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Bought this the other day and been workin on it here's the progress. Put a k181 on it because the original engine is impossible to find so this will do.homemade clutch linkage jus have to weld a little to connect it to the pedal. Next is wiring and dash panel on its way. Front wheel bearings and different rubber on the back. When I got it nothing moved steering etc but a little grease and pb blaster and all is good.the last missing piece to get it driving is a belt guard anyone have one?

Well I am home and for those of you who were too far away to come I think you did alright! First of all it was COLDDDDDD!!! For me anyway. Since I got sick, I cannot handle cold weather for long. I had base layers, lined jeans, Carhart Bibs and Carhart coat and insulated boots and it got to me. Plus I feel a Cold coming on on top of it. We had to park about a 1/2 mile from the auction, didn't want to risk parking in a slop hole field!. Then the tractors were about a 1/4 mi in back of the house and you had to walk thru mud, ice briars and ruts to get to them. Then there were tons of people there and more guys were looking at the Horses than the Farmalls. If you managed to buy anything, there was no way you could get it out by your self so if You couldn't carry it you would probably have missed the big show in June just waiting for help. None of the tractors ran. The 857 and 1257 were the best of the lot. I'm surprised no one stole the correct lighter out of the 857. (At least it was there when we left!) Brian is correct the back half of the seeder was gone. I think I found a sprocket on a pallet that went to it but there were some JD seeders there as well. The sickle bar was missing some brackets but I found the handle and some brackets with it on a pallet on the opposite end of the field. so if you got the sickle you'd need the pallet as well. The auction advertised 2 auctioneers but it was only 1 at a time.Even the hot dogs were terrible! We stayed a couple of hours and I'm sure it was at least another hour and a half before they got to the field. And if they did the Farm stuff first It would have been another hour at least. We had a nice lunch in Seneca Falls. Thank-you Randy. would have loved to stay and at least get prices but I doubt any "Deals" were had unless everyone left!. On with the pics! Gag Pic! Salted up empty trailer!

I bet you'd be surprised... the life that ol' swayback has left in it.

Those mud scrapin running boards are a plus.

Going to try to do this with pictures. Going to put together a transmission for a RJ 58...it will be the same for a Suburban transmission. As you know, I have the guts from about 4 RJ & suburban transmissions to chose from. I start with the right side plate (input shaft side) in a vise so when you place the differential, you will have room for the axle to stick through. Good time to place your gasket. Wheel Horse did not use gasket sealer, and neither do I...you need to be able to slide the gasket around. I used a little Lucas Oil in the bearings and on the shafts as I put this together. The 1st thing to place is the input gear/shaft. Next, place your mushroom gear and then the assembled differential. Should look like this. This shot is to show how little room there is under the large gear of the mushroom gear...for welding broken nubbies back on. This picture also shows why you have to take the casting and snake it down and around the differential and then to lift the mushroom gear a little to get the casting to sit on the gasket. Once you get the casting in position, adjust the gasket alignment and put in about 3 of the bolts to hold the casting in place. The bolts do not have to be tight, but you can snug them. You need to do this, so the forks line up over the input gear. The forks are set in the casting and if the casting is moving around, you can not line up the fork gears and the spline shaft. Now, place the 2nd/3rd fork gear in the bottom fork, with the groove up. Now take the rev/1st fork gear (the larger of the 2 fork gears) and place that in the top fork with the groove down...facing the other fork gear. Take your spline shaft and place that down through the 2 fork gears and seat it into the bearing in the input gear/shaft. Now the fun part...small hands help here. See that bearing with nothing in it just above?? This goes in there...the cluster gear shaft with a keyed reduction pinion and the cluster gear on the shaft (large gear down). This can take a few tries, and you want to make sure that key does not fall out of the shaft and pinion. Make sure, before you even try to fit this that you put the transmission into 2nd gear. That means move the shift rail on the right up one notch. This makes room for the cluster gear to slide in and the cluster gear shaft to seat in the bearing. This can be the hardest part. Only thing left is the large, cluster shaft reduction gear. This is also keyed, and when seated should be the same height as the splined pinion that it mates with. There is enough slop to get this gear to pass the casting rim and go down. Put here back into neutral, and check out that everything spins free and as it should. You can put it into different gears and turn the input shaft counter-clockwise to make sure things work. Remember, you still have the slop in the shafts from not having the other side plate on yet. Seat the side plate, and bolt together. I use about 12 ft/lbs torque. Try turning the input shaft in all gears again...sometimes bolting the sides together can pinch things that were not just right. Don't be surprised if you have to open it back up and try to figure out what is binding when bolted together. It does not take much to bind it. I put the seals in last, I never know if I have to take it apart again. When all is fine, put the seals in and the oil.

...I can't wait, to be doing this again.

Wanted to introduce my WHs Found the '73 8 4 in a guys basement in Sioux City...doesn't run and in lot's of pieces. He says he couldn't get a spark. Gonna work on her and get her started. The other two came home last night from a journey to Minneapolis area. Front is a D200 that runs well. Bought it from a young man who has been working with it...nice kid, I applaud ambitious youth. He built the weight rack on the back that you just fill with concrete blocks. When full it holds 300ish pounds. Another nice surprise was a remote controlled wench he installed on the front. The rear is a C160 that came with all the original manuals, a tiller, a 42"ish deck and a snowblower. It's a little owly, but runs and works. They all need some work, but my son and I got up this morning and went out on the property to break stuff with em...had a blast. I got the bug and these things are just way too cool!

Especially me. I bought this c120 last week. I wanted it for the motor but don't think I can even use that. It has a k341 aqs on it which is set up differently than the regular k341 I have on my c160s. It runs but is missing the air cleaner. I believe this particular motor was used by John Deere and maybe Jacobson. It is a quiet line. The rear end is shot so I may take it apart since I have nothing to lose in that regard. It has some serviceable body parts but it has been pretty ragged out. Have an extra hood that is in good shape, good rims, tachamatic, but it is as ugly as a mud fence. Not sure what to do with this eyesore. I have no interest in making it operational. I guess i will try to part it out or sell it for scrap. Any suggestions? You will see that the previous, previous owner built a heavy duty rack on the back to hold a spray tank and had welded a bracket on it to hold a pump that he ran off the PTO. He welded a custom cup holder on the right rear fender and a small tool box on the left rear fender. I'm sure no one else here has suffered from buyers remorse, right?

Lol yup a sort of bait and switch. Better half feels I have enough tractors! Imagine that! But when I picked up the Sickle bar, I was offered a deal I could not refuse on GT14....and wheel weights........and snow thrower and......a stock manual PTO set up and.....hinged hood and.........it has the hydro pulley for tiller. So so I will have to take some heat from spouse when I pull in today

Some Sundstrand hydros with hydro lift use SAE5 ORB (O Ring Boss) fittings on the pump, control valve and cylinder They are no longer popular and it can be hard to find the specific one you need. Many times the leak can be fixed by replacing the o ring itself. SAE 5 orings are available but can be expensive and sold as eaches. Couple alternatives for you. Turns out these rings have a SAE standard AS568 number (commonly called a "Dash Number") Dash Number is 905 They should be a Shore (hardness) rating of 90 ID .414 OD .558 Width . 072 Gates has them in bags of 10 which your auto parts store can probably order for you G60248-0005 Part# 72540005 Saw the Gates on Amazon for $8.00 McMaster will sell you a bag of 100 Buna for $4.00 or Viton (which I prefer) bag of 25 for $3.32

sorry you left early mike Jo and I stayed until they were almost done first off no wheel horse tractor sold for more than $150 the 857 went for a $100 and the 1257 sold for $135 I found the rest of the sickle bar parts and put them with the bar and that sold for $200 ( great deal) thankfully I had found a good picture of the wheel horse seeder so I knew what the parts looked like it was missing I bought one piece of the back hopper off a trailer of stuff down by the sign in trailer and I found another part on one of the pallets of loose parts so I ended up all but the row marker and drive chain I also bought the two piece seat that was on one of the pallets in the pictures also got a nos kohler gas tank and a new kohler regulator checker and some troy built tiller stuff Brian

Excellent write up Steve!

As comprehensive as it gets Steve. Very nicely done brother.

2-27-1960 U.S. Olympic hockey team beats Soviet Union On this day in 1960, the underdog U.S. Olympic hockey team defeats the Soviet Union in the semifinals at the Winter Games in Squaw Valley, California. The next day, the U.S. beats Czechoslovakia to win its first-ever Olympic gold medal in hockey. The 1960 U.S. team was led by Jack Riley, the head hockey coach at West Point and himself a member of the 1948 U.S. Olympic hockey squad. His players were college students and amateurs and included two pairs of brothers, Bill and Bob Cleary and Bill and Roger Christian. Interestingly, Bill Christian’s son David was a member of the “Miracle on Ice” Olympic squad in 1980 that defeated the heavily favored Soviet Union in the semifinals and two days later beat Sweden to capture the gold medal. The last player cut from the 1960 U.S. squad was Herb Brooks, who went on to coach the “Miracle on Ice” team two decades later. The Americans had taken home silver medals in hockey at the Winter Games in 1952 and 1956, but going into the 1960 Olympics they were considered a long shot. The team managed to win its first four games against Czechoslovakia, Australia, Sweden and Germany, however, and then scored an upset victory over Canada and went on to meet the Soviets in the semi-final round on February 27. A packed crowd was on hand at Blythe Arena in Squaw Valley to witness the U.S. defeat the Soviets, 3-2, in a tightly fought game. It was the first time an American hockey squad had ever defeated the long-dominant Soviets in Olympic competition. The next day, the U.S. met the Czechs in the finals. After two periods, the U.S. was behind, 4-3; however, they scored six goals in the third period and went on to win the game, 9-4. It was America’s first-ever Olympic gold medal in hockey. Canada won the silver medal while the Soviets received the bronze.

I have purchased alot of horses and have gotten buyers remorse a few times but in the long run they seem to always work out for me. I either sell and get my money back or trade or end up needing parts. I recommend parking it off to the side and give your self sum time to figure it out.

I haven't been on here much lately but came across this topic today. My sons and I put taps in late Thursday afternoon and collected sap tonight and got about 50 gallons of sap, here is a picture of my two younger sons helping collect sap.

THANKS Everyone.,...Some really great info here! I think I'm leaning toward the Charger 10 with a Kohler motor....this picture looks like the closest I've seen... I remember the exhaust was a short pipe exiting on the left front.....Did all the manual PTO's look the same? And does anyone know where I can find a 72 Charger 10 hydrostatic...don't care what condition it's in???

http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/photopanel.cgi?listingid=2662159&feed=129&gid=0&category=0&zip=&kwd=

Well spoken words Richard,,,,,,,,,,,,ditto !!!!!!

I have that seeder with EVERYTHING, seed plates,row marker totally complete N.O.S. I bought it some years ago from Don Kane at the big show. Every year people try to buy it from me but I know I probably won't find another one, even got the original paper work! I can take pics and measurements of the row marker if buckrancher needs it. Now I just gotta find that elusive farm 540 PTO attachment!!

Back in the days before V.O.C. laws, Castle brand brake cleaner would shoot about 20 feet out of the can straw. Great for those long range kill shots!

Excellent Mike and correct. I've used non-chlorinated for many years starting out on firearms then found it did such a good job I use it as a final cleaner for most anything. I didn't know about the bees though. I can certainly use that idea.

Nice work! I realized after I watched your video that I had actually watched other trans videos a few months ago that you have done.

My two 420 LSE's

Explaination coming in the Auction Thread!

Heading back from Little Falls NY....

Brake cleaners come in different formulas. There is chlorinated (flammable) and non-chlorinated (Non flammable) The non-cl evaporates much faster. It is also used as an electric motor cleaner. I use non CL all the time (since I almost burned up my B-I-L's Mark VII in my front yard!) It is also an excellent Bee killer! My dad was allergic to bees and I bought him a case of it every Christmas.

In all fairness, I don't feel that I got ripped off. I just made a questionable decision in buying it. Ekennell you obviously see something that I don't. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. But your sentiment makes me smile. By the way, I didn't pay very much money for it. It's more like the dog that chases a car and catches it. Now that I have it, what am I going to do with it?

@Kungfil and thanks or the photos. Oh, and your trailer needs painted!

Well been putting in a lot of hours at work so not much getting done. Ordered up some parts, new cables HL headlight switch, ignition switch, decals from Terry. Decided to build the 10hp kohler I got from Penn, so I blasted the block and got it primed up today. Tore apart a starter generator and blasted parts, it has one broken on the brush holder, I am going to order a new one, just wondering if anyone else has replace this? How did you rivet it back on? The clock is ticking and I don't want to be working on this the day before I load for Penn. I know I have time but before I know it it will be time.

check the ground wire

May as well be! The have 3 refrigerators in there as well!

I gotta treat for you guys today. Ended up working on a big hobny with my brother in law and a smaller hobby of my dad's. My dad builds custom pedal tractors from scratch besides the hood. I enjoy helping him out since he's beginning to get shaky and can't hold onto some things anymore. I also helped brother in law with one of his pulling trucks. I enjoy working on these. I think it's a very fun learning experiene. The 5 engine tractor is also part of tue families. Of course I grabbed some pics!! And yes...that is real money in the paint job! Lol

Another option comes to mind; some time ago Ed Kennell did a post about pulling a stuck hitch pin. He drilled a few holes in the gap between the pin and the transmission case and put PB Blaster in the drilled holes, that allowed deeper penetration. give it a try and if it works you owe @ekennell a royalty for his patented technique.

Well it's not as glamorous as the tired GT14 with two flat tires and no battery to look at. Lol It was not on tractor so it's hard to picture condition etc. As requested - pics below. I am 3rd owner. 1st owner bought and never installed. 2nd owner who I got it from installed it on a 417 and cut with it maybe 3 or times to trim his grandparents 3 acre lots back edge. He estimates maybe an acre all told in cutting usage on the unit. Soon after he installed it, a cousin needed the 417 so it got pulled and never made it back on a tractor. the round head bolts in first picture face the ground and are indicative of very little use.

You never showed us the mower; after all that is what you went to pick up!

Good thing you took a trailer.

I liked you comment Tractorhogg about the cost of tractors in 1975,I paid a little over $2600.00 for a C121 in 79 with a 42RD and a snow/dirt blade and am still using that bad boy today!!

Looks good Steve I have a NOS "S goose neck" I've had for awhile with plans on putting it on my early 55 just never got it done, you just inspired me to do it ..thanks!

Have seen too many AG's busted badly, soft rubber. One tractor using Goodyear AG's for mid-mount grader blade duty. Excellent. The Horses use Carlisle Turf tires for mowin' and pushing snow. I get great results using chains on the turf tires. Never any complaints. My feeling "chains 'n AG's don't mix well."

Take a look at this attachment and you will see what models came with what engine each year. wheelhorseallyears (1).pdf This is true for some years, but not '72 and '73.

Wow a Wheel Horse Seeder with the attachment tag still on it ! A Rare item.

Regal Red is what I redid my with. I gave the hood a light compounding and the color just pops in the sun.

Here's hoping...someone takes a camera.

No updates today. I will continue to work on it Monday and hopefully have a video of it running and possibly driving. Only thing is I wont have my tool box since I have to move it to my internship.I am also trying to get the mower moved over to my brother in laws shop so I can tear into the rear end. I will update y'all more on that later. If you have any suggestions on overhauling the rear end...that would be great.

Here's a look. You can't see the modification to the support arm, but I can probably get you a better pic if you need one.

squonk you're right. Brian used the good back half of my original muffler as a starting point. I'm telling you, when you see it in person and hold it it's amazing! You'd never think it was repaired and he had started with the rusty carcus I sent him. I'm thrilled and my son was more excited than if it was Christmas! He carried it around looking at it forever

Hey guys! Got home tonight to find a pleasant surprise - Buckrancher fixed Emory's muffler for me. It looks awesome. He even put the baffle back inside! Brian you are awesome!!! Thanks so much for your help! I've attached a few pics showing Brian's work. Light makes it look a little bronze, but it's silver and looks brand new!

RacinBob and I were talking yesterday, and Bob had an idea to be able to use an axle and axle gear from a 2 piece transmission and incorporate it into the 3 piece transmission. We all know that the axle gear and spiders are the weak spot in these 3 piece transmissions, and replacements are getting hard to find. We have already shown in this thread that you can use the spider gears out of a 2 piece tranny differential and use them in a 3 piece tranny differential. We think you can use the axles and axle gear from a 2 piece tranny and put them into the 3 piece tranny differential. Here are a couple pictures of the 2 types of axles. The one on top is from the 3 piece tranny, and the one on the bottom is from a 2 piece tranny (#5025). They are both the same length and diameter...10 5/8" long and 1" dia. Both have the 1/4" hole for the roll pin on the axle gear end and both are keyed for the hub on the other. The only difference...one is keyed and the other has a spline. The 2 types of axle gears are the same gear and the teeth are also the same width. The one on the left is keyed and the one on the right is made to sit on the spline. If you cut off the flange and use it as a spacer in the differential housing, you could switch the axles and axle gears. The flange has the same OD as the bronze bearing...so everything would stay in it's place. The bronze bearing is 1 1/2" long and 1 1/2" OD...the flange is 5/8" wide and the same 1 1/2" OD. Pretty cool...and Bob may have found a bushing that works, so you don't even have to cut off the flange. If the bushing is less then 5/8" you just have to cut the bronze bearing a little longer to compensate. What do you guys think??