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Seen in Naples Florida:

Does it start and briefly run using starter fluid? If so, the problem is with fuel delivery. I would suspect that either the fuel pump is not working, or the strainer in the bottom of the tank is clogged. Try removing the fuel line from the intake of the pump. Because the tank sits lower than the pump, you may have to pressurize the tank. If fuel flows, move on to the pump. Remove the line from the pump to the carburetor at the carburetor. Have someone crank the engine while holding the hose in a can. You should have a good spurt with every rotation of the engine. If not, you may possibly be able to rebuild the pump, but a new one is quicker and in the long run, cheaper. Last thing. When you cleaned the carb, did you remove the float and float valve and clean it thoroughly? A stuck (closed) float valve will cause the same problem.

I had already moved to Florida prior to the 1978 blizzard that hit central NY, but this is the road to the family farm about four days after it hit!

The name is Tom Ruprecht or n1defan. He and I started building these hitches 4+ years ago and there's still demand for them. Would have to say we have sold well over 200 of them and orders keep coming in. Tom took it over by. Himself a few years ago as I took a different job and spar time is hard to find. Biggest attachment I use on this hitch is 5ft York rake from a category one 3 point hitch. I use a wench to lift it and need to add 200lbs to the front of the tractor for good steering. Works great you canfind a link to reach Tom in the vendor section.

Buddy i cleared my property and back filled my foundation and landscaped my yard with my 310-8 20 years ago there isnt anything that machine cant do,, great engine and great machine good luck with it..

Even though the 520H is my favorite WH. If I had to be practical and could have only 1 Wheel Horse. I would take a B100 auto or 8 speed. Or a C100 8 speed. It's enough h.p. for my suburban driveway in the winter. I ran a blower on my 74 B100 auto for 3 years. I also like it to for mowing, because it's not as heavy and easy to steer. I put a 36" RD deck on it. I like where the Hydro stick is located on the B100 auto too. It also maneuvers with ease.I have over 1 acre to mow at the farm. I really like the 520H for that job.

done!

I found the gallon of used oil I had sitting by the trash can to take to one of my dealerships to go in the oil heater. My snowblower is nicely oiled inside now, I bet. I was wondering why the snow coming out was suddenly brownish black, then the jug came flying out, LOL

I alluded to this tractor in my other project tractor thread but figured it should have it's own to for future reference. What I started with was a D200 that I was told had a locked up rear end and no engine. Turns out the parking brake had been set and there was enough play in the motion control lever to allow it back into the forward/reverse space. Undid the parking brake and there is no more grinding noises from the rear end. I'm calling this a win. Ag rear tires 3 point rear PTO Spring assisted seat Seat with arm rests and slider to accommodate different size drivers without unbolting anything. Looked like this when I picked it up: The steering was worn out to say the least. The front axle was also missing many bushings so that is why the front tires look like they have so much camber. I decided that I didn't want to rebuild or reuse the ross steering column or wheel horse front end. From my experience with my D160 is it takes a parking lot to turn it around in. I wanted something tighter and a bit more nimble on the steering front. Enter John Deere and Cub Cadet parts. Picked up a cub cadet super steer front axle. These have a 3/4" front mounting hole where the wheel horse one is 1". Leaves a few options: 1. Bore out cub axle to 1" for wheel horse front axle pin. 2. Make the wheel horse axle pin 3/4" on the lathe 3. Combination of the two which is what I did. I turned the wheel horse pin down enough to ensure it was round and I opened the cub cadet axle up to match what I made the wheel horse pin. I believe it was 15/16". If one wanted you could easily just bore/drill the cub axle out to 1" and stuff the wheel horse front pin in place. The cub axle is also a bit narrower so a spacer was required to prevent the axle from sliding front to back. I used washers as a temporary solution until I determine exactly where I want the front axle to sit. Wheel horse wheels on a cub cadet front axle is a no go. Different length spindles. Opted for some new high speed 1" spindles/bearings and trailer wheels with lawn tires mounted on them. This cub cadet front axle is also designed for power steering. I figured as long as I was doing this, might as well go for broke so to say. Picked up a 5 port John Deere power steering column and steering cylinder. Mounted the steering column as many others have. Decided to put the power steering cylinder on the left side (by the clutch pedal). I'll get pictures of this and the mount once I finalize engine placement. I removed it all to avoid unintentionally damaging it moving the engine and such around. Which brings us to an engine and where this project currently sits. I searched for a kohler single cylinder or a twin of some sort. Couldn't find anything I was willing to pay for. Things that needed rebuilds were more then a new Harbor Freight 22hp twin or the same price with low hours. People have been having good luck with these HF twins in the John Deere world so figured I'd give it a try. Test fitting a few things here to see where they need to be lined up at Adapter from SmallEngineWarehouse for a Honda GX630/660/690 to Kohler flywheel adapter. For the electric PTO I used a clutch from kohler twin with dual pulleys. I had to use a sleeve adapter to get from the 1" shaft on the predator to the 1 1/8" on pulley. For the pump (mine had no splines and already had a key and key way cut into it) coupler, what I had originally planned was to use a stub shaft from a kohler engine mated to a jaw coupling. However, that won't work now that I slid the engine back farther to the rear to line up both of the PTO pulleys. So, I'm going to have another piece added onto the SEW adapter that is a piece of 1" round stock with a key way cut into it. Probably won't get to that this evening but hopefully soon. That's as far as we have things.

I had asked my son to keep a lookout for a junk round hood for me a while back. He sent this picture to me yesterday and asked if this hood will work. I told him not to get the hood but see if his friend wants to sell all of it.

My 1964 /604. Still trying to find the correct seat,and steering wheel. I'll find one someday I'm sure. And my 1964 lawn ranger that haden't ran in yrs but she's running like new now!

Didnt know how else to post these pics of my tractor so im trying it here.. Except the seat which im getting a new one in spring these seem to always rip.. A cloth one this time, but anyway this is my baby !! The cloth in front of the engine is a heating pad to keep the engine warm,, it is 3 degrees right now so have to keep her warm and snuggly !!

Honestly buddy depends on the condition of the machine one in excellent condition can be worth $1,500 bucks i have seen many sell for that and more.. Like i said depends on condition and hours on the machine etc... So without seeing it, it is hard to give a proper value to it without all the info.. Lmao ,, hell the blade alone is worth 200 to 300 bucks and the deck another 300 if in decent shape , motor another 300 ,, thats 900 just parting it out ,, then ua have the trans ,,, 200 just pays for the tires haha..

during the blizzards of 78, 83 i lived at home and we just went down the road and got milk straight from the bulk tank on the farm. with all of the Rutter's, farm stores and all of the other convenience and super markets i didn't think we would ever see a milk shortage during a big storm, but in 96 blizzard roads were closed for 3 days to a week in some places so the milk trucks couldn't get to the farms to pick up and the stores ran out of milk for several days eric j

I put the maroon Wheel Horse decals on all my machines as I redo them. I also like the look better.

THESE ARE CLASSICS!!!!!

I brought "Good Vibrations" to a new level; I had one of the old spring reverberation units in my car and a 12" speaker attached to the back seat springs. As long as you didn't hit a big bump it sounded great! With the top down you could crank it up all the way and watch the back seat upholstery bounce to the beat.

Wheelhorse is still my #1love though.So I'm thinking of getting selling everything else and going strictly wheelhorse.

to Steve. All good advice you have received. My first check on a non runner is to be sure I have a good strong spark at the plug. If you do, it should run as you hand spray fuel into the carb. Then you know it is not getting fuel thru the carb. As stated above, pull the fuel line into the carb and while holding it in a container, crank the engine. You should have a strong spurting of fuel as the pump does its job. If you don't have fuel, work your way back thru the pump, the filter, the lines, the petcock on the tank, the tank screen, and the tank cap vent until you find the blockage. If you do have a good spark and good fuel supply to the carb, then the carb needs cleaned, rebuilt, or replaced.

Has a Cinton engine and if it's a B1290, it would be a correct factory engine. Solid seat pan could be original to the tractor and were used closer to 1960 when they were also put on the 400/550 tractors

Sure is nice when yer out getting parts for your horse and you don't know what you gotta have but RS and your tractor Bro's are ther for ya!

I'm a little disappointed. They said on the radio that we've received a total of 5" this season here in the KC area. I was looking forward to trying out my B-100 I bought last summer. She's all dressed up with no where to go! I was kinda hoping for a good 6" to push. Although I do enjoy the warm temps we're having. Forecast is 72 tomorrow!

Ya you've got the right idea. Get all of it if you can. Frame/ hood/ engine etc appears to be rj58 - rj59 Wheels/ Tires not so much Others with more knowledge are sure to respond Cheers

I remember that song very well. 2/ I7/1966 I was one month out of basic training and you couldn't walk into the PX without wearing that song. Thanks for sharing.

He had some visitors this weekend, cousins from TN. Sadly they have more snow than we do, but we fired up the tractor and the old hood again for another round of fun!

The C-101 should have a K-241AS engine. Same engine as the K-241S but with a smaller oil pan to fit the cradle mounting system. Because it only holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil versus 2 quarts in the K-241S, be sure to check the oil level a little more frequently, especially if there is any oil smoke noticed. As to it's ability to cut, push, and throw, the 10 horse power Kohler is a true worker, and I don't think you will be unhappy with the performance. One caveat though, using a snow thrower on a 10HP engine while going up even a modest grade, may bog down under that type of load.

Hey Phatboy, Looks like we're birds of a feather. I've owned my 310-8 for 30yrs. Yours looks like new. She's a beauty. This is my 86' 310-8. I'm on my second running time clock and third seat.

Pass , Pass, Pass!!! lol That was road hard and put away wet. With hits like that to the auger you can almost guarentee that thing is off balance and shakes, rattles and rolls. I would offer $150 for that. Was not taken care of either so you would have costs of bearings and chains i am sure on top of it. Where in PA are you. There are a few for sale near me. I can email them to you.

Didn't Johny Cash sing that song

Cut the head off a 3/8" nc bolt then hacksaw a slot across the end (to use with a screw driver) screw them in diagonally opposite holes as aligning pins. After you get the new tanny on with two bolts back out the two aligning pins with a screw driver

I took a 1977 B-80 frame, C-160 front axle and steering, C-120 8-speed transmission, B-80 fender pan, and a B-100 hood and put it all together to form a 1977 tractor. The only thing that was missing was an engine. If I put a K-181 on it, it would have been a B-80. If a put a K-241 on it, it would have been a B-100. If I had put a K-301 on it, it would have been a C-120. K-341, a C-160. I ended up with a K-241 and so it was a B-100. I added the appropriate decals and there it was. So, in answer to your question, basically no difference other than horse power and lights.

Here are a few more pictures. I made a few modifications to the engine mount square tube to make it easier to access the hardware on the inside. Power steering stuffs Brake pedal isn't attached with a roll pin. It's just sitting on there with a cotter pin to make sure nothing is going to hit each other. I have another piece made up to go from the top front of the steering column to the cross piece for the rear of the hydro pump. I'm thinking that I'll end up replacing the hard lines with some soft ones to make it easier to get the column in/out if I ever need to. I don't know if I have any more ability/skills then others do. I am very fortunate that I own (cnc plasma table, bridgeport vertical mill, lathe, some welders and a warm place to work) and have access to some useful tools thanks to some of my friends professions. I didn't go to school for any of this stuff, just something I started doing because I thought it was fun.

With the new front tread

This is what was in the carb in my brother in law's Deere after sitting for a year or two. It was packed around the float. There was more, this is just what I caught, the rest fell on the floor. I had the exact same symptoms.

Looking for a disc for my collection. I am not much help as I am new to WH . I just want you to know we have a great bunch of WH people that really know their stuff. WELCOME to our happy family..

i love Lego land there is a Lego car their that looks like the real thing.

I got the old tranny out and the other one in. I'll finish buttoning it up tomorrow. I didn't have to remove the shifters, I just rolled the tranny as I was lowering it and pulling it back. I put it back in the same way, I used the rear top bolts to help pull the tranny into place and lined up the front bolt holes and hand started each bolt and slowly tightened the down with a ratchet. I appreciate all the help from everyone. Thanks again.

I have the rear on my jack and the frame supported with jack stands. I'll lower this one out and install the other th same way. I have the rear on my jack and the frame supported with jack stands. I'll lower this one out and install the other th same way.

@MWRSame thing happened to the "rock shaft" on my GT-14 last winter. For some reason it hits the fan gear or some other art of the steering (I believe) and caused excess pressure in places that are not intended. I had mine welded at the tool & die shop at my work place. Really haven't used it this year, so I don't know how long it will last. I was going to show you photos of mine, but Photobucket is pissing me off right now.

It was quickly buried, and surprisingly, it wasn't that big a mess. The snow soaked it right up I also found my cold weather gear in the basement, and thought I was in heaven. Until I tried to put it on, LOL. I was a lot skinnier back then. It fit loose back then, so I thought I might be able to fit in it, but no go. I was still able to wear the boots though. My feet were nice and toasty.

here is my 753 I gave a refresh with all the goodies:)

I just paid $550 for one in like new condition. (In my avatar). Looks to have been used maybe once or twice and kept inside. I wasnt really looking for a bargain though i wanted a nice one and it took me a few months to find. All the hardware was included as well as a new belt and users manual. No regrets im happy with it!

Here is an update on the K502 tires. I feel that they are a nice compromise to a turf with chains and ag with chains in the snow. A bit more aggressive in spacing between the blocks for snow but able to bite on ice as well.

Yea 608 i love this engine,, she has 1000 hours on her and doesnt make puff of smoke nor does she burn a drop of oil, i change her oil spring and again in fall and change air and gas filter then also since she was new .. Funny my brother has a new huskervarna and always trying to get me to have a tug of war with him lmao,, cause he thinks his 23hp engine is the cats butt,, lol i just laugh at him and tell him " naa i dont wanna break your new toy on ya " lol the kohler 10 just has so much torqe ,, id pull his new toy in half hehe !!

My gut feeling is that this image is too small to print nice, but I thought I would send it and see what you thought. I need to take some better ones with a real camera!! bob

The GT-14 was made between 1970-1973, Kohler did not introduce the 16hp k341 until very late in 1973 for the 1974 model years, so the first Wheel Horse to carry a k341 was a 1973 or 1974 14 Automatic, then the C-160. The GT-14 weighs in at around 840 lbs while the C series tips the scales at around 650 ponds. The difference between the two engines is not enough to effect the capabilities of the GT-14 in the least, if it would they would not have made a C-140, or any other brand of 14 hp garden tractor. A properly running 14 hp k321 is just as capable as a k341, and while the k341 does offer a little more hp to "muscle" through tough plowing and mowing jobs, it is still affected by same laws of physics when stressed as the k321. The Power King tractor used the k321 for many years as did many, many other brands without a any reduced capabilities. Remember this, many of these stout machines started with 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 hp engines and proved very capable. BTW, my Kohler k341 D160 weighs 900lbs and is more than capable.

Thats better.

As I offered in the Yahoo Group...but I don't know if you read it or not: This is your pic and I edited it with some notes. Release or remove the jam nut(s) #4 in this pic. Wrench the #1 bolt until it stops. By 1/2 turn increments, wrench the bolt(s) #3 also tight, and UNIFORMLY to preclude cracking either hub. After you progressively and UNIFORMLY tighten the perimeter (four or five) bolts #3, whack the center hub-puller bolt with a dead-blow hammer...with some violence apparent. Repeat the process until the hub is broken loose. When it breaks loose, use the #1 bolt to slowly pull it off of the axle shaft.