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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/02/2015 in all areas
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11 pointsHello, fellas, Thanks for liking my stacks. This is how I make them, they are good and heavy duty and should last for years. I was welding them together, but lately I figured out how to crimp them together and they look much nicer now, like the one in the last photo. It takes me about 2 hours to build one from scratch and the materials cost me between 10 and 12 bucks, depends on where I can buy stuff. I ask 30 dollars plus shipping ( usually 8 dollars more ) when I sell them through the mail. Thanks again for your interest , much appreciated ! I don't always have them made and on hand, I work in spurts, LOL It's just a hobby, not a job, but I like helping out with your tractors whenever and as soon as I can. I make reproduction Wheel Horse cigarette lighters and hood screws for round hood tractors at times, too. Thanks for looking, I am usually on Facebook at Wheel Horse Junkies more than I'm on Red Square, its much easier to get ahold of me there.
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6 pointsWell I found yet a another project to work on. lol. Been wanting a 701 for a couple years now but just never found the right deal on one. Got this one last week. Traded a 48" mower deck for it. Its in pieces but mostly there and not in too bad of shape. Has pretty much all the hard to find parts on it which is a plus. It will probably be on hold for a while but figured I would post it for now. I want to at least finish one tractor before I start on this one but that may change. When I do start on it I will probably just build a rolling chassis and then figure out what all is missing and find them then or sooner if I'm lucky. I did get the engine running yesterday and it ran pretty good but did smoke just a little bit. It will probably be torn down to inspect and at least get a valve job and honed but whatever it needs to be right will be done. Anyways here's a couple pictures of it. Its kind of scattered all over! It had the incorrect wheels on it, but I have a good set that will be used on it.
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5 pointsI recently acquired this trailer. Before i got my hands on it, it looked terrible! But now after sanding and a good raddle can paint job it looks great! My 212 likes to do yard work with it.a
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5 pointsHi Craig and Steve and Mike and ever one else. I am getting this from a R/S member here hopefully he will reply. Well here she is. I think next week I will be getting this 607. For the members who are not familiar about this little tractor I have been looking for over 2 years for this one. I still think it`s because of the recoil start? I would say very rare. I have only seen 2 and one was a basket case the other 1 had a line on this already. I think most opted for the 657 which is electric start. I seen lots of those and the same for 65/66`s I had a 606 until this spring but still not a 607. So this completes the series for me. From what I under stand it was dealer stock so it has a few Minor issues like decals and the seat which I have. And the engine is a 7 hp snow blower engine. I will put in the Commando 6 engine and make it look pretty. Sounds like Terry will be getting a phone call soon. This all stared years ago with a 1257 Hence T1257. I will do a complete video of what I will be doing to this tractor. I hope you enjoy the picks.
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5 pointsThe lil red cart was called to duty today.
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5 pointsSprocket, that is excellent back ground. I have been helping Gary look for a 607 for most of this year now and they are rare for finding at shows. Terry M has a 606 that is to die for...he brought it to the LaSueur show last weekend. (pictures of that are in the LaSueur show thread down in shows on the main page). I'm going to try to put a pic of Terry's horse in here.
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5 pointsI've got it right now and if I had to name it I'd call it Frustration - the Tecky carb is what's doing it to me - well the whole engine really... Anyway - the gray caps I got off CL but the chrome caps came with it so those will be leaving when the machine does. I've been applying RuGlyde once a week or so and it's helping. The metal looks to be about 3 different colors and there's honest wear on it. The front bearings are new and I put the wheels on backwards for some reason. I installed a new brake shoe and had intentions of stickers, etc. but working with Gary on this I know he's gonna get 10x what I would from the project so it will be going to him hopefully next week. In the meantime I'm looking for a replacement - something in the medium frame or round nose variety, 32"-36" deck due to storage constraints. I've seen some great machines for sale here but transport from mid-PA to MA looks challenging. Is there a "train" network to help get machines from one state to another? I'm glad you guys like the machine, I do too but I think helping Gary complete a set is a good enough reason for me to move it along.
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5 points
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4 points
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4 pointsP.S. > they sound as good as, if not better than, any store bought muffler, they are not loud - about the same as a stock one. I've been painting them with High Temp Rustoleum stove and grille paint and it seems to be holding up good, otherwise they would be just bare metal and would rust if left out in the damp. They are standard 1 inch pipe threads, the coupler can be changed that is on the bottom if you need to reduce it up or down to another size by getting another coupler at your hardware store. I only make them this one size.
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3 pointsYeah boy, I'm gonna do the tractor parade... wouldn't miss it...too much fun cruisin' around town with all the big guys. Been the only there for the past couple years.
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3 points
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3 pointsReal nice job there Ed! I really like that cart never saw one like that before looks just like a wheel barrow. It would be cool if it had quick attach handles so it could serve as a tow behind like it is and also a wheel barrow?
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3 points
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2 pointsBeen working on my "jalopy" pretty hard the last couple weeks, It was my 657 that I flipped the frame upside down. It is still all original WH, except the sheet metal and the seat. Same rear end, frame, front axle, steering and engine. It's a centrifugal clutch now and the belt is routed under the floor pan. It's really working great, took it for a 4 mile ride the other night up along the back road by the creek. It's name is "Old Shep", lol It looks more and more like a little truck every day , so I'm building a stake body bed on the back of it now.
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2 points
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2 pointsIll have to do that for sure then! I have a couple of real old ones out in the shed! Thanks for the idea!!
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2 pointsThat's awesome Gary!! I'm sure the rim color and the hubcaps aren't original but they're cool as heck. Mike.........
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2 pointsI went to the Files and did a search for Chart. 33 of them will come up and I just go through them to find the one I want. This belt chart in many cases requires a long model number to find the correct one but the later models have the model name listed as well. The whole chart is listed by model year. Garry
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2 pointsI like your idea Paul. I may have to consider that.
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2 pointsBuckrancher (Brian) used Yamabond #8 (??) as a gasket fix for one of his 2 piece gas tanks on a round hood in a Restoration thread. Personally, I would cut my own gasket for the tranny. It is too easy and the material is only $6...the Yamabond is probably $25 or more for a tube of it. Autozone carries Karo-Pak gasket material...it is 1' x 3' x 1/32"...I've used this in about 15 transmissions, with no gasket sealer, and have not had a leak. You only need to cut out the inside and punch the holes, you can trim the outside after you get it together with a razor knife. ACE sells the punch, if you want, or you could use the right size shell casing or the razor knife to do the holes. I too would be concerned about sealer getting loose on the inside of a hydro. I would think TORO still has the gaskets for about $6.
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2 pointsCareful. As I said I have never done this repair but triple check about using rtv or any other liquid sealer. I can't remember what the material was but somebody was talking about their hydro being gummed up with something they had used as a sealer.
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2 pointsAfter the work I did on it tonight it is going to sound much better..... You will have to do another blow by... Pretty darn clean in there. It is in fact the original engine, I checked the numbers.
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2 pointsIt's a push in grommet. It is probably cracked and hard. New ones are cheap. Drain the tank, pull out the old one with a tug and a twist. When installing the new one, i always lubricate it with a touch of grease.
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1 pointSo, finally starting my first documented resto/mod. This a vision i will slowly update and work on from now, through this next coming year. So here are the outlines of this project... - 310-8 - Kohler Magnum 20 (as long as she runs) - Chrome rims and tires (later on, budget permitting) - Cool Decals So, first off in one of these photos i have my first repair right away, in the top of the console the guide for the steering shaft is twist and bent, so that will require some plating, also any tips for getting that console off the steering shaft? It looks like i will begin the process of dissembly, cleaning and priming some of the larger bodywork. seems my photos are to big for my allowed upload size, how do i get it bigger? Do i need to become a supporter?
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1 pointThe weird thing with mine is they were oriented correctly on the computer (Mac), but if I upload them, they were rotated to one side. For the sake of this post, I'll say left, though I really don't remember which direction. So, I rotated it on the Mac, even though it was then sideways on the Mac (toward the right), uploaded them, and they were still rotated left. If I open the original picture, and simply save it without doing anything, it is then oriented correctly after uploading. I also noticed that even though they might be rotated after uploading, when you click on them to enlarge them, the full size is oriented correctly. I think the part that is rotated is a preview that is somehow embedded in the picture. I just posted 5 pictures and the odd thing is 2 are rotated sideways and 3 are fine. if you give me a plow for my 520h ill tell you why. ok that didn't work here's why the 3 that are ok are less then 100kb the 2 that are sideways are 152kb and 133kb . just a thought, but I will try on my next post
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1 pointI like that look. I did it with my 1054 (front and rears) but went with silver instead of white. Mike........ Final pics on the tractor... Mike............
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1 pointI have put a loader and a deck on a 12 hp. 312 A and it handled it just fine. and it had a 48 in deck, The 20hp Onan will do great as far as power. I even put a loader on an electro 12 and run a till also All that being said, you still have to know the tractor limitations as far as frame strength, and spindle strength. and as with any loader on a garden tractor, never steer it when it's sitting still with a load in the bucket, wait till it moving. And if you have a D series make sure your thrust bearing under your front axles are there and in good condition. Day 6, everything I thought was right yesterday turned out not to be . So after some rework on the loader under carriage, to the tune of 4hrs. I got the deck on the tractor and it works with the loader frame, so back to more grinding and welding tomorrow.
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1 point
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1 pointI take pics with my I phone and download them to my PC. If I get one sideways or upside down I can change them on my desktop to make them right. I tried turning my monitor to make them look right but I kept knocking my Marvin the Martian doll off the desk with the monitor cord. Then I have to fish him out from under the desk. PITA!!!
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointIf you decide to go with the Rat Rod theme be sure to incorporate a few horse shoes in the design; after all, it is a .
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1 pointRegarding the hydro oil filter... I have found the Wix 57102 to be a more Toro/Wheel Horse correct specification. Both the 51410 and the 57102 will fit and are proper hydro filters w/o check valves, but the 51410 is 21 micron--the 57102 is 10 micron (same as Toro 79-5270). It is more expensive, however. About $23, to be exact. That's still half the price of the Toro 79-5270. And, the Wix 51764 is the same specs as the 51762, but with the bonus of a hex fitting on the end (0.695" longer due to hex nut)--if you find that sort of thing useful.
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1 pointthats why I say don't gob it on there, if you get to much, when you put it back together, it squeezes some of the sealant to the inside then eventually comes off in there, witch really won't hurt it anyway, the oil in it wouldn't allow it to harden or hurt anything, unless it's just ALOT , like a whole tube or something, lol, then I could see it gumming something up. But anyway, iwouldjust go with regular gasket material, cut to to fit and wah-la
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1 point
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1 pointLooks like you've got a good one to start on, Jake. I'm looking forward to watching you turn this back into a new one.
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1 pointI'm not sure I'm seeing your drawing correctly and understanding your description of the issue. You've got the idler on the outside of the belt??
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1 pointis this the grommet you need? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PRI0/707461.oap?ck=Search_7-07461_-1_2126&keyword=7-07461
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1 pointI agree but I could not pass it up for the price and besides that I am only the third owner and I know the first two.
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1 point
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1 pointThat is what I was thinking. Thanks Brandon...I will check that out I need to get all 10 of my GT's working so we (family) can participate in a parade in 4 weeks.
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1 point
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1 pointDino's gathering around a computer is a sign of wisdom and strength. All I have are a bunch of Bongo Monkeys. They can be an obnoxious lot!
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1 pointThanks Bob, to be fair I had fallen behind with updating this, so your not all to blame Thanks Roadapples, I'm going to need good attention to detail as this is how she looked at the end of today! I think this may of had something to do with it
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1 point
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1 pointBob, great minds really do think alike! I did the exact same thing to my Suburban and could not have been more pleased with it. The bed liner holds up as you would expect and should give the old girl another 50 years of good service.
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1 point
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1 pointI did an 18 HP Vanguard in a C-120 It's a tight fit. I didn't buy a kit as I did it in 1990 with a 16 HP and up graded to the 18 in 2010. The 18 and the 23 are the same size. In a 416 you shouldn't have any problems as there is a lot more room.. I'm not sure how high your power take off shaft is on your engine. I had to raise the engine 7/8" to get mine to get it to the same height as the 12 Kohler. Buy the engine with the wiring and switch already on the engine and with a 1 1/8" shaft you don't really need a kit If your good a doing a little metal work.
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1 point