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November 28 2011 - August 28 2025
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August 28 2024 - August 28 2025
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August 28 2025
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08/18/2015 - 08/18/2015
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/18/2015 in all areas
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11 pointsGetting ready for a car show for United Way where I DID WORK. It has been a while for me. Hoping to post my last peace of the puzzle soon. Take Care. Gary B.
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8 pointsI'm late to this party but thought everyone would get a laugh out of this garage in Grayling Michigan. All four sides are covered with license plates. [emoji4] Dave Burley Sent from my tractor seat.
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7 points
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6 pointsJust picked up a 57 Ride away. A few odds and ends and it will be perfect. With that said does anyone have a set of the correct front wheels available?
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5 pointsWell you know this thread needed an update when it was three pages deep! Sorry for the delay, I've been chipping away at it. I got the motor back from the machine shop and luckily everything turned out fine. I have my 6 thousands just like Kohler specs. I worked with the local lawn and garden shop owner and put together the engine. He taught me a few things about the Kohlers I didn't know. We fired it up and ran it on Sat and it runs like a top. I need to get it painted this week. I ordered high temp engine paint from Eastwood but it's a smidge too bright of a red for me compared to the PPG I sprayed. I've been reading a lot about engine painting and most seem to just spray an etch primer or epoxy primer and a top coat or urethane or enamel. I think I'm going to spray the same epoxy/urethane I did the rest of the tractor with. Any thoughts or suggestions? Here's some pics of the progress. I also got the hood/fender wet sanded and polished. I super happy with how well they turned out. Looking forward to getting the engine painted so I can make some real progress on reassembly. Back home... New valves.... Head after coming back from the machine shop.... Head after I got done lapping it on my granite slab.... Engine steam cleaned and ready for reassembly new governor gear in... Compression release on the cam "realigned" Getting close.... Break in time!! Paint all buffed out!! Bob's dash is in! Looks awesome! Brand new 42" RD deck I bought off another member ready to go on...
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5 points
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4 points
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4 pointsThe biggest made at that time would be a Suburban 550. The tiller would be a pull behind with its own Techie engine, the plow was also available, but you would have to fabricate the backhoe; I would love to see it, that would be sooooooooo cute! Actually the WT-30 for the Suburban was before those pull behind models. It mounted right to the rear of the tractor, used a K-90 and came with a speed reduction kit. more pictures here..... Gallery link The WT-241/WT-242/WT-244 lift bar wouldn't fit in the smaller welded steel slot hitch of the Suburban 400 / 550 / 401. The slot hitch dimensions got a little bigger with the introduction of the two piece unidrive and cast slot hitch in1961 with the 551 and 701.
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4 pointsWhat a surprise! I received an honor due to this restore. The Tractor Data website decided to use my images of this restore as the example tractor. Pretty cool, indeed. http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/4/7/478-wheel-horse-10hp-photos.html
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3 pointspicked up a 604 on Friday in good shape wrong color but it's been that way for 10yrs. I didn't like the green so changed it to black always wanted to do that to one and figured this one whould look good black. Just have to get #'s on it and a new drive belt , speaking of what # is the belt/size?
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3 points
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3 pointsThe gas tank you're looking for looks like this; The engine should look like this when you complete yours:
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3 pointsSo I guess with only one old Lawn Boy setting in my shed, I do NOT have a problem?
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3 pointsWell all the bodywork paid off. The paint turned out fantastic on the fender and hood. It took a long time to get all the dings and dents out of the hood but it paid off! I'm pumped!
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2 pointsHi everyone! Steve here. I am a newbee Wheel Horse owner. I buought what I believe to be a 1960 Wheel Horse 400 or 550 at an auction 2 weeks ago, It does not have an original engine (has a briggs 5hp). My plan is to restore it so it can be used by my 3 (soon to be 4) grandkids to cruize around our small farm. I found this site after looking around on the web and in a short time have realized there are good people here and great information. So...... Here I go on a the restoration. Getting the steering wheel off proved to be a fun first challange :*****: ! Here are some picsof our project!.
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2 pointsThis guy is either braver or stupider than me. Hope this link works video
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2 pointsSo... Purchasing the first truck didn't work out. CT. doesn't require a title on vehicles 25 yrs or older but you do you need a past registration to prove continuity of ownership.. Come to find out the owner never registered the truck in the ten yrs he has owned it. He just used a repair plate when he used it and so did the guy before him so that leaves me with zip for paperwork. No thanks, I don't feel like dealing with the nightmares at the DMV.. Now, I just need to try and get my 500 dollar deposit back. Meanwhile, a truck popped up on Craigslist yesterday afternoon and it was really the type of truck I wanted to begin with. Something heavy duty that can haul a bed full of firewood when needed. So what was I to do? Well, I had to go check it out which meant playin hooky today. Oddly it was only 3 miles away from the blue truck. Long story short, I bought this 1970 C30 Long Horn. Its a one owner truck with only 86,000 original miles on it. The owner had his own roofing company and this truck was NEVER left outside over night and it was NEVER driven in the snow. He was the only person to drive it as well. It has ZERO rust on it and I mean ZERO which is amazing for a CT. truck. It has a 350 with a 4 speed with granny gear. It runs and rides real nice. I have all of the original paper work and owners manual. The purchase price new was almost 3800 bucks. The guy really liked this truck and took great care of it, After very little hand polishing today I can tell that the paint will shine real nice on this old girl. What does it need? Well, the whole going over but I do know it has a bad wheel cylinder in the rear, the muffler has a hole in it and it will need a new set of tires soon. When I got off the exit for my house I happened to notice a green Dodge behind me. It followed me right to my driveway. I'm thinkin WTF did I cut this guy off or something? He gets out of his truck and walks up to me and asks... you wanna sell that Long Horn? Nope! I'm sure everyone will like the last pic best!
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2 points
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2 pointsBrian, The front wheels on the 60" deck are not original. I have one with them and one without. There is a dealer service bulletin instructing dealers to weld them on from about 1989. I've seen lots of different versions of front wheels, and yours are the TALLEST ones I have ever seen. Mine are more like the fixed height oval rollers on the 48" decks. I'm sure your clearance problems are related to those very tall front wheels. Maybe it would slide under if those wheels were dropped all the way down to the ground? I know that some guys drive over, but I have had trouble with the deck spitting forward when I try to drive on, and I worry about doing something stupid in the process like damaging a front tire or snapping off a zerk fitting. It seemed like a great idea when I first heard it, but it just didn't save me any time or effort when I tried it.
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2 points@WHX4 There are several products out there like this, but I would suggest using glazing putty rather than the high build primer. The putty takes about a 1/2 hour to dry, and then you can immediately sand it smooth. Higher quality repairs, and much faster process than what you're planning. Also, I would suggest doing the sand blasting, ultra sonic, then lightly sand blast again. The "brownish" you're seeing is rust forming on the surface. It'll eventually work its way back out in about three years after the restore. I would do the last sandblast, spray them off with air, wipe down with Preps-All, and get them lightly into primer in about 15 minutes time. Then use the glazing putty to fill any small imperfections. That way the rust is gone for good, and the surface is smooth and ready for paint. Just a suggestion. ttps://advanceautopaint.com/shop/usc-red-glazing-putty/ My RJ rims started out like this: And ended up looking like this. That is the same rim and tire as above.
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2 pointsCool Mike. I wasn't sure if you had a usable 3523 gear and I was willing to send him one of mine if it passed the Steve and Mike inspection. I do have an extra input shaft with very good teeth but the shaft itself is scored pretty bad so it wouldn't seal. You've got Ed taken care of so all is good
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2 points
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2 pointsThis is a '61 belt guard pictured here... difference was the 1960 version only had the vertical line rolled into it...didn't include horizontal...was the same overall shape though.
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2 pointsFor a few days Red?? Who can wait that long with this kind of addiction?!?!? ....You know darn well I am probably going to have finger prints all over them in short order! Can I just put them in the wife's oven to help the process along? I bet that would fly with her real well.... Seriously I should let them dry and get into that tranny...
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2 points
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2 pointsWork is coming along but not as quickly as i hoped, blasted hot weather has got me jumpin....Did get to work on the front rims a little last night. Found this primer at a big box so going to try it rather than the self etching. Got a coat on and it did ok on some of the smaller pits. 'nother coat tonite with some pics. Funny how the cloride only attacked the outside while the insides are clean!?!?!? By the way I dumped the cloride from them on some pesky weeds...makes a good weed killer!
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2 pointsMy 701 came with the dozer blade that seems to be fairly difficult to find. Since my kids and I were having so much fun driving the 701 around I decided to get my feet wet with restoring the blade first. It was in pretty rough shape as you can see. All of the metal had severe pitting. My first idea was to strip it and use primer filler and rattle can paint. I spent about 4 hours wire wheeling the frame rails. Through trial and error this seems to be the most effective method to remove the paint and rust. I had the frame rails stripped and I realized that unless I had it sand blasted that I was never going to be able to get into all of the nooks to remove the rust. I made the decision to take it to a shop to have it sand blasted and powder coated. I decided on powder coating for its tough finish. The only downside is that the pitting is visible through the finish. While I've spent much more on it than I wanted to, I love how it has turned out. I ordered all new 316 grade stainless hardware from fastenal. I got the parts back today and put it back together this afternoon. The last piece I need to get is the wear plate for blade and it will be finished.
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2 pointsDarn! I knew it was your birthday, knew that you knew that no one had made your birthday wish backhoe for it, but for a moment I thought maybe you would make your own dream come true and build one! Then it became my wish to see one! Wouldn't that be NEAT?!? Maybe a good retirement project.lol I'll be following your progress!
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2 pointsDarn! I knew it was your birthday, knew that you knew that no one had made your birthday wish backhoe for it, but for a moment I thought maybe you would make your own dream come true and build one! Then it became my wish to see one! Wouldn't that be NEAT?!? Maybe a good retirement project.lol
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2 pointsWhat about Southern Cleveland State????? I vote for 15. Any more and we'll need one of those old adding machines with the lever to keep track
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2 pointsYes Rick had quite the collection. I only got to see the tractors that were auctioned. They were impressive.
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2 pointsHere are pictures of mine. I thought I had a picture of the tires hitting, but I guess not. This is the lift bar and attachomatic hitting, with the deck on the ground with wheels lowered. The lift only has to lift it slightly to get it to lock in. I have since lowered the front rollers, and it isn't as bad, but it isn't easy.
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2 pointsto be continued...ppplayoffs...don't talk about pplayoffs. I want Notre Dame in this. I think it will separate the men from the boys. But just the Big Ten and Notre Dame...after that...it becomes too much to post and keep up with. Having Notre Dame in there, will keep us watching the rest of the teams when it gets down into conference play. I like that. I am going to LaSueur next week...so unless all hell breaks loose about this...Notre Dame is going to be one of the teams we pick this year. Make up our minds by this Saturday...I would like to post the 1st games like this Sunday or Monday...if you don't like it...file a complaint with Brrly1...he will have a process that you have to go through to get your complaint heard...(what did he say Ethel!!!!)...he said Brrly1 would give you a fair hearing and rule on his dissension in good time...sometime before Iowa looses it's 5th game this year....could be October. OMG...it's going to be a fun season. BIG TEN + ND = ????
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2 pointsI have about all the horses and attachments I need or have room for including the loader. The one thing I would really love to have is a backhoe like Wallfish built. Unfortunately I don`t have the welding skills or the patients. John, if you see this you should post up a good picture to have these Newbies and a lot of Oldies drooling all over their `puters!
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2 pointsSteve, As far as how many we have saved who knows.. I have shipped parts all over and Complete transmissions to Massachutes..Texas...North Carolina..New York as well as indiana ohio and Pa... I even had one older fella drive out from New Jersey to my place in North west ohio on a Saturday Morning we re-built his 953 trans he loaded it back up and turn around and drove back to Jersey...The things we do for these little machines is a blast and the people make it fun!!...As far as the 3523 gear that is the biggest problem I have found...for about every 4 I tear down 1 of them gears can be re-used...As they are no longer available new this gear I think is what is going to be the thorn in these transmissions...
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2 pointsFrank, you have certainly posted your inquiry in the right place, in order to get the info you desire; however, it is evident that posting a bit more info will return a more accurate answer. Specifically, How does the engine run, Smoke? Knock? What about the Hydro? While butted up against a fixed object {such as a tree, and without chains} will it spin the rear tires? Are the 3 Point Hitch and Dozer / Snow Plow included? Do you have a deck that is going to be included? How tight is the steering? Ect... Mark.
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2 points
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1 pointI was able to fix the plastic damage on the steering wheel. Now you can't tell anything at all happened. It is still stuck. My neighbor, who is a professional mechanic, came over and we both worked on it with all his tricks and tools. Still no budge. The dust cap inside the top of the shaft assembly got cracked though. I'm going to end up just saving up for a new assembly and cutting the wheel off the old one. All this for a $12 steering boot that was ripped. I'm just trying to get this 522xi back to like new condition. It appears that the ring inside the steering wheel that press-fits to the top of the steering shaft is made out of aluminum. That is the issue. Over time, it has literally fused itself to the steel shaft. I really don't think anything will separate them at this point. If the shaft is cut, then I should be able to pound or drill the stub out from the bottom side of the steering wheel and reuse the wheel. It looks like it will be a while before this problem is resolved. So, heads up 5xi owners! Beware of the steering wheel removal, and try to ignore the ripped boot. BTW, the new boot has been redesigned with a small hole the diameter of the shaft instead of a steering wheel sized hole that catches with friction and eventually tears out. I will post an update if and when I ever get this done.
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1 pointGot a new toy! its a WW2 military compressor with a Briggs model N engine. we allready had it running after some fresh gas/petrol. not more than a few seconds but it ran. and here's some pictures
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1 point
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1 pointCheck the oil level. My 10hp will act that way if the oil gets low. Also play with the carb settings, mine will back fire if the high idle is set off of where it likes it.
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1 pointMay be time to pull the head and clean out the carbon check the valves, and clean all the cooling fins.
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1 pointNot specific, but these people may have the parts you need. http://www.sickleservice.com/brands/garden-walk-behind-mowers.html
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1 pointWe should have a separate section or just a post with links. If you dig up all the ancient posts you will bury people's current problems... One or two are fine and fun, but dont do a bunch. Just my opinion.
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1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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1 point417A with 42 deck blower bagger, 52" hydraulic "V" blade, snow cab oh wait, I already have them! After that would be loader, trailer, grader blade York rake, dethatcher, cultivator, 7000 watt generator, and enough 417a's for each attachment!
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1 pointWere you a dealer? Did you buy out a dealer? Did your rich uncle die and leave you all this in his will? I'm turning green with envy.
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1 point