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OK, so I picked up a plow for my C-175 off CL, guy wanted $60 for it . (the guy said "hey you want that old snowblower attachment too?") tch... duh, free? c'mon! anyway, I decided to attach the plow and push some dirt around just for fun . That's when I found out that steering, controlling the height of the blade, and speed of the tractor (forward/reverse) was a challenge to say the least... Of course with the Sundstrand hydro, the available pedal mod is zilch. I thought about looking for a different Horse, but I like this one. so being a machinist, I made this... I took it for a test ride last night and it works great! As it stands, I was using both pedals to control the speed, the brake pedal moves the lever back toward the neutral position to slow the tractor down in either direction. I was looking at using springs for return to neutral, but it was pretty easy to just use the pedals. I think the rear PTO belt should clear too. Total out of pocket cost ~$42.00 for the pedal and Heim links. The rest, well I work in a shop, lol The only thing I regret is cutting original sheet metal... . there are a few of those belt guards available, so I could grab one just in case

Just have a few minor things left to do and then onto the 42" SD deck. A few of the changes I made to simplify things include eliminating the rubber motor mounts and the separate brake pedal. The clutch pedal is also the brake like the older models are set up. I noticed that the lift handle on my C is too far back and sticks out so far that it rubs against my leg and forces me to hold my leg at an unconformable angle. I would really like to swap out the steering tower for the simpler and narrower older style like my 857 has. I think it looks better too. Sometimes engineers should leave well enough alone.

Naw, I can't make fenders , Dennis, they are stock from Northern Tool, but I can bend up belt guards and covers , etc. on my cheapie Harbor Freight metal break. I made the hood for the "FrankenPanzer" in the bottom picture. The top picture has the home made belt cover on a tractor that started out as a Commando 8, I had some round hoods and a couple fuel tanks, so I changed the Commando over to look like a 753 or 854 type tractor. An English Wheel is still on my wish list, lol.

Been working on my "jalopy" pretty hard the last couple weeks, It was my 657 that I flipped the frame upside down. It is still all original WH, except the sheet metal and the seat. Same rear end, frame, front axle, steering and engine. It's a centrifugal clutch now and the belt is routed under the floor pan. It's really working great, took it for a 4 mile ride the other night up along the back road by the creek. It's name is "Old Shep", lol It looks more and more like a little truck every day , so I'm building a stake body bed on the back of it now.

C'mon now... he did make it one night.

Well I couldn't help it. Project has Begun! I'm going to just start off by getting it back to a roller frame again and then it may sit for a while or I may build the rest off of there. I have a rebuilt trans sitting here for it already. And I can borrow a set of tires that were going to be used on the 59, because that project is going pretty slow. I may start blasting parts today.

Hi Craig and Steve and Mike and ever one else. I am getting this from a R/S member here hopefully he will reply. Well here she is. I think next week I will be getting this 607. For the members who are not familiar about this little tractor I have been looking for over 2 years for this one. I still think it`s because of the recoil start? I would say very rare. I have only seen 2 and one was a basket case the other 1 had a line on this already. I think most opted for the 657 which is electric start. I seen lots of those and the same for 65/66`s I had a 606 until this spring but still not a 607. So this completes the series for me. From what I under stand it was dealer stock so it has a few Minor issues like decals and the seat which I have. And the engine is a 7 hp snow blower engine. I will put in the Commando 6 engine and make it look pretty. Sounds like Terry will be getting a phone call soon. This all stared years ago with a 1257 Hence T1257. I will do a complete video of what I will be doing to this tractor. I hope you enjoy the picks.

Thanks, Dennis , that is a nice compliment, much appreciated ! I try not to be hoggish when I sell something, because I hate to spend a dam fortune on that kind of stuff myself, lol ! I always wanted to find a 1 inch muffler somewhere like these for a Kohler , and no luck, so I thought I'd see if I could cobble up something myself, the first ones looked like hell, but gradually they improved once I got the hang of it. If I get flooded with orders, it will take a couple weeks, sorry 'bout that, and I hate making people wait for their stuff, but we all have to take care of our other day to day duties, too.

Sounds like you you guys were handed some lemons. It's kind of funny how different people - and perhaps different regions - view things differently. Until I went to my first WH show in 2000 I had never been to a tractor show where guys were just cruising around. And I used to go to a LOT of them. There was always the occasional tractor moving from one activity to another, but other than the parade, plowing, or pulling they all just sat there stationary. Guys meandered and talked. Lots of old timers sat in lawnchairs next to their machines. Nobody had a tent or canopy. When I saw constant driving around at biglerville it struck me as odd. It was just implied that the shows in my part of illinois were for walking. I've seen one backflip and a lot of close calls at the big show. One young kid ran over my right foot on a suburban. Seems like a matter of time... I have more fun walking anyway. But I'm a talker, so... Make lemonade, steve

As far as Ag's on the front. Many tires will have embossed on the sidewall the direction they should go.These Carlisle Tru Powers have an arrow and you can see they want them on normally for traction end (Rear) and reversed for rolling (Front) People keep asking me why I have the Ag's reversed on the front and this is why. They work rather well too!

MICHIGAN "GO BLUE" TCU MICHIGAN ST ILLINOIS IOWA MARYLAND RUTGERS STANFORD PENN ST. NEBRASKA INDIANA ALABAMA NOTRE DAME MARSHALL OHIO ST

thanks for the help everyone, I've found some good videos now and thank you west_ca-(file mod) for the write up, always good to learn the terminology. i've also downloaded the brinly manual. callum

I bought a cheap 3/4" socket set from harbor freight. All the sockets and extensions are used to drive in bearings. The ratchet is used as a persuader bar or to keep un-savory types out of the garage!

Just take a punch and tap out the old bearing sleeve...start the new one in from the out side...use a piece of 2 x 4 and tap squarely until it is in...use a punch or arbor to get the bearing to flush with outside of case if it is a cap bearing...and indented about 1/8" if you need to place a seal. Sometimes, the right 1/2" drive socket inverted on an extension will work as an arbor.

I like that look. I did it with my 1054 (front and rears) but went with silver instead of white. Mike........ Final pics on the tractor... Mike............

Sure.

Hello, fellas, Thanks for liking my stacks. This is how I make them, they are good and heavy duty and should last for years. I was welding them together, but lately I figured out how to crimp them together and they look much nicer now, like the one in the last photo. It takes me about 2 hours to build one from scratch and the materials cost me between 10 and 12 bucks, depends on where I can buy stuff. I ask 30 dollars plus shipping ( usually 8 dollars more ) when I sell them through the mail. Thanks again for your interest , much appreciated ! I don't always have them made and on hand, I work in spurts, LOL It's just a hobby, not a job, but I like helping out with your tractors whenever and as soon as I can. I make reproduction Wheel Horse cigarette lighters and hood screws for round hood tractors at times, too. Thanks for looking, I am usually on Facebook at Wheel Horse Junkies more than I'm on Red Square, its much easier to get ahold of me there.

I thought i would post you sum motivation!!! Pic is from last years M&G

Alrighty everyone, Im starting this build log early. Will try to update as soon as possible but the farm is hectic since harvest will be starting in about 3 weeks. I barely have time for anything these days. I bought this raider 12 for my engine overhaul class coming up in October. I will be performing almost everything in the shop at the college. But I will get some things done in these next few weeks when I can. I will put a list on here since I myself am very forgetful lol. But anyways onto some pics to hold you all over and a list of what will be done. Future upgrades and Parts already obtained: -Lug nut conversion -Completely repainting the whole unit flat black besides the hood (will respray copper with a high gloss clear) and maybe do some body work. - Paint a couple accents with Sea Foam Green - Pin stripping on some parts (hood, belt protector panel, rear end behind seat) -Custom old school headlights -LED tail light in place of old tail light -Custom gas tank (If I can find one) -Extend shifter 4-5" with a custom shift knob (thinking about a beer tap or a piston) -Some kind of knob for the high/low shifter -Find some sort of seat -Build a panel for the shifter and a block off plate for the hood where the headlights used to be. (Going with the brushed aluminum look) -Maybe add some LED of CCFL tubes (white) for a little extra lighting - Redo most of the wiring and clean it all up so it looks presentable (May even try to hide the wiring for a cleaner look) -Try to find wider rear wheels or a wider tire with a shorter sidewall (having trouble with this one) -Find new front tires similar to whats on it now Motor wise its not the factory motor. Its a Briggs 8hp. I have been scouring craigslist for a bigger motor but if I cant find one then I will settle with the 8hp. -Completely tear down and clean the whole motor (maybe paint with hi temp black as well) -Rebuild motor (Gaskets and all) -Rebuild or clean carb (Possibly get a newer carb) -Add open air cleaner similar to a cold air intake -Clean and polish exhaust stack And last but not least the lowering/suspension parts -Re do the front end. Its a hack job. I don't like it at all. -Figure out how low I want the rear. Measure, Measure, Measure lol. I am thinking of just doing somewhat of a 3-4" body drop. -Clean up the trans axle (I know it wont be seen but still haha) Been tossing around the idea with a couple friends of somehow incorporating air ride into the suspension. I'm thinking I will either spend way too much on the whole thing or get way too far in over my head and never finish the project. But I will still try to figure out how to fabricate such a crazy idea someday. I plan on keeping this for quite a while so who knows. Never seen a mower period with air ride. Would be pretty cool but I would have to rebuild EVERYTHING to do such a thing. But who knows with me. If I come up with any other mods a long the way I will add them. I will take pics throughout the whole process. For here and for the class so I can make sure I document everything. Thanks for checking out my build log.....If you have any suggestions go ahead and throw them up in here. I'm open to hearing them all. I know this is a lot to read through but I'm also keeping this as a way to remember what I wanted to do! I will also go out to the farm tomorrow and get a bunch of pics of the whole thing for you guys!

So i found an RJ to restore. Except I cant figure out exactly what it is, here are some pics. I have not seen any others with the choke and throttle pulls on hood like this...i know its not a 35 thats all i know though lol. It came with a seized up k91 which i think would be the original engine, I tore it down, the connecting rod was seized to crank shaft so i will see if i can get new rod and have a friend measure crank to see if he can regrind it...Excited about this project so any help would be great!

Well I found yet a another project to work on. lol. Been wanting a 701 for a couple years now but just never found the right deal on one. Got this one last week. Traded a 48" mower deck for it. Its in pieces but mostly there and not in too bad of shape. Has pretty much all the hard to find parts on it which is a plus. It will probably be on hold for a while but figured I would post it for now. I want to at least finish one tractor before I start on this one but that may change. When I do start on it I will probably just build a rolling chassis and then figure out what all is missing and find them then or sooner if I'm lucky. I did get the engine running yesterday and it ran pretty good but did smoke just a little bit. It will probably be torn down to inspect and at least get a valve job and honed but whatever it needs to be right will be done. Anyways here's a couple pictures of it. Its kind of scattered all over! It had the incorrect wheels on it, but I have a good set that will be used on it.

Remember the ugly yellow $25 tub cart I picked at the auction last week ? Well, I cleaned off the layer of concrete, straightened the tongue, and gave her some new paint. Now she's lookin good behind the Commando 8.

The same tanks your referring to... also came in a one piece version, easy enough to find one and just swap it out. Not sure it's a good idea to be welding up a gas tank.

lol..you don't like it? Should I go all white? All black? I'm all up for opinions...

I had a similar issue with a Craftsman hydro. I've used 5W40 or 10W30 diesel oil warmed up slightly to thin it out to aid in flushing out anything that could be sticking. It took three flushes to clean it out the last one and it seemed to have worked.

I recently acquired this trailer. Before i got my hands on it, it looked terrible! But now after sanding and a good raddle can paint job it looks great! My 212 likes to do yard work with it.a

If that's putting a project on hold for a while, I can't wait to see you in a hurry. Lol

They are the narrower rims which made the tires baloon out a little. I'd like to find a set of 520-h rims to match the swept axle up front. I like the look of the extra clearance, it makes the tractor appear more stout than she already is.

23x10.5x12 are stock tires on the 520s, should fit with no modifications! Are you using the 8.5" rims or stock C 7.5" rims? If you kept the narrower rim I could see how it may get close because the tire will "balloon" up in the middle a bit more when inflated. Just took a look at the pics, and you are most likely using the narrow rims! Makes more sense now.

FYI....I have an NOS snow blade and all brackets (as pictured above in daveoman's post) plus NOS rear axle bracket....made for the 520H tractor...guess I might as well sell it if you happen to be in Missouri as I will not ship it.....$500.00....send me a pm if interested. I might even fix ya up with a 520H w/60" deck if you bring a BIG trailer!!

I cover a hood with three coats and a fender pan with two before it ran out. So guessing, about 150 sq. ft. coverage or so per can. YMMV

Don't have to be Red? That's good, cause our horses are purple and Pink now. The Wife now has "Sparkling" Gramma horse, the black hood, now sparkly hood type. Might have to bring a Speedex too, THAT is red!

That is an awesome looking muffler ! Very good quality material and awesome craftsmanship. Old Shep is looking awesome. Please post pictures when complete. It always makes me happy when I see a product made with pride and craftsmanship.

more pics...

You need these two extension brackets.... and a different index lever (long red lever).

You Yankees are so lucky. no deals like that in north Carolina. There are 2 c160s on Craig's right now. $1300 and $1600. They both look nice and one has a tiller and a cultivator. Hours unknown. I bought a non running parts tractor for $275. Think I'm gonna take a vacation rent a giant u-haul and troll the rust belt for wheelhorses.

I'm with you STEVASAURUS I will get gasket material and make my own. I don't like the idea of any getting into hydro gear and plugging up a port and mess up a good drive unit.

Just got home from the auction Jason. I bid the snow blower to $25 and let it go for $30. The auctioneer told me the Bantams owner called and put a reserve on the tractor that was so high, he felt it would never sell. He is going to contact the owner and possibly sell it next week. I'll report back next Wed.

What Jake... no RJ's left in Michigan... moving on now to Suburbans, I see.

True. Wonder if the belt he has is 5/8" wide or worn? Garry

That depends entirely if the original engine bought with the tractor is in fact the original engine. There's little way to tell other than the serial number being in the same date range as the tractor (actually it should be a bit before the tractor, but you get the idea). Other than that, you pretty much should go with the original if original, or go with the best engine you can, in order to maintain value. It's being restored. Then restore it to the best condition you can to get the most value out of it. To give you an example, my RJ didn't have an engine when I found it, but the RJ did have a serial number. I spent the better part of 5 months locating an engine with the correct serial number to place its manufacture date a bit before that of the tractor. It make not be the original engine to the tractor, but it certainly is the "right" engine to be on the tractor, right down to its model and date of manufacture. (I did eventually put a Schnake recoil and the correct carb bowl on the engine, but at this stage of the restore I was starting with the rope.)

All the Kohler 8 thru 16 hp carburetor bowls are the same. There should be a round seal to go into the groove, and an anti-splash seal to go over that. All carburetor kits whether for Carter or Walbro carbs are the same. Just ask your supplier for a standard carburetor kit. They include both seals. And yes, a sooty plug usually indicates a "rich" condition.

haha ja precies, dat is omdat mijn Opa kwam uit Nederland. But I rarely get to practice, Dutch :(

My wife and I took off Saturday morning to go look at a D250. We came home with a D250 with loader and a parts D250. I've always wanted a D250 and finally got one! The one with the loader only had 380 hours and is in very good condition. Here are a few pictures:

Block the left front and rear tractor wheels up on a flat surface the depth you want to plow. Now lower the plow and adjust so it sets flat on the ground. This is how everything is positioned when the right wheels are in a plowed furrow. If you are not getting the depth you want tip the front of the plow down a bit. If it is going too deep raise the front of the plow a bit. It does not take much of a change to get results. This is called adjusting the suck. By design the plow will pull it's self into the ground. Garry

I'm going to make it Scott. For the last 5 years, the 1st Saturday in October is when I break out the Carhartts...I always love that first taste of fall.

At $500, I'm inclined to say you're on the high side, but since you got the original engine, and the correct 1961 deck (which are actually kind of hard to come by) , I wouldn't say your out of the range... especially out there in the PA and east region. Lots of info here. Search for Suburban 401 and read up. Enjoy your project and ask questions. Keep in mind that for many questions it will help if they're accompanied by pictures of what you're talking about. Have fun and

First paint today, top coat that is, I couldn't resist.