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Dad helped me out big time by running and grabbing this beauty for me. I have been unable to get away as preparation for the meet and greet is in full swing. I really don't want anymore, but when it is on your bucket list, you go for it. Looks to be in pretty good shape, minus the hole in the deck. I am really only going after the low production number models or ultra collectibles at this point. This will fit nicely in to the collection!

I met Bowtieguy/Frank today in Springfield and he brought me this C-175 auto its in pretty good shape no knocks or smoke i know the series 1 kt17 can be a time bomb but this one seems good it ran kinda ruff at first but it ended up being pretty much out of gas after that it ran good the steering is stiff but the trans is very strong and the deck works well and i added a metal seat pan i think i might see if my brother wants it so i can get my 314H back.

So another horse followed me home tonight. This time a 1966 wheel horse 1076. This is my first wheel a matic tractor and I must say, it is pretty nice. It also came with a deck, push blade, and wagon. Wagon is pretty rusty, but he did throw in some extra parts. I even had the trailer I hauled it on thrown in on the deal and just had to pay title transfer. It was a good day lol!

our mother asked us if we could come up with a faster method for peeling apples so we came up with this one spade drillbit a tub and a peeler. and a drillpress on low speed

There are 2 reasons for the regulator terminal to see battery voltage. First is the regulator is powered by DC voltage so it needs to be turned on to control the current it passes to the battery. Second is if the DC terminal does not see battery voltage it means it is not connected to the battery so it can charge it. Best way to cover all models and wiring systems is to turn the key on but the engine not running. See if you have battery voltage at the DC terminal. Garry

Racinbob said: Steve, my vote goes for taking them out, win or lose. Bob, don't take this seriously. I seem to have lost my partner in crime. I set out with Steve to stir the pot and get some excitement going in here and he was going to help with that but he must be otherwise occupied. I think Chris hid all his Rock and Rye awhile back and he must have found it. It could be weeks before we hear from him again. Lighten up fellas, nobody's going anywhere.

Makes sense. The 180A 220v model is $150 more, plus another hundred for the 220 line, and it is basically the same welder, just puts out 40A more. If I need something welded over 1/4" thick, I'll pay someone. The big benefit you will derive is a better duty cycle, the lower price welders are going to require a 45 minute nap after 15 minutes of work. Come to think of it I guess I have a twenty five percent duty cycle too!

It was just a pile of straps until you put them in hue-sequence (ROYGBIV) color-coded order... THAT'S when it became a problem--i mean-- collection...

I have actually used JB weld as filler 3 different times now and its worked great! It goes on just like bondo and actually sands off pretty easily with an orbital sander. I did a thread a few months ago of a deck repair I did for a co worker and referenced how I used JB weld as filler. Hes been using it this whole season and as far as I know its holding up just fine. As far as fixing them or leaving them I say fix them! If you are putting in the time to make it look nice once again the dents may bug you, and if you do indeed miss the dents once youre done you could always just whack it with a hammer and put them back . I fixed up and painted a 312 of mine a few years ago and fixed a big dent in the front of the hood but didn't realize there were 4 minor ones on the top of the hood. They didn't get filled and they bug me to this day. I have tried to work them out but with no success im worried I will mess up the paint or make more dents and essentially make it look worse.

A electric lift would make it perfect Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

225 units in 1990.

No, but I do have a 1972 Honda SL100 in my Van cave with a teddy bear sitting on the seat LOL (sorry no pic of that)

Nice score... seat just needs a little help.

I'm no expert but that looks like a strap collection to me.

For example...

" i know the series 1 kt17 can be a time bomb". Only if you use it on steep inclines or let it run out of oil. Otherwise they are as rock solid as any of the others. CAUTION: Do not operate engine continuously at an angle exceeding 20° in any direction, or for more than 5 minute intervals at angles up to 30° in any direction-as engine damage may result from lack of sufficient lubrication. The C-175 is a beast. That one is a beauty and would get a stall in my barn.

Probably be even faster... if you put the camera down, and helped Koen.

And an 8 speed too! My envy continues to grow! I may need professional help...

aah dutch veggies

Hydro pedal peg welded onto frame, front welds beefed up, prepped, primed. Also have 1st coat of finish paint on it. So barring bumps in road, should have a rolling chassis this weekend as planned.

"Van cave"

If I'm still breathin I'll make it there!!

Love the 520's and the rare 8 speed what a great find , enjoy!

Imagine a 500 with a dash like this. This is on Bud's Shep

...or... expand... like gas.

You did have a good day. Nice find, BUT that seat has to go!

A wire wheel is not enough, you have to acid prep rust to kill it. Then prime it. A guy at work suggested using old fashioned lead for filler...

The wife says I cant have them all , but if I can get them home before she see them its all good right ?

Thanks Thor27. Nice of you to notice Seriously, I was gonna wait until I had the Cam straightened out but I have a lot of time it getting this thing cleaned up, primed, painted and axles polished. I spent close to an hour with steel brush, brass brush and emory wheel to polish the axle shafts. They were less than appealing and one side required the 10 ton puller to break the hub free, I plan on having this tractor until I no longer am around and want to be able to get the hubs off without the same struggle in future. So Polished them and when hubs go on, so will anti-seize. As I am not trying to win a show with mine, I am doing my GT14 with black frame and Hydro with Red Body. As opposed to all red. To me, it almost looks like some tractors are dipped in red vat:)

You have to watch out for low flying planes at Bud's! I shot a video of the ride on Ol Shep. It appears fine on my desktop, but for some reason it played sideways. That's how Youtube recorded it also. I don't see any way to fix it. So here it is. Don't hurt your necks!

Hello guys this is my first post here. This C160 was my grand fathers and i just started the restoration. A nice coat of international red and some new decals. What do you guys think ?

You're not alone Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So today the starter came, the starter looked right. I got the engine all apart to get the starter placed and the holes did not line up. I was devastated so I I got to looking at the starters they appeared to have the same housing so all I really needed to do was swap out the mounting brackets. I figured I would either come out a genious or a guy that just wasted a 75 dollar starter. Well some how the mechanic gods were shining down on me today I got both starters apart and was able to fit the mounting bracket on the new starter. Got it all back together and it worked like a charm. Now I was finally able to start the tractor, I changed all the fluids and filter however I'm not sure where the hydraulic fluid is? Is this the same fluid that I replaced in the hydrostatic transmission or is there another reservoir for the hydraulic fluids and is there a filter for that as well??? Anyways on to the tractor it fired up and ran like pure ****. Anything over an idle and it would die I had to leave full choke on or it would die. I began squirting sea foam carb cleaner in the air intake, after a smoky stinky hour or so of spraying sea foam letting the tractor run for a few minutes then repeating it was beginning to run better. long story short at the end of the day I'm running with no choke and full throttle and it sounds pretty good. However if I push the throttle forward it will run full throttle but then if I let off the throttle it will actually back down on its own I'm gonna try and link some you tube videos for you to see what I am talking about. I also got a new seat installed and added a little white to the rims. Its coming along nicely won't be much longer now Now all I have to do is find a plow for it, and a belt for the deck and also hope my electric PTO is working still not sure on how to test or operate that thing even yet LOL

Folks should pay attention to what you just wrote! It will do just exactly what you predict! Those butt weld clamps are the cat's meow too! BUT, butt welding like that does take above beginners skill! Another way would be to cheat and get a good repair on one side by just soldering a JUST large enough patch and then fill on the show surface. Much less or no warping at all. Won't look good underneath but the weld job may not either! Lot' s of care and thought needs to be given to not trapping any residual acid flux 'cause we all know what that will lead to! Could even solder fill all the underneath to be sure not to trap any flux so there would be a continuous solder seam inside and outside. Heck, could even solder a perfect fit metal disc right into the hole and flush. My concerns are that someone with good welding skills will successfully weld in a patch and then scream because of excessive warping! Less heat/less warping! soldering? hard solder(brazing) or soft solder(wire soldering)? how would one go and do that? i know i can "weld"(grinder and paint makes me the welder i aint) a patch in, but solder? i am in no way shape or form a bodywork guy but i like to learn If you can weld you surely can solder! Just less heat! I and many others, though there is some confusion, consider soldering low temp with heats that don't approach needing even sunglasses! Someone else is more than welcome to jump in but to me, silver soldering is usually NOT soldering but rather brazing! High temp with shaded lens! Brazing is much stronger than soldering but soldering often provides all the strength needed with WAY less warping than hard soldering/brazing and FAR less warping than welding! Pure and simple, less heat/less warping! Less warping/less work to remove it! I've welded in some patches that just wrecked what I was working on! Actually did more damage, caused me even more work and left me scratching my head as to what to do now! Distorted and warped messes! Then I learned some tricks and other techniques, soldering where appropriate being one of them!

just wondering, what's the faf about 220? over in mainland europe we have 240 mains, my drillpress, benchgrinder and welder run on 400

The more I see this model shape the more I want one. Nice haul

That is good to know and I thank you, the information on here is as good as or better than any customer support group from companies that are still in business. I can't believe how helpful folks are on here thank you so much!

Although the transaxle holds 6 quarts, you can only get 4.5 out, so refill is 4.5 quarts. Filling it takes forever since there is no easy way to get the air out (even though the transaxle is vented). Get the new oil warmed up before trying to refill. It goes much faster. I used to leave the quarts out in the sun on an 80-90 degree day. Not many of those days left in this year though.

Good looking horse. And a trailer to haul more horses with.

I did remove the it yes, I will check that, good point.

Dents add character, it up to you to try n fix, or leave be. As for rust pitting, wire brush, and however many coats it takes of filler primer.

But did you have any roundhoods in your living room with doilies on them pretending to be end tables?

Bert, I feel your pain setting up something only to have Mother Nature show her hand! On another note I will not be able to attend this event. Long story short, some side effects from moms meds are playing hell on her kidneys and i dont want to be far from her. Shes been in the hosp 3 times in the last 2 weeks. I was so looking towards this, but mom comes first. Now some of of my coworkers are going. Heads up, if the big fat guy with a corvare shows up, he likes to buy stuff! Hehehe, sucker!

Looks like Hurricane Joaquin is planning on raining on our parade. Weekend of the 17th may be an alternative, Apple Country Antique T&E show is the following weekend and we are out of town the following two weekends. Also, Daylight savings time ends in early November.

Sparky, Gary has been looking for this horse for quite a while...I was even helping him look out here in the mid-west for the last year. He is like a kid in a candy store right now...out of control. You will not see this horse for sale...and you are right about where this thread is going.

I don't think any bondo/plastic filler is going to hold up to powder coating. You're going to need a good metal base for powder coat. Either leave the pits after blasting, or grind and polish it smooth. Maybe JB weld and polish it smooth might work. As a body guy, what's your opinion on putting filler on bare metal? Should body fillers be applied to bare metal or over a good sealer?

did this one last year or so. tilted the chipper 10 degrees and with the idler prevents belt whip that will destroy a belt in a few minutes. ive chopped 3" branches with it.

Well, knowing what needs to be done is rather important. Perhaps you could start by picking your teams. Oh I know, you're a late bloomer and will sneak em in there later this week. My picks for week #5.. Penn St., Michigan St., Minnesota, Wisconsin, Nebraska, Ohio St., Michigan, Notre Dame. Why does this edit keep merging with the previous post when I post it as a separate thread?

Hey Pullstart, got what ya need! Look for the heavy guy with the big camera! Scott will be able to direct you to me!

Some may think that I am jinxing us yet again this year but I feel very confident that this will be the best weather we have ever had!!!! Now if I can get Steve to cooperate with us and keep the nice weather blowing in from the west, then we will be all set! http://www.weather.com/weather/tenday/l/USIN0697:1:US