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Seen in Naples Florida:

Does it start and briefly run using starter fluid? If so, the problem is with fuel delivery. I would suspect that either the fuel pump is not working, or the strainer in the bottom of the tank is clogged. Try removing the fuel line from the intake of the pump. Because the tank sits lower than the pump, you may have to pressurize the tank. If fuel flows, move on to the pump. Remove the line from the pump to the carburetor at the carburetor. Have someone crank the engine while holding the hose in a can. You should have a good spurt with every rotation of the engine. If not, you may possibly be able to rebuild the pump, but a new one is quicker and in the long run, cheaper. Last thing. When you cleaned the carb, did you remove the float and float valve and clean it thoroughly? A stuck (closed) float valve will cause the same problem.

I had already moved to Florida prior to the 1978 blizzard that hit central NY, but this is the road to the family farm about four days after it hit!

The name is Tom Ruprecht or n1defan. He and I started building these hitches 4+ years ago and there's still demand for them. Would have to say we have sold well over 200 of them and orders keep coming in. Tom took it over by. Himself a few years ago as I took a different job and spar time is hard to find. Biggest attachment I use on this hitch is 5ft York rake from a category one 3 point hitch. I use a wench to lift it and need to add 200lbs to the front of the tractor for good steering. Works great you canfind a link to reach Tom in the vendor section.

Buddy i cleared my property and back filled my foundation and landscaped my yard with my 310-8 20 years ago there isnt anything that machine cant do,, great engine and great machine good luck with it..

Even though the 520H is my favorite WH. If I had to be practical and could have only 1 Wheel Horse. I would take a B100 auto or 8 speed. Or a C100 8 speed. It's enough h.p. for my suburban driveway in the winter. I ran a blower on my 74 B100 auto for 3 years. I also like it to for mowing, because it's not as heavy and easy to steer. I put a 36" RD deck on it. I like where the Hydro stick is located on the B100 auto too. It also maneuvers with ease.I have over 1 acre to mow at the farm. I really like the 520H for that job.

done!

I found the gallon of used oil I had sitting by the trash can to take to one of my dealerships to go in the oil heater. My snowblower is nicely oiled inside now, I bet. I was wondering why the snow coming out was suddenly brownish black, then the jug came flying out, LOL

I alluded to this tractor in my other project tractor thread but figured it should have it's own to for future reference. What I started with was a D200 that I was told had a locked up rear end and no engine. Turns out the parking brake had been set and there was enough play in the motion control lever to allow it back into the forward/reverse space. Undid the parking brake and there is no more grinding noises from the rear end. I'm calling this a win. Ag rear tires 3 point rear PTO Spring assisted seat Seat with arm rests and slider to accommodate different size drivers without unbolting anything. Looked like this when I picked it up: The steering was worn out to say the least. The front axle was also missing many bushings so that is why the front tires look like they have so much camber. I decided that I didn't want to rebuild or reuse the ross steering column or wheel horse front end. From my experience with my D160 is it takes a parking lot to turn it around in. I wanted something tighter and a bit more nimble on the steering front. Enter John Deere and Cub Cadet parts. Picked up a cub cadet super steer front axle. These have a 3/4" front mounting hole where the wheel horse one is 1". Leaves a few options: 1. Bore out cub axle to 1" for wheel horse front axle pin. 2. Make the wheel horse axle pin 3/4" on the lathe 3. Combination of the two which is what I did. I turned the wheel horse pin down enough to ensure it was round and I opened the cub cadet axle up to match what I made the wheel horse pin. I believe it was 15/16". If one wanted you could easily just bore/drill the cub axle out to 1" and stuff the wheel horse front pin in place. The cub axle is also a bit narrower so a spacer was required to prevent the axle from sliding front to back. I used washers as a temporary solution until I determine exactly where I want the front axle to sit. Wheel horse wheels on a cub cadet front axle is a no go. Different length spindles. Opted for some new high speed 1" spindles/bearings and trailer wheels with lawn tires mounted on them. This cub cadet front axle is also designed for power steering. I figured as long as I was doing this, might as well go for broke so to say. Picked up a 5 port John Deere power steering column and steering cylinder. Mounted the steering column as many others have. Decided to put the power steering cylinder on the left side (by the clutch pedal). I'll get pictures of this and the mount once I finalize engine placement. I removed it all to avoid unintentionally damaging it moving the engine and such around. Which brings us to an engine and where this project currently sits. I searched for a kohler single cylinder or a twin of some sort. Couldn't find anything I was willing to pay for. Things that needed rebuilds were more then a new Harbor Freight 22hp twin or the same price with low hours. People have been having good luck with these HF twins in the John Deere world so figured I'd give it a try. Test fitting a few things here to see where they need to be lined up at Adapter from SmallEngineWarehouse for a Honda GX630/660/690 to Kohler flywheel adapter. For the electric PTO I used a clutch from kohler twin with dual pulleys. I had to use a sleeve adapter to get from the 1" shaft on the predator to the 1 1/8" on pulley. For the pump (mine had no splines and already had a key and key way cut into it) coupler, what I had originally planned was to use a stub shaft from a kohler engine mated to a jaw coupling. However, that won't work now that I slid the engine back farther to the rear to line up both of the PTO pulleys. So, I'm going to have another piece added onto the SEW adapter that is a piece of 1" round stock with a key way cut into it. Probably won't get to that this evening but hopefully soon. That's as far as we have things.

I had asked my son to keep a lookout for a junk round hood for me a while back. He sent this picture to me yesterday and asked if this hood will work. I told him not to get the hood but see if his friend wants to sell all of it.

My 1964 /604. Still trying to find the correct seat,and steering wheel. I'll find one someday I'm sure. And my 1964 lawn ranger that haden't ran in yrs but she's running like new now!

Didnt know how else to post these pics of my tractor so im trying it here.. Except the seat which im getting a new one in spring these seem to always rip.. A cloth one this time, but anyway this is my baby !! The cloth in front of the engine is a heating pad to keep the engine warm,, it is 3 degrees right now so have to keep her warm and snuggly !!

Honestly buddy depends on the condition of the machine one in excellent condition can be worth $1,500 bucks i have seen many sell for that and more.. Like i said depends on condition and hours on the machine etc... So without seeing it, it is hard to give a proper value to it without all the info.. Lmao ,, hell the blade alone is worth 200 to 300 bucks and the deck another 300 if in decent shape , motor another 300 ,, thats 900 just parting it out ,, then ua have the trans ,,, 200 just pays for the tires haha..

during the blizzards of 78, 83 i lived at home and we just went down the road and got milk straight from the bulk tank on the farm. with all of the Rutter's, farm stores and all of the other convenience and super markets i didn't think we would ever see a milk shortage during a big storm, but in 96 blizzard roads were closed for 3 days to a week in some places so the milk trucks couldn't get to the farms to pick up and the stores ran out of milk for several days eric j

I put the maroon Wheel Horse decals on all my machines as I redo them. I also like the look better.

THESE ARE CLASSICS!!!!!

I brought "Good Vibrations" to a new level; I had one of the old spring reverberation units in my car and a 12" speaker attached to the back seat springs. As long as you didn't hit a big bump it sounded great! With the top down you could crank it up all the way and watch the back seat upholstery bounce to the beat.

Wheelhorse is still my #1love though.So I'm thinking of getting selling everything else and going strictly wheelhorse.

to Steve. All good advice you have received. My first check on a non runner is to be sure I have a good strong spark at the plug. If you do, it should run as you hand spray fuel into the carb. Then you know it is not getting fuel thru the carb. As stated above, pull the fuel line into the carb and while holding it in a container, crank the engine. You should have a strong spurting of fuel as the pump does its job. If you don't have fuel, work your way back thru the pump, the filter, the lines, the petcock on the tank, the tank screen, and the tank cap vent until you find the blockage. If you do have a good spark and good fuel supply to the carb, then the carb needs cleaned, rebuilt, or replaced.

Has a Cinton engine and if it's a B1290, it would be a correct factory engine. Solid seat pan could be original to the tractor and were used closer to 1960 when they were also put on the 400/550 tractors

Sure is nice when yer out getting parts for your horse and you don't know what you gotta have but RS and your tractor Bro's are ther for ya!

I'm a little disappointed. They said on the radio that we've received a total of 5" this season here in the KC area. I was looking forward to trying out my B-100 I bought last summer. She's all dressed up with no where to go! I was kinda hoping for a good 6" to push. Although I do enjoy the warm temps we're having. Forecast is 72 tomorrow!

Ya you've got the right idea. Get all of it if you can. Frame/ hood/ engine etc appears to be rj58 - rj59 Wheels/ Tires not so much Others with more knowledge are sure to respond Cheers

I remember that song very well. 2/ I7/1966 I was one month out of basic training and you couldn't walk into the PX without wearing that song. Thanks for sharing.

He had some visitors this weekend, cousins from TN. Sadly they have more snow than we do, but we fired up the tractor and the old hood again for another round of fun!

The C-101 should have a K-241AS engine. Same engine as the K-241S but with a smaller oil pan to fit the cradle mounting system. Because it only holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil versus 2 quarts in the K-241S, be sure to check the oil level a little more frequently, especially if there is any oil smoke noticed. As to it's ability to cut, push, and throw, the 10 horse power Kohler is a true worker, and I don't think you will be unhappy with the performance. One caveat though, using a snow thrower on a 10HP engine while going up even a modest grade, may bog down under that type of load.

Hey Phatboy, Looks like we're birds of a feather. I've owned my 310-8 for 30yrs. Yours looks like new. She's a beauty. This is my 86' 310-8. I'm on my second running time clock and third seat.

Pass , Pass, Pass!!! lol That was road hard and put away wet. With hits like that to the auger you can almost guarentee that thing is off balance and shakes, rattles and rolls. I would offer $150 for that. Was not taken care of either so you would have costs of bearings and chains i am sure on top of it. Where in PA are you. There are a few for sale near me. I can email them to you.

Didn't Johny Cash sing that song

Cut the head off a 3/8" nc bolt then hacksaw a slot across the end (to use with a screw driver) screw them in diagonally opposite holes as aligning pins. After you get the new tanny on with two bolts back out the two aligning pins with a screw driver

I took a 1977 B-80 frame, C-160 front axle and steering, C-120 8-speed transmission, B-80 fender pan, and a B-100 hood and put it all together to form a 1977 tractor. The only thing that was missing was an engine. If I put a K-181 on it, it would have been a B-80. If a put a K-241 on it, it would have been a B-100. If I had put a K-301 on it, it would have been a C-120. K-341, a C-160. I ended up with a K-241 and so it was a B-100. I added the appropriate decals and there it was. So, in answer to your question, basically no difference other than horse power and lights.

Here are a few more pictures. I made a few modifications to the engine mount square tube to make it easier to access the hardware on the inside. Power steering stuffs Brake pedal isn't attached with a roll pin. It's just sitting on there with a cotter pin to make sure nothing is going to hit each other. I have another piece made up to go from the top front of the steering column to the cross piece for the rear of the hydro pump. I'm thinking that I'll end up replacing the hard lines with some soft ones to make it easier to get the column in/out if I ever need to. I don't know if I have any more ability/skills then others do. I am very fortunate that I own (cnc plasma table, bridgeport vertical mill, lathe, some welders and a warm place to work) and have access to some useful tools thanks to some of my friends professions. I didn't go to school for any of this stuff, just something I started doing because I thought it was fun.

With the new front tread

so I got some time this weekend(not a lot due to honey do list)and I finally got to fab up a few recivers for my c160,s once you have a 2 inch receiver the skys the limit to what you can put back there,anything that can be welded or bolted to a 2 inch piece of square tube,i know we have a member that makes these and I can tell you his price is very fair,as theres a lot of work to fab these up,i made mine with the rear attachmatic for plows and tillers,ill paint it in the spring

I have a wheelhorse ride away Jr. I don't know much about it. I believe it's a rj 35. It has black rimes and the tractor is purple. I have only seen a few purple ones. I would appreciate any info any one would have. Thank you!!

Just read through your post nice project I might be able to get a few tips from your project for mine. Keep up the good work!!!

I have that song on one of their "albums" , for those who can remember what that was..

That unit is listed as Aurora, Ohio. I was pretty desperate yesterday after spending a couple hours getting my 520 with plow, stuck and unstuck only to get it back to the shed before bringing out the big guns - New Holland TC45 with front end loader. My drive is clear now and I can probably limp through the rest of winter so I'll probably watch carefully for a tall chute. I'm only going to get one chance to buy a blower. I'm already on thin ice claiming the Wheel Horse was necessary for plowing- that works fine when we get less than about 8". Monday night dropped about 14" and I just couldn't make any headway!

wh #7478 is 84" x 5/8"

You need to get a 60 incher for one of your 520's 608... take ya about half hour so more time for

We pulled the 502 out of storage this weekend, after quite a few pulls to prime the fuel pump and carb we ended up with a good weekend of fun. My little brother in law and my girls had a blast in the yard and in the corn field behind the house!

What if you made the hood longer, moved the headlights forward, and re-fabricate the grill at an angle from the headlights down to the frame. Would the factory muffler fit under the hood? It doesn't appear to be higher than the engine. Looking back at the pictures it looks easy enough to lengthen the frame 6 inches, and the hood angle looks easy enough to copy. If the muffler would fit then, it might be easier than finding a muffler to fit.

I plan on being there sat. also. Hope to see some of you there...

This gets brought up quite a bit. It depends on the year. Prior to 1978 they were much the same. In 76 and 77 the difference was the rear tires, 22.750 vs 23.850, low back seat vs high back, 13" steering wheel vs 15", headlights standard on the C's, optional on the B's, the horsepower of course, and a couple of insignificant things. The B-60 is recoil start. I bought a 1976 B-80 brand new and after a couple of years I 'converted' it to a C-160. The frame and transmission are identical. In 74 and 75 they made 4 speed B's but they were still the strong garden tractor. Starting in 1978 the B's became lawn tractors and weren't nearly as strong.

Uh Craig, has OSHA blessed this mod ?

Pretty much what Dennis said is what I was going to say. But if you are looking for something simple to service, powerful enough to cut grass, push snow, and other chores, and is a good looking rig, you can't beat the 1976 or 1977 B-100 or C-120 8-speeds. And it is all metal!

To address the question posed by Horse46 concerning why there was no later GT-16 model. That was due to design of the tractor, not the engine. Many tractors that were designed in the late 1960's had become either obsolete or expensive to build, by the mid 1970's refinements were being made to all brands of outdoor power equipment just like they were in modern automobiles. There was a thing called planned obsolescence which many of you know is the the reduced quality of a product to promote new purchases, but many do not know that there was also a policy of "Planned Obsolescence" that started in the early 1960's and that policy was that if you owned a product that was of an older style you were somehow less affluent or less in step with the times. So if your tie was too wide or too narrow, or your fins on your car were too big or too little, you were perceived as out of date and somehow not as well off or successful as the next guy. This policy allowed manufacturers to just change styles to raise sales outcomes.

My plans have been made for the big show and I'm also a member of WHCC. Those banners are truly something special. I'd be honored to have one also.