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Compliments of my eleven year old granddaughter.

Put new tires on my 520H, so my HF tire changer paid for itself already. One new, one old: Both replaced:

Just took some pictures on 12 year old digital camera and fumbled around till I got on the computor..... Bear with me please I may need some help.... By the way it is of my 520H with the new cab I installed yesterday......

Hi Everyone. New guy here and just picked up a lil RJ58. I currently also have a 875 which has been in my family since new. Being from WI I tend to use the ole girl year round so I wouldn't say my stuff are show machines by any means. My brother has had a few other RJs, Burbans, and 8 series tractors years ago but I never really looked over the RJ's that closely. My deck on the rj needs to be redone yet but its mowing, I just need to get the kinks worked out. Now comes a bunch of questions as my 875 has always been my main go to tractor: -Has anyone even put a snow blower onto a RJ from a suburban? -With the lighter weight of the tractor how good are these guys for snow plowing? -anyone have a K90 heat shield, belt guard, toolbox or fenders?

I found my third wheelhorse on craigslist a few weeks ago. This one is a c-161 manual trans with a custom built trailer (previous owner was an aircraft mechanic) and built a really nice trailer with an aluminum bottom. The tractor has been repainted by the previous owner and stored inside a shed for many years. I just wish these were not so expensive in Texas.

They are a work horse

Well some of you know I'm one of the first members on here and have been on here as a regular for years, but this year not so much, my youngest son Ryan, loves racing as do I, I have raced cars for 33 years, with that said I bought him a race car early this spring, he was only 14 years old so we started small. The car was a ready to run race car it had been raced for about 8 years, and showed it, but still a good starter car, we paid $900 for it, the class is called Poney stocks they are american made FWD 4 cyl. cars, Dodge Neons and Chevy Cavaliers rule the track, the track we race is 1/4 mile paved, the car we bought is a 90's Neon, with a 2.0 auto. the cars must remain stock to the eye no hot rod parts allowed, and DOT street tires they can run a safety wheel on the right front, lots of G force on that wheel in the turns, these cars get up to a average speed on the straight aways 75 mph all in first gear the little engines are twisting near 7000 RPM at the end of the long back stretch, tough little engines I will say, the car has a well built roll cage and other safety items like alum race seat, 5 point harness, and other small stuff. I did put a cheap flat black paint job on it, and a buddy did the vinyl decals for the sponsors and numbers. I didn't say that he never drove a car before the day we took him to test and tune weekend, and turned him loose, we told him to just drive slow around the track the first few laps, to get the feel for the car and the track, after a few hours here taking his turn on the track going a little faster each time, about 5 or so laps at a time he was doing pretty good, till he tried to go faster yet, the car got away from him in turn 4 which is a tight turn and he hit the wall hard, ripped the R. front suspension off the car,9He was fine shook up) so we got it home fixed it up and took him out the next day for more practice laps, well after 26 weeks of racing every fri. night, and half dozen sunday races, another crash in the wall, and a couple part failures, like a broken hub letting the front wheel try to come off, 2 broken axles and other little stuff, all of that we / I fixed at the track and got him back out racing for the night, He finished 2nd in points in his class on the fri night races and 2nd in points on the sun. races, sunday races he lost first place by 1 point, and also for the season received perfect attendance and Rookie of the year, oh ya did I say most of his fellow racers are in their late 20's to late 30's, he was one of the youngest on the track, pretty proud of him, we butted heads at times but I think we grew closer and both learned things all summer. So that is one reason I was not on here much, I'll make a post on the second reason in a few, here are a few pics of Ryan's car, oh and wwee are already starting a brand new car for him for next year.

Hi All, after tinkering around with my '64 704 for what seems like forever, I finally got it to the point that it is rideable and near completion. The original pull start motor had a sticking exhaust valve, so I replaced it with a later model k181 with the starter attached to it, converting it to electric start. Of course it had to be wired to make everything work, and I ended up using a motorcycle battery, since a standard garden tractor battery won't fit (starter encroaches into the battery box area). After searching this site, and discussing my options with other members, I decided to attach the regulator/rectifier via metal straps to right side of the frame above where the belt guard is (there are a couple of pre-drilled holes from the factory already there, so I bolted the straps there). I took it out yesterday for a shakedown run around my yard for about 25 mins with the only issue being the throttle will not lock in place. While working on it over this past year, It seemed like once I thought it was ready to go, something else would throw me a curve ball, (couldn't get it to rev past 1/2 throttle, governor not working, dead battery etc.) but it's all sorted now and running like a champ. It fires right up (after I figured out that full choke and about 1/4 throttle does the trick) and is reading a little over 14 volts when running, and the battery shows over 13 volts when I shut it off, so the charging system is functioning as designed. I can't tell you how elated I am that this 51 year old garden tractor is finally alive. This 704 is in it's original somewhat crusty patina, and I haven't decided if I should repaint it or not. I'm open to suggestions. Attached is a picture of it when I first got it in March or 2013, in the picture it has the original K161 motor with an aftermarket bolt on electric starter. Thanks to all that have provided suggestions in the past.

Who cares if they don't work well ....looks sweet!!! Agree with 953...load 'em up.

I was just blowing out the mouse nest I found in the JD I rescued. I stuffed a clean rag in the carb, and then put the filter on over that, so I didn't get any in the carb. Finished up, and couldn't figure out why it would barely run. Ran better after I took the rag out!

Went camping and dressed up! Me (Munchkin) Wife (Good Witch Glenda) Stepdaughter (Dorothy) her Husband (Scarecrow), his sons Tin man & the Lion

Yesterday I was using my SK-486 to clean up the yard. It runs great. I turned it off for a minute to pick up some debris. When I got back on and turned the key, nothing happened. I thought it might be the battery, so I jumped it. Again, nothing. There is no indication that the starter is getting any juice. I've never had difficulty starting before. The lights and hour-clock are working fine. I'm thinking the starter crapped-out. Any thoughts on how I can better troubleshoot before I invest in a new starter? Appreciate everyone ideas. Pictures attached.

If you load those tires you will gain a lot of traction.

Love to see a round hood in work cloths, nothing wrong with that.

Love the looks but you might find they don't work quite as well with the chains, snow and ice. The turfs keep more of the chains pressed into the surface. But they will work, and if not as well, just stop and look at them again.

You'd be surprised how much snow those little things can push. I see others say it will only push small amounts of light snow but that's not my experience. I was pushing some heavy snow in decent size amounts one year with my RJ. Have since sold the blade to AMCrules and he was pushing snow with it last year. I wouldn't bother with the snowblower unless you want it for looks. Those little 4 hp engines don't have the power. BUT, the blower you are looking for is a ST302. It has round sides so you will know when you see it. Borrowed this pic of another member's machine

Got it right side up too!

Nice job. Everyone is torturing me with cab photos.........lol. Glenn

Which village is missing their idiot?

Well ya...I've been sitting here waiting for you to call me.

Wait a minute when someone stirs the pot, you don't expect a reaction?? I'm just saying

I like them back wheels.

I just had a 520-H shipped from northern Indiana to Georgia by Fastenal. Only the gas had to be drained. Cost less than $200.

Personally speaking I don't think I'd bother too much working that old RJ, especially with a snow blower. It might have been somewhat okay when the tractor was brand new and everything was fresh.. The snow blade on an RJ will probably push up to 4- 6 inches of LIGHT snow.. Keep that 875 going, you'll be much happier working that one. Very nice tractors you have there and to Redsquare..

"Wish I had binoculars...she's undressing again."

Rim width is hard to explain so people understand it. You and I need to remove the tire from the wheel to measure rim width. Rim width is the distance between the lips that hold the tire bead on the wheel. An 8" wheel will have an overall width of about 8-1/2" to 8-3/4". Once this is understood one can stick a rule through a slot in the wheel and come pretty close. Wheel widths are usually in 1/2" increments. There are simple calipers made to measure wheel width. You will see them used on today's computerized wheel balancers so the balancer knows what it is balancing. They measure the outside of the wheel bead lips and are calibrated to allow for the steel thickness x 2 to get an inside measurement. Garry

here is what I can hope to find out about this lil 58. May be a early one as it has a k90, and welded hitch. I'm not savy on the trans #'s maybe someone can shed some light on it. Original tag says RJ58 and serial# looks like 4 digits ending in either 35 or 85?...?

This is not a very nice tractor, but it belonged to my late father for the last 25 years, so it's going to get a new lease on life, and a modification or two I figure he would approve of... My dad's neighbor bought it new (in 1984) but it is an 80, my dad bought it from him in 1990. When he passed and my mom (85) took up mowing she hated the 8 speed so I bought her a new hydrostatic craftsman and ran off with this. It was rusty, and covered by brushed on flat black paint. It ran great, but the rubber in the shaker mounts was gone. The tranny had started popping out of high range and one axle/hub key way was destroyed and he had drilled through both and inserted a 1/4 bolt. Here is the only picture of it while it was still mostly together. The pad eye on the mule drive was welded on so he could drag it out of the woods when the keyway spun. And I apologize for the mess that is my garage.

Please forgive the question, if it's been asked and answered. I'm new to the site, and had trouble searching for an answer to my issues I use my Wheel Horse B-80 all year round. It started acting up a couple of weeks ago, first it would die while mowing. I could restart it easily and finish the job. A week ago it wouldn't start and had to use a battery charger because battery needed help. It would run until it warmed up and die like you turned it off. This is not normal for this unit, usually it starts right up, not continuously cranking. At that time I was thinking it was fuel delivery, so I bought a carb re-build kit (gaskets and needle valve), blew out the carb, put it back together. Same thing, 10 minutes and done, won't restart. Bought a new fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, air filter and cleaned the tank and screen on the pet cock. No change. This weekend bought new points, condenser, plug and replaced the now toasted battery. I was able to mow for 30 minutes then it died and wouldn't start. Checked for spark again, nothing. Replaced the coil and was able to finish the days toils, however it did die twice while using it and start right back up. When it dies, it's a complete loss of power. You would think it's fixed, but no. Still dies after warming up. Besides the part listed above that were recently replace, I've also replaced the rectifier, ignition switch and starter solenoid two years ago. Any and all suggestions are welcome at this point, tired of throwing parts at it. I need it ready for Indiana snow. Thank you in advance, Ty Fritz

Well I was not on here much this year because of two things my son starting his racing career, and me building myself a new race car, you can read about Ryans part in the other what I did all summer post, this will be a very small look and my car build I did this spring. Well I've been racing cars since I was 16 and I just turned 49 so easy to say a Long time, but this was hands down the best car I ever built, LOTS of hours went in to this, I did every thing but the machine work on the engine and building the trans, I touched every bolt on this car removed and most of them replaced, Ryan helped on this build also, he welded the new floors in, and lots of other stuff. I started with a rusty 1974 Chevelle I replaced the floors, the roof, and reshaped the wheel openings along with many patch panels for rust, I welded the cage in after making it fit this car I bought it in pieces like a jig saw puzzle but was for a different body (yes cage is WH red), I added lots of bars also for safety as I race figure 8's, every seem in the body was welded for strength, I have near 50lbs of welding wire in putting this car together, and untold hours welding, hours up on hours of figuring out how I wanted stuff, trying to think 10 steps ahead, while doing the body I was also building the new engine. I sent the engine block out for machine work but I hand assembled it, with ARP studs, alum race heads 13 to 1 high dome pistons a very lumpy camshaft, MSD ing. and lots more, no dyno time but estimated at around 500 HP and drinks 110 octane fuel with ease, @ $7 a gal. and takes 6 gall. most nights not cheap, but OOOOHHHH so fun to drive. I put all new brakes and suspension in it along with a disk brake rearend from a 90's cop car, with aftermarket axles a posi with 3.73 gears, huge sway bars upgraded everything, I cut no corners I built the best I could afford. Trans was built by a local shop to my specs, it's a TH 350 after assembling the car and welding all the body panels on, again every seem welded fully, every light hole, door handle hole ect... was welded shut, I took it to work and painted it, the cage was done at home just the black done at work, a buddy cut the vinyl for it, it turned out pretty good all in all, some things I would do different on the next one, but it runs strong and has held up well this season, with very few new car bugs to work out, this was a very brief look at the build I skipped LOTS of details I just hit and missed the big stuff. I was defending Champion in my class from last year, but in building this car I missed a key night in the points race and finished second for the season, but took home a few thropeys and the crowed loved the new car, I have been for years a fan favorite because I drive hard and pull no punches, the figure 8's can be very dangerous and very exhilarating at the same time. Any questions on the car just ask.

A fellow class mate which is a neighbor of mine got his Car Creamed Monday morning and he wanted to know if I could look at my Video Surveillance footage to see If I could see who did it! I walked across the street and looked at his car looked at how high up it got smacked and I told him my next door neighbor let's call her AIR HEAD FUZZY BRITCHES did it! He said how do you know that? I told him it doesn't take much of a Rocket Scientist to figure this one out! This is like the 4th crime or incident I have made a movie of this year, I make em to give to the police. All I can say is those 17 IP Cameras sure have paid off since I put them in! Here's the Video, enjoy the music it fits the video real good! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wh4anVkQWqQ

I've used my 704 for everything but a grocery getter. Here's my favorite glamour shot!

You might be suprised... by the work these little guys can do.

It would work just fine and is a good idea. Most don't have the capabilities of cutting the slot though.

PENN ST. ILLINOIS, INDIANA, WISCONSIN, RUTGERS, MICHIGAN ST. OHIO ST. NOTRE DAME A lot of hard work went into these picks...Stay Thirsty my friends.

Please note the lift assist springs right behind the front axle that I installed on my snow plow. Also as previously mentioned, attach your lift linkage in the nearest hole to the lift cross/rock shaft.

Paint one side black & the other the off white, got the best of both then!

Dennis, I jumped the positive battery terminal to the red wire on the starter ... there is life in that starter !!!! Now I'm working backwards from there. I'll let you all know what I find. Thanks !!! I found the problem - PTO interlock. I had the mower attachment engage while I was trying to start. Ok, guys ... I deserve my fair share of ribbing. I've never before turned off the tractor before disengaging the mower (I was in a hurry) and it didn't dawn on me to check it. Thank you for all your help. It is unbelievable the support that exists through the members on this site.

Download the wiring diagram and step through the starter circuit. Pretty easy but holler if it is not clear. Blown fuse, safety switch...

this may be of some interest - jump into the time machine - from the early years! http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/22120-lets-get-ampd-up/?page=2#comment-190261

Now there ain't no better way for a father and son to spend time together than to work on race cars, and then watch your son race, and win! I'm very happy for you and you son! Your son will always remember how much you have helped and guided him... Congrats to both of you!

Lots of folks who do not know about rim sizes describe their rims by the tire that was on it. That's probably a 7" or 7.5" wide rim which is best for a 8.5 tire or at most a 9.5 tire. A 10.5 will balloon out and you wont get all the tread on the ground (and they look silly in my opinion). Mike.........

Welcome to Red Square and the Wheel Horse Addiction. You've got the perfect starter Wheel Horse to work with and restore and modify and buy attachments for and keep for a long long time. The 312-8 is the one I started with in 1991 and I still have it and its been the yardstick I've used to compare all the others I've bought and sold along the way. If your Kohler Magnum 12hp engine is not knocking or smoking or using oil it can run another 900 hours or more if you take really good care of it by changing the oil every 25 operating hours and spending the money on a top quality oil. Also run non ethanol gasoline and mix 3 oz MMO to 5 gal of non ethanol gasoline. Keep the air filter clean and make sure the PCV hose behind the air filter backing plate is intact, if not replace it now. Also read and learn everything you can about your Wheel Horse here at Red Square, become a Supporting Member, and we will see you at the 2016 Big Show.

In the video above that guy is just plain lazy, maybe I'm just a firm believer in using the right tool for the job...

Dennis and Glenn just dont tell my wife what happens when people spend too much time on this site

So THAT'S where the dog left his ball! Well, say goodbye to that one!

HEY NEIGHBOR, hows that green Thing working out for ya?!

You're right, it's not a very nice tractor... it's an AWESOME , that includes some great family history. for sharing it here.