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I've noticed when ever some one starts talking about the BIG SHOW,,,,my left foot starts rapping the floor like an old dog with an itch... Is it just me??? Something in the water??? something in Bieglersville??,,,, in the Pie?? or parhaps that space on the inside of the first turn where i park my reds....and a few lawn chairs ?? Any wayyyy ,,,, im ready to pack !!!!!!

Last years show I was offered $80 for my very old showerhead muffler and when I said "Are you crazy" -the guy offered my $100. I did not sell but even yours is worth some big money! I have one of each of my RJ's!

Ready to Pack? You're way behind me Howard! All I have left to do is buy the pie!

I am in total agreement Dave. I got pretty busy this week but I am going to add the WH CC MEMBER LOGO TO ALL THE DESIGNS SOON.

Terry, I am also a WHCC member. Quite honestly, every RedSquare support member who is attending the Big Show should be a WHCC member. If not, they should be. This is a tremendous event that the WHCC hosts.

So I've posted a few times already and been given great advice...figured I would start my own rebuild thread... engine is is strong so hoping to mess with it as little as possible. Goal is to wire wheel everything, paint, put together and get this tractor back to work. Late the last night got my wheel off, only took an hour....today pulled my tool box, which is welded to the gas tank stand as a whole piece. Frankly at this point I'm feeling intimidated lol. I'll be needing fresh wires, fuel line, and choke and throttle cables if anyone wants to recommend me on that stuff.

I will be glad for the Big Show to get here. Clothes are packed in plastic bag ( From Lowes) and all I need to pack is the suitcase full of old man pills. What kind of pie?

This would worry me that the sharp front edge of the drawbar might crack the tranny housing from the impact if the weight would bounce. I don't have my weights mounted this way, but if I did, I would add a plate between the drawbar and the case to spread out the load. The plate could be tapped for a couple small bolts and fender washers that could clamp it to the bar to keep it in place.

Well, It's pretty easy. If the gears are shifting OK, there might be a simple disconnect in the drive train. The first check is with the tractor running and the transmission in gear, check both axles to see if one is turning inside the hub. If one is turning, the key is sheared and must be replaced. If neither axle is turning, then remove the belt guard and check to see if the transmission input shaft turns when you turn the pulley. If it doesn't turn the shaft, the key is sheared or lost. If the input shaft is turning and neither axle is turning with the transmission in gear, you have a broken gear or shifter fork inside the transmission and will have to replace or rebuild the transmission. Do a search for " transmission repair" and you will find excellent instructions by member stevasaurus on these rebuilds.

Better toss Stevbo's wooden nickel right out. If he does win, the're may be a riot!

Thanks sparky I will be getting it in one week!

Will be my first show. Is it time yet????

1st trip will be this year can't come soon enough. Oh I almost forgot need to get that 1045 done.

I would think a piece of PVC pipe (1 1/4" diameter) longer than the axle and cut very straight would work to "drive" the new seal into place. Just my idea......

I often thought about adding extra weight this way myself,, and thought a good way to cushion the draw bar against the trans case was to put a either bicycle or motorcycle grip from like a motor cross bike on the drawbar so it is cusioned against the trans,, because of the width of it they seem to fit tight enought they wont move and should provide adiquit protection,, just a thought,, or maybe a piece of minning belt , or simular hard rubber.

sure sounds like the shifter fork,it sounds like its(high low )is stuch in middle of stroke,

Well as the title suggests, my Grandfather had a truck. as a young kid I rode in the truck with him as we would get break fast from a Pancake house early in the morning as we visited them in Pennsylvania in the summer. That truck was one of the most exciting things to see when we would visit. 8 Years ago they moved to a retirement center and sold the Truck to a neighbors brother who owned a Garage for truck repair for $1000. Now just last week we called the neighbor, called the garage, and found the owner the garage sold the truck to...for $2000. So we called the current owner who used it as a work truck off the road in a little backwoods nursery. Anyways, I bought it for $1000. 500 from me, 200 from my parents, and 300 from my grandparents. Needless to say i was very happy. 1988 F250 HD 2WD Open Diff. 4.9L/300CI Inline 6 C6 auto (3 speed) Reg. Cab LB Dual 19 Gal. Tanks Embossed "F O R D" Logo on TailGate est. 160,000 miles Factory working A/C, and questionable radio manual and smokers windows

This has been discussed here before but I would say 300 pounds no problem

If you have time, I would soak the set screws with PB Blaster for a week, then try to remove them with the correct size allen socket that is new or ground sharp on the bottom. Tap the socket into the set screw before attempting to turn it. There are also tapered (easy out type) allen tools available that can be driven into the head of a damaged set screw. You could also try heat with these same tools. If you can't get it out, you should be able to drill it out with a carbide drill bit .The jack shaft should slide out if you unbolt and remove the bearings at both ends and remove the drive pulley.

Mid May will be fine Hank All images need to be posted by May31st.

Well, I have started making up some parts for the blade angling. Bracket will bolt to the frame and has been fitted. Frame has also been drilled and a guide fitted for the release cable to pass through. Angling rod will be 2 piece with a joiner for fine tuning turn handle position. Pipes have been bent, larger pipe to be cut down and welded to bracket. Smaller pipe will have handle and turn bar welded to it. Small piece of pipe with several holes is to connect release cable to blade lock pin. I will keep updating as parts get finished.

I have a piece of 1" black pipe with chicken wire rolled up and jammed in. Works well for a while. Was plowing yesterday and shot a chunk out......Time to re-pack!

Happy 17th birthday!

Well you could be like the real show dogs and run the hotdog or a pepper pot for everyday use then switch to the shower for show!?!?

If the back is good I can fix them if you decide to fix it or or sell it please send me a PM Brian

Yeah definitely rare these days that kids my age are into this. To bad he didn't have a wheel horse, next week while getting his truck I just found, I'm picking up my grandfather cub cadet 100 he bought new in 64. In Pennsylvania where the truck was driven the roads weren't really salted so the truck has just about zero rust problems. The worst is bubbling over the rear wheel wells. Also more pictures will come next week.

Seems the shower head is probably too thin to be saved on the outlet side. Perhaps the top of a pepper pot could be attached to the cone shaped base of the shower head.

I would buy the pepper pot style and use it,then u have time to get the original repaired and put it away so u have it but wear out the cheap imitation,just my 2 cents

The Magnum has a different starter,and flywheel than the K series.The throttle and choke are connected differently than the K series,at least the the ones I have are different. Internally I have read that the crank counter weights are lighter requiring the balance weights be used.Because the Magnum series doesn't use points the normal K ignition switch will not shut off the engine.The ignition has to go to ground as opposed to switched to open.The Magnum is a good choice to replace a K if you know what needs to be addressed to make it run and shut off.Engine swaps are what keep these old girls running.I have a 16 K in place of the 220 Onan that came in my 520h so if the price on the Magnum is reasonable and it is in good shape go for it.Luck,JAinVA

I thought you said old... My daily driver is a 98 with a 147,000. Newest vehicle I`ve ever owned. Glad you got Pap`s truck. It will last a long time..

I'm in this year, can't wait 'til June. Thank you Terry for all you do.

OK, I just happen to have 3 of these transmissions...2 are RJ #5003 and 1 is a Suburban #5010. The original goal was to build one good RJ transmission from these 3. This is sometimes a neat trick in itself. LANE RANGER (Lane Ralph) dropped these off at my house last weekend with that original goal in mind. (1st) this RJ tranny was on the tractor yet and froze up (the one on top in the wagon). We dropped the tranny in about 20 minutes...it was cold outside. (2nd) Suburban transmission (in front of wagon) was picked up as a spare. (3rd) transmission was already disassembled and in a box. My thought with this thread is to show tons of pictures and some videos of taking these apart, what tools really come in handy, cleaning, fixing and going through bearings, gears and seals, some tricks (methods) that have worked for me, getting parts and what to look for, and maybe being able to save...not one...but 3 transmissions. This thread is going to take some time to do...it's cold out...and I already know I am going to need some parts to make 3 transmissions. Feel free to add to this thread, or ask any questions. Here is the RJ Lane picked up...I think you can guess what the transmission looks like inside. I put the 1st transmission on the bench and proceeded to try to see what is going on inside by turning pulleys and axles. I could spin the hubs in opposite directions, but I could feel that something was not right. I think some broken teeth on the axle gears or pinions. It would not shift at all...the shifter is there, but the forks will not move at all. The transmission is in neutral, as you could turn the input pulley CCW and axles and brake drum did not turn. I was lucky, the hubs came off with a little help from my puller...the keys, hubs and axles are in great shape. Same with the brake band, brake drum and input pulley. Notice the tension pulley in the above picture. I did not have any luck getting that brake, tension pulley mechanism apart. It has a roll pin holding that together and it was not going to come out. I cut the rod in the middle of the transmission front with a 4" grinder. I think I can get a new rod and drill the one end and weld the other. Also, notice the dog point set screw is broken off flush with the casting. Now I could take this apart. OMG...a 1/2" of goop, some water, a lot of rust. You can see why the shift rails will not move. After cleaning, electrolysis is in order here. This transmission needs a good scraping and cleaning to see what else is good here. I think the case will clean up great in the E-Tank. Transmission #2...this was picked up as a spare. This is the suburban transmission. Notice the regular tension pulley. I was shocked, but the hubs, input pulley, brake band and brake drum came off easily with some assistance from my puller. I was also able to get that roll pin out and tap the tension pulley shaft apart so I could open this up. As you can see, this one had no oil in it. Somebody had rebuilt this and put it on the shelf. All the gears and bearings look real good. Differential turns nice, but I have not opened it yet. The bad thing...the 2 bottom bolt nubbies are broke off. They are stuck on the side plate...looking to try to fix this. This transmission has the needle bearing for the brake shaft. opening. Transmission #3...already apart and in a box. This one has had a tough life. The casting has been welded 3 times all the way across. ..and I think I see another crack. something else what a camera and flash will pick up. We have a issue with a couple of the bolt nubbies. One is about gone, and the one south of that looks like it has a crack. The welding looks top notch and the case appears straight. The side plates look good. The differential housing appears to have a crack. A couple of the pinions are half gone. Notice this is the newest differential for the 3 piece with the separate bull gear bolted on. The rest of the gears look good. OK...that is all for now. Looking to take the differentials apart next...purchase a gunk tank and clean up gears and plates.

GRAPE PIE

I bought my seals from Napa or somewhere similar. I will see if I can locate that info. RCPW shows them in stock however: I used a set of locking needle nose to pull the old seals off. As they were toast anyway, I just wrenched them out as they are press fit into the housing buty paint etc might make it a bit more challenging and mine were bent excessive in getting them off. Make sure there are no burs or sharp areas on the axle and gently slide the new seal over axle. I used something with large surface area to spread the force and tapped them into place.

That is one big tractor just to plow the driveway. That is not a farm, just a house with about a 50' driveway The top of that cage (ROPS? Not sure what it is) is easily 10', and looks closer to 15'

Tank there's nothing wrong with the manual linkage, its actual another very simple yet effective design, I just wanted to add some cool factor and make the plow easier to get on and off (not so sure why on that one though because like many of us i now have multiple horses). A few of us are currently chewing on this idea too so feel free to add in any of your ideas. I could always go back to the original linkage but im not ready to do that just yet. All is well upstate except for the fact im pretty sure the Island has gotten more snow then us this year! Im an avid snowmobiler and love moving snow with my so its been a huge disappointment this year. Ive had 3 snowfalls to speak of all year totaling about 10". I think last year we had a half dozen or so snow events that totaled more then that themselves. Ed i appreciate the thought youve been putting into this. I have saw alot of the great engineered additions you have made to your stuff so i am waiting for you to start working on accomplishing this task as well. I am definitely around the 200lb spot in your diagram but i have learned from my job that a static load is much much different then a dynamic/impact load. The actuator was quite strong for its size it would angle the blade with the blade still on the ground but once it took what i think was a pretty light hit on the opposite side of the blade she popped like a can of snakes!

O'Reilly's auto parts have a few different small mufflers. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Small+Engine+-+Mufflers/N0789/C0218.oap?page=1&results=20&sortBy=1

Thanks Paul. I was thinking along the same lines. I'm all manual on my '90 520-8 and no problems. I'll just chew on the idea for awhile. From Long Island, hope all's well upstate.

Here's some more on the big trade. The tractor was the GOOD This is the BAD And this is the UGLY I think this part was put on a shelf then over time it got knocked off and rolled under the tractor. I know there is a 99.999% chance it is ruined, but I'm going to try to get it loosened up and take it apart. I have given it a generous application of penetrating oil. Could be educational. And does this picture of the coil help to identify the year model of Kohler 14 hp motor in the GT-14?

I think having it operate on an approximately 45- 80 degree angle lessens the stress on the actuator. The pivot bolt will share more of the load, I think. But I still believe that it depends on the need to be heavy duty for this application. JB is selling them commercially with a warranty and I haven't found any complaint of them failing, other than one customer overworking the bucket.

Looks like some speedy work is coming out of South Haven, Jake! nice work, as usual

Great story. I'll bet the bulletproof 300 inline is just getting broke in.

Look at this diagram from TP Tools. Use metal piping and get that filter away from the compressor. You need the air to cool to so the moisture will condense and the filter will trap it. Lots of good reading about solving moisture problems in their catalog. http://www.tptools.com/

Very rare to find a new one. Last one I saw on eBay went for over $100.00.

Go in the manuals section and download a Kohler engine manual. It will cover how to adjust the carb. You should fix that link and adjust the governor too which is also covered in the manual

Here you go Zeek. See you there.

I hope this works. If not you can crop it, brighten it up or what ever it needs. What a great community, I'm so glad I found this group. Can't wait till the show. Thank you so much. Will look forward to meeting you.

I don't knooow about that...looking awful clean for an everyday mower! I think we have a closet collector here...

Thanks Lane...I was just going to order the short and the long set of those Grace roll pin punches. They look like they are the sets to have. I really like the fact that they have a short set. A huge THANK YOU to sorekiwi (Mike) for that info. pfrederi (Paul), you are correct...that blue handled set is just pin punches, not roll pin punches. I do have another set that is a roll pin set, has the bump on the tip,..GRIP (GRAND RAPIDS INDUSTRIAL PRODUCTS). The one in the shape of an "S" is from that set. Lane, I would not go looking for parts yet. Wait until I get them all apart and cleaned. I'm thinking we can weld that housing, and so far, 2 of the three castings need some welding also. Going to take apart the other 2 differentials. Being the Big Chicken that I am, I am going to do what I think will be the easy one first...from the transmission that did not have any oil in it. I am just going to post the pictures, since I took one apart above. She looks pretty, doesn't she?? A little wear on the axle ends, but not too bad. All the parts in this differential are good...E-Tank the housing a little and change out the bronze bearing, and good to go. Pay no attention to that puller above for the time being...I am going to try to use it on some of the bearings in these transmissions. OK, now for the gunky, rusty differential. Remember I said the axles did not feel quite right, like spider gears or axle gears. They would turn in opposite directions, but it felt like there was a bad spot every once in a while. Surprisingly, as nasty as this looks, it came apart as easy as the one with no oil. You just never know. You can see a few teeth missing out of the one axle gear. bottom-center below The one spider gear (pinion), that is laying down, is missing some teeth also, The rest of the spider gears and the other axle gear are OK. The differential housing looks to be alright. We will take a good look when these parts are cleaned and rust free, Off the top...looks like total 3 bad spider gears out of 12...1 bad axle gear and 1 that is a maybe OK for riding around in the yard and at shows...one differential housing that may be OK with some welding. That is not really too bad considering what they looked like in the wagon. All the wood ruff keys and notches and key ways in the hubs, axle gears and axles are great. That is a real +. Waiting for my gunk tank and some nice weather to be able to continue. Then comes someone to look at the welding.