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Brought this one home last night. Pretty solid tractor minus the correct engine, seat, belt guard. Actually bought this one as a home to a Kohler I have sitting on a shelf in my garage. It will be a "802" with electric G/S. Will go back to original push button ignition as well. Deestone Tri Ribs on the front and maybe a stack? That's a Tecumseh overhead valve 5 horse in there now. I will be needing a correct belt guard and square pan seat if anyone has one. Also-is the no name amp gauge correct for this? I've always seen SW gauges in WH. And-Is the seat spring wrong for this tractor? I know the "riser" is an add on, but it looks like the seat spring should have been as tall as the fenders. I think they have the wrong seat spring.

I spent some time in the garage getting my new 314 into winter mode. Added 50# cast iron outer wheel-weights and cast iron pipe flanges to the inside of the rear wheels for about 64#'s each wheel. A brand new battery and a 48" plow up front and she's done! My GT-1600 will get its winter dud's on next weekend.....then its just sit back and wait for the white stuff1 Mike..........

With Thanksgiving coming up, and some of you going out of town, I figure that this is as good a time as any to let you all know about my upcoming surgery. I debated putting this in "Bumps & Bruises" since it is sort of related, but I don't think it is going to qualify me for the Red Hard Hat award at next years show. You know what they say about being careful how you lift things? Well for 65 years I ignored that. Not to mention, rolling tractors over on myself. Now I am paying the price. On Monday 11/30, I will be undergoing lumbar spinal fusion surgery. I have had this planned and scheduled since August. To be more specific, the process is called "L3 thru L5 decompression and instrumented fusion". In layman's terms, I am having a laminectomy (the removal of the facets and boney part of the back of the lower spine to relieve pressure on the spinal cord, then the bone will be grafted to the vertebrae with titanium screws, rods and wires installed to stabilized the vertebrae while they fuse together. The recovery is long, but having watched @953 nut go through the same surgery back in June, and be back in the saddle again, I am very optimistic. Thanks Dick for all of your encouragement. My VENDOR store will be closing on Saturday 11/28 and will reopen when I feel up to it again. Okay, enough said.

Here is a great memory to take with you...:)

I got myself a plow for this coming winter season. It wasn't pretty so I decided to clean it up and paint it. Then I decided to Pimp it out with an electric actuator for angling the blade. Works pretty nice now but we'll see if it can stand up to the potential beating it might see. IMG_1441.3gp

Nice pictures, keep all that snow west of here, we got a couple inches. So that's it for this year, I'm putting the deck back on!!! Going to mow snow this year!!! I wonder if anyone has tried that??? It would work good as long as it not wet an heavy, I think, Lol

Thanks Ed I got the actuator from amazon, here is the link http://www.amazon.com/WINDYNATION-Actuator-Maximum-Mounting-Brackets/dp/B012EFMPRE/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1447244536&sr=8-9&keywords=linear+actuator+4+inch+stroke. Planning to control it with a momentary toggle switch similar to what did with the electric lift kit for manual tractors, amazon has let me down with that one though it was supposed to be here last Wednesday. The mounting turned out easier then I expected. I utilized the brackets that came with the actuator and only had to drill 1 new hole in the plow frame, which is the fixed end. The other end, the one that pivots, I utilized the existing hole on the top side of where the 1/2 rod of the original linkage used to attach. I used a 5/16 bolt with a series of washers and nuts to get it up high enough to clear when turned and used bronze washers on top and below the bracket to aid in the pivoting. Red the actuator is supposed to be able to withstand harsh conditions so I expect it to hold up fine in that regard. My concern is the fact that the actuator is whats going to hold the angle of the plow, I had to drop the lock pin. Its a nice feature because I now have infinite angle positioning instead of the 3 fixed positions but it started to creep into my head if there's potential of back-driving the actuator enough to break it? John it is pretty heavy duty for its size with over 300lb static force and I have a feeling with the way I mounted it utilizing the brackets it came with(which aren't heavy duty) that the brackets will fail before the actuator....hopefully at least Doug and everyone else I will take and post some close up photos of the actuator and mounting. I never seem to think of my forum thread making while im working so I never step back to take the photos that will help tell the story.

I like the use of the flanges for weights. That should be pretty good!

Ive been quiet on here for a while. The tractors have been pushed aside for most of this year, too busy with home projects and other things that are pulling at me. Only just recently have been working on a tractor or two. Saturday, i spent some time fixing a hydro system leak on #1, the hard line (pressure) that runs from the lower part of the pump to the lift valve was rusty and damp right where it runs along the top of the frame rail. I also found a crack right on the last bend before it gets to the pump. So got that done and today i had some time to finally put on some redesigned decals that Terry printed up for me about 2 months ago. Some of these were for the hydro 416 (#1) and some were for the 8 speed (#3). I haven't spent any time with the 8 speed since the Mo. meet and greet last year, more than 12 months ago. It had been put away straight off the trailer (drove home in the rain) so it needed some tlc before i could do the decals. i felt ashamed of myself after spending so much time building this one and putting so many hours into it and then i just left it like this all year. I know its only a tractor but usually i look after things so much better than this. Anyway, enough crying, heres some pics of the cleaned up 416-8 and the new design decals....... almost forgot about these ones too..... Terry made these two up for me must have been 12 month ago and have never got around to putting them on. Thanks for all your work making them right, Terry. @Vinylguy The air cleaner one only ever gets seen if you have the lid off, but there was one there originally, so i wanted to put one back there. The engine spec decal has all the correct numbers as the original and finishes it off.....

Good luck, Bob! Remember what I said on Saturday, call anytime! I should have Terry come up with a "Titannium Club" logo! There seems to be a number of members that can claim membership.

a few clicks in paint.net with a forum photo

Like I mentioned at the show, my dad went through similar surgery last spring - he got the bar(s) and screws. He came out well and followed what the doctor told him. He was off script meds in a few days. Good luck and wishing you the best! Fortunately my 552 has a strong Tecumseh so I can pull around what you'd normally be pushing

The other guys summed it up pretty well. I had original paint and wet sanded it with 320. Wash/dry/clear coat. Lasts for years. I used this tractor on a regular basis. It was just hauling a firewood cart Sunday! Had the seat resewn too, but that's not in the photo.

here are pictures of a recently bought 854

When the temperature gets to half my age it is still above freezing!

I enjoyed doing some night plowing this past Saturday! Ok I am ready for spring now!

The teal and white looks great.

Prayer has been sent for you Bob and I will keep you in my thoughts. God speed to you and we all hope for a speedy recovery. If I can get to the show next year I look forward to seeing you again.

Best Wishes Bob. I'm certain you will be back on a horse soon. It's been 15 months since Mrs K had the same decompression and fusion of L3-L5 and 12 months since my son Mike had his crushed leg/knee rebuilt with bands, straps and screws. They are both doing well although both were a pretty long recovery.... about 3 months for Nan and 7 months for Mike. So listen to the therapists and doctors. It is amazing what they can do. Looking forward to seeing you at the SHOW.

You know we'll all be thinking of you Bob! Take care of yourself, and don't hesitate to let us know if you need anything.

I thought I would do this to you now, rather then wait until it might hurt to laugh. I spent some of the day going back and looking at the 2010 show pictures...great pictures and memories. Good luck my friend. Question:: Am I going to be taller then you now??

Focusing mostly on all things loader and subframe related, I've sort of neglected counter weight for when this project is complete. The 5xi loader manual indicates that 280lbs is required as counter weight. Rather build a ballast box from scratch, I figured out a way to get a dual-use ballast box solution. I have a Quiet Collector Leaf Vac for my 522xi and that vacuum, came with a heavy duty rear quick attach mounting bracket that looks something like an upside down 3 pt hitch. A couple years ago I welded up a custom receiver hitch that bolts onto the rear vac mounting bracket with (4) 3/8" bolts. When I do fall cleanup, I just remove the receiver hitch. Here is a photo of the tractor with the hitch and without: I plan on using one of these 500# rated cargo racks to hold as many cinder blocks as I can fit. That might be as few a (6) 8" x 16" cinder blocks at 28 pounds each. So that gets me to 168 pounds, and the cargo rack itself weights 32 pounds. If I can't find convenient sized heavier construction blocks, that just leaves me with 80 extra pounds to come up with to meet the counterweight requirement. That may be made up with a set of 55# wheel weights if the price is right. When the cargo rack isn't on the tractor its available to use on our van for trips to my in-laws cabin in central Wi. That's a win-win.

Bob, these words of prayer were a comfort to me prior to my surgery and I want you to share them with you. We all look forward to seeing you at the Big Show in June and wish you a speedy recovery.

All our prayers Bob...and you better be able to wiggle your toes after surgery.

It would be a 1973 model....Just a period of time when Wheel Horse changed the number/name thing so 30-40-50 years down the road everyone would ask ....Why....

Me thinks the fumes from the R & R have more to do with warding off the little bugs than drinking it! Kinda like a citronella candel!

My 1045 for your consideration

Yeah... and they're red.

US marine Corp

So this explains why I don't have any wheelhorse plow stuff, kind of. I mean, it's always a good idea to have more wheelhorse stuff, but these should clear some snow just fine. From left to right: 99 1500 Silverado extended cab daily driver, 5.3L just rolled over 60k miles, put the new cutting edge on today, last resort plow rig this year 01 2500 HD Silverado, 6.0L, 9'2" Boss V plow, 16' swing wing rear plow, 10 cu. ft. Salt Dogg TGS06 spreader, under hood clutch driven hydraulic pump with electric switch controls 00 K3500 from down south, 5.7L, old 8' boss blade with a new cutting edge waiting to go on this week, custom front mount, 7'5" rear plow, belt driven fisher pump with in-cab spool valve to control blades, Super Z chains for when all traction's gone.

just picked this beauty up tonight. been searching for a 953 or a 1054 for a while. sorry in advance for all the questions ill be asking about it!

I would use hydraulic fluid for tractors. Atf is hydraulic fluid with detergents in it that carry dirt and debris on the surface of the detergents which can cut seals. Hydraulic fluid captures dirt and debris and suspends it in the fluid. But I guess six of one half dozen the other. Take it for what it's worth.

Good Luck Bob- Hang in there- God will be with you ( He likes Wheel Horses too!)- Al

May want to put a plug in one of the fittings and thread an air hose into the other to see if you can blow it apart using compressed air.

good luck bob,hopefully u will be relieved of pain after the operation

Best of Luck Bob. I hope all goes well for you.

That 416 looks as amazing as always Martin, as do the new decals from Terry. I know what you mean about getting busy with other things. My poor tractors have been neglected, and I'm ashamed of myself. My son tries to keep me inline, as he's very good about washing, and taking care of his 52 Standard. He comes to me from time to time, as says "Dad, your tractors sure could use some love." He's a good kid! It was great to see some pics of your fine machines again Martin. Matt

So how long is long Bob? Good luck and heal fast! Mike.........

Got the motor back together and mounted on the lawn ranger and it runs great no smoke I think its going to work well still waiting on my crank shaft sleeve to show up.

"But the flag I fly's got the stars and stripes, test my freedom and I'll be down for a fight" - Gunnar and the Grizzly Boys, Standard American Thank you to any who serve this great nation!

Hope everything goes good, and you have a speedy recovery.

It has self etching primer, white and clear...yeah your right about spray cans not getting as hard. And yes that is my plan to stay off of it for awhile n let the paint cure good for a week or so.

Spray can paint does not get as hard as auto paint or any other catalyzed paint. You also need to make sure you have a good primer coat. If you're spraying paint directly over bare metal, that will also cause this. I'd strip the seat to metal, spray with a self etching primer, let dry a day or two, spray couple coats of white, let dry a few days, and clear coat with a compatible enamel clear. Let dry a few more days. Hardest part is you need to keep your ass off the seat for a about a week. Rattle can paint is soft, even when cured, and needs a good primer underneath as well. I'm betting your issue is lack of a good primer and using it before it is fully cured. Dry on the top is not the same as fully cured. Most spray paints take a week or longer to fully cure. Especially at lower air temps. I'd take it in the house for a few days when you're done so it dries completely.

Hope all goes well for you Bob.

Rock and Rye is the real deal for warding off a cold/flu, and helping to get rid of it faster if you are already sick. Steve enlightened me to the benefits of R&R at the Big Show. I actually think that was the Summer of 2013. I have not had the cold or flu since. When the weather gets cold I have a shot or two every day as soon as I get home from work. Keep in mind until I took Steve's advice every year I always caught a cold and most winters had the flu and would be out of work for a week because of it. Thank you Steve

In my opinion, do it the way your daughter wants. Its for the both of you to enjoy together. When she gets older and maybe doesnt follow the hobby anymore then dad, ( you ) can break it down and repaint it regal red. Who cares, enjoy the time together, dont let patina, pashimna get in the way of quality time. Way later down the road, redo it again, the correct colors. Give you something to do later. Best of luck, be interesting to see what happens. Glenn

I was messing around with Ctrl + to make the text larger and then clicked on Craigs enlarged turkey head profile and about fell off my chair.............

Grandsons love doin' donuts on our driveways with "their" Panzer. The color was never an issue. Panzer+Radio_Flyer.MOV