Leaderboard

for those of us who don't have FB, can someone share a picture here? sounds cool! and a bit tough, if you ask me

Had a few of the horses out this afternoon while I was working on a couple others. Here you go... L to R: C-160, C-120 (step-daughters new machine), 520 H, B-80 & D-200. The C-120 has been (poorly) painted orange, and needs to be RED. I told her she has 1 week to make it RED if she wants to drive it in the upcoming parade.

No need to go undercover- I'm a busy guy but I usually post pics of all the WheelHorse builds on this site. I have updated my Facebook sites and will get something on here providing the owner doesn't do it first. Its his and he does deserve to have some fun showing it off also. For those who are on facebook I have a page dedicated to the 4x4 tractors only and it can be found at www.facebook.com/totallyarticulatedgardentractors. Anybody can join and watch what we build in all brands.

I gave her a bath tonight after she dried I couldn't wait, I broke out the wd40 and 600 grit paper this was the test Of course I couldn't stop I like it![emoji106]

I had the opportunity to meet a red square member a bit over a week ago and I went home with a sickle bar Diablo was a great guy and needless to say I'm very happy with my purchase! So far I have slid it under a roller to test fit it. It seems like a good fit

Just got home thought I'd share some pics of this beautiful 1045. Plan is to oil her up and parade her around. Starts right up, motor is strong.

A few weeks ago I got new tires put on, I decided too stick with the original split rims. The truck now rides and handles like a new truck. Not a squeak or rattle in it. Squonk asked for some under hood pics....

Well it's about as close to done as it gets. I've got to repaint the mule drive as I had the front wheels on backwards (actually they've been that way for 20+ years and I put them back on the same wrong way they came off). The wheels being on backwards causes the tire to rub the mule drive when turning full lock left. Oh well, I'll get it painted up and add the final decal. He's a some pics I snapped with my phone. I need to pull it out and take some pics with a real camera! It deserves it!!

The Wheel Horse 420LSE Worker Story.... I bought this 420LSE number 77 late January of this year from a guy from Western New York. He was the second owner of the tractor as the first owner only own it for only 1 year. Well this tractor was used and abused by the second owner as he racked up almost 1400 hours on the 420lse never knowing this tractor was collectable and limited edition. So I get that call to come and take look at this suppose to be 420lse tractor on the coldest day of the year 2 degrees of course outside. He opens the garage and there it is 420lse all rough up and mean looking sitting there with a flat tire. I check it over and everything matches up like it's suppose to be and it came with the proper paperwork. The bonus is it came with a 2 stage snowblower. The story is he used it to cut the lawn of course and snow blow every winter. He said he always keeped it outside and never had room in the garage since he restored cars for his hobbie.The last 6 years he just used it to lawn roll his lawn. So the tractor had some dents,scratches and rust but still through all that it looked good to me to buy and take home. The funny part is I never got a chance to run it because it was so cold he couldn't even jump start it but I took a gamble. I even power washed it that night when it was 0 degrees I just wanted to get the salt off. So I decided to keep its patina orginal survivor look and did very little paint touch ups. The hood and rear seat pan I left alone they had little rust spots and scratches and the hood had a few dings. Alot of mice nest in the tractor. The deck was shot but i keeped the chrome deck wheels.The rims had rust damage because he had them loaded and they sat for the longest time. I repaired them and drained all the fluids out as i had to cut the tires off. I changed all the fluids, plugs,filters,etc. I did some wire repair and replace all the fuses. Alot of cleaning and detailing went into this tractor. Today I truly started it up for the first time and it ran awesome with no smoking or any unusual noises! It drove perfect and had tons of power. I was very pleased it turn out this good. The future for this 420LSE Worker survivor tractor number 77/200 is retirement he going to relax and become and Sunday driver. Everyone once awhile he going to pull a cart around to feel cool again. He's not going to win a beauty shows or get all the girls but he's cool looking with all his battle wounds over the years......

Hi Everyone, With some feedback I got from you all on the forum I am going swap in a 23hp Briggs and Stratton Vanguard V-twin engine conversion kit from smallenginewarehouse.com I spoke to Zandy on the phone with a bunch of my questions and he was very helpful to me. I am hoping to get it Thursday or Friday by truck delivery. I am hoping it goes well in the swap and I can cut grass again and use my old snow blower attachment from my old C-120.

Here she is after a wet sand of wd40 and 600 grit paper. Thinking about sanding to 1000

Hi all, Finally got the lawn ranger out for a ride today. Very happy with the way this one turned out, runs great and looks good too! Just have to do a couple paint touch ups and paint the letters on the hood and its done. Thanks, Jake

That's pretty sweet! That would work great trimming under the pine tree's running around the perimeter of my property.

I think your work is phenomenal. A+ all around. Seeing Brrly s in person clinched it. Glenn

Wrapping up a long 3 days of "logging" in the back yard.

Hey guys! I'm new to the board and thought I would share my project. Growing up my dad bought a 1976 B-100 that I learned to mow on when I was 6 years old. It was the first motorized anything I ever drove. Over the years I spend a serious amount of time on that tractor and learned everything from how to operate a clutch to back up a trailer. Fast forward 25 years....dad stopped mowing with the B-100 because the engine had lost compression and power. It got put in the corner of the barn for 5 years and he bought a used 92' Horse. Two weeks ago, a good friend bought a zero turn and had a 96' Horse that was spotless. He asked my dad if he wanted to buy it and he pulled the trigger. Having no room in the barn for the B-100 he asked me if I wanted it. Heck yeah! I swung by that week with the trailer and brought it home. I thought I would start with an engine rebuild and mow with it but as I started to tear into it things got out of hand. I decided to do a full show quality rebuild and am currently finishing up the paint work. I used PPG epoxy primer and Urethane top coat. I am currently doing body work on the sheet metal to fix a couple dings that were probably from me or my brother growing up. Last night I pulled the K241 apart and am dropping the block and crank at the machine shop tommorow morning. Turns out the top piston ring was cracked and had a loose piece floating. I expected to find a piston with "STD" on the top but after cleaning up the top it has a single "1" stamped in the top. Not sure if this is a standard bore or a 0.010 over? I guess I'll find out after it gets to the machine shop. Here's some pics of the progress!! Back form the media blaster....time to smooth out the metal. Epoxy primer on,,, Laying down some glossy red!! Fresh coat of Sherwin William Linen White paint on the wheels.. Mower deck coming back together...

...well...actually, very gifted indeed, considering the Joisey Hawg Glenn passed this gorgeous example of a '68 500 Special on to me today. All for just the price of gas to stop by and pick it up...what do you think, was my lucky day, or what? As you can see, I'm pretty happy, was a really great time hanging out with Glenn and the boys this afternoon.

Saturday I sold the 264-6 and Monday bought a 1973 12 Automatic and got it from the same guy who sold me my 655 last year. I had been looking for an older 12 hp hydro but have been leery of getting a bad transmission but when I saw that this one was being sold by the guy that sold me the 655 I new that it would be a solid tractor. Like with the 655 he had given it a complete tuneup, replaced the fuel lines and filter, solenoid, ignition switch and WD-40 and steel wooled the hood and fender. He had the original owners manuals including a warranty card filled out and not mailed in, and the manual for the replacement 93 Kohler replacement K301. I'm so happy!

One of my 520's, the HC was doing that as well, turned out to be the ignition module. Hardest part of replacing it was getting the sheet metal all off. If the flywheel would have just pulled out through the large hole in the sheet metal, it would have saved a lot of time. Cleat

I wanted to keep yall updated, as of now the porta john has been arranged and we are mostly ready I'm looking forward to this and hope everyone enjoys

FB junkies group is a closed group. Message Scott @whfan74 or Mike @racinfool40 for access with your email/facebook id. Bob @whlpny as always, such masterful work. You've really got this down now. I know the hours in it are many, but you seem to be banging them out in pretty short order lately!

Nice work Bob! Still having a blast with the 502 my daughter and I picked up from you!

I think you fixed your link while I was finding it...

That thing looks great and that brand new deck really tops it off

that's one mean beast!

Yea , I want to see that bad boy. Post some pics.

Busy,busy, busy.... I feel like I haven't even had time to sit. Even though I do it all day. I have been trying to finish up a few projects before the busy season at work. I will start picking next week

Yeah! Pictures would be nice!

Just noticed you have the lower wire rod. It just needs straightened out and connected to the front hole in the triangle piece. Then make a similar wire to connect the rear hole in the triangle to the squeeze handle at the top of the blade angle lever. It sounds like you were thinking of using one cable to connect the locking pin to the handle. That could possible work, but you would have to add a pulley where the triangle is now located so the effective length of the cable would remain constant regardless of the position of the blade angle lever. That is why the triangle and blade angle lever pivot points are located at the same point.

Very nice job! Good story!

Hi May not be the same as what happened to me on my GT 11 but I had a very fussy safety seat switch that caused mine to keep stalling out while operating on anything other then level ground. Im more into operation then being an avid must be all there collector so I by passed it.

Keep us in the loop, Mike. PICTURES!!!!!!!!

This is one of my better paint jobs and rebuilds. Hope you enjoy the pics This was 5yrs ago.

The problem was using the travel agency. the airlines can't do anything to change the ticket if you bought it through a travel agency. And she took the cheapest option ($900 round trip) with no refunds or changes possible. And since she was late, she was considered a no show. They taught us not to jump as long as the plane was still flying.

Typically there is a solid wire (1/8" dia I think) that is fastened to the blade angle locking pin and passes thru the hole in the frame and is connected to the triangular shaped yoke. Another wire connects the yoke to the squeeze handle on the top of the blade angle adjusting lever. I see you have the yoke, but I can't see if you have the squeeze handle at the top of the lever.

I an't tell for sure but it looks like you're missing the rod that goes on the handle down to the triangle part. Is there a lever on the top of the handle?

Here is how to test the coil and ignition module from the SM http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/6-engine-onan-p216-p218-p220-p240-sm-492-4006pdf/

30W oil Napa #75-110. My store has 81 qts' on hand. Not hard to find.

You guys are cruel....pickin on an old jarhead like that..... if Mal was was 70 years younger I bet he would ..........

We are looking good in terms of weather for Saturday! 85 and sunny-woo hoo !!

In 1988 besides the transmission and obvious motor HP, the main difference is in the instrumentation and chrome. As the numbers go up so do the number of gauges, warning lights and chrome on the muffler, air filter, hubcaps etc. Wheel and tire size increase as well through the models.

Straightened a bent fence post this morning. With the engine at fast idle the tractor didn't even notice. Think I'll be pulling shrubs soon.

I was all set to attend but I couldn't convince my wife it would be as much fun as a week at the beach. We always take the week of the 9th for our anniversary. Sorry to have to miss this event.

Mike plowing naked with vaseline all over him? Someone is gonna call the cops!

Well all the bodywork paid off. The paint turned out fantastic on the fender and hood. It took a long time to get all the dings and dents out of the hood but it paid off! I'm pumped!

Here's a score I found at the yard sale of our local Wheel Horse dealer after the owner retired. I had a dripping output shaft and axle seal and a key way issue on the right axle that my dad had repaired and would probably be fine but after seeing a "used" 8 speed on the shelf in the parts room and finding out he wanted $80 for it I took it home! It still has paint on the brake drum and inside the bolt holes that mate to the frame and a fresh shifter boot! I got it painted with urethane and mated up last night.

I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would relate an interesting story. Back in 2009/2010, when I was restoring/building my B-100. I was a true novice with painting, so I experimented with a lot of combinations. I had several test panels that I sprayed with different colors and types of paint. One test panel in particular was painted with a modified alkyd (oil) paint, Valspar Restoration Series to be specific. It had dried in the sun for about a week. Then I put it away when the decision was made to scrap alkyds and go with acrylic urethane. Later, probably within a month, I pulled it out, scuffed the paint and shot a couple coats of epoxy primer on it. That panel was put up on a shelf and left until this past weekend. I happened to pull it down to see if I had marked it with what brand of epoxy I had used. I also wanted to see how well the epoxy would sand after 5 years. When I went to sand it, I found to my surprise that the Valspar paint under the primer was still not cured, and after cutting through the epoxy, I could scrape the sticky red paint off with a putty knife. Background: Panel was originally sand blasted. Primed with Valspar Restoration Series gray primer. Painted with two coats of Valspar Restoration Series IH Red (aerosol spray). Allowed to dry for about 30 days. Scuffed and sprayed with Custom Shop DTM epoxy primer (gray). Interestingly, the epoxy cured in less than 5 hours and sanded well at that time, and after 5 years it still sanded without effort. However, the result here is that the epoxy dried so fast, and is so solvent-proof, that the Valspar which wasn't fully cured to start with, remained uncured until this day. CONCLUSION -- Don't spray epoxy primer over any oil based paint that is not FULLY cured.