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Had some wheel barrow work to do so I got the wheel barrow out. It is dirty and needs a good cleaning too. Marvin

Spray that valve now with some PB blaster, Kroil, etc because chances are if its never been opened it won't want to now!

Came home to find my $5.00 Chinese carb came today... finally, was able to get the little Techy to do more than just pop off. Now, we just need to get the choke/ throttle cables, and fuel tank set up... and this Special 500 will be back to doing some business.

Somebody here has been watching too many old black and white Andy Griffith Show reruns LOL

That beer would have come alot earlier for me! LOL, Glad you got it off without any other damage.

I think the really weird thing is that someone would pay 400 for it and not be a true WH junkie meaning not a member here??? Or maybe he is and just not goin to fess up that he had to pay that for an orginal? Where do you come up with them awesome pics and even awesomer tractors AMC??? You either got wayyyyy too much money or time on yer hands!!!

plow size is measured from the landside(the side that is up against the land when in a furrow) to the edge of the mouldboard(the big curvy bit) measuring across

I'm new to this forum and just recently got my first 300 series wheel horse 310-8 and I love it. Yours looks nice to me and you got a great deal! Good luck with it.

I buy my hose (1/4") from McMaster they have been sending Gates Brand made in USA. Should las as long as anything can. I buy a box of hose clamps (worm style) Size 04 (7/32-5/8") stainless steel. Also put in fuel filters and shut off valves near the filters.

If you send me your address in a PM, I will send you one for nothing. Fastenal has them, but you need to buy 25 for about $5. Up to you. It's in the mail, you should get it Monday.

You Won!!!!!

I'm sorry Van, but it just scares me when some bad ideas are sometimes presented. It's just like the Democrats vs the Republicans...if you say something enough it becomes true in the mind of those that do not know better. Sawdust would be better....I can't believe I just said that. Do it right the first time. That's the ticket.

Hey Paul, It appears your side extensions are not installed correctly. The leading short bend should be parallel to the sides of the blower housing. If you reverse them, the blower should cut through and feed the snow to the auger much more efficiently.

HAH!! boy these horses can have some stuck on pieces - steering wheel/hubs come to mind. I had a hub in a situation similar to yours - I had got to the point where I said (between a lot of *&%#&^) that I was gonna get that *&%*^$ piece of &^%** off if it killed me!! I had the slot cut in it like you and it still wouldnt budge, I ended up cutting a 45 degree chunk out and it finally came off -- dangest thing. Course axle was ruined too...

I have destroyed 4 pullers this past summer, So I feel your pain. As I restore my GT14, I am polishing every shaft and dosing with liberal amounts of anti-seize, Does not help those of us repairing or restoring now but should I ever need to pull pulleys, hubs or flywheels in the future or should someone else do so, it should make life a lot easier.

Very nice looking tractor! Nice find. On your s/g, after seeing mine on the inside I would recommend taking it apart and clean real good then determine if more is needed. It's easy to do and then you know what you have.

Augers can be tough to straighten but I straightened 2 last year with a good sized rose bud torch we have here at work with the blower assembled and on my tractor. It was nice that way because after it cooled I could turn the blower on to check how it ran. My suggestion would be to move the tall chute to the good blower housing with good auger. I picked up a tall chute blower last year without the chute so I ended up making myself 2 different chutes. Once I had the extra chute I decided to cut off my short chute and replace it. With a cutoff wheel on my grinder I cut the chute off and left about 1 inch on the bottom rotating piece, lined up the taller chute and marked the holes, drilled them out and mounted it. You might even be able to change over the gear rotation assembly but there is no need to if the original wire rotation is working properly. Here is a pic of the giant chute I made and used all year last year. Surprisingly I never took a photo of the short chute that I made a tall chute. I did pick up an actual tall chute at the end of this summer so I will probably do some chute rearranging again this year.

I have an 8 speed. I must say I have not seen to many myself either. My property is pretty hilly so I really don't ever run it. I have been tossing around the idea of letting it go to a new home.... maybe lol

Mine is the same year, engine and trans. Starts easy and runs like a top! I do like the sound of that twin. Even at idle, it sounds like a farm tractor One thing I had to do right away was install an electric fuel pump. The cam must be worn that operates the fuel pump lever so the engine would run itself out of gas quickly. For under $20 with the pump (ebay), fusable link (auto parts store), and a relay that i had from a mustang it works great!

OK I have just bitten the bullet, I have purchased the piston, lets hope I don't **** it up putting it all back together. If I had bought the kit complete from the begining I could have saved quite a considerable sum. Ain't hind site wonderful thing?

@HorseFixer That was really slick! Hope you make it to the big show, this would be amazing there as well!

This is the planned finished model:

Bob, that video was a joy to watch, and your choice of music was a perfect fit for the camaradrie evident there.

OK Steve, that post has been edited LOL I don't want to be banned from owning a Wheel Horse, that would be more than I could bear! Please don't take away my right to keep and bear Wheel Horses ! That is an amendment to the US Constitution isn't it?

I couldn't be there, but thanks to Stevasuarus, I got my "Indiana" on today.

Chris, is was great meeting you at Scott's. There has to be kind of a group photo floating around here somewhere.

Chris, It was a real pleasure getting a chance to meet you and I am very honored that you would take the time and resources to spend the day with us. Our conversations were great and I am glad you stopped by on Friday so that we could have a chance to chat a bit. I am glad you made it home safely and are even considering coming back next year, we would love to have you. That 400 you picked up traveled a bunch of miles in a few short days. It started in the back of a truck in Missouri, headed to our show up in Northern Indiana, and then hopped in your truck and made it all the way back down in Florida!!!! I had a great time with everyone and am thankful for the folks that want to spend the day with us.........Year #7 has to be good weather right????? :)

John Burly, in the past, has had them reproduced. He's offered them in two versions, cast iron, and aluminum. Both versions come with, or without handles...and I don't think either of 'em started at $150...just sayin.

A few weeks back, a RS member had a front tine dethatcher for sale in the classifieds. It really was a JD dethatcher, but painted WH red. I thought about buying it, but all of the front tine dethatchers I had seen had a manual lift that was somewhat difficult to use. Now, if you could attach the dethatcher to the lift already on the tractor, that would be worth having. Given that I probably would have to invest $100 or so in materials and fab cost, I decided to prowl CL and I came upon a FREE dethatcher. It was a bit smaller than the JD attachment, but the price was right. I had to add a rod to the front mount bracket so it would engage the front tach-a matic and get a pivot bracket built to accept a snowblower lift rod. To keeps costs down during welding (since I cannot do it myself), I decided to use the lift rod from my single stage xi blower (which has a horizontal fitting at the end and is shorter than a classic blower lift rod) and the lift flag from a classic blower. The only error I made was that I designed the pivot bracket directly on the center of the tractor (like it is on the xi),not remembering that on classic tractors, the rockshaft for the blower is offset from center. The 1/2 inch clevis pin would not go thru so I substituted a 3/8 bolt. The pix below show it mounted on my 314. It works like a dream, just don't try to make a turn with it in the down position-it behaves like a blower does when turning. Total cost when I was done? $100; $55 for the steel cut to size, $40 for welding, and $5 for the shaft collars.

I got my Wheel Horse No Name 10 a cpl. months ago. It came with 62 lb. home made wheel weights. I took them off, cleaned all the rust, painted them and made some decals. I used 1/8" pinstripe tape and ran a pinstripe around the outside then clear-coated them. Not too bad.

Got an ark welder? Run a heavy bead around in the ball groove and when it cools the bearing will fall out. Garry Adding - The last couple I did I used a mig welder set at the high end. If the race turns red hot you got it right.

Hey Paul, It appears your side extensions are not installed correctly. The leading short bend should be parallel to the sides of the blower housing. If you reverse them, the blower should cut through and feed the snow to the auger much more efficiently. Thanks Ed and good eye. I don't have my blowers home currently but I'll remember to check that and make sure it's right.

I don't think that Raider 10 was made after 1972, but if it is a 1970, 71, or 72, take a look here. http://www.redoyourhorse.com/1970-71-72-raider-sets/ Oh, and

Steve, Just a bad joke!

Congrats on winning that battle Gary! So I gotta ask....why did it HAVE TO come off? Mike........

of that 400!!!!!

Tommy... The mechanical temp gauge for the hydro temp will NOT work. Been there tried that. The bulb (sending unit if you will) is to long to fit into the hydro pump housing.

snowthrowers take such abuse. It would be a shame to spend days grinding it, just to have it rust again in a few years. I vote sandblast and powdercoat or POR 15. That's what I plan to do after one more season. It will cost, but it should last for decades.

Well done Bob!! Bringing the meet and greet to Redsquare. First rate videos!!

That was great, thanks!

Take it to your local industrial sandblaster place. mike

Here is the location of the PUSH VALVE on an earlier 16hp Auto....same location for the C-160 and C-121 etc...but tuffer to get to...

Nice find! Just got my first automatic and its been a lot of fun. Greg

Thank you, Is there any chance you could send a pic or two...? My number is 7204345626, I'm in Denver. If you could/would send your number I have some pics of my set up on my phone.

Probaly already had some in his coffee cup......

Here is what happens.. Some guy really wanted it and his PayPal account had the dough in it, probably from small stuff he sold that he really didn't care about so he stepped up. I have no issue with that. Here's the problem, now every clown out there thinks that is what they are now worth. Doubt that, at the end of the day its just a giant paper weight.

I added the snow plow to it and its pretty sweet with hydro lift Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I have been helped by folks I never knew several times.

For example...

Here is a Video that my buddy took of me plowing today! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwE592s-tDw I guess I don't know how to insert the video like bmsgaffer did. Hopefully you will be able to click the link and watch it.