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I've noticed when ever some one starts talking about the BIG SHOW,,,,my left foot starts rapping the floor like an old dog with an itch... Is it just me??? Something in the water??? something in Bieglersville??,,,, in the Pie?? or parhaps that space on the inside of the first turn where i park my reds....and a few lawn chairs ?? Any wayyyy ,,,, im ready to pack !!!!!!

Last years show I was offered $80 for my very old showerhead muffler and when I said "Are you crazy" -the guy offered my $100. I did not sell but even yours is worth some big money! I have one of each of my RJ's!

Ready to Pack? You're way behind me Howard! All I have left to do is buy the pie!

I am in total agreement Dave. I got pretty busy this week but I am going to add the WH CC MEMBER LOGO TO ALL THE DESIGNS SOON.

Terry, I am also a WHCC member. Quite honestly, every RedSquare support member who is attending the Big Show should be a WHCC member. If not, they should be. This is a tremendous event that the WHCC hosts.

So I've posted a few times already and been given great advice...figured I would start my own rebuild thread... engine is is strong so hoping to mess with it as little as possible. Goal is to wire wheel everything, paint, put together and get this tractor back to work. Late the last night got my wheel off, only took an hour....today pulled my tool box, which is welded to the gas tank stand as a whole piece. Frankly at this point I'm feeling intimidated lol. I'll be needing fresh wires, fuel line, and choke and throttle cables if anyone wants to recommend me on that stuff.

I will be glad for the Big Show to get here. Clothes are packed in plastic bag ( From Lowes) and all I need to pack is the suitcase full of old man pills. What kind of pie?

This would worry me that the sharp front edge of the drawbar might crack the tranny housing from the impact if the weight would bounce. I don't have my weights mounted this way, but if I did, I would add a plate between the drawbar and the case to spread out the load. The plate could be tapped for a couple small bolts and fender washers that could clamp it to the bar to keep it in place.

Well, It's pretty easy. If the gears are shifting OK, there might be a simple disconnect in the drive train. The first check is with the tractor running and the transmission in gear, check both axles to see if one is turning inside the hub. If one is turning, the key is sheared and must be replaced. If neither axle is turning, then remove the belt guard and check to see if the transmission input shaft turns when you turn the pulley. If it doesn't turn the shaft, the key is sheared or lost. If the input shaft is turning and neither axle is turning with the transmission in gear, you have a broken gear or shifter fork inside the transmission and will have to replace or rebuild the transmission. Do a search for " transmission repair" and you will find excellent instructions by member stevasaurus on these rebuilds.

Better toss Stevbo's wooden nickel right out. If he does win, the're may be a riot!

Thanks sparky I will be getting it in one week!

Will be my first show. Is it time yet????

1st trip will be this year can't come soon enough. Oh I almost forgot need to get that 1045 done.

I would think a piece of PVC pipe (1 1/4" diameter) longer than the axle and cut very straight would work to "drive" the new seal into place. Just my idea......

I often thought about adding extra weight this way myself,, and thought a good way to cushion the draw bar against the trans case was to put a either bicycle or motorcycle grip from like a motor cross bike on the drawbar so it is cusioned against the trans,, because of the width of it they seem to fit tight enought they wont move and should provide adiquit protection,, just a thought,, or maybe a piece of minning belt , or simular hard rubber.

sure sounds like the shifter fork,it sounds like its(high low )is stuch in middle of stroke,

Well as the title suggests, my Grandfather had a truck. as a young kid I rode in the truck with him as we would get break fast from a Pancake house early in the morning as we visited them in Pennsylvania in the summer. That truck was one of the most exciting things to see when we would visit. 8 Years ago they moved to a retirement center and sold the Truck to a neighbors brother who owned a Garage for truck repair for $1000. Now just last week we called the neighbor, called the garage, and found the owner the garage sold the truck to...for $2000. So we called the current owner who used it as a work truck off the road in a little backwoods nursery. Anyways, I bought it for $1000. 500 from me, 200 from my parents, and 300 from my grandparents. Needless to say i was very happy. 1988 F250 HD 2WD Open Diff. 4.9L/300CI Inline 6 C6 auto (3 speed) Reg. Cab LB Dual 19 Gal. Tanks Embossed "F O R D" Logo on TailGate est. 160,000 miles Factory working A/C, and questionable radio manual and smokers windows

This has been discussed here before but I would say 300 pounds no problem

If you have time, I would soak the set screws with PB Blaster for a week, then try to remove them with the correct size allen socket that is new or ground sharp on the bottom. Tap the socket into the set screw before attempting to turn it. There are also tapered (easy out type) allen tools available that can be driven into the head of a damaged set screw. You could also try heat with these same tools. If you can't get it out, you should be able to drill it out with a carbide drill bit .The jack shaft should slide out if you unbolt and remove the bearings at both ends and remove the drive pulley.

Mid May will be fine Hank All images need to be posted by May31st.

Well, I have started making up some parts for the blade angling. Bracket will bolt to the frame and has been fitted. Frame has also been drilled and a guide fitted for the release cable to pass through. Angling rod will be 2 piece with a joiner for fine tuning turn handle position. Pipes have been bent, larger pipe to be cut down and welded to bracket. Smaller pipe will have handle and turn bar welded to it. Small piece of pipe with several holes is to connect release cable to blade lock pin. I will keep updating as parts get finished.

I have a piece of 1" black pipe with chicken wire rolled up and jammed in. Works well for a while. Was plowing yesterday and shot a chunk out......Time to re-pack!

Happy 17th birthday!

Well you could be like the real show dogs and run the hotdog or a pepper pot for everyday use then switch to the shower for show!?!?

If the back is good I can fix them if you decide to fix it or or sell it please send me a PM Brian

Yeah definitely rare these days that kids my age are into this. To bad he didn't have a wheel horse, next week while getting his truck I just found, I'm picking up my grandfather cub cadet 100 he bought new in 64. In Pennsylvania where the truck was driven the roads weren't really salted so the truck has just about zero rust problems. The worst is bubbling over the rear wheel wells. Also more pictures will come next week.

Seems the shower head is probably too thin to be saved on the outlet side. Perhaps the top of a pepper pot could be attached to the cone shaped base of the shower head.

I would buy the pepper pot style and use it,then u have time to get the original repaired and put it away so u have it but wear out the cheap imitation,just my 2 cents

The Magnum has a different starter,and flywheel than the K series.The throttle and choke are connected differently than the K series,at least the the ones I have are different. Internally I have read that the crank counter weights are lighter requiring the balance weights be used.Because the Magnum series doesn't use points the normal K ignition switch will not shut off the engine.The ignition has to go to ground as opposed to switched to open.The Magnum is a good choice to replace a K if you know what needs to be addressed to make it run and shut off.Engine swaps are what keep these old girls running.I have a 16 K in place of the 220 Onan that came in my 520h so if the price on the Magnum is reasonable and it is in good shape go for it.Luck,JAinVA

I thought you said old... My daily driver is a 98 with a 147,000. Newest vehicle I`ve ever owned. Glad you got Pap`s truck. It will last a long time..

I'm in this year, can't wait 'til June. Thank you Terry for all you do.

Funny you should mention this subject. I was just out in my workshop today lining up my WH projects for this spring, and deciding what to bring and what to sell. Temperature is going down to zero this weekend, so the work can't be started for awhile. I'm going to my first show of the year next weekend. It's the Lebanon Valley show in PA, and the feature tractor is all Garden Tractors. I've got cabin fever and the Wheel Horse itch. Jim

I also use a big, heavy steel washer in front of the PVC pipe and against the seal to set it with a tap -and not to heavy from a rubber mallet. Make sure to feel and see if all the steel edges are free of burrs where the oil seal goes in the sidecase of the transmission.

Steve, take a look at the pinned thread in this sub forum. Bearing and seal cross numbers. you will see the info in the snap pic below...and perhaps other data...

I agree. That hi/lo fork looks to be a likely suspect. May be time to open her up. It's not difficult. Watch Steve's video and there's plenty of help here.

Hi all. Thanks so much for the support! OK, here's an update. I came home jacked up the rear end and started up the tractor. In all gears, no spinning of the wheels. Seems to be moving freely. The input wheel is spinning, as is the shaft. No movement on the shafts to the hubs. The lo hi gear seems to be moving, but I can feel it grinding and I don't think it's catching. On the Tranny, there is about a 1/4 to 3/8 gap between the "stopper" on the lo hi shift arm and the Tranny case. I'm beginning to suspect it's the lo hi gear??

Not to get off topic but did anyone catch this ? http://www.theguardian.com/environment/video/2016/jan/08/snowy-owl-photo-flight-cctv-montreal-canada-video

I run a water trap and regulator followed by one of these air and moisture filters. No oiler as I don't want my hoses and lines contaminated. I oil my tools individually as needed. Works great for blasting, painting, and using tools. You can buy the manufacturer's replacement cartridges, but a roll of toilet paper works just fine as well for just pennies. I've found nothing else that works as well for removing moisture for the price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/361307656049?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Ha ha. I didn't know it was in that bad shape as to be unrecognizable. It's the pump piston assembly that makes the thing go.

O'Reilly's auto parts have a few different small mufflers. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Small+Engine+-+Mufflers/N0789/C0218.oap?page=1&results=20&sortBy=1

Nice project.....Don't feel intimidated ...everyone on here likes to help on these projects. Make use of the manuals and wanted sections. Take plenty of pictures and bag and mark the parts to help in the reassembly.

Great story. I'll bet the bulletproof 300 inline is just getting broke in.

Hello everyone, I have finally joined Red Square after several weeks of reading posts and looking at the awesome pictures everyone posts of their WH’s. I guess you could say I need a place where I can talk to people who have the same “addiction†as me because I can tell you my wife is about ready to make me move out to the garage if I don’t stop talking about WH’s to her. Anyway, I just wanted to post my summer project I just completed two weeks ago. My dad gave me a 1983 Wheel Horse GT-1642 Work Horse back in May. He didn’t have any use for it sitting around his house after he stole the deck off it for his 520 (I owe my dad and my uncle for getting me hooked on Wheel Horses). The tractor was in pretty rough shape so I figured I would give it a go and see how I could do restoring the old beast. I completely stripped it down and got the frame and wheels painted just in time for the big show in Aredntsville. I put the rusty sheet metal back on the frame so I had it to ride around the grounds. The next week I stripped it back down to the wheels and chassis. I sand blasted all the sheet metal down to bare metal so I have a fresh rust free surface to work with. Once all the body prep work was done, I primed it with Rustoleum rust prohibiting primer and then shot it with Rustoleum Smoke Grey oil based enamel. I know the color is a darker than the way they came from South Bend but I liked the color on the tractor. I ordered new decals from Redo Your Horse, which the quality is absolutely amazing!! After some wet sanding and buffing I assembled it back together, stickered it, installed a new seat, and I have been using is to pull my lawn sweep after I mow with the 520. It’s a blast to drive. This is an awesome forum site!!! Thanks for letting me share!!

Hi All, I noticed these this morning and thought to myself,license plates!!! What a cool way to display our love of this hobby. Here's a link to what i'm talking about. This is not an attempt at sales!! I just had an idea and wanted to share. http://www.giftsforyounow.com/you-name-it-license-plate-413233.aspx and another link showing the level of detail that can be created http://www.giftsforyounow.com/picture-perfect-license-plate-414733.aspx I may need permission to do this so if there is an administrator that could chime here that would be helpful. Randy

They would rather sell you a knew tractor then let you buy an $80 bearing to keep your 60 year old Wheel Horse going.

=================================================== They were made by Western Tool & Stamping Co. and sold under the Craftsman and the Homko names. This is the 1963 Homko version, that I got for free on Craigs list a few years ago. You would not believe how well it moves snow. I used it in 16" of snow and could not clog it. It just laughs at the plow bank, at the end of the driveway. It also was throwing snow 10' in the air. Mine has an H-35 on it. I made new front wheels for it, because the ones in the photo were worn down so much.----- John in York

30 wt oil will become thick as molasses in freezing temps. It will NOT thoroughly lubricate your splash lubricated engine until it warms up. So basically, it's like running your engine without oil for a while when used in freezing temperatures. Try pouring some out of a bottle when it's frozen and you will definitely notice how thick it becomes and then imagine trying to splash it with a stick. That is what's going on inside your engine, unless your engine is equipped with an oil pump. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLeXpF1kzDU

Kohler recommendations looks lie 10w-30 would be good for you

Nice work. I did a GT 1848 last year myself. It was in similar condition when I got it. Sat outside it's entire life and was more brown than grey.