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Dad helped me out big time by running and grabbing this beauty for me. I have been unable to get away as preparation for the meet and greet is in full swing. I really don't want anymore, but when it is on your bucket list, you go for it. Looks to be in pretty good shape, minus the hole in the deck. I am really only going after the low production number models or ultra collectibles at this point. This will fit nicely in to the collection!

I met Bowtieguy/Frank today in Springfield and he brought me this C-175 auto its in pretty good shape no knocks or smoke i know the series 1 kt17 can be a time bomb but this one seems good it ran kinda ruff at first but it ended up being pretty much out of gas after that it ran good the steering is stiff but the trans is very strong and the deck works well and i added a metal seat pan i think i might see if my brother wants it so i can get my 314H back.

So another horse followed me home tonight. This time a 1966 wheel horse 1076. This is my first wheel a matic tractor and I must say, it is pretty nice. It also came with a deck, push blade, and wagon. Wagon is pretty rusty, but he did throw in some extra parts. I even had the trailer I hauled it on thrown in on the deal and just had to pay title transfer. It was a good day lol!

our mother asked us if we could come up with a faster method for peeling apples so we came up with this one spade drillbit a tub and a peeler. and a drillpress on low speed

There are 2 reasons for the regulator terminal to see battery voltage. First is the regulator is powered by DC voltage so it needs to be turned on to control the current it passes to the battery. Second is if the DC terminal does not see battery voltage it means it is not connected to the battery so it can charge it. Best way to cover all models and wiring systems is to turn the key on but the engine not running. See if you have battery voltage at the DC terminal. Garry

Racinbob said: Steve, my vote goes for taking them out, win or lose. Bob, don't take this seriously. I seem to have lost my partner in crime. I set out with Steve to stir the pot and get some excitement going in here and he was going to help with that but he must be otherwise occupied. I think Chris hid all his Rock and Rye awhile back and he must have found it. It could be weeks before we hear from him again. Lighten up fellas, nobody's going anywhere.

Makes sense. The 180A 220v model is $150 more, plus another hundred for the 220 line, and it is basically the same welder, just puts out 40A more. If I need something welded over 1/4" thick, I'll pay someone. The big benefit you will derive is a better duty cycle, the lower price welders are going to require a 45 minute nap after 15 minutes of work. Come to think of it I guess I have a twenty five percent duty cycle too!

It was just a pile of straps until you put them in hue-sequence (ROYGBIV) color-coded order... THAT'S when it became a problem--i mean-- collection...

I have actually used JB weld as filler 3 different times now and its worked great! It goes on just like bondo and actually sands off pretty easily with an orbital sander. I did a thread a few months ago of a deck repair I did for a co worker and referenced how I used JB weld as filler. Hes been using it this whole season and as far as I know its holding up just fine. As far as fixing them or leaving them I say fix them! If you are putting in the time to make it look nice once again the dents may bug you, and if you do indeed miss the dents once youre done you could always just whack it with a hammer and put them back . I fixed up and painted a 312 of mine a few years ago and fixed a big dent in the front of the hood but didn't realize there were 4 minor ones on the top of the hood. They didn't get filled and they bug me to this day. I have tried to work them out but with no success im worried I will mess up the paint or make more dents and essentially make it look worse.

A electric lift would make it perfect Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

225 units in 1990.

No, but I do have a 1972 Honda SL100 in my Van cave with a teddy bear sitting on the seat LOL (sorry no pic of that)

Nice score... seat just needs a little help.

I'm no expert but that looks like a strap collection to me.

For example...

" i know the series 1 kt17 can be a time bomb". Only if you use it on steep inclines or let it run out of oil. Otherwise they are as rock solid as any of the others. CAUTION: Do not operate engine continuously at an angle exceeding 20° in any direction, or for more than 5 minute intervals at angles up to 30° in any direction-as engine damage may result from lack of sufficient lubrication. The C-175 is a beast. That one is a beauty and would get a stall in my barn.

Probably be even faster... if you put the camera down, and helped Koen.

And an 8 speed too! My envy continues to grow! I may need professional help...

aah dutch veggies

Hydro pedal peg welded onto frame, front welds beefed up, prepped, primed. Also have 1st coat of finish paint on it. So barring bumps in road, should have a rolling chassis this weekend as planned.

"Van cave"

If I'm still breathin I'll make it there!!

Love the 520's and the rare 8 speed what a great find , enjoy!

Imagine a 500 with a dash like this. This is on Bud's Shep

...or... expand... like gas.

You did have a good day. Nice find, BUT that seat has to go!

A wire wheel is not enough, you have to acid prep rust to kill it. Then prime it. A guy at work suggested using old fashioned lead for filler...

The wife says I cant have them all , but if I can get them home before she see them its all good right ?

Thanks Thor27. Nice of you to notice Seriously, I was gonna wait until I had the Cam straightened out but I have a lot of time it getting this thing cleaned up, primed, painted and axles polished. I spent close to an hour with steel brush, brass brush and emory wheel to polish the axle shafts. They were less than appealing and one side required the 10 ton puller to break the hub free, I plan on having this tractor until I no longer am around and want to be able to get the hubs off without the same struggle in future. So Polished them and when hubs go on, so will anti-seize. As I am not trying to win a show with mine, I am doing my GT14 with black frame and Hydro with Red Body. As opposed to all red. To me, it almost looks like some tractors are dipped in red vat:)

You have to watch out for low flying planes at Bud's! I shot a video of the ride on Ol Shep. It appears fine on my desktop, but for some reason it played sideways. That's how Youtube recorded it also. I don't see any way to fix it. So here it is. Don't hurt your necks!

digital volt meter or an Hour meter or one which has both maybe Those old amp meters shake the needle so much they are about worthless.

I hope God blesses you with good weather this weekend, all of us on the East coast will be getting a lot of shop time rather than seat time. Since we won't be out and about it is doubly important that you take lots of pictures and post them.

Is the sending unit the one that came with the gauge? Is the gauge wiring the same as the instructions for the gauge? I know that reading instructions is not the manly thing to do but it can be important.

I recently used a 12 pt socket to remove these same bolts.

please share, there's probably a ton of guy's out there who wan't to know how to even apply bondo( i know i wanna know) anyway i'd like to be educated I suppose what I was offering is to try to have some answers, offering a course would be nice but sadly time just won't allow it and this really is a tough media to cover everything... I would have little idea how to teach someone to just hammer and dolly through a forum. Hands on I could help someone in minutes! Same with the rest but I can at least help here and there and perhaps point folks where to get more. Eastwood.com is a great site to gather some help and at least look at some tools and supplies. Autobody is such a collection and combination of skills that there is a reason why it takes years to master them all! And like so many skills, it's all in the details!

please share, there's probably a ton of guy's out there who wan't to know how to even apply bondo( i know i wanna know) anyway i'd like to be educated

If you are going to weld structural steel, 1/4" and up you need POWER! 220v. 3/16" and less you might be just fine with the 110. 1/8" and less, I think you would be quite happy! I LOVE my little HF because I can grab it and go most anywhere and weld little stuff for cheap! If I was in business I wouldn't show up with a HF but for what little I have to do it's a bargain! Not sure what your needs are but my point is that 110 will travel! With the 220 your work will most likely have to come to it!

Wow, nice find! How many hours? Mind if I ask where he/you found it? Always amazed at the interesting places people find the most amazing tractors / deals.

So if they win, you'll throw em out, right?

Now I am waffling between the 140A (110v) and the 180 A (220v). My my thinking is that for $100 more now, plus the cost of running a new line, I will have a welder capable of whatever I might consider welding, vs having to upgrade down the road at full cost. Am I nuts?

I talked to Linder last night. She too thinks it best to postpone the event. Right now we are looking at the weekend of Oct 17th. What do you guys think about that? Will that work for you?

But you see you stand a 50% chance as do I this will just be another plus in my picks. Just another lose for you. I'll take my chance with the Hawkeyes but it's like who didn't know that. Notre Dame pick really isn't that big of deal. If they were to join a conference I have to feel it would be the Big Ten. As always, Go Hawkeyes!!!!!!

Yeah, one of the leading culprits in backfiring is often a leaky muffler/exhaust, especially near where the pipe comes out of the block. Did you remove the muffler when you removed the engine? Or if not did you maybe move it a bit? If it lost is seal and is able to pull air in, the excess oxygen mixing with the hot unused fuel leaving the chamber will ignite and ---- boom!

You will have the most satisfactory finished work by but welding the patch flush with the hood. The undermount and fill with bondo method will not do well when the sun hits it. The different materials will expand and contract a different rates and it will show up every time. Eastwood has some neat clamps for holding pieces to be butt welded. A set of 4 will cost $13 plus shipping, these really work. http://www.eastwood.com/intergrip-panel-clamps-set-of-4.html

There's so many levels of repairs that it's hard to cover everything in one paragraph. Making it look better for awhile to restoring it better than original depends on time, dollars and expectations. Working machine or show piece! I'd be happy to share what I know but keep in mind there's a very wide range of how to do things, not to mention varying opinions and results, and not to mention that while my knowledge has pretty much stood still the industry has thankfully progressed! Better products today than what I had to work with!

We are definitely down to the point where we will have to make some "off the wall" picks and hope you win those in order to advance in the standings. The first several weeks is where you want to do well and use that advantage to help carry you through some of the inevitable upsets that will occur. So hat's off to you guys that picked em right early on. I wasn't one of you so it only gets tougher for me from here on out. You can always tell the guys who lagged behind early by their picks later on. They get a little crazy.

I'm thinking that I would trade you for a nice day...I happen to have one here today.

The front axle can be reamed out to 7/8 and fitted with bronze bushings 3/4 ID x 7/8 OD for the spindles A 7/8 construction reamer works well which just fits in your drill

A hammer and dolly that fits the area is your first best friend! Then fill with autobody filler. I've read of guys using JB Weld but that sounds like big time overkill to me. Not saying it's bad, just not necessary. I'd say that rust is the biggest cause of failure! Even the slightest will come back in time to haunt you. Grinding and blasting is great but you still need to metal prep and use good primers! There's even a sprayable polyester filler that works wonders when primer fillers just aren't quite enough to fill the pits.

Well, depending on where you look....70's all week before, Sunny and same for Sunday......but SATURDAY.....cold in lower 60's and MIGHT rain in AM. You do something wrong and God is making it not as nice a day for ONE darn day?? Hee!