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The Horizon is also a 1987. Two classics! What were you expecting???

Best wishes to all for a healthy and prosperous new year. Also many thanks for the kindness and helpfulness of this forums members. I bought my first wheelhorse several years ago under duress. My big box mower deck had rusted out and the cost was over $300 for just the pan. I couldn't see paying that much money and had no money for a new machine. I had a large field to maintain that was becoming more overgrown by the day. But I found a c160 auto on Craigslist that came with two tillers and a mowing deck for $600. I knew nothing about the wheelhorse name but was fascinated with the versatility of the machine and took the plunge. I was wary buying a machine that was nearly 40 years old but now I think of it as one of the best expenditures I have ever made. I now have 5 c160 autos, 3 tillers, two push blades, 5 mowing decks, a cultivator, grader blade, and a pull behind blade. It is a definite addiction. But there is something very special about owning a machine that functions well and was built to last. All this to say that my comfort with owning these old machines and depending on them is in no small part due to the members of this forum who willingly share encouragement and knowledge with me and others who have much less experience and knowledge. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.

Agreed, leaving it there to cover the hole won't hurt anything. But I wouldn't run the fuel thru it. If the diaphragm gets cracks, you will be pumping fuel into the crankcase.

I agree whole heatedly, we can all learn a great deal from posts here and I too get a lot of satisfaction from driving 50+ year old made to last equipment.

I'm done with Santa duties and got to spend quality time with grandchildren. Now it's back to fun. I got the hood mounting bracket and edge pieces welded on. I had to do a lot of hammering and shaping to get the hood to fit properly. I welded in a transmission support plate to beef up the existing pitted plate. Now the rough stuff is done I can continue with the frame prep and sheet metalwork.

My highschool girlfriends parents had a Horizon which I snickered at as it was never running properly. When asked "Well what kind of car do I have" I told them I drove a '76 vette. That kept them quiet for a few weeks until they saw the '76 Chevette. Thats when they began to like me!!!!! Lol

I'll second that I've got a tractor almost as old as me and it's still in pretty great shape

Couldn`t have said it better myself...

What I have done is back the idle screw out so it does not make contact any more then loosen the throttle plate screws and retighten them making sure the throttle will fully close without binding. Cleat

Hey Duke, you gonna have all the curtains closed today so nobody will see you rooting for Ohio State?

This topic was the very first time I was fooled in 2016.....

you should be proud of the fantastic job you are doing to save this old horse Hank I did a lot of the same with mine it's a lot of work http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/9468-brians-854-complete-rebuild/ brian

That's kinda what I meant to say. Leave the pump on to keep badgers out and run the hose from the new pump to the carb directly.

Ya got me. I was expecting a Center County sunset picture. My youngest sons first car was a $50 beater Horizon. He kept it running during his High school years with 2 rolls of duct tape and a spool of baling wire.

Most of my deck hitches are badly worn so I decided to make a couple. These are for my 42" and 48" decks. 60" is completely different. They are just tacked together now to check for fitment, I will take them back to work for final welding and painting. I have drawn up the plans, I will scan them and post as well. Cleat

Just picked this this up over the new year, think its a c120 needs some tlc, ( new bearing in PTO, wheel has has slid on axle, needs a new battery,) but seems solid, the decks going up for sale if anyone needs one, I bought it as a parts tractor but its too good to break, so its gonna be the main mowing tractor now, so I can have a dedicated Rotavator tractor,

so I finally figured out how to get pics from my phone to my puter to photobucket,so heres a few pics of my new to me 1976 c 160 8 speed.i got her in the early summer,left it at my friends for a few months,just too busy to even tinker with her until the holidays,so I finally got time to put a new battery,new fuel lines,spark plug,tranny flush,oil change,new head gasket so I decarboned her,rear axle seals,front tires and painted the front rims,replaced all the lighting system,even new sockets,shes painted black but its growing on me,i will restore her as she is in real nice shape,tight steering,all body panels are good,but that wont be for a few years,im happy to get this machine to go with my c 160 auto,which I might leave original,both tractors are mechanically perfect,every thing works as should,but the 8 speed will need to be red one day,heres the pics

January 1 and I needed to swap the snowplow on two tractors. The 520xi was used last Winter (along with the 523Dxi and C-105) with the plow so I decided to use the 518xi this Winter. I hadn't used it since Fall 2014 after breaking my ankle last June. It amazed me that it just needed a little coaxing after sitting for a year to start. After changing the oil and filter, I ran around the yards to basically mulch the remaining leaves. Tomorrow I'll swap the deck for the plow. Who would think to do this on the First of the New Year!

So that is where all the C-160's are going. Ya know, sooner or later, you will be the Guru on the C-160's...take many great pictures and write things down. If you build it...they will come.

Did you get the throttle plate back in the exact correct position ? If it is even slightly offset it may be causing the throttle to hang up and not close properly. Cleat

They sure do! Here are just a few of the 680+ (!) photos taken by the trail camera since I cleared the path. And a few more

A few of us would love pictures of that.

Sure! Lot's of great ideas there, but... based on the state of Hyundai's heavy equipment reliability now... I'm thinking their designs should be getting less complicated, not more.

Thanks for the kind words buckrancher. It was your rebuild that convinced me to buy this little neglected horse. I took note and used some of your ideas for the repairs needed. I don't have your machinist skills so some things will have to be as is. If it were not for this forum and all the great people who share information I probably would not have attempted this build. I am looking forward to warm weather to start painting but I have plenty to do till then.

Leave the pump just bypass it. New fuel lines along with a new fuel filter.

That's what Chrysler did too!

This is what I think you might be looking for. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200648999_200648999?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Trailers%20%2B%20Towing%20%3E%20Trailer%20Axles&utm_campaign=Ultra-Tow&utm_content=48206&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=48206&gclid=CLaSr9Xlh8oCFcwWHwodoCwPtw

1-link chains would be a cross chain attached to every link of the circular chain that runs around the circumference of the rim. 2-link chains have a cross member on every other link, and 4-link chains have a cross member on every fourth link. V-bar chains have v-shaped metal cleats welded to the cross members that act like studs. Much better grip, but they will turn asphalt or even concrete into dust. On asphalt, "rubber chains" with rubber cross members are much less likely to damage the driveway. I use 2-link chains without the v-bar on a concrete drive, and it will leave a few scrape marks if I spin the tires, but not too bad. I have the heavy 2-link v-bar chains from tirechain.com on my snowthrower at the cabin, on a gravel drive. They are the best, most aggressive chains that I own, but they are a little bigger than advertised, and had to cut out about 8 links and a crossmember to get a tight fit. I also use diamond pattern chains on the ags on my loader in the winter. Ags on packed snow or ice without them are almost useless. My best set-up on ice/hardpack is 2-link v-bar chain on turfs on the rear, with tri-ribs on the front

Great, now I'm going to have nightmares after seeing that car. I had a binder 2" thick with just the carb service bulletins on that model. And don't get me started on the water leaks!

The rebuild has officially began. I got the motor unstuck and most of the replacement tins purchased. My son gave me a good set of rear wheels. So far I've had 2 bolts break off. The transmission shifter bolt and one belt guard bolt. I will be needing a left fender, gas cap,lift cable and choke and throttle cables so far. I'm shure a lot more before i'm finished. I can move it around slot easier now but it shure doesn't look like a tractor any more. My wife said it looks like a pile of junk.

You know what upset me more then any of the scores of the games?? The jerk from ESPN with the crew cut that came on after the MSU / Alabama game and just had to say how the black mark was on the Big Ten after that loss. These guys are so biased and full of BS it is not funny. They have been looking for a way to step on the Big Ten, the ACC, the Big 12 and the Pac 12 for a long time. I'm surprised they are not located in Mobile, Al. Sure, MSU got their clock cleaned...and everyone in the Big Ten will tell you that MSU may not have been the best team in the conference. I think Ohio St. is still the best team in the conference, and Alabama is lucky to have not had to play them. They did not show up for the game they needed to, and OSU payed the price. I still think the Big Ten is the best conference Top to Bottom...the Pac 12 and the SEC...would not want to live on the difference...and how about the ACC?? Good for them. Go Clemson. One more rant...........Brent Mussburger (sp) for the play by play for the Rose Bowl...OMG...I will be watching the Rose bowl game with the mute on. This guy is related to Joe buck.

Unless you need some gears or bearings once you get inside, what you will need is the following: 1 - 3912 Gasket 2 - 100443 axle oil seal 1 - 100442 input shaft oil seal 1 - 100441 brake shaft oil seal All parts listed are still available from Toro, but I would suggest getting the seals from your local NAPA auto parts store using the cross reference in the transmission section. They are cheaper and better. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/42506-bearing-and-seal-cross-numbers/ File #3

What, No Chewing Gum!

Hey Doug, You probably also have the foot control for F/R motion to free up your right hand. I'm now working on a right knee pad control for the hyd lift to free up my left hand so I can dedicate it to donut and coffee control. Now if I could only find some snow to try it out on.

Looks like something NASA would send to the moon or Mars.

Yep, I use it to blow snow, to launch my boat and to make flapjacks.

Spray the snowblower & shoot with it to keep the snow from building up or sticking.

My custom cup holders on all my horses.....A Folgers coffee can.

You are right Steve. I am feeling better. My wife and I actually went out to our favorite restaurant tonight for our annual New Years Eve Maryland Crab Cake dinner. First time in real big boy pants, shirt and tie since the surgery. @paul600rr Good luck with your problem. Most times a loose shifter is a simple fix. Hope yours is as well.

Not that it really matters with a tractor and one towed implement. Slack in the couplers is what allows a train to get started. If the locomotive had to break them all loose at once the train would never move. But that slack is not always a bad thing.

Great site! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/featured-archive Steve, you'd have to hunt around for the exact link but you would enjoy the search! (somewhere in the first 15 pages...) I'm thinking about making one as soon as I figure out how it works! Or to get more serious: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1B8aRMx8UE

God that's a 55 gallon drum , how many windshields do you have to clean and how often.

I have had to replace the fuse block on three of my 520's with individual fuse holders. The heat genrated to melt a fuse will also damage the connectors and wires at the base of the fuse block. I've tried to get by with quick fixes, but none worked until I just cut out the fuse holder and started over. I don't think cleaning the connections is going to be a long term solution. I used solder and shrink wrap on one, but I had issues with an intermittent short, and had to re-do it. Two of mine were done with crimp-on butt joiners, and they have worked fine for two+ years The one that I had to revise is currently in the garage in Wausau. I redid the solder junctions with crimps just in time for the snow this week. Works fine, and plowed all over the neighborhood The fuse order, seat to headlights, is 30 (red/white)/25 (red/red)/15 (pink/pink) There may be a metal link in the bottom of the fuse block between the 30 and 25 amp fuse holder, eliminating the red wire into the 30amp slot

I just used a hand held mini-grinder (5") with a zipcut wheel to make the notch after drilling the 1/2" hole. For the other end of that same plate, I just drilled a 3/4" hole then cut right through the centerline of the hole to make it act like a saddle. All dimensions will be on the plans which will be uploaded soon. No special tools were used to make this, just a drill press, mini-grinder, and a welder. I do all measurements with a vernier caliper but a tape measure would work. Cleat

Actually, I find my fabrication skills getting better with age. I am 51 now and can do a lot of things better now than I could have 10 years ago.

Nice job! I wish I had developed that ability in my "wasted" years, lol.