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Well I didn't want to buy any more machines. I am out of space and have no time to spend with them like I used to. So at the last minute I decided to grab my boy and take our 420 LSE and Jacobsen Chief to a parade/show about 25 minutes away with some good friends. As I was lined up for the parade, one of the other club members came up to me and said a fellow across the field has some Horses he wants to sell. I almost didn't go, but I have learned a long time ago that you follow up on all leads. He mentioned to me he bought one at auction a while back and was planning on fixing the broken axle, but never got around to it. I almost lost interest until he said it had chrome rims and was a special edition. So needless to say I cruised on over to his place after the parade and we struck a deal. I am glad I had my tractor money with me at the time. the bottom of the seat is ruined....but hey maybe I will ship it to KenB and have him do his magic. Also as you can see the axle is broken.....of course that will be fixed. In some ways this one is better than my first one and in some cases the first one has better parts. so needless to say #2 is now home waiting for some love. The first photo is how I got it. The last two pictures are after a quick 20 minute wash. Only 580 hours on the meter but no clue on what number this one is.

HERE is the tractor just picked up for 200

Cutting and hauling logs today. Used the FEL to carry logs and lift for easy cutting. Many have said these FEL can't pick up much, well I say many just don't have any idea what these are capable of. The short 12' log is an Oak the large end is 16" the other is around 12". The long log is a Jack pine very wet. Close to 30' long.

I think I still had something missing, so I contacted the folks at the Badge Factory and they sent me this the other day. I think I can finally say I am done with this one.

I saw this on Facebook, looked interesting. It's called a stone boat. Looks like you slide each half under the stone and drag it.

Besides red square most of my time on the internet lately has been devoted to watching these mammoth machines. Fun fact they have dynoed a couple the 65hp had 1800ftlb of torque at 300rpm the 100hp had 3000ftlb of torque. I still find it hard to believe that they ran farms with them!

Nice pick up Scott!! What in the heck did the guy do to it to break a 1 1/8" axle??

Today I was able to finally stop down and see Ken's new ride. As usual he was detailing and getting it right. I could not believe how good the paint looked after he buffed it. We went for a little ride and let me tell you something... this truck is tight and right !! When we got back to his house I decided to see if I could get any shine on my truck using the wheel and compound and you know what ... it shinned a little. I plan on buffing my entire truck as well now Here are a few pics of them together.

Bringing this 522xi home

Many of us here have run onto the guy that has a car, truck, or Wheel Horse sitting off in the weeds or bushes that they won't sell. Well, fast forward 20 years and:

actually, he's got 2 out of 200. That makes Scott a 1-percenter. Nice grab!

Today I finished up detailing the outside of the truck. This truck still wears its original paint, it came out pretty nice and I'm very happy with it.. Under hood it needs the most detailing and repainting of some parts. I'll be replacing all hoses, they are the original hoses with original hose clamps, I will save the clamps and reuse them, I like the original clamps much better. One valve cover gasket is leaking a little so new gaskets will get done as well. Hopefully Monday a new dual exhaust system with some throaty mufflers...

Ok....maybe not "on" a Wheel Horse, but close. I bought a truck recently and it came with a Magnaflow dual exhaust that is "supposed" to fit. Not sure if I will be attempting to use it or not but since it was sitting behind the previous owners garage and now its alongside my garage I started to wonder if anyone had moved in (critters!). So I slid it over the end of the exhaust on my C-165 and opened her up! Didn't see any critters but did get plenty of leaves and grass type of stuff, mouse nest stuff that is. Let it run for about 10 minutes and shoved an electricians snake up both pipes to dislodge anything that was stuck. Mike.........

You either have 1" or 1 1/8" axles... 1" axles use SKF 9815.....TORO # 100863 1 1/8" axles use SKF 11050....TORO # 100443 Like Garry said...NAPA or Motion Industries or your TORO dealer. There is usually a reason they start leaking, make sure your bearing is OK by checking for up and down or side to side play. You should have very little to no play.

Then, there are some you wouldn't mind seeing go. (example shown here, from a local C/L ad)

When I reinstalled the muffler I did not have the correct angle. I found this out whe I tried to put the mower deck belt on the mule drive. The belt was hitting the muffler too. I the reposition the muffler pipe and sovlved both problems.

Making a fully hydraulic snow/dirt blade for my C-195, got the ram mounted on the blade and the frame work, just need to plum it into the second port of the controls. would post pics, but I guess I'am maxed out on pic space? should get the plumbing finished tomorrow.

Hello guys, i was given a wheelhorse 5xi series, the model # tag is faded and all i can make out is the MODEL 785...... its got a kohler 20hp v twin, its a nice tractor but theres one big problem, you know that cast looking pice on the end of the steering shaft that the steering arms connect to??? well mines smashed.... all pieces are there but how big of a pain is it to fix that? is i weldable or if not how expensive are they? oh this also cam with a huge snow blower, a 5 foot deck, a cultivator thing and a tow behind grader thing....

Wait...wait...wait...you got the machine and all attachments, for FREE!? Ill give you double what you gave for it! lol Naw, great find though...wish I were that lucky. I'd settle with finding 1 free attachment.

At the Cumming GA show they do use steam tractors to run a saw mill but low demand so there isn't a shower of sparks. That thing doesn't even grunt when a log gets fed into the saw.

I guess they didn't use those tractors for cutting hay. All those sparks would have set the field on fire Which reminded me of this http://www.rt.com/usa/farmer-colorado-fire-tractor-970/

You guys east of Minnesota always get the good stuff!!!!!

Chrome Wheels, WOW! They sure did't look Chrome in the first pre-wash photo . . .

actually, he's got 2 out of 200. That makes Scott a 1-percenter. Nice grab! Oh, i Mustafa got mixed up with the amount of 520-8's that were made.

I am sure your local muffler shop could bend the pipe so it would exhaust to the rear of the WH, attached a wagon or trailer to support the magnaflow and you would be talk of the neighbors.

It's a 1/2" stud. It's possible that mine was modified prior to me getting it but this is what I have. You could go with something different as long as it is secure on the arm. Also, I stand corrected and will blame it on old age. I mentioned the cross was on the 60's and I got that because the supplier had both and said the cross was the 60. Well, I should have jumped out of my chair again and looked rather than relying on my memory

Bend the wishbone selector making the tranny want to pop out of gear or not engage at all, chew the edges off all the gears to a point where you can't get it to engage the speed you want, stress and destroy the bearings that everything rides on in the case, snap a tooth or two on a gear thus elimination that speed or all of them depending on the gear that is damaged. (And the list goes on). :< ) Complete stop before changing speeds.

But, wait...what???

sure did, now I need to figure out how to do the special dancing critters

The verticals are lighter duty machines that are basically lawn tractors or lawn mowers. I have had issues with the friction clutches on the older verticals. The electric clutch on my vertical 252H works beautifully. The horizontals are heavier duty, more rugged, and considered garden tractors that can handle heavier duty chores like plowing and tilling. A vertical in nice shape like yours is good to have along with a horizontal machine. For plowing, your machine would be too light for me where I live in the North East. I use a D160 that weighs over 1500 pounds with the plow on the front and a large custom made cement block on the back. Basically, if it is a Wheel Horse, they are all good.

I've been spending way too much time on the wheel horse, but it is addictive. I took care of the weak factory tie rods and replaced those with the threaded rod and aluminum bushing method talked about on this forum. The aluminum rod was a bear to fit into the threaded rod, but I got it reamed out. Spent some time working on the deck repairs too. Looking for a dial a height knob and a mule drive knob for the front. Also spent some time painting the seat and panels. I haven't touched the hood yet and most likely wont. The steering gear bracket was also cracked on both sides. I had a welder weld the two pieces back together and I had him put a reinforcement piece in front to make it stronger. This is the welded bracket. Hope it helps with the weak spot in the steering system.

Welcome I'm in Champaign just up the road. You'll find a lot of help here. I don't know why people around here are Cardinals or Cubs fans. I'm a native Chicago south sider GO SOX!

After hours of internet searching and researching, I got the wheel horse bug! I started looking for our old family tractor and thought I'd find another one. It was an old 66' Cub Cadet. I found a few on the internet, but after researching about the tractor I found out that it may not be the best purchase for me. What came up mostly was the love of the wheel horse and I became hook and starting looking for those type tractors. I found many across the state but it is almost impossible to view all of them due to vast distances. My top three were a 64' 1054, a 67 1057 and a C 100. After thinking it over I decided on the C 100. It was well taken care of and should provide a lot more life I'm in the processes of cleaning it up and doing some modified painting of certain parts. Basically tune up stuff. Mower deck needs some holes patched, but it does seem pretty clean. The plow is in great shape. Best of all, it came with about 7 various manuals and brochures for viewing .

Current restore is a 704, traded for this tractor from Prondzy (my son) he picked this up in Iowa from a Redsquare member. It was all in a box when Prondzy received it. To date complete motor overhaul, need fuel pump rebuild. Trans has all new bearings and a few new gears. Have purchased all new stainless hardware, decals. finishing up paint work then final assembly and bring this beauty back to life. Can't wait to hear that Kohler sing. Enjoy Thanks for looking Tom

WOW! Great find! Now you have 2 out of the 225!

Maybe pulling the fuses made a bad connection in the block better and allowed it to start by closing a safty circuit?

The model number you have given us (73400) is a '93 314-8 which uses the Kohler Magnum engine. Since this is the switch that you removed from a running tractor it is reasonable to presume it will work again. The terminals on the wires make me suspect that a previous owner may have improvised a bit and done some rewiring. It appears that only four wires have terminals on them and you have a five terminal switch. Since the switch you have is not the one shown in the wiring diagram and the wiring has been tampered with we will need to develop our own diagram. Using a 12 volt test light or a Volt meter set for DC Voltage on a range that will work for 12 volts ( 30 volt +/-) ground one lead and check the wires to see which one goes to the battery; label it "B". Put a piece of tape over the "B" terminal so you don't touch it in the next steps. ( probably the red one) Using a continuity tester or an ohm meter on the lowest setting place one lead on the small wire on the starter solenoid and check the remaining wires to see which one goes to it; mark this wire as "S". (probably the tan one. The black wire should be a ground wire, check it for continuity to ground. Label it "G" The dark blue wire should go to your ignition magneto. Follow the wire by hand and it should go in behind the flywheel cover on the engine. Mark it "M" The white wires should go to the center terminal of the voltage regulator. Mark it as "L" Now you have a couple of choices; get the correct switch or we can figure out how to make the one you have work. If you want to use the one you have you will have to make a diagram of how it functions. put the key in a vice and put the switch on it; using a continuity tester or ohm meter make a diagram of what terminals are making a connection with each other with the switch OFF. Now make another diagram of the ones that make contact in the run position, and a third diagram of the contacts in the start position. Post the diagrams on this thread and get some input from "Saveoldiron" and others including me; if it worked before it should work again! Good luck. to

here's mine, random as ever UTAH,TCU,MICHIGAN,ILLINOIS,IOWA,RICHMOND,RUTGERS,NORTHWESTERN,PENN ST.,BYU,INDIANA,WISCONSIN,NOTRE DAME,PURDUE,VIRGINIA TECH

Well. I have acquired another 1960 Suburban 400 hood so that I can make one good complete hood that is historically accurate. It has the gas tank straps welded in nicely already. So, just some metal work and paint and that should be checked off the list. Also, I have a reproduction 1960 belt cover on its way--should be here Monday or Tuesday. It is made of the same gauge steel, so just some paint and nobody will be able to tell that it's not original. I found a bag of hardware containing the stop collars for each location, and a couple pins. That just leaves that idler pulley and its hardware to mount it on the clutch assembly. 3" diameter, 3/8" stud, 1/2" belt channel... is this what I am looking for?

That's exactly how to do it and is fairly easy

Just a reminder that we are still on for the 19th !!

15x30 should work well for window. depends on what you plan to use. On my modified HF I use regular 1/8 inch glass pains and when heavily etched just replace. It runs me 5 bucks and I get 3-4 weeks use. It's convenient as the 24 inches works out to half the larger sheet so I pay for less to no wasted glass when they cut it for me.

Nice score Mike! That tractor looks real clean and its not even broke in with just 300 hrs. on it! Tough call on whether to sell it or Ezra. You, know what the peanut gallery will say, Just keep them both!. I'm in the same boat as you though so I understand space limitations...

Ya think a couple cans of Regal Red will get it in the Big Show next year? That, and some stickers might just do it.

Correct set your meter to the DC 20 volt range i pointed to in the pic below. V~ scale is for AC voltages V ___ is for + and - DC voltages - - -

@WHX4 There are several products out there like this, but I would suggest using glazing putty rather than the high build primer. The putty takes about a 1/2 hour to dry, and then you can immediately sand it smooth. Higher quality repairs, and much faster process than what you're planning. Also, I would suggest doing the sand blasting, ultra sonic, then lightly sand blast again. The "brownish" you're seeing is rust forming on the surface. It'll eventually work its way back out in about three years after the restore. I would do the last sandblast, spray them off with air, wipe down with Preps-All, and get them lightly into primer in about 15 minutes time. Then use the glazing putty to fill any small imperfections. That way the rust is gone for good, and the surface is smooth and ready for paint. Just a suggestion. ttps://advanceautopaint.com/shop/usc-red-glazing-putty/ My RJ rims started out like this: And ended up looking like this. That is the same rim and tire as above.

He's not wrong, I had a C-101 for about 6mths now I also have a C-161 and I still search every other day to see if any more are near me that need to be saved. That looks a nice tractor. Welcome to the forum.

A nice choice you made there.

Here is the real U-Tube video...

Hank, your doing great. My opinion would be to keep this thread for the teardown & rebuild, why not? Its allready up an running. But that up to you. If you look around this site I think thats how most are done. Best of luck. Glenn