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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/14/2015 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Took out 4 of the 6 horses out this morning so I could clean the garage [stalls]
  2. 4 points
    It was 62F here this morning. That was all I needed. Took the deck off the 314 and put on the wheel weights, chains, and snow plow.
  3. 4 points
    I agree with Brandon, don't take it apart unless you have to. I would change the fluid and see what happens, and then take it from there. You might also clean the outside of the case, especially around the seals, and check carefully for leaks after you've changed the fluid and driven the tractor around for a while.
  4. 4 points
    I got the engine tins off today and gave it a good cleaning it was not to bad but it needed it cleaned. Also it has a great looking nelson muffler on it. Got the headlights working and they both work great and took a look at the deck it looks like it was in good condition before it was parked but rust and pitted pretty bad on the bottom kinda a bummer but it will be fine i soaked it in oil for now i think it will be a good winter project to paint all the spindles look good
  5. 4 points
    Someone stole one of the Red Square members photos to send me a birthday card today. I enjoyed it a lot!
  6. 3 points
    You are absolutely correct, alzheimers has not set in! I wasn't shouting at you, I just figured if you felt like you were getting older your eye sight might be failing.
  7. 3 points
    I rebuilt this tractor 4+ yrs ago and it came out looking good. Should have kept it, it went to Northern Illinois to a Power King collector, so I know it got babied..
  8. 3 points
    What is "difficulty"? Can it shift or not? IF it can and its just stiff or stuck sometimes, I think your best bet is to drain the oil/water mix, and run some fresh oil in there. Run it for a while in all the gears with fresh oil and see if that doesn't free her up. Many times just getting the oil and water out helps a BUNCH. Some guys flush with kerosene or diesel, but I have not tried that. You may be just fine just getting cleaned up with some fresh oil!
  9. 3 points
    Today i found out that it is indeed a Wheel Horse, it's a WB2000.
  10. 3 points
    Nope, no time for Scouting when I was growing up in the mountains in Western Pa. Jay. We learned to be prepared though to survive the harsh winters in Somerset Co. I did spend about 8 years as a leader/treasurer for the Troop my two Sons joined here in York Co. One made Life and one made Eagle.
  11. 3 points
    The first mental picture that I had when I read the title was this grizzly image. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was your trouble-making horses.
  12. 3 points
    I think there was a rear end chain reaction collision involving 3 or more mower's....;)
  13. 2 points
    Hello I have this tractor that has been in my family for a long time. I used to plow driveways with it for money as a 10 year old. I believe it is a 1965 Wheel Horse lawn ranger. I am trying to figure out how much it is appraised for or how much it would cost to fix it up to make it into the tractor it should be. This past winter I replaced the hoses, spark plug, added chains, changed the oil and did some overall work on it. It has always been garage stored. Here are some pictures. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You
  14. 2 points
    Well I was finally able to convince the kids that the time had come to let the swingset go... Buyer had it disassembled and taken down but I still had to move the 6" of rubber mulch. Used my new 522xi with loader and the rock rake on the back of the C195 3 point to smooth it out. Next will be to get some topsoil and plant some grass...
  15. 2 points
    Rocks? Not many at all. All sand Also several stumps and roots. I can also use the back hoe to pick up large logs with tongs and set on the log splitter. Anything over 150 lbs I either use the forks on the loader or the back hoe. Paid for itself time and time again.
  16. 2 points
    i just made a stand to mount the tank on
  17. 2 points
    So I have been working on this on and off last week, this is were I am at. Took tires of rims, sand blasted the front two, paint was thick, not sure what it was but some of it was stuck on pretty well. The back ones will be more fun as they have most all the paint on them. Pulled tower and steering wheel, may be on the look out for a better steering wheel.
  18. 2 points
    Ok. Thanks to all and also the warm welcome. It looks like I'll be able to narrow it down with the block idea. Then (in a couple days) I will report back with the news. Yes, I hope it is nothing too complicated. Hopefully it will just be a matter of buying a spray can of "Spindle Fix" from the local dealer. Once again, Thanks. Skyler
  19. 2 points
    Mike you must have Walter confused with EARL CAMPBELL!!! He ran over and carried on his back more players than than Franco Harris ran out of bounds from! SKOAL BROTHER!!!!
  20. 2 points
    Stand the deck vertical on the back wheels so you can see the top and bottom. Make sure it is fastened to something so it cannot fall on you. Then use a wooden block to lock the questionable blade to the deck. With gloves on, turn one of the other blades and note what is not turning. Belt, pulley ,or spindle ? Oh...pardon my manners Skyler. TO
  21. 2 points
    If this is the style with a woodruff key in the top pulley, you MAY have sheared it or it suffered from being loose for a while. If it is a newer type spindle that doesn't use the woodruff key then MAYBE the top nut has worked itself loose, or the pulley center has ...somehow... worn to be out-of-round and, thereby, became loose. Before you button it up, pinch the belt to ensure that the spring tension arm and pulley are not STUCK. Actually, that is the 1st thing to check. That flat tension arm and pulley whould be able to bounce back and forth freely, with no restriction at all.
  22. 2 points
    You need to read this thread. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/16582-help-my-shift-lever-pulled-out/
  23. 2 points
    I agree with the above, but I would drain it and put 2 qts of diesel (which I have done) and run it on blocks for about 20 to 30 minutes using all the gears. Diesel, like kerosene, will get into the tight places and dissolve and combine with what is there and drain out...and it is cheaper then using 90wt to flush. The problem...you still will not know what you have just buying a machine. You can pull the sifter and kind of get a little view in the trans, but it will not tell the full story. If you want to know what is going on inside your transmission, you really have to open it. Sorry...but it is true. I would still try this first, because it will clean it out a lot. If you still have problems shifting from hi to low...there is a shift plate the can bend or break to cause what you have. If you never need low to do anything...leave it in high. Let us know what happens after you flush it. Here is a link that will show you that piece I am talking about. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/17947-idiots-guide-to-8-spd-trans-rebuild/ There are quite a few threads in the "Reference Section" on the main page that will show you what you may be up against. I hope you know...there is no shifting allowed if you are not at a COMPLETE STOP on these horses...not coming to a complete stop and shifting is what causes your problem.
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
  26. 2 points
    Nice.....Little red on that service motor and no one would be the wiser No such thing as too far away slammer if you plan a fishin trip to that area, tell your wife you are gonna take her shopping....just don't say what for....works for me cept then I have to take her shopping for real and that usually ends up costing more than the horse!
  27. 2 points
    Drive the grader down. Won't help Mike... no snow blade on it. No blade on the Grader er..Grater ?? Pretty cheesy excuse Craig.
  28. 2 points
    You're probably going to be fine. Worse case would be what Garry said but that would be easy to fix. Back the set screw out more to remove the shifter and check the donut out. Providing it's OK look down the shifter hole and the forks should look like this. That's in neutral. There's a hole on the front of the shifter donut. Insert the shifter and tighten the set screw making sure the dog point goes into that hole using a 1/8" allen wrench (providing somebody didn't make their own set screw from a bolt). Snug it until you feel the resistance as you shift through the gears. Then back off just a fuzz so the resistance goes away and hold it there while you tighten the lock nut (not shown in the picture) with a 7/16" wrench.
  29. 2 points
    If you can twist it it sounds like the donut on the shifter is no longer secured to the shifter. Some are welded but many are retained by a roll pin that shares the hole with the dog-point set screw. You will understand once you remove the shifter. Before you pull it out try to shift it into neutral so it goes back together easier. Garry
  30. 2 points
    I've been getting one of my better 520H's ready most of the Summer.Everything's repainted except the hood right now.Painted the rims.Put a new seat with arm rests on it.(Got it from Northern Tool).Changed the tranny oil and filter.Used Mobil synthetic 10-30. De-rusted and painted a 2 stage blower for it.Bought and installed new tire chains.Put Bolens wheel weights on the rear.Bought new gold and black decals from Terry.Starting to look almost too good to use.Almost is the key word.Bring on the snow.I'm ready.
  31. 2 points
    I was thinking the same thing get good and clean put some J.B. on it should be fine. Liquid steel a farmers friend. Good stuff.
  32. 2 points
    its probably just the set screw on the shifter needing tightened it is located at the base of the shifter under the shifter boot.
  33. 2 points
  34. 2 points
    Well am waiting on Hyrdraulic parts, need to find a Welder(only been local a couple years) and have to get some Black Diamond. Spent Saturday morning trying to resuscitate the power washer. No Go. I could spend time and money on new valve but unit was only nominally powerful enough. Will try and work without and upgrade in spring. So need extra media to blast outdoors. But I started cleaning up and doing all the Smalls. Did not think I accomplished much but as I gathered it all for a photo for documentation purposes, not a bad couple shortened days. Photos not great as indoors and I have used the backing so much it matches the parts. The rear weights I picked up earlier this summer from Forum friend in CT. Decided as long as I am in blast mode, why not knock the rust off and repaint. These days if it's not nailed down and its metal, it gets the refresh:-) The Hydro engage lever and adjustment rats nest were the last parts done along with front axle assembly. Down to cleaning and painting the Hydro itself, then the Frame once welded. While I may not get finish coat done before winter, I think I can get it done in early spring worst case. Any by of you paint experts, if I set up a paint area in basement, will paint cure around 55-58 degrees? Might set up a paint booth in basement this winter and vent outside.
  35. 2 points
    OH...is that it there attached to to other? No wonder, all the other flywheels I saw...only had two on 'em. Good eye Terry...should epoxy back into place, no problems.
  36. 2 points
    Wish I could do it for you Bob.
  37. 2 points
    Cute...should've included that... in your birthday card here. Hope you had a nice day today Lane?
  38. 2 points
    these look about the right size for this..........nice lights for the right money
  39. 2 points
    I can't believe I got a Northwestern game right. Steve I would have picked Maryland even though I'm not sure I will again,thanks.
  40. 2 points
    When Squonk said "Offensive game plan was solid. give it to Forte and stand back" My old brain has heard this before but it was , for a lot of years "Give the ball to Walter."
  41. 2 points
    It's got to get colder than 62 for me to start prepping for snow, but I'm putting the plow on the 416-H soon. With my upcoming back surgery, I will not be able to plow my drive, so I am hoping that I can teach my wife how. She hasn't even driven the 416-H much less work the hydro lift and snow plow. It's going to be interesting. On second thought, maybe I should hire someone to do it.
  42. 2 points
    Rob...any of us could say the same thing. When you have "IF" in one hand and "POOP" in the other and you clap your hands...you get some on you. Guess what...I gained a game on you this week...
  43. 2 points
    The C-1x1's were the starting of what would be the 300's, 400's and I would say the base for the 500's. They were the backbone bread and butter for Wheel Horse. With a Kohler K series in them except for a Briggs thrown in just to keep things interesting, they were very simple to maintain and with just alittle TLC here and there they would outlast anything on the market. They were what I call the foundation, everything else that came along, though they were good tractors just had fluff added to them. The C-1x1's were a no noncence, no frills get it done garden tractor.
  44. 2 points
    Max dig is 6'. I run electric at 4' fast and easy. The water lines are down 5 to 6. The septic tank I put in is down 6'. Paid for itself over and over and over. Plus a lot of fun to operate.
  45. 1 point
    Thats Ok Racinbob he made up for it by picking "Duke"
  46. 1 point
    That rust spot almost looks like a WH logo. :) Nice herd
  47. 1 point
    If it snows before Thanksgiving I'm going to blame you!
  48. 1 point
    Bob, I am surprised MJ is letting you get that dog ready for Halloween. You know BO would look great in Northwestern colors...he's got Wild Cat in his eyes. Maybe his eyes are saying..."WTF".
  49. 1 point
    I think Bob, the imperative there is...MENTAL.
  50. 1 point
    Hey Semper... we like working picts too.
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