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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/04/2015 in all areas
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5 pointsSaw this on craiglist today. I copied the pics , i can not say i have ever seen this done. Mounting the loader backwards then fabbing a grapple with snow blades. Heres some of the pics.
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4 pointsGive this a try, I can do it with ease, explanation below. In elementary school I had a great deal of difficulty with reading and spelling, it was determined that I had dyslexia and alternative teaching methods proved successful. As a radarman in the US Navy I was able to use this shortcoming as an advantage. While on watch we were required to write backwards on a clear plexiglass status board so the officers could read updates on our position and any nearby contacts (other ships). Several others had difficulty writing backward, not me, been doing it all my life!
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4 points
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4 pointsThat is quite the logging rig, I don't think I would want to spend too much time in the Hot Seat over the engine; gives a whole new meaning to nut roaster.
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4 pointsBelieve it or not I have seen stuff like that more than once. Sometime from the same customer. Take it to Monro, They will replace the entire braking system except for that rotor!
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4 pointsHere is part of my crew from last year. I bought my glass windshield (painted the outside red) from a JD dealer online for less than the amount quoted. In my opinion it stiffens the cab up as well as being nice. The only thing is the vinyl window can be shaken to clear but you need the wiper on the glass windshield. Later in the season last year I found a source for the motorized windshield wiper for less than $100.00 and it will be replacing the manual one this year. I've got a few more goodies to add for this year's version. The Ariens cab came from the same JD dealer for way less than MSRP as well. I got tired of looking like a snowman!
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3 pointshi men, going thru a wh tractor for a friend. i noticed that the drawbar pin had no snap rings or e-clips holding it in. UH-OH! boy was that pin stuck. penetrating oil and my oxy-acetylene torch would not help free it. in desperation i cut it as close as possible to the unidrive tranny case. using a thin cutoff wheel on an angle grinder i sanded it flush with the case. then i used my ball joint C-press kit with a 5/8 bolt that i cut the head off. it managed to push it out. what a relief! good tools are priceless. i mention this in hopes it helps one of you unstick one of those buggers. used lots of anti-sieze on the new one going back in. best regards to all mike in mass.
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3 pointsThroughout the history world more damage has been done when the mouth is activated before the brain, just look at our leading political figures. But, don't fret, there is a solution!
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3 pointsNice RJ you have there. This is mine that I bought from Jdogcustoms about four years ago. As far as I know, fenders and tool boxes were optional equipment on the RJ-58's. Yours looks great just at it is sans fenders
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3 pointsHad no problem reading either one of those. probably because as many of you have noticed I cant spell to begin with.................
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3 pointsThat's pretty cool Richard. OK, how many of you just tried to write backwards? I've seen those plexiglass boards and never even gave it a thought about writing backwards. I could print but my cursive wasn't very good. Here's another one to try. I'd argue about the great mind thing though. That there ain't not me. Now that I think of it my typing looks like this. Maybe I don't have to keep correcting my typos.
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3 points
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3 points
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3 pointsHere is my recently refurbished 42" blower on my 312-8 with custom chute. Just finished my custom weight rack. Hoping I wont need chains but we will see.
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3 pointsYeah that looks good keeps the brake pads vented and cooled Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
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3 points
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3 points
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2 pointsFound a nice loader project on eBay and wound up high bidder, somehow, last week. It was a bit of a drive for me, but even with gas and tolls (12 hours round trip!!!) I'm into this for under $400. This particular kwikway loader originally came from an early 80's FF series Sears garden tractor. That was the big Sears tractor that went up against the Deere 420. The kwikways were all built the same, they just took a machine specific subframe. This one had the loader, the valve and the rams, no subframe or pump. Diagonal braces came with it and the valve and the hydraulic rams are all in good shape for their age. Thanks to doc724 and some others, I've got all the dimensions I need to build a subframe. A friend of mine is going to take my CAD drawing to a laser cutter vendor to cut out all the subframe components out of 1/4" plate. I'll weld up the front diagonal mounts, the pump bracket and the mid mount frame. Made some cardstock mock ups of the front mounts, and fine tuned them to fit . I've also picked up a control valve service manual and an oring kit to refurb the valve. The valve is all torn down now and all parts are in good shape. As soon as fall leaf cleanup is done, I'll be able to get some front mount patterns and measurements for the pump carrier and then I should be set to get an order in to the laser cutter. This will be a fun project. Hopefully it will be ready for mulch spreading duty come spring.
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2 pointsI would like to share this idea to help take some of the weight which the snowblower/thrower adds to the front, and add it to the rear. While also making the blower easier to lift. I know some of you use the spring to help with lifting, but most of its tension is when the blower is in the down position. I ran the cable directly through the cable tube and not using the rock shaft. Ran it it through a pulley (NOS idler I had) which is connected to the "attach-o-matic" and back to the bottom hole in the lift arm. While the flag is in the upper hole of the lift arm, the weight that is in the rear, is connected to he bottom hole giving the added weight a little better mechanical advantage. So the weight in the back is actually helping to lift the weight in the front.
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2 points
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2 pointsStorage space is not an issue. Convincing the wife I need a dozen Wheel Horse tractors is where I may run into a problem!
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2 points
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2 pointsI could read it all as well .... many times I wished we had a spell checker here what worse i am all thumbs on a keyboard, had more interest in girls than typing class in high school.....
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2 pointsSeriously, more like at least another $1K for the 5xi market. Be careful when adjusting the motion control and and make sure it is solid on the wheel stands. That is a lot of weight to come down.
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2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsYou need to patronize the Jiffy Lube my wife was going to. When our Mountaineer had about 35K on it they told her it would need brakes soon, pads were down to 20 percent; with 41K they said it had 45 percent left. At that rate we would have new brakes on it by the time we got to 60K. I told her from then on I would take it to a private family owned garage with trustworthy employees. Had the car inspected the other day at 75K and have about 30 percent left.
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2 pointsanother good tip that i just used on two of mine that were stuck is a pipe wrench. soak it first of course ,grab a 2 footer, the jaws seem to fit just right and get a nice tight grab on it. best of all didnt waste the pin.
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsIf they come in flavors it might catch on with wives for their husbands...or vice versa...
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2 pointsMowing lawns is like a box of chocolate, you never know what you're gonna hit...
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2 pointshttp://struckcorp.com/contact-us/location-how-to-order
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2 points
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2 pointsRetail from Original Tractor Cab cab 885 glass window 180 electric wiper 199 work lights 79 safety light 99 mirror 44 loaded cab 1471 + shipping
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2 pointsOK. Here's what we learned today. When l started in on the tractor, I started working from the front. Points gap was fine. Pulled off the air filter cover to find it was soaked with fuel, along with the filter. Pulled the carb, drained it, pulled the bowl. While it was upside down to check the float adjustment, I noticed that float was laying on the carb body and needle valve was doing nothing, come to find out the new needle valve is 1/32 shorter then my old one (I keep everything). I took my stock clip off of the new needle valve and used the one provided in the kit. Had to make a minor float adjusment because of the different needle valve clip. Put back together, and runs like a champ. Turns over once and fires right up. I chaulk this up to being in a hurry, thinking the all new parts were apples to apples. So no safety interlocks issues. Coil is good, also it has a internal resister with a resistive value of 3.2 to 3.5. Keeping just below the 9.6v that I was concerned about. I didn't want to burn my points up. Stevasaurus, you were spot on. Thank you all though for your responses and guidance. Ty
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2 points
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2 points
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1 pointI promised a while back to upload pics... here it is in all it's glory! 1979 B-111 (11 HP Briggs & Stratton engine, 8 speed manual gearbox) I also have a plow for it. Purchased it for about $600, good working condition. Tires are tired, I've put tubes in two of them so far. It had a new fuel pump (some plastic disk with a membrane driven by crankcase pressure). Last spring I evicted some mice from the engine head.
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1 pointIt's always a bad subject to many of us, but things can get away from us so quickly. We all have good intentions, we make a promise to ourselves that on that next project we will allow enough time to clean up while the project is finished or in progress. Then comes the HORDER FACTOR. I hate to throw something away cause I may need it some day. The problem is by the time I need it I can't find it! Good Intentions are just that Good Intentions! After retiring about a year ago I had good intentions of thinning down the herd in order to get things under control and in a more manageable state as the ponies crept out of the stable and in my shop, leaving me NO ROOM to work. After thinning down the herd from 24 down to 9 I was able to clear out my 24 X 50 Garage 1200 sq ft total which is 500 sq ft shop and 700 sq ft for vehicles, and I am happy to say I am down to only having 1 Tractor in it. My 91 520-H Snow Chucker w Tall chute. In my shop is my 55 Senior. The other 7 tractors are in the 12 X 25 300 sq ft stable. So now I have some room to move around the shop and have both my vehicles in the garage which make MJ Happy! And we all know happy wife = happy life! Cleaning the shop and having room is always a MAJOR PAIN if you can't move things around to keep clean. I helped solve this problem by hoisting up the SENIOR on the hydraulic lift table I had (yep decided to keep it) and it worked perfectly so I can move that Ole girl around. A thought came to mind hey why don't I put lockable wheel casters on all my other machines. So on a few machines I built base carts and set the machines on them. 2 sanders, Scroll Saw, Hydraulic Press, File Cabinet (for owners manuals) and welding table. All of these casters are polyurethane and rated at 125 lbs each totaling 500 lbs and nothing is near that heavy. Now I can move this equipment around to sweep clean and whatever I need to do.
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1 pointCongrats, and welcome to the club. Someone will be by later to teach you the secret handshake.
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1 pointStopped and gave it a rinse on my way to work can someone run these numbers and tell me the year thanks Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
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1 pointThe anti-sieze is a good thing. Your experience is a good reminder for all of us to lube everything as part of routine maintenance understanding that these machines were made to be around for a very long time.
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1 pointSorry no one answered your question but I will try to give a pearl or two of past wisdom that still sticks to this brain of mine. Normally when a small engine starts, idles or even goes full throttle then cuts out under load, I look at two things right away. Fuel and Governor/Easiest to hardest). 1. Fuel supply! When an engine runs but dies under load, it requires more fuel. if it can't get it, it cuts out. Make sure the fuel tank is clean. The fuel line if any is clean and replace it anyway if you haven't done so. 2. Since the carb supplies fuel also, give it a good cleaning and blow carb cleaner down each jet, (screw), you find on it. Briggs carbs are a PITA to get correct so beware! 3. If you feel that you have good fuel flow to and through the carb, look at the governor. Sometimes the external linkage slips on the internals over time. Especially true if there is oil all over the gov's linkage. There should be some resistance on the governor arm FROM the motor. Not much but some. If its limp, try loosening the connector and turn the cam it attaches to counter clockwise with your fingers. If there is some resistance when you do this, your internals are fine. Keep the cam in the resistant state with a pair of pliers and reconnect the gov arm. Give it a whirl. Keep in mind that not all small engines are the same. If you can get a book for the motor on your unit, read it on how to adjust the gov FIRST! :< )
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1 pointHere is some information on the HP issue. http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/02/15/AR2008021501732.html
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1 point
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1 pointYes, that is even harder to find than the one pictured above. Just curious if any of the members have the one that mounts underneath? I have this one and the under-mount PTO-66 as well.
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1 pointThis is almost all done ,I've got 1 rim to paint gas filter to change and it will almost be done . well it's never done completely right guys. But I might have a gold mine the guy at my local scrap yard is going to call me if he gets any wheel horse's in. and he will save them for me to buy at scrap price, Never know what will come in. I got 5 gals of rv antifreeze in both rear tires with new tubes front and rear need front weight somehow. I got my new decals from terry today and they look great. 10 mins had them on very easy to apply ,thanks terry
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