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November 28 2011 - April 22 2026
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10/16/2015 - 10/16/2015
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/16/2015 in all areas
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12 points
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12 pointsHere is a quick up date on the 607. I had to paint this before it gets to cold so here is a couple picks. And the leaves are starting so there is all my time gone..... I hope you enjoy the picks. Gary B...........
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7 pointsI'll be 70 in January. I check the obituaries in the news paper everyday and I haven't seen my name yet.
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5 pointsThere is a ridge in the bottom of the tranny case that traps some oil in the front half of the tranny. You have to jack the front end up to drain it all. You said it was nasty before you put in your good oil i would but in a half gallon of DF2 (diesel fuel) or kerosene, run it around for a few minutes then raise the front end and drain it again. If it is really nasty you may have to repeat. Fill it with good oil thought the dip stick (or pull the shifter and go through that. Leave the fill plug open at first, it will speed up the filling. then close it and keep adding slowly til you get a good read on the dip stick
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5 pointsHeh! at 75 I've found the "golden years" are more like "lead/tin/brass years"
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5 points
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5 pointsHeck, I am only 29; though I have celebrated 41 anniversaries of my 29th birthday.
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4 points
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4 pointsHeck, I am from the Paleozoic era...I am afraid to go to sleep anymore.
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4 pointsI have a couple more sets of wheels but they just don't look quite right. I'm not going for an all original restore but these wheels just look right to me. I look at it as a labor of love. Good thing too because this whole tractor needs LOTS AND LOTS of TLC.
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4 points
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4 pointsim not plannng on using it right now. I'm going to service it and detail it a little. Are you going to use your NOS 520?i I'm going to put the 420 LSE to work too. I'll mow with it next year. Probably 5-10 hours a year. Its a shame to let it sit. It was built to use. I will pamper it though.
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4 pointsThinking about making one more mod to my 520H snow blowing machine. Left foot.....add a rocker pedal to control the lift Right foot...is used for F/R motion control Left hand..... can then stay on the steering wheel Right hand... chute rotation, chute deflector, coffee cup, and waving to the neighbors as I clear their driveways from inside the heated cab.
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3 pointsGetting old is all in your mind.....................If you can remember where you put it!
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3 pointsFilling through the dipstick tube is definitely easier, you'll need a long skinny funnel to reach down there. And be aware you might not get it to take the full 2 quarts, especially if you didn't get all the old oil drained out. Your old oil was "nasty looking", as in milky or bubbly? That would indicate water got into the transmission, probably through the shifter boot. Make sure you check that too, and replace it if necessary. -------- EDIT: Actually, your funnel doesn't really have to be very long, it just needs to be skinny enough to fit snugly inside the dipstick tube. If the tube has been removed for some reason, the funnel would have to be long enough to reach into the opening at the top of the transmission.
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3 points
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3 points
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3 pointsIt's #143 I do not have the plate. The woman who owned it kept the plate when Thad bought it. I think she worked for a wheel horse dealer and ordered it for her husband. He passed away a long time ago and it sat unused. It has 387 hours on a working meter. It was a 1000 mile round trip. I thought it was worth it. It's really hard to find low hour Wheel Horse tractors in Wisconsin. I drove it maybe 5 minutes. I really want to service it first. I have a few questions. What air filter and oil filter would it take. The air filter looks like one that would be used on a 16 horse kohler. The engine is model M20QS, I didn't get a manual with it. The question about the seat. Which one? The 420LSE or the 520H? I was going to have a new owners plate made for the 420LSE. Would someone that owns one post a picture of the plate? It's in good shape. It's going to need some detailing and a little sanding and paint touch up in a few spots. The 520H feels like a brand new tractor. Everything is tight. It's really clean too!!
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2 pointsA few days ago while I was complaining about my sore shoulders from wrestling this "killer tiller" through my strawberry beds along side my pole barn, Mrs. K made the comment " all those little tractors...can't they help you". Sure enough, the next day when I went to the barn, there sat the 314 Hydro with the blade off for a new scraper bar that a member made for me.........It looked like a mount for a TILLER. A little cutting with the radiac and its ready to mount up. Drill a few holes, add two braces, and make a belt tensioner. More seat time...less sore shoulders.
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2 pointsIt's a competition to see which part part of my body hurts each day. And then on rainy days - it's a real race!
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2 pointsMake sure that there isn't something blocking the drain hole and not letting all the oil drain out. It has happened to me some nasty sludge built up at the drain and wouldn't let the oil drain out I poked it with a screw driver and the rest came out but still I can usually only get about a quart in one Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
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2 points
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2 pointsNo, there's not enough for two complete tractors. Hopefully I'll have enough tranny parts to make one good one and there are enough tractor parts for a good one. The majority of the parts on the 657 and 500 Special are identical.
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2 pointsThe gentleman that gave these to me said most all of the Wheel Horse stuff he had started out in Michigan so freezing could be a possibility. The rails and forks are in great shape and there wasn't any slop. Providing the case on the other one is OK I'll just use it. Hopefully the gears I need will be in good shape. I do have a spare 3523 in very good shape (per Mike) that came out of the 5010 on my 400 that I can use if needed. Remember that little research project I did on the 3-speed parts? The only internal difference between a 5025 and a 5053 is the updated shifter rails on the 5053 (3515/3516 vs 5615/5616).
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsI'm pretty much an 8-speed guy. The hydros are ok but I'd rather change gears than change hydro fluid and filters. I don't know about the rest of you guys but I have more than enough maintenance to do ( on all my equipment combined ) without the added work of hydro maintenance on Wheel Horses. I have had a few hydro Horses but am happier banging gears LOL
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2 pointsWhen you pry off the caps there will be a zerk fitting in the center of the spindle gear You may need to dig through the grease to see it. Grease it heavily it will come out and lube the bevel gear. Packing the whole housing doesn't get grease down into the spindle and its bearings as well.
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2 pointsJust wanted to throw in a pic of the V61's mounted up, (sorry the garage is being reorganized):
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2 pointsHard to say, I have a 416-h and a C-161Auto, and C-161 8 speed so I would say try to get both!!
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2 pointsWell I bought it. Ill post pics tomorrow. The hydro is very strong. Very fast forward but slow in reverse I think the lever needs to be adjusted. The tractor frame is in great shape. The loader has one very poorly welded bracket no stress cracks though (Ill fix it eventually). It can lift a lot of weight. lifted me and 3 ret wall blocks at around 450lb with ease (however with the soft front tires very hard to turn with that much weight ad soft tires). It doesn't look nearly as good as Elliot's.
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2 pointsStill a good buy, The 520 makes a great loader tractor, I have had a few of them and my current one works great and has all the power you would ever need.
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2 pointsYeah, keep em both. Then start looking for more storage space. Cause when you pair em up, they will multiply
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2 points
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2 points
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1 pointI had a few starter issues on the B-100, so I decided to tear into it and see if I could un-broken it. This is more for those who have never taken a starter apart. This starter is found on the 10 - 16 Kohlers I think...but they are all pretty much the same. This one is called a "high mount" starter because the mounting bolts are underneath. From right to left...end cap assembly (with brushes)...frame...front end cap. Second row...armature...drive pinion...shield retainer...spring...pinion stop...hex nut. On the bottom are the through bolts. I should have read this sticker before I lightly tapped the starter with a hammer. Note to self...only tap on the end of the starter. Three pictures of what the inside magnet should look like and what some of it looks like now. I am going to clean it and put it back together. It may not work because of the broken magnet or it may have a dead spot. Better shots of the end cap with brushes...there is a spring under the brushes, which keep the brushes up against the bottom of the armature. The hard part in putting this back together, is to hold the brushes in place while trying to place the armature. I fabed up four clips out of sheet metal for this purpose. Place the frame over the armature...line up the bolt holes and put on the front end cap...bolt together. Only things left are the pinion, washers and spring, and hex nut. Now it should look like when I started, with no parts left over. Need to put it back on the tractor and hope. I do intend to switch out this starter, because of the broken magnet, but I may have bought a little time. Most of the starter problems on the Kohler engines can be fixed by taking off the starter and cleaning the shaft the pinion slides on with WD-40. When the pinion starts sticking, that's when you start wearing things out . You can usually see if the pinion is operating correctly just by looking down at the starter end. Hope you enjoyed and hope this will help some of you.
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1 pointIt does say Michigan seat. But I don't see any others labels. I was thinking about getting a chrome cup holder.
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1 pointHere is the manual for your mower. Mower Rotary 32in RD 1964-65 RM-324 #A-7137.pdf Mower Rotary 32in RD 1964-65 RM-324 #A-7137.pdf
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1 pointStallion brand is a good welding jacket and glove company. They are available at every welding store I have visited. Not that expensive either. I have the full coat version and the one that has an open back for when it is hot outside.
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1 point
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1 pointBy any chance cheese did the lights flicker when at full throttle? My 246 has the same, voltage reads high butturning the lights on drops it but it seems when the battery gets fully charged the lights flicker. Turning on the electric pto drops the voltage more as expected. Replaced the regulator a couple of years ago from a Toro dealer. I do seem to go thru batteries every 2-3 years so maybe I am over charging. I should check it will a multimeter...I only have a dozen of them.
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1 pointTHANK YOU TT I did bent it a little and it started and seams to run ok.it had me worried but it worked out ok (so far) now I have to get some hydraulic lines made up 1 has a small leak.
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1 pointOlder c series. Better sheet metal and a hood with a real latch IMHO.
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1 pointI would stack my 522xi up against most, its a pure brute. Eaton 1100 hi low range hydro, foot pedal control, and power steering. Its up to the task. Glenn
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1 pointTri-ribs for sure, and with weight. Because: (1) Wrapping a 'bicycle chain' around a tire is similar (as Dennis said), but the ti-rib rubber is about 1" wide and 1" high and will "dig in" to the snow much better, and without scratching pavement (as Brandon showed in his first photo). (2) Steering Control = keeping the tractor straight or making a turn with minimum sliding is what the high-center rib does, and having a lot of weight in front to keep the tire down on & in the snow is what is essential. (3) Having the snow thrower or blade down actually lightens the front end/wheels and as the rear tries dig in to move the tractor, it also lightens/lifts the front end, again reducing steering there, thus the need for extra weight (in the wheels and/or hanging on the front). With the implements up, we have great steering control because of the weight. Good tires and lot & lots of weight at the back tires will keep you moving, the front weights will keep you from getting into trouble via steering control. (4) I do use Lug tires on one Winter tractor and Tri-ribs on the second, Tri-ribs are much better. Also tire inflation as a noticeable factor, use 20#psi in the Winter on both front & back, less rubber on the ground ='s more traction (and Winter temperatures will drop 3-4 psi anyway in them).
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1 pointI have the 1967 Lawn Ranger with the snowblower all greased and ready for action. The 1961 Wheel Horse 701 with hydraulic pump is lifting the 1962 BD-4262 Snowplow! First time using the 701 and the Lawn Ranger is already a tested winter warrior.
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1 pointI've been here since November 14, 2006 when Chris (whchris) called me and asked me to join his fledgling website. Karl is right when he says its been a heck of a ride! We have weathered a few snags like almost loosing the whole site, been threatened legal action by a few disgruntled past members, (I think one even informed one of our Moderators that they were gonna get an azz-kicking!). But all of us that run the site have followed a strict set of rules that we established and revisit from time to time and I think we have a very tightly run forum that anyone of any age or gender can feel comfortable visiting and participating in. This place is a great success!! Mike...........
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1 pointAgree 100%. Now is better than later. That piece of quality built, American history that you are restoring will likely be around for a long time. With tubes in it, the only limitation is you can't drive on the highways.
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1 pointThanks for all the encouragement. this will be my first total teakardown and rebuild. I want to make sure it is done well. I have made a little more progress. I got detained because I had to do a little upgrade on my electrical system. Started blowing fuses so I added a couple 240 volt circuits and replaced the old fuse box. Now back to the fun stuff. I had finally started on the blast cabinet. I will start a new thread for the build.I have totally tore down the starter/gen and ordered new studs.I need to find a new bolt. One was rounded off.
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1 pointIf you take out one of the bolts on top, make sure you clean around it Very Good, you don`t want ANY dirt getting in the hydro!!!!!!
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