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I now present, the "Bronco 12 Special". I have had this tractor done for a couple months now, but have been having too much fun playing in the garage instead of posting on here lately. I covered the build of mechanical aspects of this tractor in a previous thread. Since then, I've obviously spent some time on the cosmetic aspects of it. My concept when I started planning this over two years ago was to build a tractor that had what I felt were the ideal features of a show tractor; compact size, hydro drive and lift for easy operation, starter generator for quiet starts, and full foot boards and safety features so my kids can run it safely (with supervision). Of course, I wanted it to look good too. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but I like the way it turned out. It's just a rattlecan paint job, but I tried to do what I could to make it turn out as good as possible. The slightly customized decals from Terry really help too. Oh, and the name. As the other thread explained, the tractor is essentially the rear half of a Bronco 14, the front half of an 8hp 4sp, and a newer 12HP Kohler that came in the Bronco, but had the S/G and tins from a 1056. I couldn't come up with a name that incorporated all of that, but "Bronco 12 Special" I felt hit the main points. I won't recount all the steps of the restoration, but will hit a few highlights: The tires. It seems like these threads often prompt the question, "what tires are you using?" The rears are Carlisle 23x8.50-12 Power-Trac's. They are mounted on Wards rims (John Deere 110/112 rims are the same I think) to tuck them in about an inch closer than the original Wheel Horse rims. They still give me about 1" between the tire and the drive motor. The fronts are 15x6.00-6 Vredestein's on the 8hp 4spd front rims. I wanted to go with some tri-ribs since they were cheaper, but I thought the 3.50-6's looked too small, and the 4.00-8's were bigger than I wanted to go. The engine runs great, but it did suffer from the all-to-common issue of the dipstick rubber having shrunk and not holding it in the tube. Rather than replacing it, I tried a different approach that seems to have worked. I got some 1 3/8" wiring heat shrink wrap and put it on the rubber "stopper" on the dipstick. It added just enough to keep it from popping out while the engine is running. I haven't run it alot yet, but it seems to be holding up. The hydraulic hoses as I got them were functional, but one had worn through and was patched together with a doubled-ended barb union and some hose clamps. Another hose on the cylinder leaked at the swivel fitting. Following advice I found in a thread on here, I went the Surplus Center route for replacement hoses, with 1/4" JIC 4 hoses in 12", 18", 24" and 30" lengths. The hoses worked great, but the same thread advised to get JIC 4 90deg fittings and then JIC 4 to 5 straight adapters to hook into the JIC 5 ports on the valve, cylinder and pump. I just couldn't make the turns tight enough coming off the pump doing it that way. I ended up ordering some JIC 4 to 5 (1/4" to 5/16") 90deg fittings from hydraulicsdirect.com. Even then, I had to enlarge the hole in the seat support to accommodate the longer coupler sleeve on the new hoses, but eventually it did work. Even though the suggested fittings could have worked on the cylinder connections, I got some of the JIC 4 to 5 90deg fittings there too for a cleaner install. To get the air cleaner to fit with the 12HP engine under the 8HP 4spd hood, I had previously mentioned using the carb and cleaner off of a 212 John Deere. This still was an awfully tight fit. By accident, I found that the air cleaner from a certain model of Cub Cadet was the same concept, but lower profile to give me a little more clearance. Both the Cub and the Deere breathed from the back side of the cleaner, drawing air from the flywheel blower housing. Since I change the orientation of the air cleaner, I had to fill that hole and drill holes to breath in from the front side. What drove me to look for a different air cleaner was trying to put headlights in. Even with the Cub air cleaner, I didn't have room for the stock headlight buckets, so I went the LED route. I fabbed up a plate from a sheet of aluminum that covered the opening from the inside, and stuck 6x6 LED panels on. Just going straight across the back side of the grill with the aluminum, and the lens on the front side, there was enough room in between for the LED's. The best part is, the LED's put out more light than the stock headlight bulbs. Not willing to leave well enough alone with the headlights, I went one step farther and integrated some amber strobe/blinker lights. For fairly cheap, I got a roll of cut-to-length amber LED strip lights and mounted a couple strips on the outsides of the headlights. They still fit behind the front lens, so unless they are lit, you don't know they are there. I wanted a similar, clean look in the back. It took me a while to come up with something, but eventually I found a motorcycle tail light that had integrated turn signals. It sticks out farther than a stock tail light, but that is mainly to incorporate a license plate light that points downward, which might be handy for shining some light on the hitch. The light used a single ground wire, and the strobe controller I had required individual grounds for each blinker, but it wasn't too hard to modify the circuit board to add individual grounds. I mounted the controller on the plate under the gas tank, easy to reach but not obvious that it's there. I wish I could say it's perfect, but I do have a few lessons learned that may eventually bother me enough to make me fix them. The transmission drips. Since Toro discontinued the 5999 gasket, I had to make my own and I think I used the wrong material. The 1/64 felt-like material I used I think wicks the Type-A trans fluid just enough to create a very slow drip. It's so slow, it's not a big deal, but eventually may bother me enough to try a different gasket material. Even if I did fix it though, the lift cylinder drips too, and I don't think there is anything I can do about that other than try to find a different cylinder. The muffler leaks. The muffler is a will-fit Gravely replacement off of Ebay, and after running it a little it has soot marks coming out at every seam. Not a big deal on a working tractor, but I want this one to look nice. I like the looks otherwise, so may eventually have to try a higher quality version. All in all, I am pretty happy with how it turned out. I didn't get it done in time to take to any shows in 2015, but look forward to making it to a few 2016 shows with it.

I'll have to check later for the name of the buffing product, but basically I: 1. Degreased and powerwashed. (Be careful because the powerwasher took off some of the black print on the decals as well as blew off the decal for the seat lock) The black color on the decals is delicate. 2. The wheels were broke down and powder coated. 3. The deck obviously was rebuilt and painted. 4. The tractor itself was only cleaned, degreased, and buffed. (in addition to mechanical repairs) There is still good paint under those faded red tractors. That old paint was a lot more durable than what is used now. All you have to do is get the oxidation off.

Any pictures of it now? Sometimes a good cleaning and polish will look better than repaint. Before After

My 1960 Suburban as I found it. This poor girl was in bad shape, nothing moved and calcium chloride had ate the front rims. A big win was getting the steering apart. Decided to make this a rat project, didn't realize how hard it would be for me to clean parts up so they would work and not paint them.

Some pics... I realized that the serial number tag is not present on the new one, so I guess it'll have to assume the identity of the donor tractor..

The engine that was in it was wrong and locked up tight, not worth trying to save. Now please don't hate on my engine choice, the wrong engine is the wrong engine don't matter where it was made. Opened the box on my new engine and tore it apart, different cam, valve springs, piston, rod & filed the flywheel key to advance the timing. I would have changed the flywheel but I don't plan on spinning any faster than 3600 RPMs. Big air filter will require some extensions on the brake peddle and left foot peg. Made a new header pipe so I could fit the 2 1/2" exhaust.

Hub and axle key ways were worn out. Instead of buying new parts I cut a new key way in the axles so I could use a strait key and utilize the unused portion of the hub slot. When I opened the tranny I found a nice surprise, the inside was a rusty muddy mess. Got the trans cleaned up, installed all new bearings, bushings and seals. I also drilled and tapped the hubs so there would be a set screw over the key,

Hi, my name is Dick Schmidt and I go by 953 nut, mainly because I'm nuts about 953s. This year my wife gave me a cool Wheel Horse Umbrella. I have one grand daughter, here she is at her first birthday party. and here we are ten years later. I purchased my first Wheel Horse 953 in 2002, already had a 1055. This past summer I per purchased a 953 project to be picked up at the "Big Show", but spinal surgery prevented me from going. Wheel-N-It (Van) and James came to my rescue and brought it to North Carolina so I could retrieve it after some recuperation. Thanks guys. and this is my membership card to the "Titanium Troopers Club"

I got my one of my sheds cleaned out this weekend and snuggled my RS-83 Senior in to it for the winter! No time to get it running yet, bummer! Now the weather has changed for the worse, it is 19 degrees out there now! Wahoo! Now bring on the snow!

63's had the two piece tanks 701 ,702 and all others tractors with a front engines thru 64 came from the factory with a square pan seat Brian

You may have a rare 701.5! I'm not trying to be cute. Others have pointed out that the Ponds were frugal and not all that concerned about changing things mid-year. Unless I've overlooked a comment in this thread proving otherwise your 701 might very well have come with that 702 hood! Maybe it made it to the dealer with a 701 hood that got damaged and was replaced with a 702 hood before it was sold. Folks say "I bought it brand new that way! I know it was original!" Tough to know with Wheel Horses, with all their mid-year changes and overlaps. However, one thing is original! Your memories! Try to be true to both the Wheel Horse and your history with it. Share them here and with your family. Obviously we've enjoyed them! But I suggest you don't get overly concerned about the hood.

Thank you , I figure that I could meet more of the guys at a motel , since I will be the nut case running around looking at everything. I may look like I have Rabies from the spit running down my chin , just do not shoot me.

I think we can say with some confidence now that this horse started out as a 701...so it is a 701...started as a 701...and is still a 701. soooooo...it is a .... 701

This Sunday, and this Sunday only, you will find me doing the Discount Double Check as the Packers take on that team from where Congress meets. Go Bears 2016!

Turns out it was the coil. I replaced the points and condenser and had the same problem, engine got hot and it started to spit and sputter. Swapped coils with the one on my case 220 (I know it's not a horse I'm sorry lol) and it purred like a kitten regardless of the engine being hot or cold. I'll have to get a coil after work tomorrow and that should do it!

The Comfort Inn Chambersburg and Scotland seem to be the same one. And, just for the record, I was only kidding about having a cook's corner! But, since we are talking about cooking you know if you tied a hot dog to the muffler while driving in the parade it would be cooked by the second lap!

Yes! I'd like to know what compound was used as well! Turned out really nice for no new paint! I'd also like to have a rough idea of how long it took and how much was hand polishing... I don't mind running a buffer but that hand movement gets pretty old to me pretty quickly.

Not yet, it gets cleaned once a year on the Wed before the show!

For 3 years I stayed at what was Motel 6 in G burg which is now President's Inn, Now I stay at the same Comfort Inn as Steve. no comparision plus a little entertainment to boot! Of course the Harley Dudes circling the Motel 6 at midnight one year was somewhat exciting. Ok guys, What's that crappy Motel that Duke likes so much? Blue Oyster or something?

I stay in Gettysburg and usually see a Wheel Horse guy or two there but it doesn't really matter where you stay, we all gather at the show! The hotel is only used for a shower and the bed before and after the show. We get down there Thu and leave on Sun.

There really is no good motel, if any, that is close to the show. Gettysburg has a ton of places to stay, but they run like over $100 a night...remember it is the weekend before the 4th of July. Chambersburg and where I stay in Scotland are more reasonable (around $80 to $90+ weekdays/weekends) and very nice...it is about 20 miles from the show, but it is a very nice drive each way. Do a Google map for Chambersburg Motels and see what you come up with. We stay at the Scotland Comfort Inn.

Because we is gonna import the ribs & fixins & you, put a blindfold on ya, tell ya yer in the land of OZ that we magicaly turned from green to RED and set ya to cookin!!! Oh and put a glass of Rock & Rye on the stick instead of a carrot so ya don't waiver from yer duties! That just might be easier....

Would you go to Texas to get a Philly Cheese Steak??? Would you go to St Louis to get Maryland Crab Cakes??? Would you go to New York to get Chicago Deep Dish Pizza??? Would you go anywhere and try to get Italian Beef (Chicago ONLY)??? Boston does not even know what a CHOCOLATE MALT is!! Why would anyone think you could get my ribs in Pennsylvania?? Like what Craig was saying and to clarify...they have some nice ladies cooking and serving Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner on the grounds...of course you can cook what you want at your camp site...but you can stay there and not cook at all also. The food is very good. You just can not cook like hot dogs by where your horses are...really no reason to do that.

You have to go to Texas Road House with us.

Red Ranger nailed it. When I 1st joined here, a discussion was going on. It comes down to this.... A plow is an attachment that mounts on the back of your tractor and turns the earth over. A Snow Plow does not exist...it is a Snow Blade. Just so you know. BTW any "snow blade" that has an "A" frame like Craig pictured will fit on your horse. You will need the attach-thingy that bolts on the trans axle to attach the blade to use one. They go for about $25 and the blade will be around $50 to $125. I would not pay much more then that.

Agreed! This has been so much fun! I thank you all for sharing your knowledge and wisdom with me. Should any of you come across a plow that will work on my 701 , please think of me and let me know.

I am not sure why that happened. It was getting stuck loading so I tried again. That must have produced the two posts. I changed browsers and seem to be able to function okay now! Steve, we would love too, but our daughter graduates high school that weekend. We'll have to wait until 2017! And my son will be the fourth generation. He helped bring her back and I've already told him she will be his one day.

So got the new valve keepers installed tonight. Valve compressor tool made it super slick. Checked valve clearances, was good to go so flipped the key and it fired up. Sounded good so I'm going to close the chapter on this K181 issue.

Aren't you going to put a blankie on it to keep it warm?

I want to thank my good friends Jeff (fireman) and Vin (Vins RJ) for stopping over an helping me get this 57' running that I got at the big show two years ago. We replaced the engine that was in it with a good running K91 that I bought there the same year. Both were sitting on the shelf for the past two years. IMG_2971.MOV Click on video at bottom. IMG_2970.MOV

The Blue Oyster Cult, I think.

That's a mid-mount grader blade. Definitely a nice attachment to have. You'd be best looking for a 42" snow blade.

John is kind of right about the motel thing. A few more have been staying at the Scotland Comfort Inn and some of us get together and go out for dinner on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday night. This sounds like what you are looking for and you are moor then welcome to stay and go out to eat . send me a PM

.....until somebody got rowdy and started drivin a tractor up and down the halls......

Keep the square decal, since your making them, on belt guard maybe 701.9 or 701-2 . Welcome to RS. Chris from Florida.

RedRanger, can we ask what you used on the paint. That is quite a difference, looks great

keep that in mind how much force it must have been exerting to bend it when it was spinning on the machine!! and not to let your fingers and toes get near it!! Or for that matter stray cats or even your neighbors John Deere may get ""accidently """" chewed up

I just learned this last week installing the 8HP in the 702. With the 8HP filter element installed, I cannot get the hood on. I'm able to use the 8HP filter cover by installing a narrow 4-7HP filter element inside. Diameter of both paper elements is the same, the 7Hp is just more narrow allowing the cover to not stick out as far. I wouldn't try this on any larger engine, but I can't imagine that the air flow is that much different in 1HP. They're both basically the same engine and carb.

You will have to text me the answers to those questions....I might be goin the other way!!

http://www.spaenaur.com/catalog/index.html#C137 A Canadian company that has been in the business since 1936. Garry

Thats a good price for them too ...I just spent 10 clams for only 6 of them, i think they saw me coming, plus 5 bucks in gas to go get them! Now lets go findem in stainless.. mine seem to rust... I think we need to buy in bulk and open our own RS hardware store!

All the sheet metal seems to be in very good shape and is all there, shy of the battery cover. It seems it was subject to corrosion, I might patch it up or just end up remaking one. The tires I might be concerned with if we hook up to that 3 bottom plow! I'll probably be on the lookout for some ags but I'm not sure if I'll get another set of wheels or just swap them out. I'm sure they'd be a bear to work with by myself!

Stainless also like to gall. Ever try to get a stainless bolt and stainless nut apart when the threads are galled?

Its funny that you posted this topic as I just made a new one for myself tonight its not as beefy as ur's but I think it will hold up fine on my little 633 I didn't go with stainless though I did think about it but I wanted to keep future wear on the pin instead of the axle I'm thinking the stainless would wear much slower then the pivot points on the axle. I'm probably over thinking it.

You guys are all nuts.

My shop is so cluttered with stuff , I have to back out the door so I can look for something. I could build a 40 x 40 ft building and fill it up the day it was completed.

Depends on how much tearing down or taping up you want to do. Nothing looks worse than things being painted that aren`t supposed to be. Like tires, wires, fuel lines etc.

Like ACman pointed out, those diamond pattern tires tell me it has had an easy life, they won't provide enough traction for rely hard work.