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I hear ya there Aldon. A truck camper would be a lot of fun. I would want one fully pimped out, toilet, shower, the whole shebang! But it needs to be period correct to my truck. I have wanted one for a real long time now. Since the late 80's when I had my 86 Ford F-250 4x4 to be exact... As I get a little older a good nights sleep is becoming a lot more important. At this years show I slept like crap in my van for two straight nights and that does have an effect on how the weekend goes. Here is a picture of a camper I restored inside and out a few yrs. back...

for $250 you should be all over that like Oprah on a baked ham! Looks like a well kept tractor I believe that's an old HH100 engine. Solid engine, poor carburetors. Buy a brand new carb off ebay and enjoy!

the deck shell is the same depth for the 42 rear disch decks...they don't vary from one model to another. Wheelhorse stamped out these deck shells by the THOUSANDS...then added some weld-on hardware for different applications of the same deck shell. You''' find that the spindles are the same too, although the style may change a bit. Given that, it is VERY EASY to convert the 05-42XR deck to a typical 05-42MR. Here are a few pics of just what to do. You MAY not have to trim the front bracket...I did on the several that I've converted for use on a tractor with the conventional horizontal shaft engine. The 2nd set of pics shows the AFTER conversion....(pics from Ebay)

Staying in a Motel costs bucks but I say it's worth it. Your own bed, shower, A/C if it's blistering out & no work setting up and tearing down. Stayed at a real nice one at Chambersburg. JUST BRING YOUR OWN PILLOW! The Army paid me to "camp out". Now I stay in hotels...roughing it is a hotel without a pool

Sometime around 1980, I started using graphite paint (EZ Glide or Slip Plate brands) to coat the underside of decks. My first one I still have and it has never cut one blade of grass without that coating. I bought this 42" rear-discharge deck new and coated it with graphite paint before ever using it. Today it has no pitting and is absolutely as good as new! All decks that I service for myself and neighbors,get the following treatment: 1. scrape all the clumps out with a stiff putty knife or similar tool 2, go over everything under the deck with an air powered needle scaler to remove any additional hardened grass clippings and rust scale 3. go over everything with a wire wheel on an angle grinder to expose clean, bright metal 4. apply two coats of graphite paint (make sure you have good ventilation, this stuff will get you!) A deck treated this way still requires periodic cleaning, but not as often nor as difficult as cleaning one wiithout it. I have attached a photo of a recently treated cub deck.

I thought I would share this for anyone looking to build a hitch for towing their trailers around the house. I searched on the forum for ideas for a hitch and saw some nicely built one but finally came up with a design of my own, fabricated it, mounted it and it works great. It's bolted to the axles as most others but decided to go an extra step and add support braces. I attached them to the original hitch retaining pin to relieve some stress on the axle tubes and for additional support and strength for moving my 7X14 around the house.

...dry, right up until that ol' tub sinks. Papa's right, them old Chevy's rule Ken.

Staying in a Motel costs bucks but I say it's worth it. Your own bed, shower, A/C if it's blistering out & no work setting up and tearing down. Stayed at a real nice one at Chambersburg. JUST BRING YOUR OWN PILLOW! The Army paid me to "camp out". Now I stay in hotels...roughing it is a hotel without a pool That is why I enlisted in the Navy, dry bunk to sleep in and three hot meals a day. I too will go the motel route.

Alright, I just got to say it: Ken, your truck looks pretty nice for a Chevy.

Crap! More hopes dashed! And I already have a quart of EZ-Slide... Also, it's probably important to note that not everyone's lawn is the same. Lot's of sand here and since they sand the roads in the winter there is always some sand that I have to deal with no matter how good or bad my turf is. Wouldn't expect anything but a rubberized undercoat to stand up to the sand blasting! Thanks for sharing!

Too funny Mike Rick, you can't figure what your load will be by the size of the house. Our house in Indiana was 3200 sq ft and a 5kw did everything. Our Florida home is 1700 sq ft and, by the calculations, requires a larger unit. The difference is that the heat, water heater, range, dryer etc. were gas in Indiana. We're total electric here. You need to determine what you want to power during an outage. You also have to plan on how you're going to transfer the power to your homes system if that's what you want to do. It MUST be done properly. Do not listen to the morons that say to just back feed a range or dryer receptacle and turn off the main breaker. I installed a separate panel and a manual transfer switch. The link below is another good method. I have been asked countless times for help rigging up a generator system. About the same number of times I've told them that I'll help if they intend to do it right. If not, I won't even answer questions. http://www.lowes.com/pd_182534-48019-30216+BRK___?productId=3131281&pl=1&Ntt=transfer+switch

I think I may be staying in hotel at next years show.

+6% sales tax

I'm with John and Mike on the cart. That is a pretty sweet little cart and without a doubt you got the best deal of the day!

See. I knew that cart was worth $25 !

I will selfishly advocate that you Become a supporter so I can see pics!!!!!!! As a fellow Super C owner:-)

I have both, Brown Sharpe, Starrett, etc and I also have Chinese. I bought the Chinese thinking to use one on just run of the mill projects and keep the good stuff for the good projects. I quickly discovered the the import products were very nice and in comparison measurements of the two types - they measure the same. I think for the occasional use a mic would see in the typical home shop the Chinese tools are quite acceptable. Most of the tool suppliers have a 3 mic set for under $50 and would cover most anything you would typically use one for.

Ugly Yellow Cart - Priceless! And what Mike said.

The puller was ready to go with a stock 10HP.....$775 The C-101 sounded good, had straight tin, and had a nice deck, but was spray bombed without any masking...$475 The ugly yellow cart ...$25

Nothing like asking someone who's full of hot air to talk! Anyway there's these 3 bears at the Iowa Illinois game see. Steve, John and Duke. They emptied out the concession stand and well .... oh never mind. More pics as promised. After the first wash.

Nice truck! You can't beat the sound of an old inline 6. I have a 292 with a 194 head, rv cam, offenhauser 4 barrel intake with holley carb, split exhaust manifold and a 700r4 paired up with 3.90 rear end gears in my 3/4 ton 52 pickup. Scoots right along. I also swapped disc front brakes into mine for more stopping power. I've had nothing but problems with that vendor...from missed deadlines to wrong parts sent out. Was an overall bad experience.

So I guess with only one old Lawn Boy setting in my shed, I do NOT have a problem?

What were you doing in Frankville?? (and that's actually in Iowa, not Minnesota!) We drive through there all the time on our way to/from Illinois... and only recently my wife snagged this picture to show some family what we were talking about.

I used EZ Glide from TSC on two of my decks this year. I haven't pulled them to check though. I know others have used it with good results.

After hours of internet searching and researching, I got the wheel horse bug! I started looking for our old family tractor and thought I'd find another one. It was an old 66' Cub Cadet. I found a few on the internet, but after researching about the tractor I found out that it may not be the best purchase for me. What came up mostly was the love of the wheel horse and I became hook and starting looking for those type tractors. I found many across the state but it is almost impossible to view all of them due to vast distances. My top three were a 64' 1054, a 67 1057 and a C 100. After thinking it over I decided on the C 100. It was well taken care of and should provide a lot more life I'm in the processes of cleaning it up and doing some modified painting of certain parts. Basically tune up stuff. Mower deck needs some holes patched, but it does seem pretty clean. The plow is in great shape. Best of all, it came with about 7 various manuals and brochures for viewing .

I finally got started on my media blast cabinet. I'm building it out of 1/8 plate. These panels are like our wheel horses very old and built to last. The panels I've used so far are from a 2500 amp switboard. When finished it will have all welded seams. It's 44.5 wide 33.5 deep and 30 high. I'm thinking 15 x 30 for the window. Holes are marked just not cut. It will also be on casters.

I've had too many other things to do recently which has meant only occasional progress with this project but here's the update. Painted the shell and was pleased with the way it looks in terms of having rescued all of the detail like the strengthening ribs. Installed the spindles and blades only to discover that one of the blades fouled on the fiberglass where it was too thick in one place so it had to be ground back a little. The geometry of this particular deck is unusual in that the clearance between blade and original metal shell was always tight at this point. Also ground flat areas round the holes drilled through to mount the center pulley and tensioner so that the bolt heads would sit flush with the shell. It took a while to mount all the bits and pieces - surprising how many bits there are on this little deck as it hangs from four mounting points on the tractor, and has two adjustable anti-scalp wheels. Since that photo was taken I've painted the underside of the deck. Why you ask? Well being fiberglass now it really doesn't need painting but aesthetically to my mind it should be red underneath even if you don't see it and its going to get filthy. Hmm, I expect it will stand up to standard use pretty well otherwise I wouldn't have put all this time and effort into it. The previous fiberglass job hadn't been done that well by the PO but it appeared to have served for many years like that before I got it. Obviously if its going to be used on rough ground with stones being whacked against it the fiberglass will get worn away round the sides over time but I'll be cutting a lawn so it shouldn't be a significant issue. Wish I was but I've had other more pressing things to do. Very close now though but it will have to wait for a couple of weeks till I get back from vacation.I'm determined to mow with the A-800 and this deck before the end of the season! Andy

Took a break from the resto project to install the refreshed tires and rims on my other GT14. The fresh paint is causing image to be blurred a bit around the rims. Otherwise I am getting close to hitting my goal of blasting the frame. I think The weather is going to snarl me up and delay me until the following weekend though. Depends on how much and how hard it rains over next few days.

yea I do metal artwork and couldn't pass it up it was only 40' long but I had to break it up in 10' sections to move it plans for mower are to throw a motor on it and cruise around matches the patina of my 32 3 window

So I walk into the local Toro shop and tell the owner my intentions for this and he just happened to have a 12hp vertical I/C Briggs he pulled a few month's back off a scrap mower. Told me it ran so good he didn't have the heart to junk it and he figured someone would be looking for one eventually. Well that was meant to be. So now I am in at $90 on the mower ($60 tractor $30 on the motor). Now I have a couple questions. Can I drill the New mounting holes in the cast iron or do a plate adapter? Also is there anyone with wiring knowledge on this particular repower? Here is a pic of the tear down with b/s just mocked up on it. Also the hole in the Koehler v8. Thanks for the warm welcome guys. I am a wheel horse nut now!

Based on your description I'd give it a second look. You got any pictures to post? This your first WH?

The top is welded. The bottom is tacked and the legs are started. I have cut all the plate with a skill saw and abrasive blade. The angle was cut with a port-a-band saw. I have a plasma cutter ordered so I hope I'll be cutting the holes with that. That may get interesting because I have never used one before. I have plenty of welding to do while im awaiting its arrival. I figured it was a good time to get the casters bolted on.

Nice score Mike! That tractor looks real clean and its not even broke in with just 300 hrs. on it! Tough call on whether to sell it or Ezra. You, know what the peanut gallery will say, Just keep them both!. I'm in the same boat as you though so I understand space limitations...

Ya think a couple cans of Regal Red will get it in the Big Show next year? That, and some stickers might just do it.

Thanks Ed for letting me know what they went for. I was going to go, and now I'm glad I didn't.. The C-101 looked interesting, but looked like it had some rough edges (rust) under the spray paint. It was obviously freshly sprayed for the auction. I figured the puller would go high. I have so many projects now, I will only buy another if it goes real cheap. Jim

Hard to see but it looks like you are using the AC voltage selection. You need DC (20v) to check the fuses

How does he fit them all in there?

Here you go. The dealer (Weingartz) verified over the phone that the tractor was purchased from them with that configuration. They could not verify if they changed the engine for the customer, or if the tractor came that was from the factory. Their records listed the tractor as a B-100 Automatic, 12HP.

Well thought I should probably give an update on this one, its been a while! Motor and trans are pretty much completely assembled. I sent another batch of parts into get zinc plated so when i get them back they will be completely done. Also finished up the belt guard and heat shield, and picked up a NOS steering gear from bill jenkins at the show. I'm planning to make a new tie rod and then will have the steering issues worked out. Got the frame blasted and any rust pits filled, also cut off the foot bar and am going to weld a new one on. As far as the hood I didn't want to damage it blasting it because it was in pretty nice shape so I built an electrolysis tank, this is my second attempt at one of these, first one didn't work at all and this one kind of worked. It eventually did take off what needed to be removed but I spent an hr with a putty knife scraping the paint off and it was in the tank for almost 10 days. Hoping I can figure out why my tank isn't working right so if you have any advice I'd be glad to hear it. I used a 55 gallon drum, 6 anodes all wired together with 8 gauge wire, used a 12 amp charger and used the 1/2 cup to 5 gallons of washing soda as I have read. I will beadblast the hood carefully in my cabinet now that the paint is gone and it should clean up nicely. So as far as whats left on this tractor I just need to get a back set of tires and find a good steering wheel for it, finish up the frame and hood stand, and the hood. Hoping to get it done for scotts meet and greet but not going to rush it. wheel painted engine mostly together guard, shield and my new steering gear frame ready for the foot bar to be welded on hood after being in the e tank my e tank setup bought a new set of 3 ribs for it a couple of weeks ago and trans all finished up

Bruno looks proud of himself with the squirrel but then, The Cone of SHAME. My brother's golden retriever came flying out of his house full blast, flew across the street and hammered a little bunny right in front of the neighbor's elderly mother who was walking up to the house. Just so happens it was Easter morning too. The poor woman was so traumatized to see the Easter Bunny get shredded, we had to help her into the house.

Nice ride, best of luck. glenn

So... Purchasing the first truck didn't work out. CT. doesn't require a title on vehicles 25 yrs or older but you do you need a past registration to prove continuity of ownership.. Come to find out the owner never registered the truck in the ten yrs he has owned it. He just used a repair plate when he used it and so did the guy before him so that leaves me with zip for paperwork. No thanks, I don't feel like dealing with the nightmares at the DMV.. Now, I just need to try and get my 500 dollar deposit back. Meanwhile, a truck popped up on Craigslist yesterday afternoon and it was really the type of truck I wanted to begin with. Something heavy duty that can haul a bed full of firewood when needed. So what was I to do? Well, I had to go check it out which meant playin hooky today. Oddly it was only 3 miles away from the blue truck. Long story short, I bought this 1970 C30 Long Horn. Its a one owner truck with only 86,000 original miles on it. The owner had his own roofing company and this truck was NEVER left outside over night and it was NEVER driven in the snow. He was the only person to drive it as well. It has ZERO rust on it and I mean ZERO which is amazing for a CT. truck. It has a 350 with a 4 speed with granny gear. It runs and rides real nice. I have all of the original paper work and owners manual. The purchase price new was almost 3800 bucks. The guy really liked this truck and took great care of it, After very little hand polishing today I can tell that the paint will shine real nice on this old girl. What does it need? Well, the whole going over but I do know it has a bad wheel cylinder in the rear, the muffler has a hole in it and it will need a new set of tires soon. When I got off the exit for my house I happened to notice a green Dodge behind me. It followed me right to my driveway. I'm thinkin WTF did I cut this guy off or something? He gets out of his truck and walks up to me and asks... you wanna sell that Long Horn? Nope! I'm sure everyone will like the last pic best!

We should have a separate section or just a post with links. If you dig up all the ancient posts you will bury people's current problems... One or two are fine and fun, but dont do a bunch. Just my opinion.

I'm going to make it Scott. For the last 5 years, the 1st Saturday in October is when I break out the Carhartts...I always love that first taste of fall.

Used to be the big high school football rival. Arcola vs Tuscola. Tuscola is about 7 miles from me. But that has ended since they went up to a bigger confrence. We still have that chance to play them in the playoffs but thats about it now. And I'm a huge Cardinals fan. You can keep the cubs lol

Here is my tip, passed on from someone here when I got mine. Drive over it. There is no way mine fits to drag it under, not to mention it is far too heavy to drag.

Spent this afternoon cutting back a bit of orange peel, and then couldn't resist putting the hood back on.

Akestner, There is a couple of things going on here. First, for the idler that you have (the two arms are at 12 and 9 o'clock when looking at it mounted), the spring pulls back toward the footrest. Put a long bolt and nut where the lower mounting hole is for the belt guide and hook the spring to that. My spring is 2.5-3 inches long with no extenstions on the ends (just simple hooks). Second, some of these idlers (the ones with arms at 9 and 3 o'clock) have two mounting holed for the idler pulley, one for single cylinder and one for two cylinder engines. The best thing to do is down load a couple of tiller manuals from the manual section. The idler you have is for an older tiller. Pull up the parts lists first and look at the pictures, that will give you the info you need (and also the P/N for the correct spring)

A little late to the party, but a few comments regarding the oldest vertical shaft WH's: While most of us aren't particularly fond of them, the early V7 and V8 tractors were, indeed, garden tractors. The cast iron and steel geared transaxle in them was designed for ground engaging work and was intended to be as tough as the unidrives featured in the more conventional lines of tractors. Tillers were available and a clevis hitch could be fitted in case you wanted to plow, disc, or cultivate. These were introduced in '68 at about the same time some other manufacturers dipped a toe in the vertical shaft configuration. The concept must have been on the right track since most modern tractor platforms have migrated to a vertical shaft arrangement with its inherent packaging efficiencies even on heavy duty machines from Deere, Cadet, Simplicity, Toro, etc. True, they were a little lower slung than the bigger garden tractors and felt more compact, but they were quite heavy duty nonetheless. Geez, look at the front trame section of the V8's! I think the engine failures of the Kohler KV181 (in the V8's) and the complete lack of marketing were a problem for them. By the time WH had ditched the problematic KV's and went exclusively with the more reliable Tecumseh replacements the line had already gained a reputation as being somewhat trouble prone. I think the hydro units on the Charger versions also ended up being weaker than intended...perhaps since they didn't have a large capacity and (I think) lacked a filter for the system. Beyond the tiller, clevis hitch, and a couple of mowing decks WH didn't make a big effort to support the lineup with additional attachments. On a comparative basis the established, already-old conventional layout tractor offered advantages at the point of sale. They were competing with other WH tractors in the showroom in addition to those of other colors and it apparently didn't make much sense at the time. Essentially, they were way to heavy and expensive to be a lightweight lawn mower but not big and heavy enough to be a multipurpose unit. I am under the impression that some pink slips were issued over the line as well. I think a fair number of dealers hated them. They hung on until the early 70's with the "CG" variants, but faded from memory. Collectors have never zeroed in on these things probably for a number of reasons. Most of those reasons probably parallel the reasons they weren't big sellers when new. Few of us have childhood connections to these things. Many of them were probably scrapped when the engines blew. They have a much lower perceived value than the conventionally crafted machines. . Ans, being equipped with Tecumseh engines certainly doesn't buy them much favor in this Kohler-loving crowd. I think there is a place for these models in a serious collector's fleet. They should be appreciated for what they are and were - a different solution to a common problem. If your tractor has value to you, I encourage you to restore it. There won't be a lot of secondary interest in the thing should you decide to sell, but please fix it up and enjoy it for what it is. With few exceptions this is a hobby that won't pay you back for the time and effort you put into ANY machine anyway. The whole succession of vertical shaft tractors really doesn't garner much respect in our collector circles. But - with some exceptions - WH always offered a product fully capable within its intended class. In most cases, i'd rate their vertical shaft tractors at least as high as any class competative tractor. It started with the V7/V8's and progressed right thru to the 400XT series. There are even some rare machines in the long line of verts. YT-12A anyone? How about the L-chassis 211-3? I think I'm going to launch a PR campaign to clean up the image of the tipped-over-engine class of tractor. Maybe they should be featured at the show. And it has nothing to do with the fact that I have a bunch of them I'd love to sell at top dollar someday! Steve