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Drove by a local mower shop and saw this trailer full of junk "Big Box" plastic tractors. Sadly many of these don't look all that old... So, we Love our older tractors cause ...Wheel Horse made them to last and Kohler keeps them shaking!.

You could try plastic welding kits, but the whole thing is probably brittle. Whatever you do, make sure to drill a hole at the crack tip to stop its propagation.

They should park an empty trailer in from of the box stores so customer can throw them on after day of purchase. It would save a lot of frustration. In a box store and overhead the following conservation : Female customer : I want a riding mower that will handle a sloped yard , my lot is 40 ft x 100 ft. Box store drone: I think you would be happy with this Troy Bilt zero turn with a 50 inch deck. I walked away quickly shaking my head. Noticed the customer stomping out of box store a few minutes later. Just realized I did not finish my thoughts : We live in a time with disposal mowers , the heck with the customers wants or needs and the drones in box stores still work there. No more hardware stores , no true mower stores that sell something that has a useful life of more than a few years. Member of Groups like ours are a heck of a lot smarter than the majority of the citizens of this planet. Glad my parents were members of the greatest generation.

Kitty Hawk, NC; the Wright Brothers are first in flight!

I remember reading about your experience last year. My hospital has a new protocol to prevent infection. Two weeks before surgery you shower twice a day using anti-bacterial soap. On the night before surgery, you use a special prescription soap that they provide. I comes in an 8 oz bottle. Use half the night before, sleep on fresh laundered sheets, then use the other half of the bottle in the morning. As soon as I got to pre-op, an IV was started with a heavy duty antibiotic. Of course all of the operating room sanitary procedures were in place, then after surgery the IV antibiotics were continued for 24 hours. So far it has been a little over two weeks since surgery, I had the staples removed, and the doctor said that the wound is completely healed on the exterior. There were no signs of weeping or drainage, and I didn't even bleed when the staples were removed. So far, so good. I'm glad you are doing well now.

Hello I am new to this forum but have enjoyed my time here already. I bought a couple of new additions to go with my C111 last month and I need help identifying the model number of the one shown in the picture. The serial number plate has the following on it: 1st line- 10K801 02484, 2nd line-7351 or 7851 (hard to read as someone has sanded on it). I also could not find where any badge on the engine to identify them either. Is there a specific place to look on Kohler engines? I have not had time to inspect them much yet as I am finishing up school. All together I got an Auto 10 mostly complete, front mount blade, an extra set of rear tires/wheels, and an extra hydro rear end. Mainly I just wanted the blade but as it goes I could not pass up on the whole lot haha. I have never ran a hydro model so curiosity got the best of me too! I can get more info if needed once I get settled after the new year. Thanks in advance for any help! ~Colton

Sad, but most likely true... When I recently had work done to my '82 Kohler I was told by numerous people - "not worth it...just get a cheap knock off and throw it out when it dies in a few years..." Pathetic! Needless to say, she runs and shakes like a champ!

I'll be taking pics tonight and posting in the next day or two 14.0 is too high for a maintainer as the electrolyte starts to release oxygen and hydrogen above 13.6 to 13.8 volts. 14.0 is not bad for a pop top battery where you can top off the cells with water but a maintenance free or AGM battery will permanently loose electrolyte and capacity.

I asked this question around the show in PA this year and found a few guys that need this part. I have you on my list ! Brian, Steve, Vince, Dave I will not promise anything but if you have a complete !! Original or Restored 1955 RJ-35 and all you need is the brass Stop Button for the hood let me know. I have a LIMITED number of them and I would like for them to go to tractors that are complete and running. If your project is still in boxes you will not make the list. They will be for sale at a set price. This is something that will not happen tomorrow, because each button is a little different in patina matching buttons with tractors will take time. I would like to have this complete before the next show in PA. I will get a list together and compare it with the parts I have. I may ask you to send me a picture of your tractor to see if it meets the requirements. Please send your info to me at: rsgreco@embarqmail.com or a PM through the Wheel Horse Junkies page on Facebook Thank you Ron Greco Big-Game

My son purchased a house a back in July. Between work and helping him with some remodeling, etc it sure has take my up Horse time! There was a large Cedar Elm tree that had grown to the point that the trunk was actually rubbing the house. The tree trimming companies wanted +/- $2000 to remove it. So we rented a snorkel lift for $200 for the weekend (2 days). Since the tree was over the house we had to cut and lower it down piece by piece. It took us 2 full days and the lift sure was the worth every penny and was definitely the safe way to do it, (we only damaged 1 roof shingle! We saved the bottom trunk of the tree to dry and possible have sawn into a fireplace mantel .

Amazing.

Glad to hear you are on the mend... Anyone notice that if you put the right X-ray on the left of the other one, then rotate it 90 degrees counterclockwise, it spells "WH"? Just sayin'

Heres a link to when I did mine... http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/57982-dennys-free-suburban-work/?page=2 I got a few good pics in there of curling them out. Best bet is to see @Jake Kuhn might have evething you need and about the same price as getting everthing yourself... even less if your time is as valuable as mine. If the axles are scored consider doing the world famous @Racinbob axle flip. Shifter boots are on ebay for 10 bucks. Steve's ground down carriage bolt to remove blind hole bearings does actually work...if ya don't mind sacrificing a perfectly good wood chisel to get them started! Going thru these trannys is easy and fun.

Coincidence? Today is it's birthday!

Glad to here everything is going great . The less pain pills the better ( I.m.o. ) keep moving . Hope to to see you in June . With my plates and screws in the back of my throat , I get the worst brain freeze . Let's start a titanium club registry , maybe get a picture of some of use together at the show .

M&M? I always thought they were W&Ws, must have had them upside down.

This is the same anti-infection procedure Mrs. K used prior to her fusion of 3.4.and5 and it was 100% effective. Her surgeon wasn't quite as good of a machinist as yours though. One of the self tapping screws stripped out and he had to put another in beside it. Before the surgery, I asked him if he drilled and tapped for the screws. His comment was ,no, the screws are self drilling and tapping. I wonder if The Machinists Handbook should be one of the surgeons textbooks?

Hmmm... You might be on to something there...All I need is another WH? I'll check with the wife and get on it...

Not being a smart A , SylvaLake you have toooooooooooooo much time on your hands. Get another horse to keep you busy. Or the local paper may have a front Page headline. " Local Man loses his mind , all he see are W & H ". Not one knows what is going on in his brain. A tumor is suspected, he is being transported to the Mayo Clinic immediately .

Hey Bob I'm sorry I just noticed this post but I haven't spent much time on here or with my 'Horses lately. I'm glad that you're on the mend but keep a close eye out for infection. I had a laminectomy in the same area last Dec. 8 and within 12 hours was walking and actually climbed steps. A week after coming home the incision started weeping and next thing I knew I was back in the hospital with a raging fever and a bacterial infection. Had another surgery to clean everything out. The 2nd surgery really kicked my butt. Spent the Christmas holidays in the hospital and lost 25 lbs. and most of my strength in 2 weeks. They said it might take a year or longer to recover. Made it to the show last year but was really dragging. Feeling a lot better and finally getting some ambition. Other than that my back in almost like new and almost pain free.

You DID tell them to pack sand didn't you Sylvan???

Looking good Jim. She will be a beauty when you get her all painted and buffed out. I'm glad I didn't restore it as it looks like it was used and abused. You're doing a good job - keep up the good work.

Figured I might as well udate this thread altho ain't much to update as one doesn't get much done when one's arm is in a sling. Thats ok as long as it's ready for PA this summer--- finnished tranny oiled up to @Shynons specifcations.

I just added this REO Wheel Horse snow thrower to my collection. A supervisor at my workplace who knew that I was into Wheel Horse tractors and owned a few (11 to be exact) offered it to me for free. He said the engine is not original and does not run. He was going to set it out curb side for the taking. So I rescued it. It is in surprisingly great shape for a 40-50 year old unit. I understand Wheel Horse manufactured REO equipment from 1963 until about 1973. But other than that, I know very little about what I actually adopted here. There are no S/N or model number tags on the unit unless hidden somewhere.

Just came across this. Here is the catalog page for the loader Kwik-Way built for Sears to sell in their catalog as a genuine Craftsman accessory. This is the Sears item that still has parts support on the website and the one from which I ordered a replacement bucket. I'm pretty sure this is circa 1992. If you run the west egg inflation calculator http://www.westegg.com/inflation/ That works out to over $4,300 in today's money. more stock photos of the Sears unit from Google.

I've repair these a number of times with just glue. the one on my 195 was in bad shape when i started with it. I did redeveloped one crack a couple years ago but it has held up well and I did it in 07. I'll have see if I still have the glue and get the name. Its a special type just for this application. It was busted up around the lift levers the worst and now you can't hardly tell. the frustrating part was getting paint to stick. The OE paint likes to peel when the new paint is applied. Took 7 or 8 repaints to have it come out acceptable.

If you take the hubs off, take a screw driver and ball peen hammer and tap off the cap seal. When you look at the axle and housing, you will see the end of the bronze bearing. It should look the same size all the way around...approx 1/16" with no side to side or up and down movement of the axle. If that bearing is thinner at any point, you will have a little axle movement and a new seal will probably leak. Time to open trans. Flushing is not imperative, but it makes for a much nicer, cleaner job to get as much old oil and water out as possible. When taking apart, have the input side of trans in a vise...take off the brake shaft side. Take it apart in reverse order from the video. When you get to the mushroom gear and differential, you need to lift the mushroom gear a little bit to get the bolt tabs on the casting around and above that gear. Then you can snake that casting up and off. Be careful, those bolt tabs can be fragile!!! I take a good, thin blade, slot screwdriver to find the weakest and thinnest part of the bronze bearing. Tap the driver between the bearing and housing to rip and bend the bronze bearing...usually just a little and then it will pull out with a needle nose pliers. To place the new bronze bearing, I use a piece of 2 x 4 and ball peen hammer to tap the bearing in until flush. I find I have to sand or hone the bearing once placed to get a nice fit for the axle and the same for the differential carriage. It should go in and turn easy, otherwise the transmission may bind up when you bolt it together in the end.

They done very good, I was more or less comparing the videos vs discussion... you can talk to someone about something vague and pick up a few things. or you can do it yourself (and sometimes make mistakes) and really get a good understanding. The videos give great understanding to what's going on!

wow just found this on line, never knew there was a seal for this Points Pushrod O-Ring and Diaphragm Seal. For Kohler engines with a 3/16" diameter points pushrod. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K161/K160, K181, K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Prevents crankcase oil from contaminating ignition points. O-ring installs on points pushrod, and seal slides over pushrod, and diaphragm is held in place by points bracket. Seal made of clear, silicone rubber. IMPORTANT: Before installing seal, apply clean motor oil or automotive grease inside seal lip or on points pushrod for lubrication and to prevent premature wear of the seal. Return to previous page or paragraph. (Choose to use one or the other below, no need to use both.) Neoprene Rubber O-Ring. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling. Diaphragm Seal. OEM Kohler part # OEM Kohler part # 220074-S. $5.20 each, plus shipping & handling.

Here ya go... if you have another tractor, you could put the rear end of your suburban on blocks and use a long belt, rope, or pantyhose to go around your input pulley and the engine pulley on your other tractor...thus spinning the trans when flushing. I like to use diesel...I would not use plain gas. Those axle seals are hard to come by now and are only available from TORO.. Jake Kuhn is selling gaskets and bearing kits...TORO no longer has the gaskets (you would have to cut your own)...Jake's are laser cut professional, just like TORO's were. Check out the thread above and the videos and let us know what you think. Send Jake Kuhn a PM to find out what he has. Here is a video of bench testing / flushing set up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugBHWjUi8LU

HAHAHA. Is that what that thing is for? I always wondered what to put in there. I didn't get any more work done on the loader last night, spent too much time fiddling with the pellet stove, but got that done at least. By the time that was finished, there was just enough time to watch the finale of Fargo from this week (awesome show again this season). I took a look at things I'm waiting for shipping on as well as what's left on the shopping list. Its looking great. I'm waiting on the u-bolts, some barbed hose fittings and the pump pulley I just bought this morning on SurplusCenter.com. That leaves: A to be determined drive belt around the size of a B44 belt for $4 A 2-gallon jug of hydraulic fluid for $17 4 Cans of Black Gloss Implement Spray Paint $18 Checking those items into the budget puts me at $1,100.00 all-in including the brand new bucket. Not too shabby.

That is one fine looking 857. Even the seat looks great. Was this tractor in storage before you owned it? You do not see many in that condition a 1967!!!!!! Do you know how many P/Owners they where? Well enjoy the ride Gary B..

I've seen people use the kits for repairing car bumpers. drill a hole at the end of the crack first and ad a piece under the crack at the same time

I currently have a transmission ready for reassembly but was trying to understand the best way to avoud this rail issue with the two different sets of rails I have. Now it's clear thanks to you. Great videos.

We`ve all been doing it. Does this mean us horse guys are easily amused?

Sorry to read this Russ, I wish you a speedy recovery and hope you will continue to be present on RS!

They come off fairly easy so you can slosh it around on the bench. I use an electric motor to spin them. You can remove one of the lower bolts holding the side plate on to drain it. Easiest to remove the shifter and fill through that big hole. Just replacing the seals will not last long if the axle bearings are worn. They are just bronze bushings so they are usually worn. You should not be able to move those axles at all except for a tiny bit of in and out. If they have some play then the new seals will not hold.

These transmissions don't have a drain plug so they can be somewhat of a bear to flush. Our resident tranny pro @stevasaurus will be along shortly to chime in on how best to do it. Axle seals are readily available and very easy to install but the hubs must be remove. See the above pinned thread for part numbers and sources. BTW if the axle seals are leaking it can mean the outboard bushings are worn but that means the tranny has to split. Not to worry lots of good folks here to help with that too.

I agree, I have never met you, but don't give up, you would be surprised what a determined individual can accomplish.

857 Horse I really like the Script on the Silverado and the 57 chevy belair style hood crest on the tailgate.

Subframe DONE. Welding DONE. Heres a shot of my last bead: The subframe fits great, I do need to order the big mamma-jamma u-bolts that will clamp the subframe to the rear axle. One thing that kinda bugs me is that I have to remove the red plastic bumper cover while having the loader mounted, otherwise the cross tube in the main boom will just graze it. In the Kwikway owner manual it says the bumper cover needs to be removed, I just figured it was so the front diagonal brace brackets had more clearance. Oh well. Not a deal breaker, it just looks better with the red cover on, I think. I suppose if I welded the subframe up with the uprights maybe an inch farther forward it would have cleared, but that would have monkeyed with the center of gravity and made the setup just slightly more tippy. Here are the photos that show the frame and bucket lined up/mounted.

seeing these 2 tractors looking so fresh and new, really makes me was to do that to my 854, and make it look like it just came from the factory. I've gone though it pretty thoroughly and it's running and shifting good. But it looks old and used, which it is I'm just at a quandary of what to do

Yep gotta love the 753's with duals, head lights and everything else you can throw on one! Here is my custom dually 753! Dual wheels, dual mufflers, dual hitches, HL5 head lights, 8 ball shifter, 1961 footrests, seat back rest, 60 lb front weight, factory mint seat cushion and I just added the one of a kind wind up key on the back this year! This is a high revving, romping machine!

Personally I consider clean hands a plus for a surgeon, just funny that way.

You can learn a lot on this site, sometimes at the cost of some ribben`. Just ask Steve about dem bears

The only year all these models were made is 1989. Garry

Takes me so long I just decided to leave everything set up from now on. Actually it makes me sore doing that work. Marvin

Kentucky to Connecticut - $150

Well guess I shouldn't have had that extra big ole bowl of dumb f%*# this morning...here was my problem, can you spot it?? Without twisting her neck. ..sorry