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10/14/2015 - 10/14/2015
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/14/2015 in all areas
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11 points
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8 points
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7 pointsI like this saying, ( If you have something bad to say about a farmer, don't talk with your mouth full. )
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3 pointsI got a Wheel Horse for my grandson, age 7½, since he has outgrown his powerwheels. It is a Ranger 800 and since it was in the garage beside my C125 I thought to take a few pics for comparison. It's had to believe that the Ranger is 10 years older than the C125. 1973 Ranger and 1983 C125.
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3 pointsIm probly going to be picking up a 520h with loader wheel weights, agg tires and weight box tomorrow. I'm just curious what you guys think. The good: Tractor runs good no smoke, knocking, doesn't bog. Hydraulics work as they should houses not cracked no leaks, very responsive hours arn't to bad at 850, The bad: It was stored outside so its not pretty paint on hood is faded, tires have some dry rot. PTO clutch lever pops up and the clutch disengages if you hold the lever down it works fine. The loader assembly is a bit sloppy and has some play, and there is some squealing when the bucket is curled down. Overall it's 20+ years old so I don't expect it to be pretty. Price is around $1700 What do you guys think? Thanks
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3 pointsThis has been a long time coming, but I think with snow season close...I will be loving this new driveway. I got to use the horses a little...like getting all the plants off the concrete, getting out the edging, and taking up the patio blocks. Time to rip it all up. Freddie Time for gravel. They let me try spreading with the horse when they took a break. It would have taken a lot longer. They start them out young. We had home made Tamales for lunch one day. They were fantastic. :) Time for the concrete. Finished and landscaped Put the patio back in and start unloading all the plants. Thanks for looking...19 yards of concrete. I can't wait to move snow off of it this year. We probably will not get any.
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3 pointsDrain the tank and clean it and install a new fuel line shut off valve (and bushing) in the tank. This is in addition to changing the fuel line and Seafoam use as Richard suggested. Make sure the engine fins are not clogged and the engine breather may need cleaning as well. Check the condition of the two 9 pin connectors (one goes to the engine, the other is up high behind the battery). They are prone to developing open circuits due to resistive (I^2R) heating at the connections. You can get replacements from Bob Maynard here on RS. Also, check the fuse holder, another location for open circuits also due to I^2R heating and well as proximity to the rear cylinder. All of these open circuits are the result of corrosion on the copper alloys. The WH engineers could have used tin plated wire and terminals on all electrical connections, but for some strange reason they did not. Enjoy your Onan. I like mine, but I also like the simplicity of Kohlers
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3 points
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2 pointsI don't know if it is ok to post this here but some sad news for us collectors. Bowtie, a Chevy man and fellow Wheel Horse collector passed away last month! He lived close by me here in Ohio, in Gahanna. Don't know if anybody else knew him but he had some nice stuff and it all got dispersed around. Thanks...Hammerhead
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2 pointsThere are SO many reasons this time of year is special. It's the time to transition from Summer Wheel Horses to Winter Duty. It is also the time when 2 major forum events happened. November 14, 2006 - RedSquare was started by whchris on a free service called Forumer, anyone remember whforum.15.forumer.com October 31, 2011 - We abruptly moved from Forumer to our current home. I often go back and look at the posts from those times and while RedSquare is so different today then it was then, there are STILL many of the same people here who helped make this what it is today. So at this important time of the year, as you get your machines ready for the new season, Thank You for being a member of RedSquare, it's been a heck of a ride and still going!
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2 pointsHello, I just bought my first Wheel Horse this past weekend. My brother-in-law new i needed a mower and found it through a friend. He educated me a little on Wheel Horses and told me this was a good buy. I paid 500 for the tractor and it also came with a trailer and a bagging system. I've got to go back and get the bagger this weekend. I'm starting to research my Horse to find out all i can. I know this is the '89 model. I'm looking for advice on maintaining and a little restoration. This thing has been sitting in a garage for two years. It started right up and ran for a while, but then shut off. I drained the gas and i'm gonna replace the fuel filter. It ran great before it shut off, no smoke, no noises, blades engaged and ran fine. I'm excited about this tractor and i'm looking forward to learning all i can about it.
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2 pointsbeen here a while,i do remember the orig format,and the big crash,but here we are and we need to thank all the people who keep the square running,thanks guys ,u guys are A1
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2 pointsI have always preferred a manual transmission,less parasitic power loss.
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2 pointsWelcome! As a fellow newbie, I can attest to Digger 66's comment - this forum is great for all things WH! great group of people with excellent advice... I would recommend becoming a supporter too. Just go to the "store" and click support. It's worth it... Enjoy!
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2 pointsI think most of us would agree that you should keep both of them. A 12 HP Kohler will run a snow blower with no problem and I have a personal preference for a rear discharge deck but that is just my opinion. Kohlers will last for ever, but the Brigs has been operating for 30 years +/- so you can't say it isn't durable. As you said, hydro and lift are great to have, guess you need to keep both!
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2 pointsPower Kings Kohlers are a special breed and a certain Spec# and other Kohlers just won't bolt up to the cast bell housing (similar to a car or truck with a flywheel. pressure plate, throw out...) and they are getting harder to find. I have had two of those rebuilt. Other Kohlers were bought while still sitting in the tractor. Just seems cheaper to buy a whole tractor than to rebuild an engine.
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2 points
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2 pointsI was just about to post that both of my attempts were no improvement over plain incandescent bulbs, but maybe $17 each would be! Gadds! From link below: A standard 1156 bulb puts out about 400 lumens when new. As of January 2010, I haven't found an LED replacement that puts out any more, and most are only 50 lumens or so, not enough for a standard 1156 housing.To confirm the above: From Bosch Automotive Handbook7th ed. a 1156 (BA15S) Stop/Turn 21W bulb puts out 460 lumens. For a 5W Side marker / Tail BA15S it is 50 lumens (strangely low, I know) and 10W Tail light 125 lumens. http://www.answers.com/Q/How_many_lumens_for_an_led_replacement_vs_stock_1156_bulb So these 800 lumen LEDs should be rather impressive! Price certainly is! Hey! Just noticed the price is indeed for a pair! I just ordered from Amazon!
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2 pointsWhen welding aluminum cleaning the area is very important. Take the engine apart prior to welding. Drill the end of the cracks to prevent further cracking and v-out the crack area. Depending on the material the metal may need to be preheated also.
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2 pointsWhoa nelly, are these your real picks or your pencil in picks??? Don't want to hear that excuse!! The Ka Sara bus left weeks ago!!! Did Koen save you any brewskies or donuts?? I think Jim said they were running low on just about everything, you better stock up. The basement without munchies is the pits!!! It's not very far to go before you won't be able to touch the top. Just think your favorite buds will be hanging out at the top going, Where's Dino???? As always, Go Hawkeyes!!!
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2 pointsI don't own a shop but here's the problem. Any place that overhauls an engine has to GUARENTEE it. Most shops don't have a complete machine shop so they send out the block,crank ect to be checked. The machine shop has to GUARENTEE it. So it's $$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!! We don't want to pay it. Many of us here and you have all seen the posts, open an engine, look at the bore -looks good and throw in some rings and maybe new valves and put it back together and it runs and we're happy and saved some money. The reality is, we don't really know how worn that engine is. Example: I bought a C-160 non runner a couple of years ago. It had carb issues so the guy parked it. I wanted to rebuild the motor as a spare for my current 160. I opened it up and things looked good. I took it to a friend of mine who builds kart engines for an opinion. He said the bore was out of round and needed boring and the crank was out of round and was all ready .010 undersized. Rod had numerous cracks which showed up on dye. He called a friend of his that does his machine work. I brought everything to him to double check. Crank couldn't be turned again. And bore was near limits and may need to be sleeved. Total estimate with machine work and parts was $700! That's not including gaskets or any reassembly labor. Remember this was a motor that to the naked eye of a guy that has been a mechanic for 30 yrs. looked good!
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2 points
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2 pointsHmmm... Five hours later and no response. I wonder what Steve's doing right now. CUBBIES AND THE MUG!!!!!!!!
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2 pointsI purchased replacement 1156 led bulbs which fit into the sockets on my 68 Commando from Autozone
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2 pointsBeen here less than a year, but I've been a member on enough other sites...tractors, atvs, snowmobiles, cars.... to know this is one of the best out there. So much information, such great people, very nicely run. Great site.
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2 pointsI need to know 4 things: What is the yellowish stuff? Why isn't there a closeup of the custom front hitch? It's design and perhaps a Sketch Up link? Who is the little fellow doing all the work? Who is the guy on the round hood dominating several of the shots? Oh! And tell the little guy, "Nice job!"!
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2 points
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2 points
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2 pointsHaven't got this picture posting down yet . Pics got out of order. I have 2 702's should be able to make a super nice 702 still missing gen flywheel cover,fuel pump stock coil . I have enough tin for one and it's all really strait. Couldn't make it to the rest of the RJ . I know the last one not the right color but if I could have one tractor it would be an AC D21. Couldn't get around my sons truck with my wheelchair . Here's the hoods. My cousin had a pic of the RJ from the add in which we bought it from. He's most likely a member , he had at least 25 tractors most of them early round hoods.
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2 pointsI saw the Ranger under a porch this spring. I went to visit an old Wheel Horse collector and he showed me his horses. He had 7 there at his house and a few someplace else. Well, he passed away this summer and his son asked me if there was anything I wanted. I told him about the little one under the porch. We settled on a price of $150. It's not NOS .... probably looks that way because everything above the frame is plastic. (grille, hood, console and rear fenders) No rust on any of those parts! Some of the frame and footrests have been repainted. And the motor is not original. I had to put points in the motor and clean and adjust the carb. The steering needed tightened up. Clutch and brake did not work. But it's all getting better. Ummmm ..... plow and chains??? I could get done in ½ the time! There is a mowing deck for the Ranger ....... Grandson mowing ...... possibly. But dragging the wagon around would be more fun.
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1 pointThis thread will cover in detail the history of how one 1965 model Wheel Horse garden tractor affected our family. This will be a back ground story thread that begins in the summer of 1975, before I was even born, and will go as long as it takes for us to finish a complete restification of this tractor to better than new condition. If you aren't into detailed stories, you probably won't enjoy this thread. My dad has receipts for parts that he purchased for this tractor over thirty years ago! I intend on scanning those and including pictures, lots of pictures. We lovingly call this tractor the "Iron Horse" because it is built tough out of a block of iron and it was a work horse in our family for many years! I have so many memories of this machine but I intend on including excerpts from my parents and brother in this story. They often used it as much as I did! Feel free to comment as much as you like and ask any questions that you may have along the way. I'm really excited to open another chapter in the history of this machine and our family, hopefully one my children can enjoy. A third generation embracing the Iron Horse... Then Now Future...?
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1 pointStill working on the rj but decided to put a little lawn display together of fall colours. Enjoy and Happy Thanksgiving to all Canadian RS members
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1 pointCheck for battery voltage at the coil (+) terminal with the key in the RUN position. Should still have battery voltage while running the starter motor. Check the coil (-) terminal voltage. When the points are closed you need 0 volts. When the points are open you need battery voltage. As you are running the starter the points should open and close giving you 0 volts and then battery voltage for every 2 turns of the crankshaft. The 0 volts will be for a longer period than the battery voltage period. Even a test light will work. Garry
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1 point
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1 pointMike this is a cast iron block. Im hoping to not even remove the motor from the machine let alone completely disassemble it. This is not any sort of stress crack on anything structural so further cracking should not be an issue. I cracked it by over tightening the 1/16" NPT fitting. JB water weld? ive never heard of water weld. Are you suggesting that would be a good fix for this? When welding aluminum cleaning the area is very important. Take the engine apart prior to welding. Drill the end of the cracks to prevent further cracking and v-out the crack area. Depending on the material the metal may need to be preheated also. KT 17s do NOT have cast iron blocks( crankcases) The are Aluminum alloy of some type.
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1 pointtri-ribs will probably steer the best in snow, but if you need all around versatility without digging ruts in soft ground, get vredestein V61's (i am using V61's). They have multiple biting edges when steering and spread the weight out to not dig ruts. Yes, front weights make a HUGE difference in being able to steer the plow when you are pushing hundreds of pounds of snow. This year I plan on loading my fronts with RV antifreeze (rears are already loaded) in addition to running front and rear wheel weights. Tri-Ribs: V61's:
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1 point
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1 pointI used to use chains sometimes...I will not be using them this year. We use the driveway for too many things, blacktop would be way too hot in the summer. It is already sealed and I intend to use the blower more this year. The little guy is the son of the guy in the yellow/green shirt in the same picture. He was crawling all over my horses and I let his dad take him for a ride on the 702 around the block. Dennis, the yellow stuff is gravel also...it just came out of a different yard...it was Saturday. Here is the link on that front hitch... http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/47635-pushpull-b-100/#comment-438983
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1 point
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1 pointNORTHWESTERN, WISCONSIN, RUTGERS, MICHIGAN ST., NEBRASKA, OHIO ST. NOTRE DAME
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1 point@bean yes the 8" front cast Wheel Horse weights fit nicely in the backs of the lawn rangers.
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1 pointYep, well mostly. New Holland contracted with Toro to buy blue versions of their 518xi (GT18), 520lxi (GT20), 520xi (GT20A), and 522xi (GT22/GT22A, not sure what the differences there were) If you check out tractor data for those models, it will say "Manufacturer: Toro" I am assuming toro probably built them and painted them and just sold them directly like that. The models and accessories are identical except for the paint and stickers... So if you can find New Hollands cheaper, then you have a Horse of a Different Color!
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1 pointTwo or three of these are flip a coin games. Iowa. Wisconsin, Indiana, Michigan State, Minnesota, Ohio State, NOTRE DAME
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1 pointNew member, fist time posting... I am about to begin (again) restoring a 66 or 67 lawn ranger. There's, what I think, a good story behind the tractor. My grandfather traded a VW for the tractor back in the 60's, after my father begged him to, so he could make some money mowing and plowing in the neighborhood. I'm not exactly sure if the tractor was new or a few years old when they got it. After a few years, and my dad moving on from that phase, my grandfather continued to use the tractor for several years around his yard until finally selling it to a family friend. In the mid to late 90's (I was about 10-12 years old), the family friend was in poor health and was getting rid of everything he owned and came across the tractor, knew it originally belonged to my family and contacted us to see if we wanted it back. So we took it and me and my father began restoring it. Things happened and the restoration got put on hold. Today the tractor sits, partially restored, in my fathers shed, buried under several layers of junk and other projects. I plan on soon digging it out, and continuing the restoration. The tractor has the mower deck, plow and wheel chains, all of which are in fairly good condition. Anyways, just thought I'd share my story. Hopefully, most of my questions have already been answered, but if not, I know exactly where to go. Any advice on the project would be greatly appreciated.
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1 pointKen, I am a big fan of Lexol leather conditioner. In fact, it was the 1st thing I did to when I got it home. I think I am up to about 8 treatments so far on the seat and steering wheel. That seat leather was dry.....each time I go back it is softer and softer. I think am a couple of applications away from having it where it is got enough moisture back into the seat. As far as plans....I think I am just going to put my 5K watt generator on the front and let my kids ride it around from time to time.....maybe a couple of local parades. In fact, my 6 year old daughter and my 11 year son have about 3x the seat time on it versus me. In general, I am guessing I will put 5-10 hours on it a year. Enough to keep the fuel system working properly and enough to appreciate the extra work it will take to keep it in good shape. It may also pull around my 18 cubic foot dump cart. Thad (Ohio) Thad
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1 pointHi Paul, 2500 degree, (yea, right), ceramic Rust-oleum in a plain Jane metallic/aluminum finish. I cured it in one of our drying ovens where I work! I don't know how well it will hold up. I just need to do the wheels, change out the tires and get my seat back. I have some orange peel on the paint job but it's a lot better than some I have seen! I'll post a pic of the re-upholstered seat when I get it back.
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1 point1968 Commando 8 1964 604 and 1968 500 Special 1964 604 1968 500 Special
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1 point
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1 pointA picture of my wh in original condition after 36 years it looks like this ..... it is a raider 10 from 75 Greetings Lars from Norway
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1 point