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This $5 48" blade followed me home from the auction this morning. No frame, just a blade that needs a new scraper bar. It'll replace the 42" on the Yammy and give me the width I need when angled.

Howard did they look like these? Bud Makes these. He's working on a Hot Rod Horse now but when he's done I hope to get some from him when he makes more.

Become a supporter, and you won't have to worry about the photo limits.

All good methods listed here. Just do yourself a favor, and exercise some common sense. This is a touch-and go feely kind of thing.Tapping doesn't mean BFH. Slitting doesn't mean cutting thru. Heat can be good, but there might be a cost for that transferring a bunch of heat to the block. I wouldn't be surprised if you needed a new head gasket from doing this method. (they are known to go because of exhaust heat as it is.) Just take your time, go easy, and it can certainly be done.

I bought 2 sets of 8.5 wide rims from a 520 and a workhorse 1800 this weekend, and tonight I was looking at how clean rust wise one set was well I should say no rust, then I saw a scrape in the paint and it was shiny under it so I grabed a rag and some thinner and cleaned the paint off, mind you it took a hour to clean what you see trying not to scratch the chrome yes I said chrome, they look to have been painted when new primed and painted silver I think these are 420LSE wheels, now if I had the fronts I ask the seller if they have them. I guess buy enough junk you get a prize now and then.

Just want to thank you all for helping me out with the questions on my commando 8 with the wiring, starting and all of the other tractor questions i have had with other horses. It is so great to be able to have a place to go. And get good solid answers that you can trust. But to get back to it I got her fired up this morning and the little 8 horse kolher purred like a kitten. All the lights work, cig lighter, gen light. Thank again

@kudzu3 Are you going to measure that crank journal and cylinder bore before ordering parts? Kohler engines will allow up to 0.003" of wear to the bore, and you can get over-sizes rings in +0.003, +0.010, +0.020, and +0.030", also the crank journal cannot be more that 0.001" too small without having it turned. Crank journal can be turned down up to 0.010" under and a 10-under connecting rod can be had rather easily. Since it's already open, you might as well do it right.

Don, if the deal is right I'd suggest just buying it. RJ's are getting hard to find and if it's got a cast steering wheel it's likely a goodie. Deal with the details when it's yours. By the way......

My granddaughters came over today to celebrate Papa's birthday and brought a little something with them. What a great day. Thanks girls.

That's a great looking rig. Every since you posted the first pic of this truck I find myself cruising Craig's list hoping to find my own back to the past rig. Dang I need to stop viewing your boat and truck threads! Lol

I took the truck to a few area exhaust shops to get a few estimates on a dual exhaust system... The last time I had custom duals put on it set me back 350 bucks. That was quite a while back though. I took it to one shop and they were giving me the run around, he really didn't want to give me an estimate because he didn't know how long it would take. The second shop the owner looked out his office window to peek at the truck and told me 1400.00. No thanks. On my way home from work i stopped at one last shop and he told me 500 if I supply the mufflers. I told him they were already in the bed of the truck and if he could do it right away he had a deal. I couldn't stand to drive it another mile with it sounding the way it did...I've also since added a trailer hitch and hauled my first small load of wood...

Oh sorry. well the manual that i down loaded for the electrical did not have the generator light or the cig lighter in the schematic. But then was sent one that did by the red square members. Then when i tried to start it. I had good spark, fuel, but just would not fire up. Come to find out my float was stuck open. So it would just flood out. Fixed that and she off and running great.

Never emailed. Just used the ole telephone. Had many good experiences with companies where others had issues using email. Emails easily get missed. Always happy to help even with my old cab they haven't made in years. Had the material in a few days to boot. There accounts receivable must be terrible though. I got a call months later saying my card declined. I had changed my billing address and that's what screwed up the transaction. I laughed and said your just charging me now lol

It worked! The muriatic acid removed it all with a just a few minutes brushing it on. I was able to polish the bearing up pretty good following a "how to" on you tube. The previous owner said that the engine smoked some prior to it breaking, so I plan to replace the rings, rod and all gaskets and put it all back together. I think it will work. Thanks all!

The Resto: It will be a little strange writing this part of the story since we have finished the resto already but I will still write it in the present format. Hopefully it will be easier to keep straight from the past story part of this thread. There are many more stories to come and still a few more old photos and slides. I keep "unearthing" them as I search through hundreds of old photos in my parents basement! It should has been a ride down memory lane. I know it is mentioned here on this site many times over but make sure you take lots of pictures before you begin an every nut and bolt disassembly of your tractor. Especially if you have never done it before! You may think that you could NEVER forget how it goes back together, BUT... I will make some casual observations about some of these prerestoration shots: Notice the duct tape holding the SR handle to the steel lever. Dad didn't want to lose it and so it was a quick "temporary" fix that went on in about 1995! Notice the "boat" light attached to the back of the tool box. I remember after we sold the IH Scout in 1992 (a decision that we all regret to this day), dad needed to place the Horse back in primary snow removal duty. Much of that is done in darkness, either before or after work. So, we went to our local store and picked up a fog light kit for the front and this light for the back. The switch to operate it was drilled into the tunnel cover. Here you can see the effects of 25 years of hard use by two boys! The tractor was always stored inside and well maintained. I wish I could say that we never abused it but that would be a lie! I'm pretty sure that all the while we cut the lawn with it, my brother and I went from full reverse to full forward in one simple motion. It was worked! Here you can see the bite marks on the steering wheel from the only other owner this machine ever had and that would be dating back to the early 70's. The switch where the cigarette lighter used to be is what operated the fog lights They don't build them like they used to! This is the original delco-remy SG. Up to this restoration it had never been rebuilt and was still doing its job. Dad replaced the regulator back in the early 80's but this thing had never been serviced during the last 50 years! That 875 decal is the original and in great shape. We are going to tape it off and keep it! A keen eye will pick up Cub yellow under some of the parts. Dad worked at the IH dealership and so there were times that he was able to get a necessary part from the used stash there... That old Sundstand is a great hydro! I can't say enough good about it! Not a big fan of the Fram "oil filter"! We will replace it with a correct Hydraulic filter before the restoration is finished! A discerning eye will notice the cast stamp above the pulley on the engine. Dad repowered this tractor in 1979 with a 12hp K301 designed for generator usage. That enormous oil pan holds nearly 3 quarts of liquid gold to keep this engine lubed and running cool! The original exhaust elbow that dad made to hold his "then new" IH Cub muffler. It served the purpose for 30 years plus but that will get discarded and a new one made that is cleaner looking and promotes better exhaust flow! These detail shots show you our starting point but every scuff and scratch tells its own story and we will continue to cover some of those along the way. Stay tuned in...

This will be my second one with a deck and loader. Hope pics are coming. I run the pump off of the left side of the Kohler and it runs full time, like live hydraulics. the deck mount was place far back of the tack matic as to not effect it. and it works great and the deck also acts a low wt. balancer for stability Here are pics of the new messed loader I found

I am using the same thing, works great. The only thing that will not fit is a hood, frame and c series seat pan.

If you don't have a pipe tap, take a cut-off wheel or hacksaw and cut a vertical slot down the threads in a new 1" pipe nipple, then screw this in like you were tapping a hole. Half to one turn forward, quarter turn back, using cutting oil. It'll act like a pipe tap to clean the threads. Not as elegant, but it'll do in a pinch.

If the pipe is still there, cut it off with a hacksaw or sawzall about 1/4" from the block. Take a small chisel and hammer and collapse the pipe toward the center. Grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. I've done it that way at least 4 times.

I've had a few where the nipple was broken off right at the block. I carefully sabre sawed a slot inside the pipe but not deep enough to slice the block. Then with a drift pin, tap, tap, tap on the pipe until it started to collapse, then when I was able to grap the pipe with vice grips, turn the pipe (it was curling inward) until it collapsed enough to draw it out. Half hour at the most. Clean the threads, vac'd out the block. All is well.

I just recently removed one from a K181. The 1" collapsed and broke at the threads when I tried to loosen it with a pipe wrench. Then I used a small chisel to remove the remaining pipe thread from the block.

Hello everyone, First time wheel horse owner and thought I would introduce myself. Just bought a C105 with mower deck, wheel weights & chains, and snow blade attachment. A great do all tractor for my property. Runs like a top, but thought it would be a great fall/winter restoration project. I am so glad I found this forum. It is full of great information and knowledgeable individuals. Thank you everyone! Bacdo.

Hi, First off, thank you for all the great info here! I found this place looking for manuals online and have been here nearly nonstop since. These things are addictive! I inherited my fathers C105, next thing I knew I had a 68 raider 12, and a 77 C160 follow me home. I'm a retired Navy guy that liked it out here in Washinton, so I stayed. But I am envious of you folks back east when I look in the classifieds, these things are scarce out here. I just did a quick refresh on the 160, thanks to the help on here. Here is a few pics from before and after. It will be a worker, and I still need to do the deck. It also has a tiller and a blade.

I would like to sell one of my tractors to purchase another but am not sure the exact year or model. So not sure what kind of value to put on it. I was told it could be a 1960 based on the serial number. It has a 3.5 hp Clinton. Can anyone help. Thanks

I don't think $700 is a bad price for a new cab. I paid $125 for the used cab I bought at the Big Show two years ago. It was all there and in fair condition. I did paint all the framework. I modified the right front side to collect the heat from my vented belt guard. I would not have been able to do this to a new cab that I paid $700 for.

Hey !!!!!!!! i ask first.!!!!...... But seriously......i did see them at the show...Bud was off the front desk ,,,,,i walked away...my memory being Schnizzle...( i forgot to go back...3 days !!!!!! and i forgot ??? Not sure there is a pill for this.. they look very cool.....and perportunal to a small tractor.........

My cab is a 520 cab going on a 73 12. They bolt on. Lots of parts but if you take it apart in sections it isn't too bad. The worst is the front frame. Once it's together a few bolts and it's off. The whole cab in one piece isn't terribly heavy but it's big and bulky. I have the roof and panels up on a shelf. The front frame, roof frame and rear brackets hanging on hooks. Now that all of my holes are drilled and located. I could get the cab back on in an hr.

Now thats a truck!

WOW! you got a whopping deal!

My 1988 520hc has a lot of rust on the rims, so I doubt they would even look good even if they did. But hey, I dont have to feel bad about rubbing a little paint off, right...

Lots of good advice and I think Coadster32 summed it up well. I would try red heat first, if that fails slit the pipe with a saw and then with a small chisel and medium hammer tap from all around the outside to the center to gradually collapse as much of the pipe as you can. Then even try to unthread the pipe with the hammer strokes. It might not be instant but you will be able to do it with some patience.

We need to know .....what was the problem?

I have a section of 3/8 X3 flat stock. Easy to cut off 48" and drill 5 holes.

harbor freight $150 and buy 2 tubes of calk some new door seals and a led light for inside and you got yourself a cheap inexpensive cabinet. I uses walnut shells for thin stuff and aluminum oxide for other stuff.

not as yet, I've been doing the wiring recently while i mull over various ideas. I've got the horn, cig lighter and headlights all wired in and the plough light just needs refitting along with the seat pan to be completely wired in. callum

I added a dust buddy cyclonic catcher. Use my shop vac. 50 bucks and works great for filtration and keeping the visibility higher in my HF cabinet. If you use the HF much, your wear out the gloves. I am not keen on reaching into the cabinet to swap the gloves so I reversed the glove collars to the outside and bought slightly longer gloves. Now I can easily swap when necessary. Pics on my GT14 restomod thread.

I think SaveOldIron just photoshopped (painted?) that display to represent what a display might look like if it were implemented. I have not had a chance to do anything with my ideas yet. I have two little ones running around taking away much of my project time.

Mike, welcome to red square. Dont forget pics when you finally get your horse. Re hours, high hours scare me, ck engine oil and rear fluids for cleanliness, all my stuff except the 854 are low hour units with good maintenence being done. There, now that I said it, something will blow up. Lol best of luck. Edit: my 520 has about 260 hours on it. glenn

If everything on a farm has it's use, what kind of hay is that going to haul? Nice project, look forward to seeing the updates!

Just note that even Black Diamond at 8.00 a bag can add up if you are blasting with a can or outside and not capturing/recycling the media.

If it's just aluminum on the crank journal, and I'm guessing it is, hydrochloric/muriatic acid will take it off. Outside job! But brush some on, then some more until... Crank might polish out without turning it!

That's a great way to strengthen the herd!

Copy a picture into Paintbrush and play with it a little...save it and then copy and paste. I know it is not that easy, but pretty close.

Sparky, you had to go and ask Mike for a story; when will you ever learn? But, Mike had a real good story so I guess it's OK. Thanks Mike.

The Story: After a winter and summer of the straight pipe, dad decided he had had enough of that and bought an IH Farmall Cub tractor muffler. Remember, he was working for an IH dealership as a technician and received a price break on all IH parts. Coming from a farming family, he liked the "tractor look" more than the original canister look. Amazingly, this is the muffler that is still on it today! I'll have to take a close up picture of the embossed IH logo pressed into the rim of the muffler. He just cut the straight pipe down to the correct length and clamped the new muffler on. Here dad is plowing his garden in the fall of about 1977 and this is also about the time that I was born. He said he would've loved to have a set of AG's for plowing back then but money was in very short supply for them. One thing I love about my dad, is his willingness to find a way to make something work with the resources at hand. He already had the chains for snow blowing and that would give him the grip. He now needed weight for traction and so he located a used flywheel laying out back at the dealership and was able to acquire that very cheap! Now he had a 75 lb weight for the landside wheel. Here you can see a better picture of the "wheel weight" and the heavily modified Bolens plow. The plow itself has an interesting story. It was a trade in unit with a Bolens tractor and they were going to scrap it out. Dad asked if he could have it for his garden. Obviously, the Bolens attachment system was totally different than the WH sleeve hitch and so more modifications were necessary. Dad cut the long mounting frame off and welded on his own flat stock "tongue" to adapt it for use on his hitch. The only major downside with this plow set up is that, unlike a Brinly, the Bolens plow has no adjustment for suck on the plow beam. All the adjustment came from the frame that dad removed. He must've done a pretty good job when he welded the "tongue" to the beam or got really lucky, because the plow does a decent job as you can see in these photos. Remember, he is plowing here with an 8hp engine, belt primary drive tractor! I love that! In this picture, you can also see that the tractor didn't come with the SG belt cover, dad found one of those later on and installed it. Another thing I just remembered while looking at the first pic, dad would take the RD deck and back over the whole garden, kinda like a stalk chopper and chop everything up to prepare it for plowing. That deck was so tough and still is to this day. Dad said that he always wanted to make a disc harrow for cutting up garden stubble in the fall and knocking down the lumps in the spring but he never got that around to it. So, the method that he chose got the job done and the Iron Horse was built strong enough to handle it! It's funny to me that I plow with my garden tractors today for recreation, dad did it back then out of necessity. I'm sure he looked at it as a chore in those days but now we occasionally go together to a plow day where we are plowing a field for "enjoyment and relaxation" for the better part of a day! It will be so much fun to get the horse back out in a garden or a field, hook up the old Bolens one bottom, and turn some earth just like dad has been doing for over 4 decades--that's a well built machine!!!

Knobs and final engine and deck decals installed. All decals by Denny Clarke and http://www.RedoYourHorse.com! Finally done!

I can now say it's completed! Even cut the grass with it today.

Craig, I think its about time for intervention! I think its time to start looking for a 12 step program, and by that, I don't mean Step 1. Buy a , Step 2. Buy another , etc.... Matt

Well these came off a 520-HC not sure on the year.

hi and welcome to my wheel horse tractor forum i hope you all enjoy it and would like any suggestions you have to go on the suggestion board and would also like you to keep it clean or you will be suspended from my board thanks and have fun chris