .20" when the points rod is in the block the farthest it will go in during a hand rotation of the crankshaft. Bolt on your points cover, don't forget your gasket, and grommet, this can wait till the engine is on the tractor and wired, but mine will sit in the shelf for a couple weeks. Put on your head gasket, and head, torque to spec using a torque wrench, and install your spark plug. I personally do not use the spark plug that comes with the kit, I throw it out and buy a quality Champion spark plug, in the case of a small block kohler a J8C. Bolt on your engine tins and your almost done I still need to clean and rebuild the carb, after I do this tomorrow I will attach the govenor arm and set the governor.

That's one nice lookin' rear, I see there... on that ol' girl.

Well as they say, you pick yourself up dust yourself off and keep moving forward!! All of you guys are GREAT!!! I'm at home now, thinking boy howdy I'm worse than I thought, which I am. I'm going to keep striving forward!!! I hope to see you all in June, God Bless you all Thank you John

If you convert a Wheel horse to gear reduction steering and find your mid rockshaft now hits the steering gear, this is why. The gear reduction rockshaft is around 1/4" shorter. Here is a standard non gear reduction rockshaft. And here is a gear reduction rockshaft. Note how all 3 holes are nearly evenly spaced verses the non gear reduction unit which has the outer hole spaced out further.

Its Oklahoma. No codes out in my area, none, most electricians around here aren't even licensed, no union, no rules, no brains, but most can get you some dope or some fighting chickens, one two pole 20.

He might have better luck saleing if he didn't post pics of it.Lol

This 520 Jim?.....yuck!! I think that is your new steed in the background... Mike...........

I'm sorry pal, you and I don't speak the same language. It sounds like you want to use a 15amp breaker and a 20 amp breaker to feed your compressor. On a 220 volt circuit, you need a 2 pole 15 amp breaker to feed your compressor. Please do not mix breaker sizes. If you don't understand everything about you are doing, please get some local licensed help. I'm only looking out for your safety.

I see you have a hitch on the front of your horse...good thing i would need it. 4 wheel trailers are a PIA to back up a skill i have not mastered. Can't back up the hay wagon with the Case VAC so WH with front hitch to the rescue.

You really need to take into consideration the condition of the tractor as well. I have seen some rotted out 300 hour tractors. Who knows where it was stored and cared for. Without seeing it I would say between $600 and $1400. Thats a big difference but condition is everything.

Very sharp looking machine you have there!

Interesting idea... ...was this your inspiration?

I bought this old air compressor from an auction site in Kansas. In the picture supplied I assumed the compressor was a small compressor, when I went to pick it up, without the trailer I was pleased and surprised. We (four guys and a crane) got it into the back of my van, barely, its sits 51 inches tall on skids. The previous owner was the City of Augusta, Kansas and they bought it new in the mid 60s. It was wired by two hot leads and the flex conduit served as ground. I didn't want to hook it up that way due to a previous bad experience with being electrocuted by a compressor on rubber tires plugged into 240 with a hot lead that broke off and electrified the entire machine. I ran romex inside the conduit and attached the ground inside the pressure box to a screw that attached to the compressor plate and used a standard 3 prong welder plug. Sure is much quieter than my old harbor freight chip and bang compressor and puts out a lot of air. Best 150.00 I ever spent.

I used #12 wire, the panel is less than 4 feet from the box, but I used 8 feet of wire and flex conduit in order to be able to move the compressor in case I wanted to change its placement or work on it.

Jack I am sure I will have a lot of questions for you. First one where can I get lenses all the lights on dash? The 416 will be the spring and summer project besides helping my son landscape this backyard ( also know as the hill from hell).

You are covered by NFPA 70 like everybody else in the nation. It's the minimum. Local codes must meet them but can exceed them. BUT, as here in Florida, it doesn't mean they play by the rules. My electrical career was in Indiana. Big difference. I assure you, there are qualified contractors in Oklahoma. You just need to find one. I'd suggest contacting the local IBEW hall. They will help you out.

American Automotive Super Concentrate Stealth Black Tire Paint 60-101 https://www.alltiresupply.com/product/1-gal-concentrate-black-tire-paint-water-base I purchased a gallon for less than a pint of Miller Tire paint. Hank-How much of the paint did you actually use? You should have had plenty. I did my pair of ags, sent you enough for your four and then some, and I can hardly tell the gallon has been opened. I'm not sure why they call it paint, it's more of a dye than a paint.

Jim, I'm glad that deal worked out.How long did it take for him to get back to you from the initial contact?I know you were pretty bummed about his not replying.I get to drag a WH home tommorrow in spite of the Nor easter.At least we didn't have to risk arrest in PA.Luck,JAinVA JimAnderson Gloucester,Va

I explain some things about the seller. 1. I don't think he has a computer and pictures were posted by a friend. 2. He stores and works the tractors in his basement and lighting is not good or I would have taken some pictures. 3. He has some good items but do not know what is for sale and what are his keepers. 4. That is the 416-8 I purchased in the back ground of the photo of the JD 520. The seller did not paint it he purchased it already painted

Sure and be gosh, it's an Irish pony. And a two banger at that. Am I right???

I just don't know the correct terminology, we're on the same page. I REALLY appreciate you taking the time to keep me straight!

Can't wait to see pics of the 416-8 with kohler 16. The green 520 is pretty sad looking it almost looks like some one actually tried to do a good job on the paint work but the color is all wrong.

I actually have two extra 15 amp breakers and have a place in the barn panel i'd like to use one of the 20 amp breakers. I could save money ()and maybe my hide) by flying you out here. I'm just afraid of the disappointing looks and glares. I paid a firm to remove three oil/gas pump jacks off the property that had 240 underground electric several hundrd yard to each well, they epoxied the ends of the wire and left them connected to a panel on the pole. I hit three wires that were under my garden with the tiller on the back of my tractor and found they still had power to them, call me surprised and sparky. I still have wire underground and some issues with it tying into other service panels in the barn and well house. It seems the guy that built the house tied everything into everything. I'm sure it was right in 1965 -1966, but every time I call an electrician out here they look at it and leave. I told the wife that she may have to sweet talk them next time and I wouldn't be against a little side action, if we could get it straightened out, wow, I didn't get dinner for a week, sheesh.

Your tractor is really nice looking! I like the AG's, but as far as being "sexy", I'm not sure about that!

If you are writing this thread, you were not electrocuted! Good buy on the compressor!!

Thanks Pullstart, unfortunately as it turns out I'm riddled with arthritis so not much chance of it going away.. So grin and bare it, carry on as normal only a little slower As for lunch... It wasn't worth the money! Don't you just hate it when a place drops it's food standards... Anyway... I was asked if there was room to put the lights in the normal place behind the hood.. So I thought I'd have a look.. It was close but not quite enough space... However if I trim a bit off the top of the light backing then it should just slide in With the chassis cleaned up and coated in the red stuff, I started to look at the vast amount of smaller parts that need cleaning up... Which got me thinking that I have a blasting cabinet and compressor both of which had not been used since I moved workshops well over a year ago! As the compressor is a tad on the large side the fear was the current drawn when starting it up would cause problems with the workshop wiring which could best be described as "needs work"! Anyway, nothing went bang or produced any smoke so a clutch pedal went into the blasting cabinet.... Not bad, maybe the blasting medium is a little coarse but we shall see what it looks like with a couple of coats of red oxide. Only a couple of problems with the blast cabinet... It needs to be raised by 6 inches or so so I'm not bent over using it.. And I need to sort out a dust extraction system as despite a good vent pipe it can get a bit hard to see what's going on.. I've just dug out a spare computer cooling fan which hopefully should suck out enough dust so I can see what I'm doing.. Dust extraction eh... Well, I built this thing This kinda worked, doubling up the fan helped a bit more but is far from ideal.... And then yesterday I lifted the cabinet lid a little with the extraction fans on, and all the dust cleared in couple of seconds!! Me thinks another filtered hole in the side of the cabinet is needed!! Well, you know what they say about blokes and instructions........ Thursday my mission was to get my blast cabinet working which meant sorting out the dust extraction once and for all.. After drilling a big hole and a couple of bolt holes in the side of the cabinet, I bolted this filter on that had been kicking about for years... It did come with the blast cabinet which I found a bit strange as the only "hole with bolt holes" was way bigger with 3 not 2 bolt holes.... So it got wrapped up in a random bit of paper and stuffed in a draw until today.. On the inside I folded up this cover to stop the inside of the filter from getting blasted away.. It was whilst bolting the inside cover on that I noticed this strange box like thing at the back of the cabinet under the light! Can you guess what's behind it? As it happens the space behind the cabinet is so tight the filter wouldn't of been able to let any air in anyway, so it kinda all worked out for the best! Oh... And the random bit of paper the filter was wrapped in all those years ago... Were the instructions! A few of the bits that have been blasted and coated in the red stuff.. As WN's dash panel had started to rust under the clear coat, it got blasted and hit with clear again.. It's a bit hard to make out but it almost looks like metallic silver only with more metallic showing.. Get it in the right light and it almost sparkles..

If you look that one up on CL, it looks a bit sad.

Best of luck on a speedy recovery, it's hard to keep a good man down.

Without knowing your model number and year will guess that that part was also used on the early models that had only the left pedal for both the clutch and the brake. The first of the pedal travel from rest released the tension on the drive belt and as the pedal approached the last of it's travel a rod in the 2nd hole applied the brake band. I think 1973 was the last year for the single pedal. Garry

As Stevasaurus says you should be able to get one from @racinfool40 (Mike Biser). Mike took one of my old 1054 transmissions and upgraded it to an 8 pinion differential in the transmission (taken from later models Wheel Horse tractors) to strengthen the differential in the 1054. The 953/1054 axles are longer than other Wheel Horse transmissions and the first that were 1 1/8 round. Here are some pics of an old Wheel Horse 1054 axle. The second pic is a closeup of the splined end of the axle that mounts in the differential. The third picture is of the worn area on the axle that happens as the needle bearing in the case sidewall wears. The read painted area is outside the transmission case. A very big Woodruff key goes on the hub side of the axle too!

Weights and chains=100-150 Plow (no extension on an 89)=150-200 89 520, no swept axle, no gear reduction steering, 300hrs, all lights work, good tires, no rust=700 I wouldn't pay over $1000 if everything is in good shape, and it really looks like a 300 hour machine. Price goes down as I discover things that need to be fixed. 300 hours isn't much for that Onan. If you are happy with the engine, the hydro pump, and the tires, It would be hard to pass up. Personally, I prefer '91 and newer models, but if you don't use a 60" deck or a loader, I think the '89 is fine. If you add a foot control, and get rid of the wonky drive lever between the legs, it might be really nice

I was told when I joined, this is where you can horse around and get away with it.

Don't be "hoping" for a final coat of primer. It's done when it's done and finding out it wasn't done when you spray the first coat of color is not very satisfying!

I think if you check between the 2 transmissions, you will also find that the axles are longer in the #5080 then the #5025. This would put your wheels out farther from under the fenders. As to why is it locking up...watch bob's videos and see if it is the forks. If it is not the forks, we have some things to try before you open it that will hint at the problem. Is this trans still on the horse?? Can you post some pictures??

Yeah, this should definitely be pinned