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I would normally post a picture of one of the tractors but figured after finally finishing this barn after almost two years of work I thought this would be my best submission. Hey... if you look close there is a horse there

Hello , I just bought my first toro a 97 312-8. I posted on a few Facebook pages trying to get a value before buying but had no luck. I got a snowthrower,rear weights,cart and tire chains. Here is a list of known problems. Choke cable stuck. I have to pull the clutch pedal back to get moving. One blade hub is bad and has been cutting with only two blades. Motor mount bolts loosened up. Missing an adjustment bolt from deck arm to rear deck wheels (metal wire replacing it) I believe Thats it I paid 100.00.

Just thought I would pass on this info I am redoing the 607 that I have the dash needed a new decal from Terry. I noticed that one of the plug button was very rusty. I went to three hardware stores with no luck every one said ohh we don`t sell those anymore.. So you could not see it on brushed aluminum any way if new. So I painted it black. Good enough. I cut between the black and silver this is the best dash that I have done to date. Trying to do it in one shot is hard to line up and you get bubbles because of the one piece. I have done many of these. Also I have the deck on the old 1965 Springfield. Boy it makes you appreciate how well W/Horse is built compared to this tractor. Hope you enjoy the picks. Enjoy the ride. Gary B....

Well Mike, here it is. Surgery went well. More reports later. Bob PS no pictures per your request.

The 401 was painted by a previous owner about 7 or 8 years ago from what I know. I've traced it back that far. It's a rattle can job. Looks pretty good for what it is, except gas stains around the filler and a spot under the carb where the paint lifted from a carb bowl leak. Down the road I may strip it down and re-do it. The white bits are Antique White powder coat. The pictures make it look brighter than it really is. On my other project I'm using Dupont Nason urethane. Color is IH-50 International Harvester. As well as the deck for this tractor and the deck for my 867. That's another story... LOL Reassembly is a xxxxx. The deck double pulley was damaged and I didn't want to spend the money for the "correct" one so I found an aftermarket two piece pulley and assembled it. Didn't realize until this point in assembly that the pulley is 1/4" too tall. Double belts are pinched and won't turn. I'm currently waiting for UPS with a NOS double pulley so I can finish the deck and move on to the 401 deck. Please excuse the greasy finger prints, not quite photo-shoot ready. This is my 867 deck. It's a RM367 model.

Well.....The parts are back from powder coat and my 401 has new shoes. Still waiting on the tire paint though. Seems they took my order and somebody forgot to ship it. Should be here this week. Love the way the front tires fit these suburbans. These wheels are actually the yellow and rusty ones above.

I found them at Lowes. One is a 3/4", the other 7/8". They had gobs of them in the gray drawers. They are Hillman brand. The problem with electrical is that the smallest conduit knockout (1/2") measures 7/8".

Good to hear, Bob. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that tasteful photos of cute nurses are probably OK.

I've been on WHs all my life I reckon, starting out at home on Dad's tractors when I was a kid. One time I coasted his '73 12 HP manual in nuetral, down the blacktop to make a turn on to our street when I was about 12-13. It's probably about a 15 or 20 degree slope and at least 1000-1500 feet long. I don't know how fast I was going but I went over on 2 wheels trying to make the corner and ended up in the neighbors yard completely out of control. Never tried that again. Dad woulda killed me if I'd wrecked his tractor. Another time, my brother was mowing with same tractor and he had a broken forearm in a cast, he was about 11-12 I'd say. He stopped with front wheels against a concrete retaining wall in the back yard and he was going to back up. His foot slipped off the clutch before getting it out of gear and over he went, about a 5' drop! The tractor hit on its front wheels and went over on the hood/steering wheel and seat trapping him under it. No one was home but Mom at the time. She heard the crash and came running out, so did the next door neighbor and his son-in-law. The smoke was rolling and the deck blades were spinning she said. The three of them lifted it off of him and thank you, Lord he was not hurt, not a scratch. First thing my brother said was, "Dad is gonna kill me for wrecking his tractor." He was so small he didn't get hurt we figured. The seat and steering wheel worked like roll bars I reckon. It bent both tie rods and crushed the steering wheel. Dad replaced those and took the dents out of the hood with a wooden block and a ball peen hammer. The front wheels were turned in opposite directions, I'll never forget the look of that!

The electrical dept here at my work has tons of those plugs all different sizes. We use them to plug holes in our boxes in the occasion a hole is drilled wrong or a change is made. Maybe try an electrical parts supplier or I just looked on Mcmaster Carr and they carry them also but you have to have an account to buy from them. Your work does look real nice though

ok. mystery solved. there are (3) holes in that lift arm. you guys never said the top top hole. I had it in the center hole which was no good. Now its where its supposed to be and works great. with NO spring. thanks for the advice. Glenn

I just returned from my second visit to the crash site in Shanksville, Pa. During my first visit the museum was just being designed. It is now finished and I recommend this to be put on every ones to do list. It is a somber but inspiring experience to read the events leading up to the brave action these passengers took to crash this plane in the middle of unpopulated mountains of Somerset County, instead of allowing the hijacking terrorists to complete their mission of crashing it into the Capital in Washington, DC. A lot of tears were shed today while listening to recordings of several final phone calls that were made by the passengers to their loved ones. The crash site and memorial park is located about 60 miles SE of Pittsburg, Pa.

100 bucks?! you're a horse thief

Glenn..... We gotta get that problem taken care of. I pledge One Dollar to the Let's Get Glenn A Cab Fund........ Anyone else?

I dont have a cab, so I dont have any cab lights. But I wish I had some kind of a light mounted to a magnet, to put on the hood, or the snowblower chute or somewhere. Did you ever notice that the hood lights ars obscured by the tall chute snowblower. The lights let you see the back of the chute, but not much light past the chute. so thats what I need, a magnet light to mount on the hood. Btw, Dave, nice lights on your new rig, cant wait to see some action shots, green or not. Lol Glenn

Prayers being said, to a speedy recovery Bob. Glenn

Amen

Agreed, where at least two or three agree in Jesus name it shall be done!

Here ya go Steve. http://www.nps.gov/flni/index.htm

I drive right by there on the way to and back from the Big Show every year. I see the sign...will have to stop there this year. We all know we are going to die...these people knew it would be today. RIP and never be forgot. Ed, do have a link for there??

Picked up this early 1955 RJ35, its missing a bunch of original parts but for the price it was a good deal IMO. Indicators of an early 55 RJ35: gas tank stand, no front axle stops, no support brace for the veri-dive arm and hood provision for the brass kill switch. The plan right now is to blow it apart and go through it. As the original hood is nice but not perfect... I have been toying with making another fiberglass RJ hood... As always the build will be on my Youtube Channel... https://www.youtube.com/user/VinsGN

Got the twins ready for the snow, but where is it?

So my son and I got the new 702 running yesterday and took her out for a ride. She's got a late model 5HP and funky pulley sizing. Runs a bit faster than stock. 1st is like 2nd would normally be and 2nd like 3rd. 3rd kind of like an overdrive. My son took her out first, looking back probably not the best idea. He took her around the yard running her paces without much trouble. Came back around and said, "she runs a bit fast". I'm thinking cool, my turn. I hop on and take off in first at low throttle. Ok, good. Stop and shift into 2nd. Ride about 30 feet. ok enough of that. Stop and shift into third and take off about 1/4 throttle. She immediately rears up and takes off. Here I am riding a wheelie across the driveway holding on for dear life. I lean forward and hit the clutch and she calms down...lands on all four and I catch my breath. I can hear my son laughing over the sound of the engine. So now I'm off the paved driveway and in the grass. Still in third and 1/4 throttle, I slowly let out the clutch and damn if she don't do it again. This time, I can't save it. I pull myself forward by the steering wheel and try to hit the brake, but it's too late. As I pull myself forward, the steering wheel shaft pops out of the gear under the hood and the entire shaft and wheel slide up toward me. The tractor stands on end and I slide off the back on my ass. Luckily I was on the soft wet sod. The tractor is in front of me standing on end still running. Rear hitch stuck in the mud, tires spinning and digging holes in the yard. What I learned from this....Make sure steering shafts are correctly fixed on new buys before riding. Careful riding WH tractors with goofy pulley diameters. Never allow your teenage kid to take the first ride on a new old tractor. Wear a pillow strapped to your back next time. OH, and thank God for rear hitches or she would have been on top of me. I'm not sure if it's the pulley sizing or the rear duals, but this thing is just dangerous. Question for those of you with duals, do the duals make the tractor drive that much different? Even in first, if not careful, this thing is a wheel stander. I'm sure putting the heavy Kohler back on will help, but man!

Glade to hear it went well. Now focus on what needs to be done to recover!!!

I have done many accidental wheelies on motorcycles, with me hanging on to the handlebars running behind trying to catch up. Once I did it over a speed bump, and the bike kept coming up until it was straight up and I was standing on the pegs, staring into the headlights, somehow playing with the throttle to keep it from going over, or slamming down. It was a Kawasaki 750 LTD, which had extended forks like a chopper, and I was afraid if it slammed down they would snap off. Went across 2 more speed bumps standing on end, and finally it slowly lowered down to the ground, and I stopped and waited to stop shaking. Can't believe I didn't get hurt The closest I have come on a tractor was when I bought a Commando 8, my first experience with a tractor with the hinged rear fender. I saw this little switch on the shifter tunnel that said Caution, but everything else was worn off. I thought, I wonder what that does.... Let out the clutch, it did a little wheelie, the seat tipped back, but somehow I was able to pull myself back down with the steering wheel. Suddenly I understood exactly why that sticker said caution, and what the lever was for.

That was well worth the wait, you did a great job.

Good lookin' there.

It has been almost a year now and I've been remiss with the updates. The transmission is back together... Along with the rest of the sheet metal... Just a few minor parts to go including Terry's decals.... A new set of Carlisle's ... A year or so later the old girl is back on her feet.... The heat shield and belt guard held things up a bit but it finally came together.

I've gotta move to where... tall chute blowers are $150.

And that top hole is a booger to get that pin in. At least for me it has been. I had it mounted on 2 different tractors over the years and it was a struggle. For me anyway.

I used to get overspray everywhere. But I saw online at one of my wood working sites a simple solution. A cheap spray booth. I got some 4 mil plastic and 8 pieces of 2 x 2. Cut a notch in the 2 x 2s at the center, about an inch wide and 1/2 deep. Staple plastic (on the notched side) to four of the 2 x 2 and attach notched side up to your ceiling. You can use a piece of wire laid in the notch but better is a velcro strip to secure the plastic when you roll it up. On the bottom cut the plastic to length (a little longer than the distance to the floor.) and staple the other 2 x 2s. This weighs the plastic down and when done with the spraying use these to roll up the plastic. When not in use it's up against the ceiling. USE a respirator! the stuff can get thick in there or ventilate it. Oh and if there is a garage door opener be sure to un plug it, if someone comes home unexpectedlyyou don't want to find out what will happen.

Dear Lord, Bob Maynard will be undergoing delicate spinal surgery tomorrow morning. Please guide the surgeon's hands to be steady and effective to do the task at hand , and not create any further damage We pray against any infection or complications. Calm the heart of Bob's family. Give Bob your peace so his body can heal under the best conditions. In the name of Jesus, bless Bob to be healthier after this procedure than before. Lord allow this temporary trial to bring this family closer to you and each other. When Bob is coming out of surgery, let the side effects be minimal. Work a miracle in this whole situation and bless it from beginning to end. Thank you Lord for your blessing on this family. We praise you as we know we are in good hands- the very hands of God. In Jesus name, we thank you for each day. Amen.

Best of luck to you Bob. I had a lamonectomy on L5 about 8 years ago. Hope things go well for you.

Bob, wishing you nothing but the best! Good luck, no more hard hats!! Prayers and thoughts have been sent.

The floating ball hydrometer doesn't inspire confidence. You could buy them for 99 cents way back when and and I can't imagine they are any more reliable now after 40 years as they were when they were new. Hydrometers with a glass float tend to be the most accurate consumer level product. Hydrometers are THE most accurate way of checking a lead acid battery state of charge. Again, 12.4 volts is only about 80 % charged. This does not mean the battery has any real CAPACITY left, it just suggests the remaining viable plate area in the cells is at an 80% charge. A LOAD TEST will tell you if your battery has sufficient CAPACITY to make it through the winter. Voltage is not a good indicator or battery CAPACITY. The 0.5 amp indication issue - when you switched the charger to the trickle setting, the internal wiring of the battery charger applies a lower voltage to the battery. The trickle setting voltage output may be around 12+ volts where as the 10 amp setting may be around 15 volts. A lower output voltage from the charger can no longer force a higher current thru the battery so the charger ammeter reads a much lower reading. What you see is normal action from an old school charger. If you had access to a 200 amp starter/ charger, setting the charger to the 200 amp position would raise the charger voltage to over 20 volts! This higher voltage force 20+ amps thru the battery would take the electrolyte in a small battery to the boiling point very quickly. Plates would heat up in the battery and plates would warp, shorting out plates and maybe even several cells within the battery. Battery Voodoo - once a battery is overcharged, lead flecks are ejected from the plates and settle into the bottom of the battery case. This lead never returns to the plates and is CAPACITY is permanently lost in the battery. Severely discharging a battery below 10 volts causes the lead paste on the plates to loosen from the support grids and this also permanently removes CAPACITY from the battery. Constant overcharging boils off electrolyte and exposes the lead paste and grids to air. Sulfur ions in the sulfuric acid leave the acid and become a crystallized solid on the lead paste. The sulfur crystals are not able to return to the electrolyte and redissolve to return the sulfuric acid to its original specific gravity. A loss in specific gravity results in a permanent loss in chemical activity in the battery - you loose CAPACITY in the battery. If you let the battery self discharge in the winter months, the electrolyte deposits sulfur on the lead plates. The electrolyte becomes more like water than sulfuric acid and the water can freeze on cold nights. Freezing the electrolyte warps the grid plates that contain the lead paste. If the plates are broken and large chucks of conductive plate bridge between plates in a cell, you short out a cell and now have a 10 volt battery at best - permanently. A lot of failure modes are possible - and each mode has the word PERMANENT attached to it. Sorry about the length of the post but I used to spec and torture test battery performance for medical devices. Amazing what can be learned from the manufacturer's reps when you pump a few beers into them.

and a smaller transmission pulley - it picks up a lot of water! sure is Mike! sometimes it has to be done Cheers Neil - it was 60mph winds yesterday! I think I might end up making a habit of it this winter

I hear and appreciate your point. counterpoint (from a guy who values time more than money) $27 / 200CCA = 13 cents per CCA - it will die at an inconvenient time $50 / 420CCA = 12 cents per CCA -it will also die the same inconvenient death - just at a later date. So if we factor out the cost and both will die the same type of death, we are left with "inconvenience factor". This is fully within the operator's (your) control. Load test the battery before winter. Keep the tractor in good running condition so you don't have to crank the engine for several minutes until the battery depletes. Winter is here. Just watch as the electrical section fills up with with slow crank, no start, clickety clickety solenoid, ignition connector wiring and dirty points issues. I view batteries like I view snow tires. I'm not looking to squeeze the last drop of life out of either one. I monitor their condition and performance and proactively replace them before they put the operator in an inconvenient or dangerous situation. and if you don't see the charge rate decreasing over the hours, the battery is not absorbing the charge current and chemically converting it to stored charge. the battery is probably getting very warm as the charger current is being dissipated as heat. heated electrolyte evaporates, killing the battery even further. never leave an "old school" type charger connected to a battery for more than 10 -12 hours.

Thanks Steve and Jason, I too feel honored to be selected for this years calendar. My 704 is special to me and to see it in the calendar

Wow! I'm honored to have my first project make it into your calendar. Can't wait to order one!

Just one little over-site, You didn't make June 24 & 25 red letter days for the BIG SHOW!

Here's my setup.

One of my younger cousins also had a real appreciation for gravity. My uncle had purchased a JD (just cant say that) 110 with a cart and figured there wouldn't be any harm in letting his ten year old son take the other three children for a ride; after all the farm was on a private road. My cousin got a bit tired of putting around at two or three MPH so he drove to the top of the hill and pushed in the clutch; don't know how fast that thing went but he tells me the tires on the cart full of kids were bouncing off the ground. When he let out on the clutch to slow down the 110 and cart went into the ditch and dumped the whole bunch harmlessly into the hay field. My uncle knew then that this boy was going to be a handful, he was correct!

To every member of this incredible group. Thank you so much for your prayers and well wishes. I am truly humbled and grateful to have friends like you.

" Lets Roll!" heroes, every one of them.

Looks like a great place to "take a leisurely ride"! Mike........

Here is the Stedman Stables

It's not the duallys, you just need a tombstone up front.