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Had some wheel barrow work to do so I got the wheel barrow out. It is dirty and needs a good cleaning too. Marvin

Spray that valve now with some PB blaster, Kroil, etc because chances are if its never been opened it won't want to now!

Came home to find my $5.00 Chinese carb came today... finally, was able to get the little Techy to do more than just pop off. Now, we just need to get the choke/ throttle cables, and fuel tank set up... and this Special 500 will be back to doing some business.

Somebody here has been watching too many old black and white Andy Griffith Show reruns LOL

That beer would have come alot earlier for me! LOL, Glad you got it off without any other damage.

I think the really weird thing is that someone would pay 400 for it and not be a true WH junkie meaning not a member here??? Or maybe he is and just not goin to fess up that he had to pay that for an orginal? Where do you come up with them awesome pics and even awesomer tractors AMC??? You either got wayyyyy too much money or time on yer hands!!!

plow size is measured from the landside(the side that is up against the land when in a furrow) to the edge of the mouldboard(the big curvy bit) measuring across

I'm new to this forum and just recently got my first 300 series wheel horse 310-8 and I love it. Yours looks nice to me and you got a great deal! Good luck with it.

I buy my hose (1/4") from McMaster they have been sending Gates Brand made in USA. Should las as long as anything can. I buy a box of hose clamps (worm style) Size 04 (7/32-5/8") stainless steel. Also put in fuel filters and shut off valves near the filters.

If you send me your address in a PM, I will send you one for nothing. Fastenal has them, but you need to buy 25 for about $5. Up to you. It's in the mail, you should get it Monday.

You Won!!!!!

I'm sorry Van, but it just scares me when some bad ideas are sometimes presented. It's just like the Democrats vs the Republicans...if you say something enough it becomes true in the mind of those that do not know better. Sawdust would be better....I can't believe I just said that. Do it right the first time. That's the ticket.

Hey Paul, It appears your side extensions are not installed correctly. The leading short bend should be parallel to the sides of the blower housing. If you reverse them, the blower should cut through and feed the snow to the auger much more efficiently.

HAH!! boy these horses can have some stuck on pieces - steering wheel/hubs come to mind. I had a hub in a situation similar to yours - I had got to the point where I said (between a lot of *&%#&^) that I was gonna get that *&%*^$ piece of &^%** off if it killed me!! I had the slot cut in it like you and it still wouldnt budge, I ended up cutting a 45 degree chunk out and it finally came off -- dangest thing. Course axle was ruined too...

I have destroyed 4 pullers this past summer, So I feel your pain. As I restore my GT14, I am polishing every shaft and dosing with liberal amounts of anti-seize, Does not help those of us repairing or restoring now but should I ever need to pull pulleys, hubs or flywheels in the future or should someone else do so, it should make life a lot easier.

Very nice looking tractor! Nice find. On your s/g, after seeing mine on the inside I would recommend taking it apart and clean real good then determine if more is needed. It's easy to do and then you know what you have.

Augers can be tough to straighten but I straightened 2 last year with a good sized rose bud torch we have here at work with the blower assembled and on my tractor. It was nice that way because after it cooled I could turn the blower on to check how it ran. My suggestion would be to move the tall chute to the good blower housing with good auger. I picked up a tall chute blower last year without the chute so I ended up making myself 2 different chutes. Once I had the extra chute I decided to cut off my short chute and replace it. With a cutoff wheel on my grinder I cut the chute off and left about 1 inch on the bottom rotating piece, lined up the taller chute and marked the holes, drilled them out and mounted it. You might even be able to change over the gear rotation assembly but there is no need to if the original wire rotation is working properly. Here is a pic of the giant chute I made and used all year last year. Surprisingly I never took a photo of the short chute that I made a tall chute. I did pick up an actual tall chute at the end of this summer so I will probably do some chute rearranging again this year.

I have an 8 speed. I must say I have not seen to many myself either. My property is pretty hilly so I really don't ever run it. I have been tossing around the idea of letting it go to a new home.... maybe lol

Mine is the same year, engine and trans. Starts easy and runs like a top! I do like the sound of that twin. Even at idle, it sounds like a farm tractor One thing I had to do right away was install an electric fuel pump. The cam must be worn that operates the fuel pump lever so the engine would run itself out of gas quickly. For under $20 with the pump (ebay), fusable link (auto parts store), and a relay that i had from a mustang it works great!

OK I have just bitten the bullet, I have purchased the piston, lets hope I don't **** it up putting it all back together. If I had bought the kit complete from the begining I could have saved quite a considerable sum. Ain't hind site wonderful thing?

@HorseFixer That was really slick! Hope you make it to the big show, this would be amazing there as well!

This is the planned finished model:

Bob, that video was a joy to watch, and your choice of music was a perfect fit for the camaradrie evident there.

OK Steve, that post has been edited LOL I don't want to be banned from owning a Wheel Horse, that would be more than I could bear! Please don't take away my right to keep and bear Wheel Horses ! That is an amendment to the US Constitution isn't it?

I couldn't be there, but thanks to Stevasuarus, I got my "Indiana" on today.

Chris, is was great meeting you at Scott's. There has to be kind of a group photo floating around here somewhere.

Chris, It was a real pleasure getting a chance to meet you and I am very honored that you would take the time and resources to spend the day with us. Our conversations were great and I am glad you stopped by on Friday so that we could have a chance to chat a bit. I am glad you made it home safely and are even considering coming back next year, we would love to have you. That 400 you picked up traveled a bunch of miles in a few short days. It started in the back of a truck in Missouri, headed to our show up in Northern Indiana, and then hopped in your truck and made it all the way back down in Florida!!!! I had a great time with everyone and am thankful for the folks that want to spend the day with us.........Year #7 has to be good weather right????? :)

John Burly, in the past, has had them reproduced. He's offered them in two versions, cast iron, and aluminum. Both versions come with, or without handles...and I don't think either of 'em started at $150...just sayin.

This pulley was frozen on the shaft so bad that no heat would budge it after half way. They key was free set pin was out. So it was on the shaft to pulley. This was left out side. I had to use the chisels just to get to move a puller was no help. Once I got it out a way I used a blocks of would to take up the space. But still would not move past half way. So I decide to cut it. Once I had cut back a way using a block of wood [see marks on wood] under the pulley I used the biggest chisel to open it up. Then it finally came off. Beer time on this one. WWWOOOWWW.

A Fram G1 filter will fit those fuel lines Front wheel weights are only about 25 lbs each. Might not be enough. If you plan to do a bunch of plowing, I'd mount a front bracket for suitcase weights. Front wheel weights are also hard to come by, and very expensive

Any of us could buy one of the re-pops, leave it out in the weather for a year, and sell it on Evil-bay for $400 now! AMC does have some sweet tractors!

The gas tank shut off has a filter built into it I guess they thought it was enough Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I'm really liking that bright pump on the black frame (and the black frame in general) I can't wait to see how this one turns out!

Concerning the sprockets and bearings. Those OEM bearings are not made anymore for those bearing plates. The 3/4 in . shaft bearings are available with new style plates that have two holes instead of three, wink. To remove the sprocket off the auger you will have to use a torch to cut the welds. The new 30 T # 40 chain sprocket is available at bearing suppliers but with a 3/4 hole, wink. The auger tube is 1 7/8 O.D. . My buddy bored the hole out to 1 7/8 on a lathe. The auger bearings are available as is the # 40 chain. Getting the auger bearings removed can be daunting, at least the first one.

Now stop that!

Sawdust would deff. Quieten it down.....for awhile.

Pullstart, if you ever see Steve NOT smiling then you know he needs another refreshment

Great find!

Didn't the old time used car dealers use saw dust? I'm pretty sure that or draining all the oil out would stop the leak!

Glad to hear you made it back ok. Now just set back and wait for the first snow. That 400 has a lot of miles on it as I told you. Started out in north west Ohio and made at least 5 trips to Minnesota and a few local shows as well. Have fun with it.

Wonder if Steveasaurus ever got his rock n rye... great videos!

That is Cool Stuff. A different view I would say. Nice job .Gary B...

Based on that picture.... I think those spindles would be fine with bearings. The Bearings will run on the outer most edge (doesn't look worn there) and about 1 inch inward of the inner flange. You might save yourself some cash and try bearings before buying more spindles??? If the worn spot is still an issue, I'd even try some liquid metal and filing before replacing. Using those oiled brass bushings for spindle bearings was a terrible idea by WH. I'll get some pictures of my setup tonight after work for you. Edit-Adding pictures of my setup. I double checked and my brass spacers are 3/8" thick cut from the original oil brass bushings. Just used a bench vise and hacksaw/sawzall.

They wanted a peek inside that shed!

Sometimes the sending unit for a gauge will work exactly opposite than what's needed for the gauge because of what brand it is. I used to work at a Napa and we had a customer that built seaweed sucking machines for all along the great lakes. They always used Stewart Warner gauges and a certain sender part #. Well Napa dropped SW for a while and the substitute for it was VDO. They were installing these senders on the bottom of the tank. They filled the 250 gal diesel tank and then found out that VDO gauge still read empty. They drained the tank (They weren't happy ) and now the gauge went to full. They really wern't happy about getting that smelly sender out of the tank and having to replace it with a totally different sender so they found another place to get SW. As a side note, the shop burn't down one night with a just completed unit inside full of diesel. Place was an 1/8 mile from my house. Night sky looked like the 4th of July!

Love the Tecky Chain!

The transmission gears do all look real good. All of the needle bearings will tap out with a good brass or steel punch...some times, I can pop them out with the right size 1/2 drive socket and an extension (put the extension in the socket from the inside...ie...use the back of the socket as an arbor). I have had luck popping out the #1533 bearing with an air chisel...hit the trigger once and she pops right out. They do make a bearing puller that you may be able to buy at someplace like Harbor Freight....we have some threads on the puller. Mike (racinfool40) does have good, used #1533 bearings...and he will sell you one if that is all you need. Send him a PM. Open up that 10 pinion differential, ya big chicken!! Looks like you have the aluminum caps differential. If there is anything that is not good in that trans...it is in the differential. Don't forget to replace those nuts when you put the differential back together.

Here it is! Where do I find the serial number so we can figure out what year this bird is? I was told 1990 but according to my searches on here the decals look to be more like 1994-5... I love the look of this tractor, even on its unkept state. So, as I'm loaded and getting ready to leave, I ask the owner what it takes to use garden implements on this tractor. He begins to explain about the Brinly adapter hitch. He tells me that he used to have one for this tractor but he sold it. He opens a cabinet in the back of the shop and there it is!!! He says, "I guess I still have it. You can have it if you want it!" I like it for three bills!!!

Do you have decals made for the Ark Loader? The 550 and the Caution label for the loader. Thanks Edwroy

Terry I have a w/h tractor i need decals for. It is not the normal w/h here are a few pics. Just need hood decals maybe you have something already made up. Not much room on back for anything to big. Let me know if you have any ideas. thanks Karl stohry phone # 1-765-525-7105 e-mail ksstohry@tds.net