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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/04/2015 in all areas
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5 pointsSaw this on craiglist today. I copied the pics , i can not say i have ever seen this done. Mounting the loader backwards then fabbing a grapple with snow blades. Heres some of the pics.
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4 pointsGive this a try, I can do it with ease, explanation below. In elementary school I had a great deal of difficulty with reading and spelling, it was determined that I had dyslexia and alternative teaching methods proved successful. As a radarman in the US Navy I was able to use this shortcoming as an advantage. While on watch we were required to write backwards on a clear plexiglass status board so the officers could read updates on our position and any nearby contacts (other ships). Several others had difficulty writing backward, not me, been doing it all my life!
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4 points
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4 pointsThat is quite the logging rig, I don't think I would want to spend too much time in the Hot Seat over the engine; gives a whole new meaning to nut roaster.
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4 pointsBelieve it or not I have seen stuff like that more than once. Sometime from the same customer. Take it to Monro, They will replace the entire braking system except for that rotor!
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4 pointsHere is part of my crew from last year. I bought my glass windshield (painted the outside red) from a JD dealer online for less than the amount quoted. In my opinion it stiffens the cab up as well as being nice. The only thing is the vinyl window can be shaken to clear but you need the wiper on the glass windshield. Later in the season last year I found a source for the motorized windshield wiper for less than $100.00 and it will be replacing the manual one this year. I've got a few more goodies to add for this year's version. The Ariens cab came from the same JD dealer for way less than MSRP as well. I got tired of looking like a snowman!
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3 pointshi men, going thru a wh tractor for a friend. i noticed that the drawbar pin had no snap rings or e-clips holding it in. UH-OH! boy was that pin stuck. penetrating oil and my oxy-acetylene torch would not help free it. in desperation i cut it as close as possible to the unidrive tranny case. using a thin cutoff wheel on an angle grinder i sanded it flush with the case. then i used my ball joint C-press kit with a 5/8 bolt that i cut the head off. it managed to push it out. what a relief! good tools are priceless. i mention this in hopes it helps one of you unstick one of those buggers. used lots of anti-sieze on the new one going back in. best regards to all mike in mass.
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3 pointsThroughout the history world more damage has been done when the mouth is activated before the brain, just look at our leading political figures. But, don't fret, there is a solution!
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3 pointsNice RJ you have there. This is mine that I bought from Jdogcustoms about four years ago. As far as I know, fenders and tool boxes were optional equipment on the RJ-58's. Yours looks great just at it is sans fenders
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3 pointsHad no problem reading either one of those. probably because as many of you have noticed I cant spell to begin with.................
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3 pointsThat's pretty cool Richard. OK, how many of you just tried to write backwards? I've seen those plexiglass boards and never even gave it a thought about writing backwards. I could print but my cursive wasn't very good. Here's another one to try. I'd argue about the great mind thing though. That there ain't not me. Now that I think of it my typing looks like this. Maybe I don't have to keep correcting my typos.
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3 points
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3 points
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3 pointsHere is my recently refurbished 42" blower on my 312-8 with custom chute. Just finished my custom weight rack. Hoping I wont need chains but we will see.
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3 pointsYeah that looks good keeps the brake pads vented and cooled Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
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3 points
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2 pointsFound a nice loader project on eBay and wound up high bidder, somehow, last week. It was a bit of a drive for me, but even with gas and tolls (12 hours round trip!!!) I'm into this for under $400. This particular kwikway loader originally came from an early 80's FF series Sears garden tractor. That was the big Sears tractor that went up against the Deere 420. The kwikways were all built the same, they just took a machine specific subframe. This one had the loader, the valve and the rams, no subframe or pump. Diagonal braces came with it and the valve and the hydraulic rams are all in good shape for their age. Thanks to doc724 and some others, I've got all the dimensions I need to build a subframe. A friend of mine is going to take my CAD drawing to a laser cutter vendor to cut out all the subframe components out of 1/4" plate. I'll weld up the front diagonal mounts, the pump bracket and the mid mount frame. Made some cardstock mock ups of the front mounts, and fine tuned them to fit . I've also picked up a control valve service manual and an oring kit to refurb the valve. The valve is all torn down now and all parts are in good shape. As soon as fall leaf cleanup is done, I'll be able to get some front mount patterns and measurements for the pump carrier and then I should be set to get an order in to the laser cutter. This will be a fun project. Hopefully it will be ready for mulch spreading duty come spring.
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2 pointsI would like to share this idea to help take some of the weight which the snowblower/thrower adds to the front, and add it to the rear. While also making the blower easier to lift. I know some of you use the spring to help with lifting, but most of its tension is when the blower is in the down position. I ran the cable directly through the cable tube and not using the rock shaft. Ran it it through a pulley (NOS idler I had) which is connected to the "attach-o-matic" and back to the bottom hole in the lift arm. While the flag is in the upper hole of the lift arm, the weight that is in the rear, is connected to he bottom hole giving the added weight a little better mechanical advantage. So the weight in the back is actually helping to lift the weight in the front.
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2 points
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2 pointsStorage space is not an issue. Convincing the wife I need a dozen Wheel Horse tractors is where I may run into a problem!
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2 points
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2 pointsI could read it all as well .... many times I wished we had a spell checker here what worse i am all thumbs on a keyboard, had more interest in girls than typing class in high school.....
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2 pointsSeriously, more like at least another $1K for the 5xi market. Be careful when adjusting the motion control and and make sure it is solid on the wheel stands. That is a lot of weight to come down.
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2 pointsYou need to patronize the Jiffy Lube my wife was going to. When our Mountaineer had about 35K on it they told her it would need brakes soon, pads were down to 20 percent; with 41K they said it had 45 percent left. At that rate we would have new brakes on it by the time we got to 60K. I told her from then on I would take it to a private family owned garage with trustworthy employees. Had the car inspected the other day at 75K and have about 30 percent left.
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2 pointsanother good tip that i just used on two of mine that were stuck is a pipe wrench. soak it first of course ,grab a 2 footer, the jaws seem to fit just right and get a nice tight grab on it. best of all didnt waste the pin.
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsIf they come in flavors it might catch on with wives for their husbands...or vice versa...
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2 pointsMowing lawns is like a box of chocolate, you never know what you're gonna hit...
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2 pointshttp://struckcorp.com/contact-us/location-how-to-order
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2 points
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2 pointsRetail from Original Tractor Cab cab 885 glass window 180 electric wiper 199 work lights 79 safety light 99 mirror 44 loaded cab 1471 + shipping
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2 pointsOK. Here's what we learned today. When l started in on the tractor, I started working from the front. Points gap was fine. Pulled off the air filter cover to find it was soaked with fuel, along with the filter. Pulled the carb, drained it, pulled the bowl. While it was upside down to check the float adjustment, I noticed that float was laying on the carb body and needle valve was doing nothing, come to find out the new needle valve is 1/32 shorter then my old one (I keep everything). I took my stock clip off of the new needle valve and used the one provided in the kit. Had to make a minor float adjusment because of the different needle valve clip. Put back together, and runs like a champ. Turns over once and fires right up. I chaulk this up to being in a hurry, thinking the all new parts were apples to apples. So no safety interlocks issues. Coil is good, also it has a internal resister with a resistive value of 3.2 to 3.5. Keeping just below the 9.6v that I was concerned about. I didn't want to burn my points up. Stevasaurus, you were spot on. Thank you all though for your responses and guidance. Ty
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2 points
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2 points
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1 pointhi all, i know the A-800 ranger is not a popular horsey, runt of the herd if you like! but.. in a previous topic i asked about using my A-800 for some light ground engagement, the implements would be converted from pedestrian operated colwood mono tractor. it was suggested that the tranny wouldn't like that (as expected really). i did mention this project in the "what sort of ground engagement work could i do??" post but trying to keep posts on topic i thought id start a new one, also going into more detail about my big idea. so, here's my pitch: i'm thinking about turning my A-800 lawn tractor into the all new Agri-800 garden tractor! what does this mean you may be asking? well, i will be putting in a beefier tranny (i have one in mind), the popular front spindle to 4 lug hub mod, lifting clevis hitch, larger front and rear wheels, front weight block and many other little bits and bobs. so what do you think? I'm sure some of you will think it's not worth it but i like the A-800 rangers personally, they deserve a place in the WH community. thanks for looking and ALL opinions gratefully received, Callum
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1 pointI thought i would share my little lawn ranger winter project with you guys i bought this little guy over the summer and haven't did much with it besides give it a good cleaning it ran when i got it but smoked a little and was had to start and the more i used it the worse it got i think it is a combination of things so the plan is to focus on the engine wont really know how bad it is till i tear into it i will keep you posted.
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1 pointHello! New member from Canada here! I have been bitten by the horse! My story goes like this..... I live on a 2 acre property most of which the lawn is groomed and mowed. I had an Ariens lawn tractor that had more issues than I did advil for the headaches it gave me. It was a big box store model ariens so it was, well to put it nicely.....junk. I was fed up and the Mrs and I come to terms it was time to buy a brand new garden tractor. So off to the green and yellow tractor dealership I went expecting to spend way more than I cared for. I get there and look at some of the heavier duty green and yellows when over in the corner of the lot I see this red square tractor. "Whats that?" I asked the salesman. "That there is a Wheel Horse" he replies. "Don't know anything about them, just selling it for my neighbours who had a small hobby farm and have since moved to a smaller house." he says. So ten minutes later I am the proud new owner of a 314-8 Wheel Horse. Paid $700 Canadian dollar for it or roughly $530 US! I pull up to my house and the wife says that doesn't look like a new tractor nor a JD. I don't know what it was about it but I had to have it, and I saved thousands of dollars. The 314-8 is in good condition and runs great. Fast forward about 5 weeks later.....I am constantly on kijiji looking for attachments for the 314-8. Then one day I see an ad just listed. Couldn't resist. I am the proud new owner of a what I believe to be 1960 Suburban. I paid $150 Canadian for it or roughly $110 US. Still trying to figure out if it is a 400 or 550. The original motor is replaced with a 8hp Techumseh. Pull start with electric starter option. I am going to start a new thread on my Suburban sometime in the future as it needs some work....a lot of work. I have attached a few pics of Suburban...note the exhaust coming right through the hood and also "custom" throttle and choke locations....gonna fix that!
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1 pointI'm with Ed on this one as well. The Briggs Vanguard replacement engine you had on the 520 is still just under 1600 dollars new. You can't find them used and used Onan's are expensive too plus you have no idea what your getting. If the Eaton transmission is also losing power once it's warmed up, your best bet is to forgo that tractor. If you use ground contact attachments like garden plows, the hydro transmissions are not recommended. I would look for a 12 to 18 horsepower Wheelhorse with the 8 speed manual transmission. (hi/lo Range). As Ed mentioned, the 300 and 400 series tractors use the same attachments as your 520 with just a few exceptions. You could easily use a single cylinder Kohler 12 or 14 horse tractor to do everything you did with your 520 and save yourself a lot of money plus you will have less headaches with a simpler Kohler single. Look for the newer 312 8 Speed and 314 8 speed and the older C Series tractors with the Kohler 12 or 14HP engine. Just make sure what you get has a horizontal shaft engine with the "classic" PTO on the side like your 520 has. If you still want to stay with an automatic, do NOT look at a 312-A, a 516 H or a 518 H. These have the Eaton 700 hydro rears and are not at all for use with ground engagement attachments. Again, most of us will recommend the manuals verses the hydros for garden plowing and tilling, etc. You can sell your old 520H for parts here in our classified section and list it on your local CraigsList. Just keep the attachments that you used with the 520 for use with another WH tractor! You should let us know where you live under location and also list it in the add you place for the parts tractor. The classified add has to show a price so you can tell us what you want for it and then state "or best offer". You would be surprised how close you might live to a Redsquare member. We make house calls too and other than some donuts and coffee, it's free! Oh and Welcome to the Forum! We're glad you found us!
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1 point@Racinbob I could read that also...no problem. How come I can read these messages but when someone misspells something here or on other forums it bothers me something terrible?
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointLooks like somethin you'd see here in south central Iowa............... maybe in one of my neighbors garage................. Looks like it's working good once you get used to steering it.............
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1 pointThat's funny, I used to hear that a lot when I was younger... Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
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1 pointYes, ekennell's cab has all the factory options and is a knockout!!!!! I would love to add those options to mine one of these days. (wifes ready to strangle me now. If she noticed glass windshield and wiper and roof lights I'd have to run for my life........ ) I've been told after its been fully assembled it comes off or goes on in about 45 minutes depending on how much wiring needs to be hooked up or disconnected. You could always leave the frame on year round and just remove and install the panels and have a sun canopy for the summer. A white roof would be the choice for summer duty..... Thanks for the compliment my friend. The tool box retired the same day I did and won't be traveling to anymore GM dealerships.......