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So I'm the proud new owner of a new D series, D160 I believe. Its actually a bit of an anomaly to me. The guy who sold it to me said it was a D180. After looking at the engine model its an Onan BF-ms/3268f. I see it is a 16hp and the tractor model 71-160s01-13089 says its a c series but as you can tell it is most certainly a D. Any pros and cons about the engine trans I have in this tractor? Also it is not running, I know its a bit of a gamble but the deck the 3 point and the fact that he said it ran and had good working hydraulics this spring then lost spark gives me hope!! Anyways I wanted to see what thoughts you all had on this tractor, its not my first wheel horse I currently have a 314-8 and my dad has a 1974 c-10. Love these machines they even built our little C series like tanks!! Excited to see what this one will do. Also anyone from the Michigan area have a recommendation on a repair guy that might have some knowledge in wheel horses specifically. And no worries I added a little tractor porn to hopefully help get some responses lol

Well after selling off every wheel horse I had and switching over to the green machine, I had to find another and here it is. A bargain at $300.00. Boy have I missed these red machines.

Nothing but clouds and rain here! I would have just been happy to see it for a few seconds. The only thing I shot this weekend was an aggressive pit bull chasing me across my front yard when we went to leave for church.

Yes, the hood was painted RED. I think she is going to work on painting the entire tractor this winter. [/U Right now this is the only photo I have of the parade. We are staged in the line-up. 11 drivers and 1 rider.

Welcome back to the flock. as the Holy Father was departing I think he offered Papal Forgiveness for those who have gone astray but have repented, welcome back

Cut the exhaust pipe off right at the 45° nipple. Then with a cold chisel and hammer, cave the pipe in right at the exhaust port. It will come loose and then you can chase the threads with a 1" x 11 1/2 NPT tap.

Thought you were all done

WHO?

Throughout the history world more damage has been done when the mouth is activated before the brain, just look at our leading political figures. But, don't fret, there is a solution!

I came across a pair of 24x12x12 turfs in my shed while putting away all the pool stuff. Decided to see what they look like on my B100. Before: After: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

His message was all about the hope and redemption... so I guess, yeah...you're little green transgression has already been forgiven. Three Hail Mary's, three Our Fathers, and have yourself a nice day.

Put the duals on your parade horse and leave the singles on the workers. If you want more traction, load the tires, add wheel weights, ags, and dual link chains.

I pretty much quit working on it this summer. It's just too hot and humid. Last winter I had far too many other projects going to spend much time on the 400. Besides working out there I was having gloss paint dry dull. The wheels gave me fits. All I can think of is the heat and humidity was messing with the paint. We had a couple better days and I was finally able to finish them and get her back on all fours. The hood shouldn't take a whole lot more body work. The motor runs fine but the PO put a tapered crankshaft in it and welded the pulley. I'll be grinding that off and installing the right crankshaft. I'll go ahead and rebuild the carb while I have it apart and I'll also tap the exhaust port. This WILL get finished this winter and then it's on to a 500 Special.

If your not planning on taking the engine out anytime soon, remove the old crappy connector and solder and shrink wrap the connections. Also, the fuse block next to the battery is a huge problem area. I recommend removing the fuse block and soldering and shrink wrapping all the connections to inline sealed fuse terminals. I would also check the connections to the regulator, starter, & coil. Most homeowner bypasses are not checking/caring for the condition of the connector or fuse block. Yes, as stated by mikekot3, the connector is readily available. Might not be a bad idea to to buy a couple cans of CRC Electrical cleaner and pull the connectors from every terminal including safety interlocks and clean them. I also pack these connectors full of CRC Di-Electric grease to keep these problems from ever happening. I know, I go over board but I never have issues again. Here is an example of what I just finished on a 520H:

I'm bailing too...if it rains. Just sayin'...get your own coffee.

Might consider wearing something a bit safer in there...

RESULTS FOR WEEK # 4 ALL BIG TEN TEAMS AND ND WON EXCEPT PURDUE & MARYLAND 15 WINS AND 0 LOSSES...RACINBOB, SQUONK, BRRLY1, HORSEFIXER, BITTEN 14 WINS AND 1 LOSS........PAPAGLIDE, JACKHAMMER 13 WINS AND 2 LOSSES...HODGE71 12 WINS AND 3 LOSSES...STEVASAURUS 11 WINS AND 4 LOSSES...JIMD, KOEN, RMCIII RESULTS AFTER 59 GAMES 53 WINS AND 6 LOSSES....RACINBOB 52 WINS AND 7 LOSSES....HORSEFIXER 51 WINS AND 8 LOSSES....BITTEN 50 WINS AND 9 LOSSES....BRRLY1 47 WINS AND 12 LOSSES..HODGE71 46 WINS AND 13 LOSSES..SQUONK, JACKHAMMER 44 WINS AND 15 LOSSES..STEVASAURUS, PAPAGLIDE, RMCIII 42 WINS AND 17 LOSSES..JIMD 40 WINS AND 19 LOSSES..KOEN

Don't forget, some picts of the super, blood moon, eclipse tonight.

Here are some shots of the 520 tires. Two inch wheel spacers from http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Parts%20Catalog/Cub%20Cadet%20Parts%20Dual%20Wheel%20Spacers.htm These wheels came from a 94 Craftsman. They did not have the correct offset, hence the spacers. It widens the track just slightly, which help swith stability on some of the hills and slopes I have to deal with. You can see some of the hills in the last pic. I will post a separate topic on the craftsman setup after I get some pics/vid. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MY WHEEL HORSE WILL NOT MELT IF IT GETS WET, BUT IT WILL NOT FLOAT ALSO.

All the green is gone!

Good lookin' machine... thanks for not including the green thing.

What happened to geno?

I am in , already told the wife we are taking the camper and heading out , and its her birthday that weekend to

This is the way I have done it many times.Since a pipe tap is a little expensive, I just chase the threads with a new nipple coated with anti-seize.

I've had pretty good luck removing them by running the engine so it gets hot and then using a large pipe wrench to twist them out. You can try that but yours looks rusted in there good so it may not work. If it doesn't, Paul gave you the best way to get out the rusted nipple. You can also cut the nipple length wise from the inside with a hack saw blade before caving it in with a chisel. Just face the blade teeth away from the engine so the chips are pulled out when cutting.

Check the usual stuff outside the transmission first. Make sure the hubs are tight on the axles and not slipping. Pull off the hubs and check the key ways and wood ruff keys. Take off the belt guard and check the belt for wear, and check and clean the pulleys (with mineral spirits). I would say that you can expect a certain amount of your 1st issue just because these horses are belt driven and there is some natural slack because of that and the tension pulley. Your 2nd issue is more concerting. Anything that is worn or broke inside the transmission could cause the hollow knock. A broken tooth on an axle gear or (like I had one time) a 1533 bearing that had let loose a couple of the 1/4" steel balls from the race and they are getting popped around the trans case when they get picked up by a gear. What ever it is...it is fixable. Check the things above 1st...but it sounds like you may want to open the transmission anyway. If something is wrong like I stated in the trans, you could do more damage by driving it around. You should have the #5053 transmission...not hard to go into and put back together. Here is a link with some videos, maybe you can spot something that is making your noise. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/25103-5085-trans-rebuild-videos-pics/

Personally, I wouldn't waste my time trying to fix the solenoid. For $20, any auto parts store can hook you up with a new one. I just ask for one for a 1980 Ford...it is heavy duty and will outlast you.

Weather said, a bunch of the country wouldn't be able to see it... so, I grabbed the camera and uploaded a few here for all to see.

When needle bearings go bad stuff happens like this

Thanks Craig .. All clouds here so I watched the Broncos kick the Lions around.

That's a good lookin D-160 for sure.

For more info, click here. http://www.wheelhorsecc.com/

Biglerville PA at the end of June. It's about 20 min north of Gettysburg

...or Geno even.

I picked up a 94 520H. It runs well. The compression is good. 120psi front and 115psi rear cylinder. A few minor repairs and she'll be ready to roll!

im pretty sure the shell will work,you will need all the goodies from a classic deck likr spindles,belt tentioner bar,lifting harness,but they asking a little too much imo,taking that u have to totally retrofit it,the one thing that might not work is the front anti scalp wheels,they might hit thr front tires,only way to tell would be to slide it under a tractor

still in search of a brinly hitch, or a sleeve hitch adapter to play in the field if anyone has a loaner for the day. Thanks Scott and anyone else working to organize this!

Thanks for all the compliments!! I bought it because the guy seemed trustworthy and I was definitely impressed with how clean it was he certainly took care of her. So a little update this AM I replaced the battery it wouldn't charge, after replacing the battery I was only getting a free spin on the starter no engagement of the flywheel. So I bypassed the key and used jumper cables directly to the starter, that usually would engage the starter but sometimes I still only get a free spin. my thoughts are the solenoid is probably good but the starter itself is bad? Agree???? Also it wouldn't fire until I sprayed some starting fluid into it. it would run for a few seconds start to die until I sprayed it again. obviously not getting fuel, I figure replace the lines probably need it anyways, and maybe the fuel pump? Or would you start with the carb??? When it has a healthy dose of starting fluid it seems to run smooth for the few seconds it does. I also compression tested the cylinders both are just shy of 120. about 118/119 on both so I'm happy with that on a cold engine.

It was amazing! Nice pictures.

Show week is finally here! It is going to be a little cooler than they first projected but it looks like it will be a nice fall day for us to all enjoy! The field is ready to plow, the food is being prepared, the yard is ready for a bunch of old machines, and all we need is you! Thank you to everyone who is making the journey. I hope that everyone has safe travels!!!! If you need anything, please be sure to ask soon as I won't be online as much near the end of the week! Looking forward to seeing everyone again!

She's a beast. I like her and the trailer she rode in on.

My cousin Kipp found this charger 10 for $50. My outdoor wheelchair is a http://www.actiontrackchair.com . It's a beast, droug that charger 10 out of the yard one day. It quit on my little 4 year old cousin and for some reason the hydro wouldn't release. This thing will go about anywhere you need to go!

Drivers...Dad, me, my brother, my nephew, my sister, her husband, my wife, her daughter & son-in-law, and her mother, and my daughter. Drivers ages 15 to 82. Tractor ages 21 to 51. The 4th generation kids were to ride in the wagon, but something else took priority (according to the SIL's ex-wife).

Dozer blade manual http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1986-blade-dozer-48in-1984-1989-06-48bc01-om-tipl-snpdf/ This bagger is for the 2-blade 37" side discharge mower http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/3836-mower-rotary-37in-sd-1988-07-07bc01-bagger-twin-rear-7-cu-ft-om-snpdf/ The vacuum bagger has a blower that mounts at the outlet and is driven by the right mower spindle. Can be mounted on 42" and 48" side discharge decks. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/3031-mower-vacuum-lawn-42in-48in-1992-07-4xvc01-om-ipl-snpdf/ I would think a bagger should work well if conditions are correct. Dry grass that is not too long, sharp blades with the lift wing not worn out and an engine that is running at the designed rpm speed. There is a reasonably priced photo tachometer available now that the average Joe can obtain and maintain their own equipment. After using one I was surprised how far off my guess was and the sound is not that much different. Garry

Not only is going to the Dentist a PITA and mouth,, but the billing afterward is a nightmare. I haven't seen a Dentist office in the last 25 yrs' get the Insurance correct. 2 years ago I had to call the Ins. Co. 15 times trying to get reimbursed for a crown. Dentist office kept sending the wrong info. One time they didn't even get my name right. Then after my heart issue, I cant get any dental work done until I'm off plavix. I haven't been to the Dentist in 15 months. 2 month's ago I get a bill for $170 that they can't even tell me what it's for!. All this after I dropped my other Dentist office. He retires and the new doc sends every patient a repeat of there last bill. I question it and they said they sent them to every one. How many patients to question it and just pay it? I thought that was a pretty crappy way of getting to know your new patients and told them so and walked out.

Lookin good, keep the pics coming.

You can make a lift bar. Raise the blade and brace it so it's in the raised position and doesn't hit the front axle. With the lift handle in the raised position, measure the distance between the two mounting holes on the lift and the plow frame. Get a piece of flat stock steel (3/16 or 1/4 thick) and drill 2 holes at the previously measured distance. Connect using grade 8 bolts and lock nuts or weld some pins in those holes to connect it using clips or cotterpins Or, use a piece of chain and connect using bolts. The solid link will allow down pressure by pushing on the handle